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Pentair Valve Actuator Acting Reversed

R
I agree with what you both are saying. I'm in technology and there are a ton of hacks at all levels, layers, and industries. It's amazing how some products are released with subpar designs, CMP waterfalls are one of them -- lol. I ended up cutting off the rock trap bottom to attach a ball valve for easy winterization because I've had 1 waterfall rock trap burst open 2x now after the pool builder has winterized it. Last year I watched them pour the antifreeze in the lines, but the way the rock trap is designed I highly doubt the antifreeze is getting there.

The knowledge people pour out on these threads is fascinating to me, and I want to jump into it to learn and understand it more. My son has said he wants to be a pool builder now for 2 years (he's 6). He's been my little helper with everything we are learning and trying. Next item on the list is potentially changing up some of the plumbing and valves where the pool equipment is because I can't operate the pool how I would like to, i.e., run the deck jets and bubblers at the same time or even deck jets and pool jets. Also wanting to install a hard lined backwash drain for the sand filter - that hose annoys me! After I get through those pieces I'm going to take on some of the automation upgrades.
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Solar cover differences

PoolStored
UV is the largest contributor to cover damage. (especially without protection when OFF the pool).
UV is the largest contributor to FC loss.
Blue covers block more UV rays than clear covers.
Clear covers are the most effective at heating because they allow nearly all UV rays to pass through, directly warming the pool water...at the cost of increase FC demand.
Evaporation heat loss will be practically the same.
SLAM level FC or below will not damage cover.
2-3 year replacement is typical.
8mil vs. 16 mil doesn't matter for cover damage or heat loss.

Go blue. 8 or 12mil (16 is hard to handle with no benefit)
You will get no warranty benefit. Show me anybody that has made a successful warranty claim with 7 year warranty.

I've accepted 3 year life from a $200 cover (12mil).
YMMV.
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J
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Pressure Testing

P
PoolStored said:
This is your biggest clue. If this dropped to this level, but did not drop in the skimmers, it is not plumbing. It is likely the seals around the skimmer plates.
I don't thing you need pressure testing, unless the skimmers drained also...maybe but not likely.
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I went back to my messages with the diving company who patched the pinholes. Essentially, they repaired on a Monday October 14, and by Friday October 18, the water level had fallen the width of an entire faceplate screw (pictures below, the one at night was the after photo). The diver did mention it could be a gasket and to keep an eye on the water. Around November 10, I saw that one of the skimmers was bone dry, with no water at all (picture attached). The other skimmer did still have a very low level of water in it. At this point, I contacted the company who does my opening and closing and they said that a gasket repair could be tricky as my liner was old and brittle, therefore I'd have to sign a waiver if I wanted the gasket to be replaced incase anything went wrong with the liner. That is why they recommended getting pressure tested.

I was extremely overwhelmed and busy so I let the situation be. In March, I started having companies come out for liner quotes. I also had my looploc solid cover with drains fail on me, and I replaced it with a new looploc solid cover w/no drains. When my cover ripped in February, there was water in both skimmers, I assume due to the mesh letting the water in. However, ever since getting a solid cover, I kept an eye on the water level in the skimmer and saw that it has not gone down at all. Overall I feel really confused by all these different clues.
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RayPak Outdoor Stack Kit or Pagoda

1
bjsbuds said:
Just had a Raypak Bronze ASME 266 heater installed to replace my rusted out Raypak. Purchased unit from an individual that did not install it. I hired a local HVAC company that specializes in Hayward equipment. The Raypak came with an Outdoor Stack 009835. The guys that installed it said the stack was missing a top and that rain and leaves would get inside. They called the manager who said it does not need a top. I have searched as much as I can and cannot find anything about if it should have a top. I haven't tried to remove it yet and see if the Pagoda from my old Raypak 266 would fit this new unit. Does anyone have an Outdoor Stack that can tell me if it does or does not have a top? You can see that they placed the heater on top of some of the PVC and fountain valve. :(

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Being that close to those bushes, you need the outdoor stack.
RayPak outdoor stack:
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RayPak indoor stack (draft hood):
1746590170713.png
One has a coating, one doesn't.
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Hayward variable speed pump question

1
JimWilson said:
The CB is turned on. and I only have the one screen on the controller pad. I am guessing here but I assume when I turn on the pump or filter using the controller pad it triggering a relay that powers the pump. So Do I need to bypass that relay somehow temperary
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JimWilson said:
The CB is turned on. and I only have the one screen on the controller pad. I am guessing here but I assume when I turn on the pump or filter using the controller pad it triggering a relay that powers the pump. So Do I need to bypass that relay somehow temperary
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In the menu on the pump, get to "standalone" and you will have control over the pump if there is power to it and no other damage. The pump should have constant power, it is not controlled by a relay.
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Proper check valve for elevated Spa.

