nscroggs said:

Looking at the part number on the impeller it was rated for a ½ to 3/4 motor.

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Part Number?

nscroggs said:

step down to a 3/4HP pump and upgrade the impeller and diffuser to ones that were rated at 3/4.

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Part Numbers?

nscroggs said:

I assume because of thermal overload. I checked the wiring, confirmed that the line output is ~118V and made sure the motor was set to 115 (as opposed to 220V).

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Show the wiring.

Check the voltage under load and no load.

Show the breaker for the pump.

Check the amperage.

It looks like the date code is April 25, 2021 (Sun), which seems odd that the motor was made on Sunday.

It was made in Thailand, so maybe they work on Sunday.

Why is the motor 4 years old?

Is it used?





Thailand. In Thailand the working week is Monday to Friday for a maximum of 44 to 48 hours per week (Saturday can be a half or full day).

In Thailand, people generally do not work on Sundays; the standard workweek is Monday to Friday, with Saturday and Sunday considered rest days, although some businesses might operate on weekends with different staff rotations.

Thailand adheres to a standard workweek of Monday through Friday, with Saturday and Sunday considered rest days. However, there are circumstances where weekend work might be necessary:

Employee Consent: Weekend work requires the employee's consent, unless mandated by specific ministerial regulations for certain occupations.

Overtime Compensation: If weekend work is required and the employee agrees, they are entitled to overtime compensation at a rate of at least three times their hourly wage. This higher pay rate incentivizes employees for working on their designated rest days.

Certain industries or professions might have exemptions outlined in ministerial regulations, allowing for weekend work without requiring employee consent or necessarily triggering the higher overtime pay rate. It's advisable to consult with the Ministry of Labor or relevant industry regulations for specific details.

Leebo said:

Apologies for the inconvenience! Today, March 10, 2025, we are performing a server update, which will result in the app being offline for a short period. We’ll be providing updates on the forum as we make progress and will post an announcement once everything is back up and running.

Thank you for your patience, and we appreciate your support!

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I assume the server impacts both Android and iOS devices? Any ETC?

Thanks for the heads up! I thought the issue was on my end! ;-)

miles267 said:

Hi - can you please link us here to the post where iOS updates are being provided? I tried to login with my TFP subscription as I’m now opening my pool and it acted like it did t recognize my pool or retain my history. It was terrifying. I sure hope this isn’t the case???

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uvavi8r said:

Will do...can't do anything until weekend after next...I did pull the burner can off, and sent a snake camera down the exhaust...it was dry for both.

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The heat exchanger may not be leaking inside the combustion chamber, but the ends of the tubes may be corroded away and not directing water completely into the manifold. They should protrude about .5" - .75" from the mounting flange, sit inside the holes in the back of the manifold, and are sealed with an individual O ring. The only way to see that is to remove the manifold from its mounting flange.

natedawg said:

Ah sorry I meant the filter housing, not filter pump.

Specifically it is the lower half tank shell. It looks to be cracked all of the way through the ports, I can see the cracks on both the inside of the tank and the outside of the tank. And it looks to be slowly pushing its way out of the ports because of those cracks. View attachment 631424

I’ll get some photos of the unions and epoxy in a bit here.

These were the unions I put on: 2

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Not repairable and subject to a larger leak at any time.

Mauser4me said:

I currently have a single speed Pentair 'Whisperflo', which has a manufacture date in June 2016. The seal is leaking between the motor and wet side, and I don't want to be leaking water. I have owned my home/pool for only about 6 months and I am learning that the prior owner did not take care of anything so I have no maintenance (or problem) history of the pool equipment. I am learning that just about every problem I put off turns into a bigger one down the line. The local pool servicing company said it would be a few hundred bucks to have the pump serviced with a new seal pack but I am wondering if it is worth putting any money into this old pump. I don't know what the average life expectancy is for these, but I feel safe assuming this one has not been maintained. Additionally I know that variable speed pumps are the way to go. I have been told that my pool is probably around ~14,000 gallons. How do I go shopping for a new pump? Not sure what size/horsepower/etc to be looking for. I do want to maintain a fully pentair system to keep things simple. I am not in any particular rush so would like to shop around and see if there are sales. I know the local companies will have a large markup on these so want to see about getting it myself and maybe having them install it.

TIA!

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What horsepower pump do you have now? A Whisperflow pump wet-end will last almost indefinitely and you may only need to replace the motor or sometimes the sealplate as well. That eliminates having to do any replumbing as long as the plumbing at the pump is good.
Pentair only made the plastic parts of the pump and bought the motor from Century, so having a new motor will still be in the Pentair system.
If you want to remain with Pentair and purchase a completely new pump, the Intelliflow3 VSP is the way to go.
What controls the pump now, turns it on and off?

