Raypak 206A Rapidly Heating Water

LoT

Member
Aug 11, 2013
13
Stuck on this issue after a lot of troubleshooting and repair attempts.

Behavior: Burner lights fine. Clean blue flames. Readout water temp on panel rapidly rises (beyond 100F at unrealistic rates for normal flow) until heater kicks off due to lack of heat demand. After heater kicks off and pool pump is still pushing water, temperature continues to rise, often all the way to 150F before stabilizing and eventually coming back down.

Checked water flow into pool, very good pressure. No air, all water when bleeding from filter.

Replaced thermistor (twice). Same temp behavior.

Vacuumed, soft-brushed, and low-pressure water-cleaned heat exchange fins. Same temp behavior.

Removed and tested unitherm governor. It lengthened in hot water like you would expect. (Governor O-Ring was a bit worn, added lube and have a replacement coming tomorrow.)

No scaling or other buildup present anywhere in the unit that I can see.

I'm stumped. It doesn't seem like a control board issue, because the temperature readings are normal (~70F) until heating starts. I would be surprised if there is scaling inside the heat exchanger, I have the version with cupronickel, and my pool chemistry is normal.
 
Do you use the tablet chlorinator (in green)?

It looks like the Protek Shield zinc anode (in red) needs replacement.

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Thank you for the response.

I do not use the chlorinator, it is bypassed. I use bleach and borax.

Re: the zinc anode, could that be causing the issue, or was that just a side note? Based on what I understand that would not cause any acute issues, but rather allow for chronic issues if malfunctioning.
 
Re: the zinc anode, could that be causing the issue, or was that just a side note? Based on what I understand that would not cause any acute issues, but rather allow for chronic issues if malfunctioning.

It is in the water inlet so I would check it.

Your symptoms are signs of blocked inlet water flow.
 
By the way, the 45s in red connecting the heater pipe look like DWV fittings with small hubs instead of Schedule 40 fittings with deep hubs, as circled in green.

Is this a recent heater install?

Who did that plumbing?

Read PVC Repair - Further Reading

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Regarding the PVC, I did have issues with the 45's leaking, so it doesn't surprise me that it's not to code. This heater was installed 2-3 years ago, and I'd need to double-check who the contractor was.
Don't ever use that contractor who does not know the difference between DWV and Schedule 40 plumbing.