1
9mile said:
I want to keep my elevated Spa from draining when the pump is off. Got one of the Pentair check valves and it has small holes in the flap. I assume this would not be the kind I am looking for. Also looking for check valves for my blower system and assume I don't want the holes in those as well. Please help me with best option for check valve that doesn't allow bleed through of water.
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Blowers should come with the proper check valve, either built-in or separate. Those "holes
in the Pentair valve should not go completely through.
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PoolStored
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Pressure Testing

PoolStored
poolboyK said:
mid skimmer to the level of the lowest screws on the face plate
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This is your biggest clue. If this dropped to this level, but did not drop in the skimmers, it is not plumbing. It is likely the seals around the skimmer plates.
I don't thing you need pressure testing, unless the skimmers drained also...maybe but not likely.
poolboyK said:
about 15 years old
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This is VERY good run for a liner. The skimmer plate seals have just failed.
You have a couple choices. You could have someone come and replace the seals on the skimmers and be good until July.
Or, let it run to July. The risk of running to July is just the water loss, any erosion under the deck due to the water, and damage to the liner walls.

I'd get the liner replaced and make sure proper seals are installed on the skimmers. If you still have a leak, then go to a detection service.
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Pentair versus jandy

setsailsoon
For some reason most contractors seem to push Jandy. But so do authorized contractors for all 3 major brands. I think (my guess) is that more are authorized by Jandy for some reason. I've installed and used both. Pentair is hands down superior. But if you have a very simple pool there's not much difference. If you're looking to do more complex control to start with or are going to add more complex control in the future Pentair should be the answer. I'd think carefully about what you want in terms of functionality. Then bid both. If it's close error on Pentair. I'm not as biased as Jim for Pentair but I certainly see some quality differences in their high end pumps and the sophistication for their controls. What does this mean? Well for example if you have a solar heater there are adjustments you can make to the Intellicenter controller to make it react differently to temperature difference on the solar panel that you can't do with anything else. There are other examples. Also they have incorporated much more of a modular approach so instead of buying a whole new system you can buy modules that are not as costly. But if you don't ever need and of this it's easy to argue Jandy is just as functional at what's often a lower price. Like many things pool there's not a universal best brand. Your preferences and plans drive the best answer for you.

I hope this is helpful.

Chris
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sacrificial anode for auto cover tracks in swg pool

bradgray
Not really clear why the auto cover tracks are your priority. Tracks are easily replaced inside the encapsulation if they get damaged. Anode won't protect these - they aren't submerged in the pool water unless you have a negative-edge pool.

A sacrificial anode will be placed in the plumbing bathed in the return flow between filter and heater. The theory is that water will seek to correct an imbalance by stealing the soft zinc before it robs other precious metals from your pool and peripherals.

You should view the device differently, however.
It is not a shield, but rather a canary.
You will have visual symptoms of corrosive behavior acutely or cumulatively by watching the anode.
This will then alert you to a blindspot in your maintenance and prompt corrective action before expenses increase.
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Pressure Testing

P
Hi, I have a 20x40 inground vinyl pool. This past summer, I realized that we may have a leak. About every 1.5 weeks, I would see the water level fall from mid skimmer to the level of the lowest screws on the face plate, necessitating dropping a hose in to get it up. Around last September before we closed, we had a leak detection company out. They found numerous pinholes in our liner (about 15 years old, we bought the house in 2020). The pump was still on after the repair, but I did see the water level drop. It was closing time so we said we would investigate later. The last month or so I've been checking the level and it hasn't fallen while the pool has remain closed, so I assume if it only drops when the pool is running, it may be the plumbing.

The leak detection company had told us they don't plumbing tests and that we'd need a pressure test. I scheduled one with my pool company, but upon asking what the remedy would be if a leak was detected in the line, they stated they would replace the entire line. I tried asking why they couldn't just repair the area where it was leaking and they said that when they first started, they did it this way but it was tedious and that if a leak was in one part of the line, it's possible another part could be faulty too. I expressed concern that I'm not sure I can afford a full line replacement, and they tried to assure me it won't be bad if needed. I am also getting my liner replaced this summer by a builder who has really good reviews, and that company also said they do not individually repair the area if a leak is found.

1. Is this standard procedure? Ive seen so many videos where leaks in plumbing lines are repaired wherever the leak is. I'm in Long Island NY. Or should I look for a company who will be willing to find a leak and repair the leak in the plumbing instead of replacing the entire line.
2. Would you have the company replacing pool liner do the pressure test? I won't be getting the liner until July, but am opening in mid May, so I was thinking perhaps the company who opens and closes for me can do it when they open (this company doesn't install liners).
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