Thank you so much for your quick response. I unfortunately do not have either test kit but I did order the tf-100, it should be here Saturday. Until then what should I do? I run the filter 24/7. Should I start to vacuum to waste and add water or wait to know levels ? Ugh so frustrated with myself for just dumping all that Crud in.

Welcome aboard! Your concern about phosphates means you've been to a pool store (we basically don't worry about phosphates.) We recommend you stay out of the pool stores and test and maintain your pool yourself. It's really very easy when you follow the simple TFP guidelines. Your primary chemicals will be liquid chlorine instead of pucks and muriatic acid in small quantities. Please read the following links.
Pool Care Basics
Test Kits Compared
FC/CYA Levels
PoolMath

ajw22 said:

What is your pH and TA before you adjust it?

Why do you need to raise the pH?

What is lowering your pH?

What chemical is in your pH UP?

How are you chlorinating?

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pH is about 7.0 before I add PH up.
TA is 70

As for why --the recommended amount appears to be 7.4-7.8?

I'm not sure what's lowering it.

It's a liquid PH up

Liquid chlorine

I would drain it and start over following the guidelines recommended here on TFP.
Pool Care Basics
Test Kits Compared
FC/CYA Levels
PoolMath

Gnarbrah said:

Now what? Turn SWG back on and keep an eye on FC? At what level do I check CYA again?

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Newdude said:

Get a good test in blazing sun mid day. (At the first chance). I want to double check @PoolStored agrees before we act, but I'd raise my CYA to SWG levels.

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I'd get CYA to 60, until you can demonstrate that you can maintain FC. That way if you do have to SLAM again, it won't be as bad as doing it at 70 or 80.
Couple of months of consistently maintaining your FC at the top of the range, then to to 70.

It’s funny how people draw on their own experiences in decision making. I had to go back and re-read the OP to pick up on the winterized status. I paid absolutely zero attention to that fact because given where I live, I have never had to winterize a thing in my life.

I was much more concerned with something physically blocking the impellers rotation. My personal story includes a pump with a couple of palm tree seeds stuck in it. I don’t suppose OP has many palms in Dayton….

Welcome to TFP! Unfortunately, everything you've done thus far is probably hurting you. Tabs, algaecides, and shock products will not kill and remove algae. That can only be done with the proper amount of liquid chlorine and it must be balanced to the stabilizer level (CYA) accordingly. We follow the SLAM Process to kill/remove algae.

But now you may have other issues with the products you've added. The remedy is proper at-home water testing. Do you have a TF-100/Pro-Series test kit? A Taylor K-2006C kit perhaps? If not, you really must get one of those first. Everything you do, and the advice received here at TFP, is based on accurate numbers from one of those kits.

Keep in mind that if your water is complicated by algaecides that have copper or a high CYA level, a water exchange to some degree may be your best and first option. But with a full set of accurate water test results we can help.

Depends on the price difference. Larger will be quieter and save a bit on electricity, but the biggest benefit is VSP over single speed.

Welcome to TFP! Be sure to bookmark our Pool Care Basics for LOTS of great info.

sequestrant works in your pool by keeping solids in solution. The contaminants are still there in your pool, you just can't see them.

So if what you are seeing is inorganic, you need to add more sequestrant to make them return to solution but even better may be to capture and remove them with polyfill

Thank you. Yes it is 100% level everywhere (I checked!) That's good to know, it means I can just crack on with installation

Hi, I still can't find where to connect the 2 wires to the H400IDL. I don't see it in the diagram. Please help

Thanks

dosmom said:

Any thoughts on if this is a bad display or board?

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Maybe a bad display board or main board.

Hard to tell for sure.

Maybe some pictures of both would be helpful.

Gnarbrah said:

Won’t be able to test in the middle of the day until Saturday unfortunately

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It is what it is and we get it.

Gnarbrah said:

I’ll assume with an FC of 16 this morning it should hold until I get home this afternoon

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I'm almost positive you won't be hitting minimum FC also.

Gnarbrah said:

I’ll check it then and see what my level is

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Get it at dark for the baseline (being comfortable its still way above min), run the SWG at a high% until morning and see what it made.

Gnarbrah said:

I guess I’ll just stick with LC until the weekend when I can get the readings I need?

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Id squeeze whatever the cell would make for less jug lugging. No matter how many, id rather lug half the jugs than all of them. Plus, you already paid for the SWG FC so use it. Supplement if needed.

