Nope.

There are a few repairs at opening every year.

You have Jandy, I have Pentair. I removed all my Jandy stuff over the years.

My filter is about 15 years old, the pump is 5+ years old, and the heater is 10 years old, and now you have probably jinxed me.

I did receive and install the new unit. Intellichlor Plus 30.
It was a 100% plug n play swap. Very simple and took a total of 15 mins to install mostly due to changing out the O rings and lubing them. Once the power was turned back on the unit starts to calculate or read the salinity of the water and shows it once it finishes. Mine was at 3300 it recommends 3600. I added 1 bag of salt which increased my reading to 4000.
I use the Pentair intelliconnect app to automate my system.
I am still in the adjustment stage of the new unit. It will take some time to figure out and set the output % to achieve the 4ppm sweet spot they recommend. From what I understand the % is simply what percentage of the time the unit turns on and off.
I had one hiccup. I had the app set at 50% to start and did not visually check the unit. The next morning I went out to check and it was at 0% and not producing chlorine even though the app said 50% and working fine. I tried to manually adjust the unit but it did not respond at all. I decided to cycle the power again for the system and it did fix the issue. I have been running now for 48 hours at 50%
A few pictures of the unit

reaton said:

I know CYA won't just go up, so I'm assuming I've been doing my SLAM at a slightly lower than required FC level.

Click to expand...

Every little bit helps and all, but its not going to change the price of beer. Thank Heavens for that.

Some people put very little effort in and its low single digits by the time they dose. Id rather see steady 12s when it really should have been 16, then 16 to 2. (Etc).

reaton said:

I assumed this was environmental stuff because we've had a lot of storms recently, but is that just dead algae?

Click to expand...

When Mother nature is shedding its impossible to know how much is which. The failed OCLT says that at least some of it was algae.

110 is way close enough IMO but we are split as to which would bother us more. If you leave it be........

The good : TA will continue to fall on its own as you maintain PH in the 7s.

The not perfect : it will pull the Ph up and you'll need to dose muriatic acid a little more often (but not tons).

The Even Steven : slightly increased MA doses will lower the TA for you.

If you go out of your way to get the TA down.......

The good : Ph rise will slow sooner.

The bad : More work now and then you still have to maintain the Ph between now and however long it would have taken to do it the slow way.

The Even Steven : One less thing to think about.

Welcome to TFP.

Try some other pool stores. DE is not being phased out.

DE filters are still widely sold.

The carcinogenic effects of inhaling DE have been known for many years. Don’t sniff it.

Typical with FC over 10 and high CYA.

Verify FC and CYA levels.

JamesW said:

Phenol red gets converted into Chlorophenol red with high FC.

Chlorophenol red is a pH indicator dye that changes color from yellow to violet within the pH range of 4.8 to 6.7.

The pH is likely to be about 6.4.

Did you ever get a pH meter?

View attachment 644648View attachment 644649

View attachment 644641
View attachment 644642

Click to expand...

I’m did get a pH meter. I keep on leaving it at the office, LOL.

+1 to the above.

Have you run the Overnight Chlorine Loss Test yet? If you are passing that and have little to no CC registering then it's just a matter of clearing out the cloudiness. Don't risk slipping back by letting up on the SLAM, but the extra fine filtering of the DE should help speed the final stage along.

JamesW said:

Typically due to chlorine interference.

High CYA slows the process.

Most likely the CYA is well over 100.

Can you post a full set of readings including CC?

Was FC tested with FAS-DPD?

Post current readings and also prior readings.

Post all chemicals added since prior readings.

Is the pool on Trichlor or liquid chlorine or salt etc?

Click to expand...

It’s a commercial pool. Uses liquid chlorine. Just opened for the season. Chlorine feeder is off due to ruptured tubing, so added two gallons manually to raise chlorine.

At the time I took the readings yesterday, the acid feeder had been running and reading 7.2, so was not properly calibrated and had fed too much acid in.

It’s just odd to see the color change like that.

Enzodast said:

Is this causing all my troubles

Click to expand...

Dunno. Could be. Flip it around and see.

The good thing is it has unions that unscrew and it is not glued.

Have you added some pool grade DE to your sand filter to help the filtering?

Sand filters are the slowest to clear. Be patient.

ajw22 said:

Yes, it is installed backwards against the flow.

Water flows from the top pipe to the bottom pipe yet the flow arrow points up.

Click to expand...

Is this causing all my troubles

The internet didn't give up any information at all about it. Not showing on the Home Depot site. So kind of suspect. Some brands include a listing of the actual chemical compositions. If there is a manufacturer listed, you may be able to google their site, and get to the required MSDS info, that should give more details about how pure it really is, what else is in it, etc.

Totally 100% pure is VERY expensive (lab/food quality). Most (even pool stores) are between 84% and 97%. The remainder is mostly sodium chloride and other salts, residue from the refining process. Not to be confused with blends, that have a LOT of stuff we don't want added.

In my case, my community actually softens the water for all residents (!) Being vinyl, I usually don't care. But will be adding CH this year, so that I get the water perfect for the coming new heater warranty...at least initially.

Turbo1Ton said:

How much of that 6.5" bolt must be embedded in concrete? Is that 6.5" of embedded length or like 4" embedded with a 2.5" protrusion. If it is 6.5" embedded, you may be looking at cutting out sections of the decking and pouring a deeper base. The anchor gets its holding strength from being fully embedded into the substrate. In this case if the slab is only 4" thick, you effectively have a 4" anchor bolt.

--Jeff

Click to expand...

This is a good point. If it’s just a titan bolt, you probably only need a 4” bolt. If it’s an anchor then you need to size it to your slab thickness.

Enzodast said:

View attachment 644986also was this installed backwards?

Click to expand...

Yes, it is installed backwards against the flow.

Water flows from the top pipe to the bottom pipe yet the flow arrow points up.

Yeah, I just wanna get it up and running so think I’m gonna try some filter balls for now. And then give sand another try later in the season.

I read a suggestion to just let it run for a few hours and see if the pump would eventually just throw out what would be the smaller grains. I ran it for 6 hours overnight , now have a sand pit in the pool lol.

Just turned it on and sure enough still throwing out sand. Will be emptying it soon and will inspect laterals again just to make sure I didn’t miss anything.

Pas_pool said:

I am going off of what I have been told on here and on the pool math app to have it in the 60-90 range

Click to expand...

There seems to be no reason in your pool to force down your TA.

Keep your pH in the high 7s and your TA will come down naturally as you adjust your pH.

Pool chemistry is not simply about matching numbers. It helps to understand why you need certain levels and when it does not matter for your pools health.

If you do not have a “why” then don’t do unnecessary work.

My pool passed the overnight chlorine loss test. After the highest pollen output here in 50 years I had cleaned the pool, skimmer basket, screens and pump basket. But your comment made me think. I had not backwashed the sand filter. I did that after reading your post (algae clogging) and voila, no more problem. Thanks!

ajw22 said:

Why do you care about bringing down the TA?

Click to expand...

I am going off of what I have been told on here and on the pool math app to have it in the 60-90 range

How much of that 6.5" bolt must be embedded in concrete? Is that 6.5" of embedded length or like 4" embedded with a 2.5" protrusion. If it is 6.5" embedded, you may be looking at cutting out sections of the decking and pouring a deeper base. The anchor gets its holding strength from being fully embedded into the substrate. In this case if the slab is only 4" thick, you effectively have a 4" anchor bolt.

--Jeff

Enzodast said:

View attachment 644986also was this installed backwards?

Click to expand...

You have to give a better view if the heater to see which is the IN pipe and OUT pipe.