Let's call @Mdragger88 and @zea3 and see what they think...

Putting a third valve #2 between pump and filter would isolate the pump, allowing you to clear the basket. However, if the MPV has a "closed" position, this would be the same. If the new filter has a closed position, then you would only need the closed position on the MPV and on the skimmer (one diverter). That would isolate the pump.

The biggest risk to all of this is starting the pump the diverters/MPVs closed, dead heading the pump.

Did you check min/max speeds on the pump?

japoolspa said:

That's the most recent version so you're good there.
Did you check min/max speeds on the pump?
Any system alerts or errors?

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No alerts and everything has worked perfectly for years. System has literally been perfect until just recently. I tried deleting the app and reinstalling but maybe I should try that again. Should also note that when I try to change the speed on my Mac, it does the same thing as on the phone. Not sure if that helps at all.

You've got the idea. You'll likely end up buying more pipe than you need, even if they sell pretty short sections. Fittings are cheap. Get a spare coupler or two, and practice cutting and gluing with the spares and leftover so you know how it will go when you do it for real. The only hard part is if the pump can't move at all - then being 1/4" too long or short will be problematic. Some versions of couplers have a internal ring in the middle as a stop - so you have to account for that in your measuring. When assembling, push and twist the pipe into the fitting to get it to go full depth (to your mark, or a stop). Hold it tight for a bit - the pipe will want to push out of the fitting by itself until the glue grabs, making your planned length too long. Maybe not approved, but in a tight fit like yours may be, I undersize the length a bit (1/8") so I can get the final pieces in place and lined up, and allow that "push out" to make up the slight gap.

@81david you've got them the right way around

@Jimrahbe yes they relays get 24vdc once the 18 volt AC output from the transformer (which is more like 20/21 volts un-loaded) gets converted to DC through one of the bridge rectifiers toward the bottom right of the board. (Jim knows this but for others that might not - the 18vac output is used for the 24vdc relays because when you convert an AC voltage to DC through a bridge rectifier - which is a set of 4 interconnected diodes - and capacitors, the voltage is boosted a bit... so converting 18vac to dc gets you about 24, maybe a bit more without load)

TinFoilHat said:

The SWG will save you thousands of dollars in LC over the life of the unit. After the first cell dies down the road (after it has more than paid for itself) replacement cells have quicker paybacks. You have to play the long game with SWG. If you have no automation then a Circupool RJ 60 would be perfect for you. It is double the size of your pool which we recommend. You can usually get it from Discountsaltpools.com for a $10 upcharge from the RJ45. You will need to add a timer so that the SWG turns on AFTER the pump starts and turns off BEFORE the pump turns off so that the cell is not on without water flow. Easy peasy.

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Thank you, I really appreciate that advice! I think we are sold on the idea.

we have a timer on our main pump as well as on our pool sweep that uses a separate pump. I will research and learn more about those suggestions and see how I might be able to adapt it to our system.

On a side note, as we have algae (greenish / yellow?) starting to form on the east side of our pool wall, my thought is that it would be best to vacuum it off so it gets directly to the D.E. Filter and has less chance to spread rather than just brushing the algae to mix with the water and eventually it will get filtered. I just think vacuum would be the better way to go. I bought a brushed style pyramid looking vacuum with hose from a facebook seller for $25 and thought that might be the best immediate action to take along with adding the 3 ppm of LC each day. Does this sound good?

PoolStored said:

The filter is before the filter. Closing the MPV on the filter will not stop water from pouring out the pump basket if you open it.

If you have a valve (I recommend a diverter) before the filter you will be fine. A diverter before the return, not after the pump before the filter, would be better to totally isolate your filter and pump would be best.

If you have one after the pump, before the filter, if you have to clean the filter or replace sand, you cannot stop the flow through the filter.

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Okay yea that makes sense.
I've cancelled the order for the ball and got 2 Pentair diverters on order.

You're recommending 3 though, basically skimmer > pipe > valve #1 > pump > pipe > valve #2 > filter > pipe > valve #3 > return.
Am I getting it correct?

Welcome to TFP.

What does the Intex Installation Manual say?

JamesW said:

How much drop?

