Help Please - Aux Relays Not Working

Thanks @Jimrahbe for the detailed step by step guide I appreciate it.

Checked voltages of all three relays all have 120v at the line side. Flipped all three on one by one and tested the load side all of which have no voltage showing (0.11 or so).

Aux 1 is pool lights
Aux 2 is spa lights
Aux 3 is blower for spa

4 other relays have nothing coming in and no power to them from the breakers.

The “dip switches” I was referring to are the two ULN2803 relay driver Chips on the main board. They were $7 on Amazon for 10 of them and same night I had the issue there was lightning in the distance and some neighbors were talking about power surges. I took a shot here I know.

Here is a picture of inside my panel as well. Bunch of ants in there but do not see any frayed wires or burn marks on anything.

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SAND FILTER DEEP CLEANING QUESTION

SAND FILTER DEEP CLEANING QUESTION

I have never done a deep clean (honestly didn't know i should be every year) my question is what is the best way to do this ? i've seen some use a filter degreaser that they put in the skimmer basket then run it into the filter and let it sit an hour and then i have also seen people take the top off of the filter and put a hose in and let the water run until clear ----which is the best course of action and also I have the dryden media glass instead of sand in my filter

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Hayward variable speed pump question

Get a meter out and check to see if the pump has power. As ajw22 stated the pumps display panel may be blank because it's disconnected. If the pump has no power, check the relay to see if there is power going in and out of it. If the pump has power than it is not getting a signal from the RS485 cable to run. Check to see if the controller is getting power. If you need to run the pump disconnect the controller and connect the panel on the pump and use that to manually run the pump. You may need do some wiring to get constant power to the pump.

Did AA treatment, do I need to use Polyfill?

Post a full set of current test results using your TF-Pro test kit.

FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA
Salt
Water temperature

If you did an ascorbic acid trearment and then didn't do a full drain/refill, you will need to continue adding the sequestrant to keep the iron in solution - otherwise the iron will redeposit on the pool surface.

Small particles floating on the pool surface are settling out of the air.

Main filter pump breaker tripped

Disconnect the pump or SWG and see if the breaker still trips when only one is connected. As state above also connecting the pump and SWG to a different breaker if one is available is a good test to see what component the problem follows. Also check the connections to make sure they are all tight. Most likely the breaker is the issue. If you had a lot of rain and the pump is exposed there is a chance water got in it and is causing a current leak to ground or the bonding wire.

Omnilogic options ?

Hi Everyone,

I have a 5 year old Omnilogic controller - which I normally love - which is now dead. Back in August we had what I can only assume was a lightning strike (thunderstorms went through and the Omni had no display). I spent $2500 to repair it, including replacing the MSP module and a power supply board. I also added a $400 Siemens surge protector to the panel to prevent it from happening again. When we winterized, we left the breaker off.

Today the guys opened the pool, and the Omni came up briefly (long enough for me to get an email about needing an update) and then it died. The guys said they were going to call out their automation guy to look at it (he's coming on Friday). When I looked, I turned on the breaker and within about 2 minutes I could smell burning electronics. I opened it up (thinking there may be a literal fire) and narrowed the burning to the big power supply in the upper right. (at least I think so)

Anyway - I really don't want to put more money into this thing. I'm frustrated.

Does anyone know if there is a substitute automation system I could install, ideally while using the existing Omnilogic "can" so I don't have to have an electrician re-wire everything? Maybe a different less powerful Hayward controller that would fit in there? I honestly don't have much - VS Pump, booster pump for polaris, salt cell, 1 valve for water feature, led lights and a heat pump. I also am a home automation guy, so I'm cool rolling my own automation with Z-Wave relays if needed. Also am comfortable doing both line voltage and low voltage wiring.

Any creative ideas? I'm tired of keeping my pool guy's BMW shiny. (LOL). Thanks all!
PS: or even a way I could buy Omnilogic parts direct and install myself?

Help with high CYA

It’s my parents pool and they don’t want to spend $100 on a test kit.
I wouldn't spend one penny or waste one ounce of effort with poor data. On any subject.
I’m guessing it’s not safe to shut down the skimmer valve and just use the main drain and set the filter to waste?
If doing an exchange then its fine because the water level will remain roughly the same. (Providing youre checking that the in and out flows stay about matched)

Help with high CYA

Replacing water is the only way to lower CYA.
Read "No Drain Water Exchange" here:
Ok read this and I hadn’t considered that I would need to buy another pump. I’m guessing it’s not safe to shut down the skimmer valve and just use the main drain and set the filter to waste?

air leak repair

Does your pump prime and run with a full basket?
Are there any visible leaks?
Does you pool maintain water Level?

If the answers to Yes, No, and Yes. Then you are likely just fine.
When I move my multiport, with pump off for example, I get air too. I'm not going to rebuilt it until it fails.
Yup, that's my answers.

I read the link you mentioned in your other post and wanted to make sure I understood. Air in the system is only from the suction side? So anything past the pump only will cause water leak? I dont think I get how that works. But I dont have any water leaks that I know of.

In that case, the one thing that stands out in my mind is the chlorinator line I have connected from suction line to the pump output line when I stopped using the chlorinator. I will hopefully get the plugs for that delivered in a few days.

Also the main thing that bothers me is DE leaking into the pool. Not sure if there are other issues with an air leak as my pump primes and runs just fine without any air leaks after a couple of minutes of running.

Filter