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Wall cracking

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VinnyinNJ said:
I agree with others, drain the pool!
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Our old pool's liner went after about 20 years. We were set to replace it but when we took the liner out there wasn't any bottom rail left so nothing to hold the pool wall together. I was surprised with that and the amount of rust throughout the inside pool wall.
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We just replaced our liner two years ago and saw no rust! It’s crazy! And we just bought a new filter system for it about 2 months ago….Ugh! Thank you for your feeback. We are currently in the drain phase...
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Hi from Texas

PoolStored
Maldravus said:
Honestly this is very confusing right out of the gate. I’ve bought the $80 kit, chlorinating liquid from Walmart, and now need to buy the app it seems.
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You don’t have to buy the app, it will work just fine, just can’t save test results and chem additions. It is 8$ per YEAR.
Maldravus said:
How often am I testing cya?
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Every couple weeks.
Maldravus said:
I just compared my results to Leslie’s and they’re off (fc 2.23, ph 8.1, ta 105). Who should I trust?
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Your kit.
Testing_Accuracy.jpeg

Testing_Accuracy.jpeg


Maldravus said:
I have 50lbs worth of pucks, do I keep using those until cya gets too high?
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Sure. Switch to liquid when you get to about 60. CYA will degrade 5-10 per month.
Maldravus said:
Then how do I know how much and how frequently to add lc?
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Test and add daily. Use pool math for how much.
Maldravus said:
Can I use muriatic or liquid acid on fiberglass?
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To lower pH? Yes. Pour it very slowly in front of a return, then brush a bit to mix.
Maldravus said:
I think someone here said yes but Leslie’s told me no. It’s all very confusing for a new pool owner.
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It gets way easier!
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Do I have the wrong Pump Motor?

J
Joey TheTrapper said:
mine is a thin round o-ring and that one looks to be flat
could it be that the housing gasket shown recesses back in a groove? making it looks like an o-ring
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SPX1600T is a flat gasket.

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Aladdin Hayward Super Pump Housing Gasket - SPX1600T - G-95 - INYOPools.com

G-95 - GASKET, HOUSING (G-95) (SPX1600T)
www.inyopools.com www.inyopools.com
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1742507351506.png

J
1742507351506.png

Is this Dichlor? Is this Potassium Monopersulfate (MSP)?

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Two more questions if I may:

1. How do I measure the Dichlor granules? By weight? What is 1ppm equal to in a measurement?

2. When can we start using the hot tub? Once I add my first batch of Dichlor and get some sanitation going and the chlorine ppm is testing between 2 and 6, is that okay? Do I need to balance out pH and TA first also?...My wife and kids are about to revolt 😆
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1742507283998.png

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Do I have the wrong Pump Motor?

Joey TheTrapper
PoolStored said:
Go kit 3. I'm recommending the salt version because the shaft seal is better and worth it in my opinion.
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Thanks, I do have a Salt pool
looking at that kit the housing gasket doesn't look right, mine is a thin round o-ring and that one looks to be flat
could it be that the housing gasket shown recesses back in a groove? making it looks like an o-ring
the lid o-ring, diffuser gasket, and seal look exactly like what I have
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Unexpected CYA test result

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PoolStored said:
Testing error likely. Pool water that is colder than 50 degrees will test wrong on CYA.

You want to have the pump running for 24 hours before you test. You also want warm the sample to room temperature for the CYA test.

Did you do the test outdoors in the sunlight?

Refresher... CYA - Cyanuric Acid Test
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Thank you. Its in the 40s and cloudy here right now and I did not let it warm up. Ill do it the right way tomorrow.
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Is this Dichlor? Is this Potassium Monopersulfate (MSP)?

VinnyinNJ
Just use dichlor, keep your free chlorine at the recommended levels. Once you get to 30 PPM of stabilizer which is ~30 PPM dichlor total added, switch to bleach/ liquid chlorine. Just a FYI, I don't know if anything has changed but years ago liquid chlorine/bleach would void your warranty.

If for some reason you feel the need to shock then use a slam level of chlorine. MPS will give you false readings of combined chlorine.
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