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Could be as much as 2.5 wc. What puzzles me is it worked like this the last few years and I only took over this pool last pool season so nothing would have changed other then a component within the heater, that's what my brain tells me. Yes, the meter on the house is tool small for all but when the pool season is on then the heat in the home is off and as I said before, it has been working flawlessly up to now.

Richie-Czech said:

I'm talking about closing the multiport on the filter to stop the water from the return pushing back into pump basket.

Basically if I have a valve before and right after pump and close them both to clean the basket, it should limit additional pool water from coming in the same as a single valve + mpv in "closed" would accomplish, unless I'm misunderstanding what the mpv is capable of doing

Click to expand...

The filter is before the filter. Closing the MPV on the filter will not stop water from pouring out the pump basket if you open it.

If you have a valve (I recommend a diverter) before the filter you will be fine. A diverter before the return, not after the pump before the filter, would be better to totally isolate your filter and pump would be best.

If you have one after the pump, before the filter, if you have to clean the filter or replace sand, you cannot stop the flow through the filter.

Welcome to TFP.

Say you have a solar heat system and that is the solar roof temperature sensor and it should display here…

PoolStored said:

Yes.

Post a picture of what you call a multiport. An MPV, or multiport valve is usually on a sand filter, which is AFTER the pump. So even if the multiport is closed, when you open the pump lid on an AGP, water will drain through the pump. I think we are just crossing paths on terminology Looks like you have a cartridge filter.

Maybe fill out your signature?

Create Your Signature - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

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Yes, my current setup is cartridge. That's all old stuff and is getting replaced this weekend.

I do mean multiport on the sand filter yes.
I'm talking about closing the multiport on the filter to stop the water from the return pushing back into pump basket.

Basically if I have a valve before and right after pump and close them both to clean the basket, it should limit additional pool water from coming in the same as a single valve + mpv in "closed" would accomplish, unless I'm misunderstanding what the mpv is capable of doing

Richie-Czech said:

By saying "medal" you're basically ranking them right?

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Yes.

Richie-Czech said:

And what I meant by the multiport, if it's in closed position then water from return shouldn't rush back into pump basket right?

Click to expand...

Post a picture of what you call a multiport. An MPV, or multiport valve is usually on a sand filter, which is AFTER the pump. So even if the multiport is closed, when you open the pump lid on an AGP, water will drain through the pump. I think we are just crossing paths on terminology Looks like you have a cartridge filter.

Maybe fill out your signature?

Welcome to TFP.


You should run the pump for a reason. Consider both speed and duration if you have a VS pump and automation. Reasons for running the pump can be:

• Mix chemicals: Low speed for 1/2 hour is fine for chlorine and acid additions. Salt, calcium, and stabilizer can require more circulation at higher speeds.
• SWG: Clean filter flow off speed + 200RPM, for whatever duration you need for the % output of the SWG.
• Filter: Low speed is better for filtering. Filter long enough so you are happy with the water.
• Skim: Run the lowest speed that get you sufficient skimming. Run for long enough to get the results you want.
• Heater: Run at the speed that gives you enough flow for the heater and run for the duration you need to heat.
• Vacuum: sufficient RPM to operate the vacuum for as long as necessary to clean satisfactorily.

Some of us with VS pumps and a SWG like to run our pump 24/7 at low speed and always add some chlorine to the water.

If you have an In Floor Cleaning Systems, your pump must run much longer at higher speeds.

PoolStored said:

Ball valves should never be put in pool plumbing.
Kaplans bronze metal, they are ok and can be replaced, but CMP diverters are the same price.
Stopper are bronze medal. They work, but are a pain vs. just move a diverter.
DIVERTERS are gold medal. They can be rebuilt. Jandy, Hayward, Pentair and CMP make gold medal diverters.
The filter, being "closed," when you open the pump lid will do nothing.
Get a good CMP valve for the suction side (between pool and pump), and another for the return (between filter and pool).
Put Unions on the the input to the pump and return from the filter.

Click to expand...

By saying "medal" you're basically ranking them right?
The Kaplans are very well rated hence why I was looking at them.

And what I meant by the multiport, if it's in closed position then water from return shouldn't rush back into pump basket right?

