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Hayward S200 replacement

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Dogma said:
Thanks to you and @PoolStored for the reply.

I assume it would be the S244T since my current model seems to have 1 1/2 inch piping.

It's currently for sale for $599, should I just go with that or go with the 27 inch for $40 more?
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For $40 I would always go larger. Those 27" tanks are so popular in my area my suppliers can't keep them in stock.
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Waterway Power Defender 270, no power to control center

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ajw22 said:
Welcome to TFP.


The "Drive" is the control panel and electronics in it that controls the VS motor.

Did you check the voltage between L1 and L2 at the pump?

What was the voltage reading?

Let's see if @1poolman1 is familiar with that pump.
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That motor is the Nidec Neptune 270. If there is proper power at the L1 and L2 (240V) and it doesn't light up, the drive has probably been damaged. As with all variable-speed motors, the drive is the most expensive of the two parts. Fortunately, the replacement cost of that entire motor is less than the replacement cost of the drive of the other major manufacturer's motors.

That is one reason that I always recommend that Waterway pump first unless automation is involved. Even then, using relay inputs is usually all that most pools really need. Have installed many of those motors to both Pentair and Jandy systems for completely satisfied customers. The fact that the entire pump usually costs less that any of the "big 3" brands doesn't hurt either.
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When Should I Add Salt

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Hi all, I would like to know when I should start adding salt to the pool. I am currently using liquid chlorine in the pool and need some advice around adding salt. Do I wait until the pool temp stays above 60' or higher? Also, what are the directions for adding salt into the pool and running the pump and SWG. I think I need to maintain above 2,500-3,000 ppm for the SWG to function, but pool math has it set to 1000 ppm. Please confirm what your suggestions are. Thanks,
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Aqualink OneTouch Control panel with blank screen - pool is new to me

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AmberCrest said:
LoL... I guess our messages passed each other, just above I added more about this:

I had not looked closely at some of the yard photos taken a while back till now. Evidently, we have a Fiberstars 6004 or 6004-AS but it looks very trashed.
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Considering the apparent condition, I gather the better alternative will likely be to put in some Treo LEDs but the cost is disheartening... I've never liked the idea of being forced to use a specific manufacturers product because of what was previously installed but there may not be an option. That said, I have fabricated all sorts of LED fixtures - I might be tempted to rebuild those in-pool lenses to house a COB LED if I can make it fit...
Any idea how big they are inside?
And it seems odd to me that most of the power supplies I see are 12vAC rather than DC, when LEDs, without extra help, are DC devices.
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If you have power to the tower, get one of these installed and see if you are happy with the output into the pool.
You can also pull some of the fiber cable out a bit, wrap the end with electrical tape, use a utility knife to cut a small but off and that will increase the amount of light that gets to the in-pool lens. It doesn't actually cut, but breaks off that part revealing a clear path for the light. Those fiber ends get discolored due to the high heat from the bulb.

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Proper procedure for removing/filling in a fiberglass pool

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We have been getting estimates to remove/fill in our 21-year-old fiberglass pool. It looks like the pool wasn't backfilled correctly 21-years ago and that is why we keep experiencing leaks and cracks in the coping and deck. People on here probably think we are nuts for wanting to remove a pool that would probably cost 80K-100K to build right now but we don't use the pool any more now that the kids are grown and a real estate agent says that our home will be easier to sell someday if the pool is gone since older pools tend to scare off buyers and don't add much value to homes here. We are tired of fishing dead critters and leaves out of our pool and wasting money on repairs and maintenance so we think its time to go ahead and remove the pool. One of our neighbors is getting a pool installed and has agreed to give us their dirt for free, so it looks like we can get the pool removed for approximately 6K-10K.

I have a feeling that the next owner of our home will want a pool since we have the perfect size lot for one (1.5 acres) and most of our neighbors have inground pools. I want to make sure we fill this pool in correctly so a prospective buyer who wants a pool won't be hesitant to buy our home. I know that we need to get all of the fiberglass removed, but I'm getting different opinions on whether or not it is okay to bury the concrete deck in the hole. One company wants to remove and trash the fiberglass shell, break up the concrete deck and use the broken pieces as part of the fill. They will then fill the rest of the hole with dirt and rocks in layers, and compact it along the way. We will be keeping 80% of the decking for our patio furniture so there won't be a large quantity of concrete that would be put in the hole. Another company says that all of the concrete needs to be removed to prevent settlement and sinkholes and make it so another pool can be easily installed in the same spot someday. This estimate is higher because of the cost for concrete removal and additional costs for dirt.