Impellers are not rated as 1/2-3/4 unless it is 1/2 full-rate/3/4 uprate. On that pump there is a large difference of impeller and diffuser for a 1/2hp. What is the number of the impeller you installed? The motor in the picture is rated at 1.25 thp and should have no problem with a full-rated 3/4hp Sta-Rite impeller.
You need to check the voltage at the motor when it is powered on.

Have you checked the wiring near the fenwal control unit (should be in a metal box inside of the heater?

Also, if im not mistaken the membrane pad and the connected circuit board are powered by a 120 (or 240) to 24v transformer that sits between the exhaust vent and blower inside of the heater.

I believe the on/off fireman's switch only completes the loop for the 24v side of the wiring to the circuit board.

Fwiw, you might want to inspect the wiring in the circuit breaker too. You should turn power off at the breaker to your entire pool sub-panel before checking that or have a professional look at it. It is possible you could have a wiring issue there as well. Inspect the wires and ground connection, making sure they are not loose in the terminals. Also, look for any sign of damage to the wires.

Gflande1 said:

I appreciate, I think I will go with the Neptune. I didnt realize how much more amps the century draws. I really like having a variable speed, last year I calculated my GPM, then figured out the speed I needed to turn the pool over 3 times. Kept the motor at that and the pool was sparkling all year (adding the SWCG helped a lot!).

Have a great one

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I have had great success with the Neptune motor, BUT the aux relay only actuates at 2200rpm or higher, which is probably faster than you need for efficiency and to actuate the SWG. It might be better to just use the existing time clock for that piece of equipment. I have been using a time clock for mine with my SWG and VSP for many years.
The amp rating on a variable-speed motor is the maximum rated amp draw, but at lower speeds it is much less. For the control you have with the Neptune motor, it is still a better fit.

Thanks for the update. This is a relief. Please also confirm our Pool Math subscription history will also be preserved or migrated during this temporary outage.

The PC Version likewise appears to be having a technical tantrum.

I'll be starting pool soft opening this weekend. I may as well redrain hot tub so I can inspect the heating element.

This only recently started in the last few weeks with nothing different being done to the routine maintenance and/or tub chemistry. I can't think of one time the pH was below 7.2 for any extended period of time. Mostly dropped when alkalinity started to creep above 60 and I added 0.x ounces of MA per PoolMath... but few days later always back at 7.8.

If due to cheap material in the heating element, would a titanium element fit the bill for replacement?

Definitely take apart the swivel. They can often cause a lot of problems. There’s a thread on TFP showing how to do preventative maintenance on the swivel … I’ll look for it later and post it if someone else doesn’t.

Hi - can you please link us here to the post where iOS updates are being provided? I tried to login with my TFP subscription as I’m now opening my pool and it acted like it did t recognize my pool or retain my history. It was terrifying. I sure hope this isn’t the case???

Salt water generators have cause widespread corrosion to escutcheon plates, handrails and ladders in swimming pools. Newer built pools have special accessories now that do not oxidize or corrode from the salt systems. I do not think that the Saltron is causing the reddish spots on your jet closure plates. The spotting could be from iron degradation or alloys in your heating element. That would be where I would investigate.

wireform said:

I only have experience with the Neptune motor which I like very much. Being it's a variable speed motor you can take advantage of the efficiency and run it lower rpm for 24/7 and also not have to worry about the secondary safety for the SWCG. The relay on this pump I think will only work above a certain rpm as I was told by a Neptune tech when i was researching similar. The circuit breaker that will work best without nuisance tripping is the Siemens brand of gfci breakers. I'm not a fan of the cord set used when the pump will be removed for the winter but understand it'll need to be of the water tight verity.

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I appreciate, I think I will go with the Neptune. I didnt realize how much more amps the century draws. I really like having a variable speed, last year I calculated my GPM, then figured out the speed I needed to turn the pool over 3 times. Kept the motor at that and the pool was sparkling all year (adding the SWCG helped a lot!).

Have a great one

Newdude said:

Its so woven together you don't even need the sock.

It'll slowly filter any iron that is out of solution. It may take a while but you'll know it's working when you can wring out iced tea from the polyfill. Then rinse it and put it right back in.

Yeah, and we're right back to square one, so another drain refills with more bad water. You may have to tweak the PH and FC to pull the iron out of solution so you can figure it.

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Yeah I think so. I wonder if there is more Iron leeching out, given how bad it was. My plaster is pretty old... its porous.

I can scrub the spots and they dont come off, so im assuming its iron redepositing onto the plaster. I have yet to test with Ascorbic but my gut feeling tells me its that.

My tentative game plan may be....

Let Chlorine drop to normal levels
Balance PH/Alk
Remove filters
Chlorine to 0, Ascorbic Acid treat the surface (again)
Filters + Polyfill back in skimmer + add drain pump into 5g Polyfil bucket (faster filtering)
*slowly* add chlorine

Thoughts on this?