PoolStored said:

Let's call @Mdragger88 and @zea3 and see what they think...

Putting a third valve #2 between pump and filter would isolate the pump, allowing you to clear the basket. However, if the MPV has a "closed" position, this would be the same. If the new filter has a closed position, then you would only need the closed position on the MPV and on the skimmer (one diverter). That would isolate the pump.

The biggest risk to all of this is starting the pump the diverters/MPVs closed, dead heading the pump.

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Okay, I think we are finally on the same page. Sorry, 12am posting might have contributed to potential confusion.

Of course to clean the pump basket, I need to stop flow from both sides, i.e. from skimmer to pump (valve #1) and from return to the pump basket on the other side of the pump. For this I was going to use to use the "closed" position of the MPV, effectively stopping flow from return side.
I'm trying to get away with only necessary valves. To clean the basket, I do need valve #1 so I don't have to climb on the deck to put the stopper in the skimmer. And the close it from the other side via MPV.

If I do need to do bigger maintenance to the filter, then I don't mind climbing up and plugging the return with a stopper.

I think to keep it simple, valve #1 very necessary from convenience standpoint. Valve #2 likely overkill. Valve #3 would be nice, but also can be substituted with stopped. And of course being very careful not starting pump with valves closed/stoppers in place.

Unless the others suggest throwing valves #2 and #3 in anyway, I won't.

Won’t be able to test in the middle of the day until Saturday unfortunately. If I’d just hurry up and win the lottery I wouldn’t have this “work” thing getting in the way of stuff I want to do! I’ll assume with an FC of 16 this morning it should hold until I get home this afternoon. I’ll check it then and see what my level is. I guess I’ll just stick with LC until the weekend when I can get the readings I need?

Lake Placid said:

Wouldn’t a proper overnight gain test (now that we know OP is clean) solidify if the SWG is running at full steam - or is a racehorse with a sprained leg that may need to be replaced?

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It is certainly a way to skin the cat.

It will however be available to test sooner (tonight) versus waiting a couple days for the FC to fall. So thats 2 votes for overnight gain test with a set block of hours (9?).

Newdude said:

We've been splitting duties here and 'too many cooks' and whatnot.

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Sounds like we need another chef….. Wouldn’t a proper overnight gain test (now that we know OP is clean) solidify if the SWG is running at full steam - or is a racehorse with a sprained leg that may need to be replaced?

Welcome!

Folks, let's congratulate @Webster (Post #4) for being voted as this month's TFP ("Cannonball" - Family Fun) Pool of the Month. @Webster , you have to tell us more about all the fun going on there. Looks great.

Check back and we'll do this again next month.

@Webster , be on the lookout for your $50 discount code from tfteskits.net.

Gnarbrah said:

16.5 to 16 FC, CC is 0 and water is clear. Guess that means SLAM is done?

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It does. Well done.

Gnarbrah said:

Now what? Turn SWG back on and keep an eye on FC?

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Let the FC fall back closer to target range. Turn the SWG on at high target (ish). Mess around and find out with lots of wiggle room to minimum

Gnarbrah said:

At what level do I check CYA again?

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Get a good test in blazing sun mid day. (At the first chance). I want to double check @PoolStored agrees before we act, but I'd raise my CYA to SWG levels. We've been splitting duties here and 'too many cooks' and whatnot. Lol. Anywho, Its plenty warm by you and you're going to stay SWG even if this one is toast.

At worst it helps the half producing SWG until you get a new one. At best the SWG is fine and you need to be at regular season levels anyway.

Ok - big day! Last night had FC of 16.5 and this morning was 16
CC is 0 and water is clear. Guess that means SLAM is done?
Now what? Turn SWG back on and keep an eye on FC? At what level do I check CYA again?
Once I’m back in the normal zone I guess then I’ll know if my SWG is keeping up?

The spillway stone is 25 inches wide. The pool and spa are on the same water circulation. When the spa is on the circulation is within the spa only and doesn’t run over the edge.
It was suggested that we have a new stone cut where the top would be a small bullnose and underneath would be square. We would have the stone ( 1.5 inches thick granite) extend over the pool side 3.5 inches. Underneath the stone - 2 inches a way from the dam wall, we would put a capillary cut - so the water does not roll back but down.
We were also advised to set the stone pitched backward slightly toward the spa water at a rate of slope 1/4 inch per foot. Any thoughts before we proceed? We are going to tile the Dam wall first to make sure we are getting the stone overhang correct.