Check the weir door to make sure its not stuck.

Lube the pump lid gasket and union o ring before the pump.

If you have multiple suction legs (main drains ?), only pull from one leg.

ethany said:

do get faint bubbles in further returns but mostly in the two closer returns.

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Air escapes the easiest way out, so that part is normal for the circumstances

Welcome to TFP.

This is an Aquapure system?

172/185/186 are all flow sensor problems.

I would replace the Tri-sensor.

Show us pictures of your equipment pad, the Aquapure panel, and the cell and sensor.

Also I didn’t lose any water from pool

We're on our 4th Intex... never thought we'd keep buying a "starter" pool. But we started the same way - damage to our original (very affordable) 18-foot inflatable ring (with the ring, it functioned more like a 16'). The first upgrade was only slightly bigger (18-foot metal supports). That one also got damaged before the end of it's functional life. The second upgrade was significantly larger in usable space, but not much more water or annual chemicals (salt, CYA) (12x24). For that one, I also sourced a bigger Intex pump and sand filter. When it wore out, we tried really hard to get a "real" above-ground, but during Covid, none of the local suppliers would answer emails. So... Intex #4 (another 12x24) has been going strong.

We leave the pool up for the winter, draining half, and bringing the equipment inside. Each iteration of pool, we've improved our installation techniques and every year, we try to upgrade some piping or equipment. Going bigger is a good idea - you'll love the 18'! And even if your filter is a bit undersized, it will still work - you just need to backwash a bit more often.

One thing you may like to try - get the Hayward skimmer (we had the regular size on our 18' round) and DIY the install. It keeps the water surface cleaner, and you can use hair nets or skimmer socks to collect the pollen and fluff that will clog your sand prematurely.

Intex Skimmer Install

Thx for replies……. I have one skimmer and I guess not pulling water because I can’t get pump to prime. I poured a bucket of water in skimmer basket but the pump just runs.

I do get faint bubbles in further returns but mostly in the two closer returns.

You thinking it could be between skimmer and pump?

Your equipment was all purchased in the aftermath of the shortages, when every manufacturer of *anything* was rushing out garbage to stock the shelves. It has only improved some since then and not fully IMO.

Welcome to TFP.

Removing the surface may be what it takes.

Clean one area and see if the spots return.

Can your pool pass a Overnight Chlorine Loss Test? If not, you have algae and need to follow the SLAM Process.

When I did a search for River Roc I found several dealers in FL most of them being in mid and south FL. Dealer Locator - SGM, Inc.

Are you thinking of doing the work your self? I do know that many of them will not sell to the general public. I suggest you call some of the ones closest to you and see what they say. Sure can't hurt to ask!

jkbotki said:

We built our pool in 2021 and it feels like we have had a lot of equipment problems. I would love to know if this is "normal" and I should just budget for regular problems. We are about to replace our sand filter for the second time (tank leaks). This time will be under warranty or I would switch to a fiberglass tank. We used to have an ozone system that shorted out last year and killed the whole equipment pad. We did not replace that because I wouldn't have it if I had known better when we built the pool. Our heater has shorted out and needed to be fixed at least once every season so far. It is currently dead again. Is it typical to have to fix most of your equipment every season?

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All of that should last much more than 10 years easily. Except maybe the ozone, you don’t need that anyway.

RonR21711 said:

Hi. The 50k gallon salt water pool in VA has been open for three weeks. It’s been covered with an automatic safety cover 90% of the time due to cool weather. The water is very clear but I have some wonky test results and am new to this.
5/11/25 - CYA 38-40, Ph around 8, FC 26ppm, CC 0, TA 60

CYA seems low and chlorine is off the charts. I’ve opened the cover today to let some sunshine to it thinking that will help and then test again tomorrow. Thoughts?

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How are you testing? (The 38-40 specifically) the Taylor tests don’t have that kind of resolution.

Melnox said:

The app is telling me to add 2g of pH Down / Dry Acid. But I believe it should be 20g instead.View attachment 645021

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Like above, the TA needs to be there.

But beware your SWG does not like the use of dry acid.

I looked at your prior pics, but did not look at previous posts to get an idea about your layout.
Post pictures of your pool, and several angles on your complete equipment area.

Does the pool loose water? (It likely would, if pipe is broken...)
By "nothing in further" do you mean no water at all, or just no air bubbles?
Do all skimmers pull water? Does the problem improve if you try closing each via their valve (if you have one), one at a time?

Does not come with cover:

You need to put your TA in to have an accurate pH adjustment.

