The other way is to replace your water that has iron with iron free water.

See the No Drain Water Exchange in Draining - Further Reading

Otherwise you must keep adding sequestrant yo Kerp the iron in suspension or it will deposit on pool surfaces.

Putting crushed vitamin C tablets in a dock and rubbing it on an area will let you spot treat iron stains.

CeltiaK said:

One thing you may like to try - get the Hayward skimmer (we had the regular size on our 18' round) and DIY the install. It keeps the water surface cleaner, and you can use hair nets or skimmer socks to collect the pollen and fluff that will clog your sand prematurely.

Intex Skimmer Install

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I got a little skimmer bucket that I attach near the filter! That thing saved my life last summer with the June Bugs!

Newdude said:

I'm sorry but I have to ask how you know the breaker is bad, but not how to remove it. It takes more skill to know how to troubleshoot and replacing a breaker is long covered by then.

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Haha very appropriate question. Our pool builder company was here opening the pool and did some initial trouble shooting etc. But since it was electrical and they were just doing the opening and moving on to the next, they suggested an electrician to replace the breaker. I've understood this to be an easy diy thing, and along the lines of replacing ceiling lights and switches etc which I'm comfortable doing. Especially since it's a weekend with no electrician in sight until maybe 3-4 days from now, this seemed like something I could try first, and if it works, great. If not, I still make the electrician call tomorrow. But like I said, I rocked and pulled/pushed relatively firmly with no luck, so just wanted to crowd source if there was some trick to this that wasn't obvious. We'll give it a more aggressive go with this reassurance it isn't rocket science. Thanks!

Pentair tech support suggests testing their new ones before installation. The sensor may be tested with an ohm meter (3.8 MegOhms @ 77F).

If you decide to get a new SFS, check the stack flue temp when you get it back together and running to confirm that the stack flue temps are where they should be, and not too high.

It would have sprayed water on the person you hired. Then they would have charged a bunch of money to repair it.

I would remove the screws and remove the gasket. Inspect it's condition and check for any dirt or sand on the gasket or in the gasket channel. Relube the gasket with pool lube and reinstall the MPV. If you still get water spraying, you may need a new spider gasket. This assumes the previous person didn't install it with an adhesive.

Depending on the air temps and how much shade you get, it could be days or weeks until the water is warm enough for the cell to kick on.

Any leftover algae will be waking up during that same stretch and its advisable to be a LC pool until then. 30 mins after mixing get some FC in there. (I choose 10 in case there is 0 CYA left, its SLAM for 0CYA, or its more than min if I retained any CYA).

Overnight Chlorine Loss Test no matter how clear the water may be.

At 24 hours mixing the CYA test is valid, but then you'll have to wait for overhead sun so between the schedule and the weather, it may have to wait.

Once you have the CYA level, manually dose FC as appropriate whether you are slamming or you passed the OCLT and are just maintaining the daily loss.

Whenever the SWG comes online, thank him for his service and let it take over daily doses, already being in range.

The first 2 years at the new place the SWG kicked on 3 days later. This year the temps dropped bad after I pulled the cover so it took a few weeks. You have to roll with it.

What percent do you have your acid dispense set at? Mine is currently running @20% so the level change over a couple days is tiny.
Did you change out your pump tube as well (pentair says to change annually, I checked mine annually and changed at 2yrs)

Pic added now. That deck looks good to me in the picture.

When you say "a cleaner, brighter look" what do you mean? Do you want to super clean your deck/coping or are you thinking of replacing it?

You can clean with bleach to get the current stone cleaner. It will not hurt the pool as we use chlorine (bleach) in our pools.

It is very common to set the decking in sand. They did a good job as the ones seen in the picture are nice and level.

Tell us more of what you are thinking and we can help you find what you want I am sure.

I'm sorry but I have to ask how you know the breaker is bad, but not how to remove it. It takes more skill to know how to troubleshoot and replacing a breaker is long covered by then.

After owning one of these for over a year I'm reasonably happy with it. I do think it's strange though that I never see these recommended anywhere else on the internet except here. I'm not saying people recommend against them... it just doesn't seem to be on anyone's radar except here. LOL

Has anybody figured out a way to get theirs to clean for more than 2.5 hours in wall/floor mode, or 1.5 hours in floor mode? It seems like such an unusual arbitrary limitation in this day, since I'm finding my 20x40 pool is still typically not sufficiently cleaned after a 2.5 hour cycle.

Also, ours frequently gets itself up onto our wet deck (around 8" of water deep), does a wheelie, and then sends a help message to our app for somebody to go back and toss it back into the pool and tell it to start again. Any suggestions to avoid this? Our neighbors bought one just like ours and their pool has more shallow areas and they just completely gave up on using wall mode as a result of the constant baby sitting. In floor only mode it works fine for them.

Horizontal mounted breakers "rock" from the load end to unhook from a clip and the power bus, I assume the mounting is the same for yours.

Disconnect power first. Unscrew the wires at the bottom and lift kinda up and away and the breaker should pop off.

Installation is simply reverse, hook the new breaker onto the clip and rotate it down and in until it snaps onto the power bus. Then rewire and turn on the power.

It's easy.

Did you drain the pool water to remove all bromine? Bromine can't be stabilized against sunlight, so it is not a good choice for outdoor pools. However if any bromine is in the water and chlorine is added,then it becomes bromine again. You have to start fresh with new water.

Looks like maybe copper, silver and iron stains.

Do you use minerals?

Can you post a full set of readings?

Can you pull the filter cartridge and show what it looks like before and after cleaning?

Can you show the system?

rdelisa said:

According to the TFP SLAM Chart,

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Disregard the chart if you aren't following the process. The #s don't apply to other methods. They are designed to be sustained and touching them here or there, or going totally rogue with your own plan is not the process.


SLAM Process

Good article.

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