Advice on salt cell replacement

[Skiddy]

My Pentair iChlor 30 cell has reached the end of its life span. I went to a new local pool supply shop to have him give me a price on a replacement.
This is my first time replacing one of these so he quoted me $1300 an then said I will need a new power unit as well because they both usually go bad at the same. So that was $1400 but then he began to introduce me to a generic system he carried right there in house and claimed it was better than Pentair and had a better warranty for only $1600?

 

[HermanTX]

The iChlor is not as good as the Pentair IntelliChlor series. Although the latter is more expensive.
Before you jump to a new system, suggest you review the models on Discount Salt Pools. They have a good comparison chart and also have a CircaPool brand that many members use with great success. I would not jump on a sales pitch of a pool store rep.

 

[ajw22]

You don’t need to replace the power supply when you replace the iChlor cell.

When an IntelliChlor or iChlor SCG is wired to IntelliConnect via an RS-485 cable, a power connection to the load side of the pump relay is not required. Digital commands sent from the IntelliConnect to the SCG will not allow chlorine production when the filter pump relay has low/no power or when the IntelliFlo is not running.

Using a generic cell will not be able to use that feature and you will need the SWG connected to a timer or relay.

Pentair has new IntelliChlor LT cells that are an improvement on the iChlor.

IntelliChlor® Plus & LT Salt Chlorine Generators

The IntelliChlor® Plus & LT Salt Chlorine Generators are new and improved designs that use ordinary table salt to help make pools cleaner, clearer, and silkier.

www.pentair.com

 

[Newdude]

With automation you'll want to stick with Pentair. If you're happy with the IC30 being plenty oversized for you, look at them online to consider if you feel the warranty is worth the pool guy upcharge. I'm hardcore on team nope. I can even lose and I've saved 100X whatever broke by never caring about warranties.

It's a 5 min swap including throwing out the garbage afterwards, so you don't need the pros to install it. Power centers typically last for several cells.

 

[generessler]

Here is the chart @HermanTX is talking about. It's kind of obvious, but another loss for the generic system is ability to monitor or control it with the rest of the Pentair system, i.e. the app. It's not clear why, but afaik, there is zero cross-brand compatibility of controls for SWGs.

 

[Skiddy]

Thanks for all the great advice guys. I am leaning towards the new intellichlor plus. If anyone knows a reliable online resource to purchase one im all ears

 

[Jimrahbe]

If anyone knows a reliable online resource to purchase one im all ears

Skiddy,

I like this place...

Pentair IntelliChlor

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[Skiddy]

Thanks I reached out to a Pentair dealer and they told me an exact replacement for my iChlor 30 is the intellichlor 30 plus which was available while the 25 was not. I went ahead and ordered one.

 

[PoolStored]

intellichlor 30 plus

This is a new product. Any reviews and insights you have would be valuable.

 

[Skiddy]

This is a new product. Any reviews and insights you have would be valuable.

I will report back when I have the data.

 

[Skiddy]

I did receive and install the new unit. Intellichlor Plus 30.
It was a 100% plug n play swap. Very simple and took a total of 15 mins to install mostly due to changing out the O rings and lubing them. Once the power was turned back on the unit starts to calculate or read the salinity of the water and shows it once it finishes. Mine was at 3300 it recommends 3600. I added 1 bag of salt which increased my reading to 4000.
I use the Pentair intelliconnect app to automate my system.
I am still in the adjustment stage of the new unit. It will take some time to figure out and set the output % to achieve the 4ppm sweet spot they recommend. From what I understand the % is simply what percentage of the time the unit turns on and off.
I had one hiccup. I had the app set at 50% to start and did not visually check the unit. The next morning I went out to check and it was at 0% and not producing chlorine even though the app said 50% and working fine. I tried to manually adjust the unit but it did not respond at all. I decided to cycle the power again for the system and it did fix the issue. I have been running now for 48 hours at 50%
A few pictures of the unit

 

[Newdude]

I am still in the adjustment stage of the new unit. It will take some time to figure out and set the output % to achieve the 4ppm sweet spot they recommend.

It is impossible to achieve. You have no or very little loss most of the 24 hour day, then the FC loss spikes mid morning to mid afternoon then returns to little/no.

The cell makes a constant amount of FC which is the exact opposite.

When you produce and when you test it is as important as how much you produce. You need to forsee how the next cycle is going to play out in regards to production time/amount and UV loss time/amount.

percentage of the time the unit turns on and off

Yes. It produces X % of the hours you run it. 12 hours at 100% is 12 hours on. 24 hours at 50% is on off on off on off on off to equal 12 hours runtime. (Or equivalent maths)

 

[Skiddy]

Thanks for the advice and I am aware that keeping it at a perfect 4ppm is impossible on a day to day basis. I should have said 3-5 is the range I will be shooting for. There are several factors I have used over the last 5 years with my old unit including runtime, flow rate, chlorine production% and of course the big one here in south Florida is environmental effects.
I have been testing my water every week since I had the pool installed 5 years ago. The ichlor did well for 4.5 years and was easy to regulate that same ppm range. I hope this unit gives me as long if not longer but glad it was an easy install. I was struggling with the images due to size. I may just make a seperate post with more install images since this is a new system to help get more info out there.

 

[HermanTX]

Thanks for the advice and I am aware that keeping it at a perfect 4ppm is impossible on a day to day basis. I should have said 3-5 is the range I will be shooting for. There are several factors I have used over the last 5 years with my old unit including runtime, flow rate, chlorine production% and of course the big one here in south Florida is environmental effects.
I have been testing my water every week since I had the pool installed 5 years ago. The ichlor did well for 4.5 years and was easy to regulate that same ppm range. I hope this unit gives me as long if not longer but glad it was an easy install. I was struggling with the images due to size. I may just make a seperate post with more install images since this is a new system to help get more info out there.

The pictures came through on your previous post.
Can you post a full set of test results?

As your CYA increases be sure to follow the FC/CYA Levels. With a SWCG, you can target a CYA of 60-80.

 

[Newdude]

Thanks for the advice and I am aware that keeping it at a perfect 4ppm is impossible on a day to day basis.

Ok GREAT. You'd be surprised how many test and see a X everyday and think it sits there.

You'd also be surprised how many don't think about the difference of seeing a 4 in the morning verses a 4 in the evening.

You also also be surprised to catch your SWG off for 12 hours during or after big rains. If the system does a self check at the wrong time of a FL downpour, it'll read low salt and shut off until the next self check. Then you might lose your 4ppm that day. Nobody sees it because it probably makes it back up by the time they test again, but it happens. I aim for high target or above for wiggle room.

 

[Skiddy]

I will be out of town for a few days but I will get some results up here soon.

The pictures came through on your previous post.
Can you post a full set of test results?

As your CYA increases be sure to follow the FC/CYA Levels. With a SWCG, you can target a CYA of 60-80.

 

[Skiddy]

I grabbed a quick set of test results before I head out keep in mind I just added some acid due to ph creeping up a bit

Ph 7.4
FC 4.0 up from 3.5 yesterday I feel the SWG @50% will continue to rise over the next few days. I ran my ichlor @ 20-40 depending on the season
TA 70
CH 375-400
CYA 70
Temp 80

 

[PoolStored]

Get that FC up with some liquid chlorine.

 

[Newdude]

I feel the SWG @50% will continue to rise over the next few days

Fool around and find out at 8+ppm instead of 3.5.

I dialed my new pool in at 10. Once I proved it was managing it, I walked away and let it do the job it was doing so well.

 

[Skiddy]

That makes a lot of sense