Newdude said:

TFP water probably gives you your best chances either way.

Dump and pray never ends will.

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Thank you! I am sure you’re very right. Taking proper steps to ensure your pool chemistry is right is bound to help with liner fading. I’m sure with time and lots of sunshine all will eventually fade. I guess as the ink fades I would prefer a blue pool vs a white pool. Hopefully I will do an excellent job with pool water quality. I want to do my part in extending the fade time as much as possible.

Griswald said:

I can't run my swg yet since my order for cya won't be delivered for a few days,

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You can run your SWG at any CYA level.

Griswald said:

but the water is cold so not worried.

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Use the SWG to generate the chlorine you need as long as the water is warm enough for the SWG to run.

Griswald said:

Very timely topic ..
Just replaced my white liner with a blue liner, both Latham. The white background version was 13 years old and you can see very little to no patterns remain. I would stick to the blue version. There was no leaks or anything with the old liner, it was starting to pull out of the coping...and it was just plain wore out.

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Good information thank you!

The powder salt dissolved way faster than the rock salt. I just added 8 bags of powdered salt to my pool and it was totally dissolved in a few minutes using the pile and brush method. The rock salt would still be there a day later. I also run my robot to stir everything up.

I can't run my swg yet since my order for cya won't be delivered for a few days, but the water is cold so not worried.

ajw22 said:

Mark the video public on YouTube.

Picture Posting and Resizing - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

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Yes, they are both marked public.

Very timely topic ..
Just replaced my white liner with a blue liner, both Latham. The white background version was 13 years old and you can see very little to no patterns remain. I would stick to the blue version. There was no leaks or anything with the old liner, it was starting to pull out of the coping...and it was just plain wore out.

Welcome to TFP!

It sounds more like a crack in it. I doubt that the screw and clamp actually go into the tank.

Welcome to TFP! I'm not personally familiar with the base units those filter sit on, but it sounds like you may need to drain it and flip it over to inspect if you haven't already. If the base is in fact cracked from the freeze when power went out, that would mean a new filter since you cannot safely repair a vessel like that which operates under such extreme pressure (safety). If you feel it's something like like just a screw fitting, maybe post a pic or two so can see it better?

ajw22 said:

Did you do your tests with the pump on?

Not getting flow where?

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Sorry this was an accidental post

davidl81 said:

Also all three probes read right at 10,300 on the resistance when connected.

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You can't test resistance when the sensors are connected because the voltage will interfere in the test.

Even though we do not know the exact DC voltages for each temp, we know that they should be different for each temp.

If you connect the different sensors are they all reading the same DC voltage and the same temp even though they are at different temperatures?

Get some warm water in a cup and some cold water and put the temp sensor in the water while the sensor wires are connected to see if the temp reading changes.

What happens if you connect the Solar temp sensor to the Pool or Air Temp sensor location?

Sent you PM.

I'd do the recalibrate on the aquarite.

True but @Njmurvin doesn't have automation so no RS-485.

dasbad said:

Also not getting any flow

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Did you do your tests with the pump on?

Not getting flow where?

Aquarite is the SWG.

I just cleaned the cell (minor build up). After reconnecting everything and turning the unit on the Inspect Cell was flashing and it was generating. Then it turned to Check Salt to red, Inspect cell to solid orange. I’m guessing it is because the salt content is too low now

wireform said:

Another failure point is the vsp control which are effected by lightning storms. A surge protector in the same panel as the pump is wired to will be sufficient.

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Surge protector in the panel power line will not protect RS-485 comm lines and chips in the panel or VSP from lighting EMP.

I think that the values for DC volts are for ProLogic (5 volts unconnected).

It looks like Hayward changed to 3.3 volts DC for OmniLogic temperature Sensors unconnected, so the 3.28 looks like it might be correct.

The resistance values are still the same, but the DC volts will be different for each temp.

We would need to find the chart for OmniLogic to see the other numbers.

You can get a few different resistors and connect them in place of the sensor to see if the temp reads correctly.

For example, a 10k ohm resistor should read 77 degrees.

A 7k ohm resistor should read 92 degrees.

17k ohms is 56 degrees (10k and 7 k in series).

4,118 ohms should read 115 degrees.

A 10,000 ohm resistor in parallel with a 7,000 ohm resistor results in an equivalent resistance of approximately 4,118 ohms.

To calculate the equivalent resistance of two resistors in parallel, use the formula: 1/R_total = (1/R1) + (1/R2).

1/x = (1/10000) + (1/7000).

X = 4,118 ohms.

Thanks again for all the input.

Digging through some pool paperwork left behind, the Intellitouch controller was installed with the pool, filter and heater in 2007, along with a Max-E-Glas pump, I'm assuming it was a single speed pump.

In Jan 2020 the Intellipro VSF pump, Spa side remote and the "Intellicom II Intelliflo interface for automation" was installed, all on the same quote. Could it be possible that at the time of installation in 2020 the 2007 Intellitouch could not control a VSP so they had to add that module? If that's true, then why does the Intellitouch seem to have options for pump speed? Could the addition of the Spa side remote required the Intellicom module?

Went outside to get a better idea of the wiring:

From the attached picture below, from the Intellicom module to the i5 board:
Program 1 red and black twisted pair - to FLTR PUMP on i5
Program 2 twisted pair to - AUX 4
Program 3 twisted pair to - SPA

The COMM port on the Intellicom red and green appears to go to the pump through the thick black cable - would the pump only need two wires in the RS485 connection (pump has a separate power conduit attachment). The blue and red from Intellicom COMM port appear to be wire nutted together to the comm port on the 520076 board and wired with both the spa remote and Intellitouch- white being the spa side remote and the "bottom" blue going into the house. The "top" blue cable is attached to the GAS HTR port on the board, and indeed, goes to the heater!

At this point I am going to let this mess rest until something is really wrong with it, and just adjust time/schedules with Intellitouch in the house, and pump speeds at the pump.

But it remains curious to me why they would do it this way, since it appears the Intellitouch should be able to send a variable speed signal to the pump.



Thank you again -everyone- for your time and ideas!

Another failure point is the vsp control which are effected by lightning storms. A surge protector in the same panel as the pump is wired to will be sufficient.