I've been told that its not necessary to remove the underground piping, since a lot of it is covered up by landscaping right now. They will disconnect the electrical and cap the gas line at the equipment end before removing the pool. The sand from the sand filter will be thrown in the hole. No permits or inspections are required in our town to remove the pool.

Does anyone on here know the proper procedure for filling in a fiberglass pool? The companies that I've been dealing with haven't removed many inground pools before and have never removed a fiberglass one so I want to make sure that I hire someone who is following proper procedures.
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Repair Wet Edge Plaster without Draining the Pool?

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HermanTX said:
I had similar work done on my pool with Primera Stone. They took 100 grit diamond sanding pad and smoothed rough areas and other uneven spots by hand underwater. They also used some sort of plaster filler where they dug out some small (nickel size) divots.

Not sure where you are located but hopefully the water is 80f or higher.
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Hi
We’re they able to put the filler in with the water in the pool?
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Water exchange

PoolStored
Pennypat said:
Right now, I’m using my salt level to determine if the exchange is complete. After 3 days of 24 hours of exchange, my salt level is 400 ppm. My question is: Can I actually get the level to zero?
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The issue with the water exchange and measuring salt is this. For the exchange to be effective, you need to turn the pump off, and figure out the temperature/TDS differential between the pool and fill water to determine where to fill and where to drain. The point is that you want the water to stratify (hence the pump off). So that the water you are draining is the pool water, not the new fill water.

In order to accurately measure the salt content, you then, AFTER you are done with the exchange, mix the water together before you sample and test.

It is best to do the exchange longer than you think/calculate, if you want the best chance at exchanging the most water.

You will likely never get it to zero. By the way, if you use liquid chlorine and muriatic acid, they both add salt.
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Elevated spa drains

Jimrahbe
R,

You can't really install an actuator wrong.. But, it can operate 'backwards' from what you want... There is a little 3-way switch on the actuator somewhere.. It is an "On - Off - On" switch. One on position moves the valve 180 degrees one way, and the other on position move the valve 180 degrees the other way.. You just set it so that when you are in the Pool mode, the Spa pipe is shut off.

Thanks,

Jim R.
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Newdude
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Elevated spa drains

Jimrahbe
R,

Just take the old actuator off the top of the Jandy valve and install the new one.. No calibration or adjustments in your case.. Actuators come with a long cord that you will have to run back to your automation and plug in.. Just remove the old one and plug in the new one..

In your case, it would make sense to remove the old actuator and then follow the old cord back to the automation, just to make sure you remove the right one, and install the new one in the right port.

Actuators are held in place by 4 long screws... Make sure you NEVER put one of the long screw back in without the actuator installed.. If you do, it will ruin the valve body.

I have no spa and have never had to replace the flapper (guts) of one.. I do know if you buy a cheap one, it may or may not work. If I were buying one, I'd see what brand the old check valve is and then I'd buy whole new check valve and then just use the flapper. Just because I've seen too many not working here.. It may be overkill.. :scratch: :mrgreen:

That said, I see that you have two check valves... One to the Spa pipe that is just left of your Return valve. And the one that is on the Make-up line just to the right of the Make-up valve.. Being as cheap as I am, I think I would try just swapping the flappers.. You really don't even need the check valve on the left side.. Worth a shot any way.

Also.. You might want to drain your spa to empty, when you open the check valves.. Unless you just like getting wet. :) Doing this may also drain down your filter or something else, so you may get wet no matter what..

I buy most of my pool equipment here...


Thanks,

Jim R.
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Is this a superflo vs or whisperflo vs drive?

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@JamesW - thanks so much for all this info. I guess the only way to make sure the pump I have is a Whisperflo and not superflo, is to look at the impeller given the motor/drive are the same for both pumps. Everything else checks out (except the lack of the sticker with the S/N)... so is it worth taking the pump apart to confirm the part no on the impeller... :unsure:
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Is this a superflo vs or whisperflo vs drive?

J
Whisperflo VST uses a a 073130 impeller, which is 2.6 hp (Total).

Pentair can rate the HP at pretty much anything they want to make the pump brochure meets the marketing needs.

You want a strong pump, then it is 2.6 hp?

Your want a low power efficient pump, then it is a 1.5 hp pump.

The WhisperFlo VST has better performance, so it uses more power.

Impeller......Total HP.

073126.........0.95
073127.........1.25
073128.........1.65
073129.........2.20
073130.........2.60
073131.........3.45

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