What is your pH and TA before you adjust it?

Why do you need to raise the pH?

What is lowering your pH?

What chemical is in your pH UP?

How are you chlorinating?

Kaptain said:

You know one thing I did not do last night was closed the chlorinator valve. Not sure how it effects the over night test but

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Yikes! Great catch. Likely doesn't matter at this point, we are just trying to keep about 3-5FC in the pool with no CYA to stave off algae growth until you get your kit. No worries...but you are catching on!

Kaptain said:

Day 2 and I have FC of 5 and TC of 7.5 I'll report back in the morning. I turned off my chlorinator this evening as well

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From the DPD? Great. All we are trying to do is keep the algae at bay until your kit arrives.
Just add chlorine for the moment. The fact that you are holding chlorine is good. That means no ammonia.
You are autopilot until the kit arrives.

Richie-Czech said:

The question I have is should I even bother with valves?
If I need to isolate the system, I use the rubber stoppers.
The only valve I can think would be useful would be between skimmer and pump to easily clean out pump basket. But the filter itself has a "closed" on the multiport, so that's basically a ball valve.

Looking at Kaplan 2" valve. They're $40/ea so wanting to make sure I'll actually need 2?

Click to expand...

Ball valves should never be put in pool plumbing.
Kaplans bronze metal, they are ok and can be replaced, but CMP diverters are the same price.
Stopper are bronze medal. They work, but are a pain vs. just move a diverter.
DIVERTERS are gold medal. They can be rebuilt. Jandy, Hayward, Pentair and CMP make gold medal diverters.
The filter, being "closed," when you open the pump lid will do nothing.
Get a good CMP valve for the suction side (between pool and pump), and another for the return (between filter and pool).
Put Unions on the the input to the pump and return from the filter.

Day 2 and I have FC of 5 and TC of 7.5 I'll report back in the morning. I turned off my chlorinator this evening as well

PoolStored said:

Great, we lost some chlorine overnight, not sure how much. Great job.

1. Get pool math if you don't have it. Link-->PoolMath
2. Configure your pool in pool math, use the same login/pw as TFP and enable sharing the in gear menu (upper right).
3. Get 15 gallons of liquid chlorine. Walmart has Pool Essentials liquid chlorine.
4. Use pool math to determine how much Liquid to add 3ppm.
5. Add 3ppm of liquid chlorine per DAY until your kit arrives. nothing else.
6. When your kit arrives, post a full set of results. FC, CC, pH, TA, CH, CYA.
7. Then we SLAM. Link-->SLAM Process

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You know one thing I did not do last night was closed the chlorinator valve. Not sure how it effects the over night test but

Show us pictures of the remote and the antenna.

My guess is the antenna in the wireless receiver has deteriorated. They are replaceable. You need to open up the wireless receiver and see if the antenna is plugged into the PCB or soldered.

Make sure you check the other union as well. The one pictured looks like it's cracked on the outside as well.

I probably don't have to tell you this, but when you work on the suction side, remove the union on the top so you can move the pump out of the way to make the repairs.

Newdude said:

Yes it's like bleaching something with chlorine if it is going to bleach or melt the liner. It'll happen pretty quick if it’s going to happen and won't happen after the fact if it’s brushed and dissolved.

Cold water takes longer and so does poor circulation.

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Was out for the last half hour mixing the bottom up, better than it was but still some granules on the bottom. Water is also 69.8F so I know that ain’t helping lol. I have been unplugging the pump at night but I think I’m gonna keep it going for tonight.

Tom, @ogdento

Do the relay coils not get about 28 Volts DC??? If so, there must be a power supply chip in there somewhere???

But.. I agree the next step should be testing the three AC voltages from the Transformer..

Thanks,

Jim R.

Thanks so much! Had the same issue with a Max-E-Therm 400 and since the system was taken out of service mode around the same time as when I did the firmware upgrade, I didn't realize this was the cause of the heater not operating when out of service mode. Deleted the Max-E-Therm heater entry and created a new "Gas Heater" entry, went back and enabled it for the pool/spa, and the heat kicked right on.

NaCLTPool said:

FYI, It’s back up

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Can't log in either...