Skiddy said:

Thanks for the advice and I am aware that keeping it at a perfect 4ppm is impossible on a day to day basis.

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Ok GREAT. You'd be surprised how many test and see a X everyday and think it sits there.

You'd also be surprised how many don't think about the difference of seeing a 4 in the morning verses a 4 in the evening.

You also also be surprised to catch your SWG off for 12 hours during or after big rains. If the system does a self check at the wrong time of a FL downpour, it'll read low salt and shut off until the next self check. Then you might lose your 4ppm that day. Nobody sees it because it probably makes it back up by the time they test again, but it happens. I aim for high target or above for wiggle room.

Welcome to TFP.
Please read
Pool Care Basics

Also, consider purchasing a recommended test kit -
Test Kits Compared

As we all of learned over time - Never say “never”. Good luck!

email [email protected]
@Leebo

Skiddy said:

Thanks for the advice and I am aware that keeping it at a perfect 4ppm is impossible on a day to day basis. I should have said 3-5 is the range I will be shooting for. There are several factors I have used over the last 5 years with my old unit including runtime, flow rate, chlorine production% and of course the big one here in south Florida is environmental effects.
I have been testing my water every week since I had the pool installed 5 years ago. The ichlor did well for 4.5 years and was easy to regulate that same ppm range. I hope this unit gives me as long if not longer but glad it was an easy install. I was struggling with the images due to size. I may just make a seperate post with more install images since this is a new system to help get more info out there.

Click to expand...

The pictures came through on your previous post.
Can you post a full set of test results?

As your CYA increases be sure to follow the FC/CYA Levels. With a SWCG, you can target a CYA of 60-80.

Also a fan. Wait. Nevermind.

Once you pass the OCLT then let the FC decline back to 8-10ppm
Then do a full test - add the type of test kit to your signature. Post the test results here. Be sure to include a CYA and salt test.
I assume the pictures are a pre and post SLAM result. Great work.

Thanks for the advice and I am aware that keeping it at a perfect 4ppm is impossible on a day to day basis. I should have said 3-5 is the range I will be shooting for. There are several factors I have used over the last 5 years with my old unit including runtime, flow rate, chlorine production% and of course the big one here in south Florida is environmental effects.
I have been testing my water every week since I had the pool installed 5 years ago. The ichlor did well for 4.5 years and was easy to regulate that same ppm range. I hope this unit gives me as long if not longer but glad it was an easy install. I was struggling with the images due to size. I may just make a seperate post with more install images since this is a new system to help get more info out there.

Pas_pool said:

So it sounds like it’s either do the work now and have a little less later or continuous work throughout the season. I would prefer to do a little bit more work now, but I’m not using the pool and get it good then just maintain.

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mas985 said:

One other factor to consider is that if you have high TA/PH fill water and rely on that fill water fairly often, there will be a tendency for the pool water PH & TA to rise anyway. This is why I don't bother with manual dosing anymore and went with an automatic acid dosing system.

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PAS. You got it. and @ajw22 is right. I went through the same thing. I had to have my TA down, so I built an aeration rig, that now sits dormant as I've learned.

Create another pool in pool math called Fill Water. Test the pH, TA, CH of your fill water and save it as a record in Fill Water.

Post those results here (we can only see your default pool)

ol_whistle_britches said:

didn’t pay anywhere near that much.

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Every year they spike as the season gets going. I was thisclose to picking up my next SWG at $500 off with the pre season sale. I don't know how many years it has left on it but I am 1000% sure they won't be $1300 at that time, not even on sale.

DSP, naturally, has to jack theirs to $3k so it can still be on sale.

My score, which will also jinx me:

Pump itself - 37 years, still going fine.
Pump motor (upgrade) - 15-18(?) years, still going fine.
Heater, finally dead. Old was 25+ years. We'll see on the new when it arrives.
Filter, old stainless sand - 34 years. New cartridge, 3 yrs so far.
Vinyl liner - averages about 12+ yrs.
Skimmers - 37 years, but one has been patched, and anticipate failure someday.
Plumbing ball valves - 36 years. Replaced all 6 last year with real diverters, one replaced again a couple of days ago, due to crack.
Diving board - 37 years, but really should have been done a few years ago. The dogs hardly ever use it. To be replaced this year.
SWCG - 3 years so far.

I'd do a SLAM. Filter pressure rising and beige grids. Marginal OCLT. YMMV

Can you plug the closest return and just try to flow to the other returns?
Bleed air from filter.