Or am I wasting my time, and should just get it replastered lol.

Did the closing company put antifreeze in any of your lines?? If so, you may want to modify the startup to avoid mixing it in the pool. Not harmful in any way, so perhaps it is just me who doesn't like having things added that don't serve a current purpose....

7,8, 9 , 10 clarification, otherwise:

When I had a sand filter, I would:

1. Set filter to "recirculate"
2. Then prime pump, and start it up.
3. Make sure everything is flowing, with no leaks. If you start with some valves closed as suggested above, as you open additional suction lines for the first time, there may be additional air sucked into the pump. This will usually flush itself out pretty quickly. Only if something is way off will you loose prime on the pump.
4. Then shut the pump off, change filter to "filter".
5. Restart pump.
6. As it runs, open the air bleed on the filter pressure gauge to let out air. Close once water starts coming out in a consistent amount.

SWCG initial setting - start moderately low. As noted, it may not even run due to low temps. But if it does, this time of year you won't need to generate a lot.
But, wait until you run your first tests. You might be low on salt, so the cell may not work due to that, either. It won't generate super fast, so over a period of time your testing will cause you to adjust up or down. Me? I use liquid to get the Cl to the optimal level quickly, then play with the SWCG settings later.

As far as testing - take the initial water samples. Let warm up to 70 or so. I use a dedicated water bottle, and put it in a sink of warmer water for a bit. Then your tests will be more accurate. Take it outside for running the actual tests, as the lighting conditions are far better.

If you get a smooth Normal Distribution with a low standard deviation and the tests are just as likely to be over as under, then you can assume that the mean is close to the actual number.

This also helps eliminate outliers where some error has created a reading that is way off.

The stated Accuracy, Precision, Resolution etc. for any given meter, drop test, test strip etc. are based on the assumption of the test being done exactly right with the correct procedure, meter calibrated properly, reagents in good condition etc.

There are many sources of error that can affect the test beyond the capability of the test.

The only time you can get exact numbers is when you can count something.

If you have a small pile of change, you can count the different coins and give an exact amount for each coin like 5 quarters, 3 dimes etc.

Even then, you can have uncertainty because people can make mistakes in counting.

When you measure something like length, weight, salinity, temperature etc. you cannot get to an exact number because there will always be some uncertainty in the measurement.

The main questions are how much certainty is required to make a decision and how do you get to that certainty?

For example, if you are a Pool Company that is going to install a SWG for a customer and you send a service tech out to measure the salinity so you know how much salt to bring and add and they come back and say that the salinity is 2,145 ppm.

If you rely on this number and add salt, and the number was really 3,500 ppm, then you will be over the limit and now you have to do a partial drain and refill.

So, you need a way to specify the level of certainty for any reading and you need to know how certain you want to be before taking action.

A digital Meter might show an exact number to 1 ppm, but you need to understand that this is not as accurate as it seems.

Using PPT should be as useful as a reading in PPM based on the accuracy and resolution of the test.

If we assume a +/- 100 ppm accuracy, then that is 0.1 ppt.

So, if a salinity meter shows 3.2 ppt, then you know that the level is 3,100 ppm to 3,300 ppm to maybe 97% certainty.

Giving a reading of 3,238 ppm is not useful and it can even inspire a level of confidence that is not warranted.

If you really need confidence in the reading, you should use multiple independent readings like a K-1766 and a calibrated salt meter.

If the readings are close, then you can have more confidence.

If the readings are far apart, then you know that one or both have to be significantly off.

I do not like relying on any single test for salinity especially for critical things like adding a lot of salt.

If you had 10,000 readings, the curve might look something like the below graph.

This is a normal distribution with a mean of 3,028 and a range between 2,800 and 3,200.

The standard deviation for this curve is approximately 60.5.

Most of the readings should fall within 1 standard deviation of the mean.

So, about 68.26% of readings will be in the range of 2,968 ppm and 3,089 ppm.

Your reading might be anywhere from 2,800 ppm to 3,200 ppm.

If you have 1 reading, it seems like it is the exact number.

As you get more readings, you realize that each number can only tell you the approximate value based on the accuracy, resolution, precision and repeatability of the test.

The more tests that you get, the more likely you are to know the actual level.

Even if you got 1,000,000 readings, the best you can do is try to estimate the actual salinity by finding the mean.

You also have to consider what you need to do and how much the accuracy, resolution and precision actually matter.

For a SWG, the SWG reading is most important and the test is only to assess the accuracy of the SWG reading.

Apologies for the inconvenience! Today, March 10, 2025, we are performing a server update, which will result in the app being offline for a short period. We’ll be providing updates on the forum as we make progress and will post an announcement once everything is back up and running.

Thank you for your patience, and we appreciate your support!