Pentair System2 PLM300 Leaking - New filter or replacement parts?

natedawg

Member
Oct 14, 2024
22
Oakland, CA
Pool Size
20000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Hey all!

Wanted to get your opinion on whether or not to get a new filter entirely, or just replace some of the parts of the existing filter.

Purchased a home recently that has a pool. They redid all of the mechanical parts and resurfaced the pool in 2020.

Looks like they cracked the housing for the filter pump when threading the inlet and outlet ports, I repaired it and put unions on instead, but I am still getting leaking because of the cracks.

From what I can find, a replacement piece is $400. And I don't think they have replaced the filter itself yet either, and that seems to run another $400 - $500.

So I guess my question is, given that it will probably cost me close to $1,000 to fix this thing and get it back in working order, would I be better off getting an entirely new filter unit? Are the new filter units any better than what I have right now? In terms of cost, performance, or maintenance?

Also one other question would be, how can I tell how much life is left on the current filter cartridge?
 
Here is the equipment pad. It’s leaking on the ports where I put the new unions. Not necessarily coming out of the threads, but out of the bottom piece of the filter housing itself because of the cracks.

It’s a slow leak, probably only a gallon every 30 minutes or so. Hard to tell exactly how much.

I epoxied part where I saw it was leaking but then it started leaking in other spots around the ports too.

IMG_5168.jpeg
IMG_5167.jpeg
 
Show me the new unions you installed and where you put epoxy.

I am confused if it is on your pump or filter.
 
Ah sorry I meant the filter housing, not filter pump.

Specifically it is the lower half tank shell. It looks to be cracked all of the way through the ports, I can see the cracks on both the inside of the tank and the outside of the tank. And it looks to be slowly pushing its way out of the ports because of those cracks. IMG_5170.jpeg

I’ll get some photos of the unions and epoxy in a bit here.

These were the unions I put on: 2
 
You need to buy a new tank. That is not going to be repairable. The filter is under pressure and no epoxy will hold against the pressure.
 
Ah sorry I meant the filter housing, not filter pump.

Specifically it is the lower half tank shell. It looks to be cracked all of the way through the ports, I can see the cracks on both the inside of the tank and the outside of the tank. And it looks to be slowly pushing its way out of the ports because of those cracks. View attachment 631424

I’ll get some photos of the unions and epoxy in a bit here.

These were the unions I put on: 2
Not repairable and subject to a larger leak at any time.
 
Would either of you recommend just getting the replacement part (lower half tank shell)? The rest of the filter system seems to be mostly fine.

Or is there any benefit to the newer cartridge filter systems?
 
Would either of you recommend just getting the replacement part (lower half tank shell)? The rest of the filter system seems to be mostly fine.

Or is there any benefit to the newer cartridge filter systems?
What is the price difference?

When you buy a complete new filter you get new cartridges and can keep your old ones as a spare. That lets you swap in one set while you clean the other at your leisure.
 
The bottom tank is $400, and the cartridge is another $400.

I just put a new gauge on and the filter is only reading 5-6 psi when running the pump at 1600 rpm. So seems like the cartridge probably has a decent amount of life left. Not sure what it was reading when it was brand new.
 

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Ok well I ordered the new base, drilled new holes in the concrete (the holes for the old bolts didn't quite line up with the plumbing so moved them ever so slightly to not stress the plumbing as much), and now I am finally leak free! Just wish that stupid part didn't cost so much lol.

Also took the time to install the check valve that was supposed to be inside the filter, as well as the air bleed assembly at the top, since those were both missing for some reason.