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Pentair Screen logic w/ Starlink Gen3

Welcome to TFP.

Why was an obsolete EasyTouch system installed in a new pool instead of a modern IntelliCenter?

The IntelliCenter network connectivity was greatly improved.

Pentair announced the following in April 2023:

Pentair is discontinuing the IntelliTouch, EasyTouch, and EasyTouch PL4/PSL4 Pool Control Systems. These products will no longer be available to order starting:

  • July 31, 2023 for all IntelliTouch Systems
  • September 29, 2023 for all EasyTouch Systems
We recognize these products have been in high demand for many years. However, given advancements in Pentair innovation and evolving industry demands, we are transitioning focus to the latest technology standards included with the IntelliCenter Pool Control System.

Pentair FAQ:

What control system should I order?
The recently updated IntelliCenter and IntelliCenter Lite Control Systems are the flagship automation products at Pentair, with both systems offering best-in-class technology and the most versatile control for most pool types.

Will warranties still be honored for my customers’ existing control system?
Warranty and replacement parts will be honored as available per our standard warranty policy. For more information, please review the EasyTouch and IntelliTouch FAQs.

Will obsolete products continue to be supported?
Products moved to obsolete status will continue to be supported under warranty. Pentair will replace legacy systems under warranty with comparable equipment while parts are available. If replacement parts are unavailable for existing systems under warranty, the IntelliCenter Upgrade Kit for EasyTouch, EasyTouch PL4/PSL4, and IntelliTouch systems may be required.

Refill Inquiry

With a full drain, you can test your fill water and go from there.

With a partial drain or a no drain exchange that mixes a little, complete the process and mix well once refilled.

The test and go from there.

*At no point* do you buy a one size fits all chemical kit. They are often laced with copper and sulfates and are really bad for the pool. Do not ever buy one for startup, maintaining, or winter. Zero. Times. :ROFLMAO:
I will probably do the full drain along with a filter clean to give me the best possible start on my first summer with this pool. Likely to need all the help I can get. Thanks for the advice on the chemical kits. I never thought it seemed like a good idea and you confirmed that.

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Superflo pentair vs pump wont come on when cold

Tami,

If you have ScreenLogic, you either have a EasyTouch or IntelliTouch.. Both of those systems can sometimes do funny things when freeze control turns on..

When the pump won't run, is the system in 'Freeze Control' mode?

Do you have a pump speed set up for when freeze control kicks in?

You might just shut off freeze protection for the pump and then see if it runs manually when cold.

Thanks,

Jim R.

Superflo pentair vs pump wont come on when cold

I posted about this before. Our pump will not work when it's cold. Once the sun comes around and warms up the equipment I can turn it on. This winter I started it before the sun went down and left it all night and it kept running but it won't do anything if I wait until it gets cold. It was in 40s last night. I'm summer we dont have any issues. What could be causing this. The lights occasionally flash i was reading there is an internal sensor at the motor. Could this be causing this? And is it fixable.

Fluctuating Flow Rate

dj,

I still do not under this fascination with GPM.. No matter what the GPM reading is, your SWCG will turn on at whatever flow makes it turn on.. It does not matter if the manual says you need 20, 25, or 30 GPM.. The only thing that matters is the particular speed or flow that actually turns on your cell when it is installed in your system.

The best way to find that speed/flow is reduce the flow until the SWCG reports 'low flow'.. Then, slowly increase the flow until the cell just reports good flow. Then add a little more flow and call it a day.

Thanks,

Jim R.
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Refill Inquiry

What's the process for determing how much of what I need to add in the beginning
With a full drain, you can test your fill water and go from there.

With a partial drain or a no drain exchange that mixes a little, complete the process and mix well once refilled. Then test and go from there.

*At no point* do you buy a one size fits all chemical kit. They are often laced with copper and sulfates and are really bad for the pool. Do not ever buy one for startup, maintaining, or winter. Zero. Times. :ROFLMAO:
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Once more unto the breech....

Well the weather just hasn't cooperated. Pebble was delayed each week first due to the very cold nights and then all the rain and storms. Then something came up... After some particularly heavy rains, we began noticing some weeping from the shell. A couple spots showed a little more than weeping. Our water table is high and there is a natural spring somewhere behind my property so this has raised concerns.

Frankly, the gunite/shotcrete shell was not the most aesthetically pleasing. There are some very rough spots where it seemed they forgot to trowel and there are lots of little surface holes and gaps. I know the roughness is better for the pebble to adhere but I was a little concerned from the get go. I was told they were using a hybrid version where the water is pumped in further back from the nozzle and gives a more wet version. My builder has come out a few times and agrees the shell has some imperfections. He brought out the owner of the gunite subcontractor and the pebble tech rep to look things over. Of course the owner of the gunite company said everything is fine, but our builder is not happy and has decided to have them apply Membrane C to the entire shell in addition to chipping out and injecting the weep areas as well as grind smooth some very rough spots. Plan is for that to happen next week barring any further weather delays. We are getting this big storm tomorrow but we should be in the clear by later Monday.

Has anyone had experience with the Membrane C? Curious other peoples thoughts on this.

Another separate issue- our well has a very high iron content. We have an iron remover and softener system for the whole house but I had my water treatment folks out here to make sure the spigot for the autofill was part of the post treated plumbing. It is luckily but the water still has 1ppm iron using a color change kit. (I used to do saltwater reef systems so I have a more accurate Hanna Checker but need to get some reagent to run the test). This water would only be used for the autofill (we are trucking in water for the initial fill), the question is how much Iron in the autofill water is too much? I know staining can start when the pool water reaches 0.3ppm, but I would expect it to be quite some time before the concentration reached that level simply using 1ppm top off water.

We checked the well's raw water while he was here.....yuk! pure orange. 10ppm iron! He thinks the liner of the well may be leaking or compromised....we are going to do a camera inspection of the well next week. Always something!!

Anyway, would appreciate if anyone can provide some opinions or thoughts on the above. Thanks!!

Here are some photos of the shell weeps- IMG_6808.jpegIMG_6793.jpegIMG_6794.jpeg

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Refill Inquiry

Moved into a house with a pool in October and the previous pooltender told me it hasn't been drained and refilled in years. That can be an issue in Arizona. Hardness and CYA are extremely high so I think it's time for a drain and refill. My question is about the start-up chemicals. What's the process for determing how much of what I need to add in the beginning. I have a Taylor K-2006 test kit so I can monitor it as need be. Somebody suggested a "start-up kit" but that doesn't make a lot of sense considering I already have the chemicals contained in those kits! Any suggestions would be appreciated.

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