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Plan to fix PVC threaded joint leak

PoolStored
setsailsoon said:
  • Use the right tool. A belt wrench is perfect. Use one like this that has gripping tread on the inside of the belt:
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A properly fitted union, with a proper, in good condition o-ring should be hand tightened.

If you do use this tool only use the strap wrench for an additional 1/16-turn of the nut.

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J
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Need help on how to use my new spa

Jimrahbe
Jerry,

Thanks for the pics... Things that I see..

Your 2nd pump is for the spa jets.. It is set up to run on a Feature Circuit called "Jets".. But... there is no corresponding Jets speed assigned to Pump #2.. On pump #2's speed set up page, you need to delete "High Speed" and replace it with the "jets" circuit. Also remove "Jets" from pump #1..

I never recommend running a combination of GPM and RPM.. I like all RPM, but never a mix... On pump #1 change Spa to 3400 or 3450 rpm.

You have a circuit called "Spillway" but it is not set up as the "Spillway mode".. The Spillway mode sets the Intake valve to suck water from the pool and sets the Return valve to send all the water to the spa.. This will cause the spa to spillover into the pool.. You control the amount of water flow by setting the pump speed..

You need to change the Spillway Circuit's "Function" to Spillway.. to set up the Spillway mode.

Then you would schedule the Spillway circuit to turn on for half an hour twice a day. This will keep the water in the spa fresh and chlorinated.

I suspect that 3000 rpm for the spillway mode will be way too fast.. Try it and see.

Fix those things and then we can go from there..

Thanks,

Jim R.
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Timmy J
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Timmy J
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Timmy J
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Help!! Spa losing water overnight...trying to find culprit?

CajunGuy
Jim, I replaced the intake (suction) diverter valve internals like we spoke about. Afterwards, I turned both the return spa off and the suction spa off and then shut the system down completely. The spa was filled to the top at around 9pm that night and when I went check it this morning around 6am it really hadn't dropped at all over that 9 hour period! If anything, it was so very minimal...maybe 1/16" - 1/8" at most which I guess that little bit would just be normal evaporation? If I wasn't actually looking, I would have assumed it hadn't even dropped any at all. Do you think that was the problem all along?
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New equipment plumbing with lots of tight 90 bends?

B
sporf said:
Found this post that shows switching from hard 90s to sweep 90s reduces head and increases efficiency - "the difference is quantified and you can tell the difference on your electric bill.". I'd much rather my pump work less hard and use less electricity over the life of the pool and am skeptical of all the 90s given most seem unnecessary.
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If you read the details, the guys article just says that quote but doesn’t provide any details on how/what/why. Just saying reducing head loss saves money is too oversimplified. The replies after the post add some context that’s helpful.

The simple summary is that your system doesn’t need to be designed to push the maximum amount of water through at the fastest possible speed but that’s probably the only situation where you might care about headloss. You want to be pumping the minimum amount of water at the lowest possible pressure to do the job you’re asking because it takes exponentially less energy ($) to pump water slower than faster.

If you do decide to use sweep 90’s, make sure they aren’t DWV which aren’t designed for pressure. I’ve seen a few pictures where people made that mistake
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New equipment plumbing with lots of tight 90 bends?

Jimrahbe
sporf said:
The difference is quantified and you can tell the difference on your electric bill.".
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S,

My IntelliFlo pump runs 24/7/365, mostly at 1200 RPM. It costs me less than $20 bucks a month to do this... And my pump is about 12 years old, and new pumps are much more energy efficient. How much could I possible save my replacing a few sharp 90 degree fittings???

See the following quote from the same thread by someone that "knows everything"... :mrgreen:

JamesW said:
The example shows a total system head loss difference of only 3.2 feet of head at 60 gpm.

That's a very minor difference.

In addition, a residential pool would rarely need to exceed 40 gpm.

At 40 gpm, the head loss difference drops to about 1.4 feet of head, which is insignificant.

Many pools can run at 20 gpm, which reduces the total head loss difference to about 0.35 feet.
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Thanks,

Jim R.
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New pump not pulling water

J
wireform said:
From what you wrote in #1 you did not follow that in the motor. You have white on the common and red on the LOW.
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The photo that I posted is exactly how the wires were connected. Perhaps I have the motor terminals wrong in my post but whatever white and red correspond to in the photo is how the live wires were connected.
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Plan to fix PVC threaded joint leak

setsailsoon
Two things that make union fittings hard to use and causes a lot of failures are dirty threads and using the wrong tool to tighten them. Large channel-lock type pliers can easily damage and over tighten the fitting. I've found easiest way to make these work well over and over again is:

  • Clean the threads inside and out with a wet rag until all the dirt is removed. WD 40 can help as a cleaner if there's oily dirt.
  • Clean the o-ring and make sure it's grove is pristine as well. Even small particles of dirt can cause a leak that won't stop 'till you clean it. No matter how tight you get it. Once you get it clean lube it with a small amount of soluble silicone lube. When you tighten if it's not lubed the o-ring can catch in the grove and become distorted. All surfaces need to slide.
  • Use the right tool. A belt wrench is perfect. Use one like this that has gripping tread on the inside of the belt:
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  • Don't over-tighten. Snug is all you need.
I keep one of these handy to the equipment pad.

I hope this is helpful.

Chris
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setsailsoon
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Water testing kit and reagent replacement for the UK market

H
Hi all,

The TFP website is the best resource for everything water chemistry, it helped me out around 17 years ago when my naive bromine routine started causing rashes, I then learnt how to run a chlorine tub which I kept running for 17 years with no issues all thanks to the guides and info here.

In a few weeks I'm getting a new Hotspring Relay tub with SWG, with a short learning curve I'm hoping to get the SWG to provide background sanitation with less maintenance input than was required before.

I've never used a proper water chemistry test kit as the Aquacheck strips appeared to serve their purpose adequately, however with SWG it's more critical to balance the water and keep it balanced and the strips probably won't cut it.

Now to the questions, the Taylor K-2006 is the gold standard, so what is the second best testing kit that would be available in the UK. The Taylor kit is available here only on Amazon UK for £125 (which I don't mind paying), ebay UK is consistently out of stock and the price on ebay if it comes from the US it extortionate due to delivery charges, there appears to be no other UK retailers that carry this kit. Also the replacement cost of reagents appears extortionate on ebay because of delivery from the US or the kit bottle sizing is not available, this does not bode well for the long term, so...

  1. How much longevity are homeowners getting from their Taylor reagents?
  2. Am I fussing too much and the reagents last longer than a year with careful handling and I should just buy it from Amazon UK and buy a new kit in 5 years when the first item runs out, which would make it economically viable in the UK?
  3. Has anyone in the UK had success ordering replacement Taylor reagents at reasonable cost and is in UK stock?
  4. Is anyone in the UK using another brand testing kit which is roughly equivalent to the K-2006 and has a supply of replacement reagents at reasonable cost and stock?
Thanks for the help TFP.
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New equipment plumbing with lots of tight 90 bends?

Newdude
sporf said:
switching from hard 90s to sweep 90s reduces head and increases efficiency -
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How many hard 90s are in your house plumbing to all the faucets. Yeah. :)

Sweeps have more flow, but it's never appreciable. They're noticable in the miles and miles getting municipal water to your house (when applicable) or for drains which are gravity fed. They built pools for decades with hard 90s and nobody ever knew better. Yours is a simple setup and will have oodles of flow either way.

I also kinda chuckle at human nature being what it is. People worry about the pad because it's right there in their face, but they may have 3X more underground that they can't see.
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