Yeah, turn it off, and let FC come back down into range for your CYA. Link-->FC/CYA Levels
Then turn it back on.
In the future, tell them you want a "no chemical" opening at a reduced cost.
You can handle startup.

Good luck with your project. Keep us posted as it progresses.
It is a good start using a SWCG as that will make it easier to manage the chemicals. Be sure to get get a good test kit and get the salt kit with it. The TF Pro with Salt is good value but review the following
Test Kits Compared

You will need to have some muractic acid on hand as well as salt to add to the pool. When you get a test kit, test your tap water or whatever water you plan to use to fill the pool. Post those for feedback.

Also check out the PoolMath app. it is an easy app to track your test data as well as guide you on what and how much chemicals to add when needed.

Was it left out over winter? Wonder if it could be freeze damage separation...

History on this. Rodents have been around for sure. Evidenced by the bottom of the insulation under the heat exchanger disappearing and some previous nests. The transformer had previously failed. It wasn’t initially showing any power to the heater board and no power output from the transformer. Also didn’t ohm out correctly. So I replaced it. This failure happened over 3 years ago. Transformer blew, blower replaced, new oem heater board replaced. Heater worked 3 times then the no power failure occurred. Waited three years since, and then the manifold housing started leaking so I replaced the manifold and orings. Heat exchanger inlet pipes still look good. Then attempting to repair this current issue. Another new transformer, new heater board. So it has been an idiots Journey. I truly hope I am surrounded by geniuses because this is getting expensive. Lol

Well - my brain does not seem to be firing on all cylinders.
The goo is called "Pool Lube" for a reason. If you coat a stopper with it, the stopper doesn't stop - it just slides out of the pipe the more you tighten it. I did find that the valve does leak a bit of water too - a little flow pushed the stopper completely out.
Naptha does an OK job of removing the goo (PTFE kind). A bazillion tight wraps of tape around the pipe/stopper did not change the small air leak. So perhaps it is someplace else, also. Time to take off the lid, and check that seal along with the relief valve. Thanks for the tip.

But the temp has dropped, and it is now 45 outside, so that will be a tomorrow project.

sorpasorpa said:

I see what you mean. For some reason I was thinking the meters would be calibrated to account for their own resistance and give you a reading without that but that wouldn't make sense.

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Why would you want or need to know the flow at each return? Unless each line was valved individually it would be information only and could serve no purpose other than satisfying curiosity or drive you crazy trying to do something about "unbalanced" flow.

Hi guys:

Salt 2500/3000 (surprised that the pool store read was 1000)
FC 22 (yesterday they added a gallon of liquid chlorine to shock)
Calcium 175
Total alkalinity 60 (affected by high chlorine)
CYA 50
PH 7.5

Pool look crystal clear.
Should i switch of swcg?
Any other suggestions?

THANKS

I have the Cascade effect not the Rain effect. As I look at the Jandy catalog, the drawing of the Sheer Arc Rain Waterfall appears to match my fixture exactly (just mounted upside down), but the Sheer Arc Cascade drawing does not appear to have the same extension at the end so it doesn't match exactly (if the drawing is accurate). Both drawings are attached. If the drawing of the Sheer Arc Cascade is not completely accurate, then I agree with you that this is the waterfall I have. I sent an email to Jandy asking them to identify this waterfall. We'll see. In the meantime I might just order the one you found and see what it looks like.

Welcome to TFP.
Please read
Pool Care Basics

Also, please purchase a good test kit to manage your pool properly
Test Kits Compared

Other than how much storage of propane you want the other thing that determines the minimum size of the tank is the maximum rate of propane usage. The tank needs to be large enough to absorb heat fast enough from the air or ground (if it's buried) to boil the liquid propane in the tank to a gas. In the warmer month this is rarely ever an issue unless a tank is grossly undersized. In the cold months, it's much more of an issue. The boiling point is low and the heat of vaporization is a decent. Once you get below freezing the air doesn't have many BTU's in it.

techman65 said:

Here are a couple pics of the pump motor.

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Yes, water leaking. That's what caused that "white" corrosion at the front of the motor. It was leaking to the interior of the motor and not dripping to the outside. That white residue is always a leaking seal.

MichiganBruce said:

I just found this in a Jandy catalog. It sure looks like my waterfall, just flipped over and incorrectly installed.

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Did you have the "rain" effect or a "sheer?" The sheer is available here according to the website:

Welcome to TFP!!!

The target for FC is based on your CYA level. Without CYA, recommended FC level is 1-3.
Your FC, without CYA in the water, will get consumed by UV VERY quickly.
That is why low target and your FC is going away.

Read this whole article for more. Link-->FC/CYA Levels

Boric acid is not one of the parameters that TFP tests for. Why are you using it? No harm but it normally is not at all needed.

I don't use strips.

Read the test process here:

Review the SLAM article. You are not doing it correctly. You need to add enough chlorine to get back to 16 ppm each time you test. The article will also teach you when you are finished with the SLAM.

Katodude said:

+1 on bigger is better. I have a 250 gallon buried tank and I wish it was bigger.

Not just that you can buy when propane is cheaper, but there is a fill charge every time they come. Around here that is $30-$40. So having to fill less often is valuable too.

Buy once cry once.

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According to the guy I just talked to, about 5-6k for 250, 7-8k for 500. Lots of money but I can use it for future remodel with appliances and water heaters. That includes dig, permit and pipe to where I want, regulators and $2.20g for the introductory fill. More than what I want to spend for sure. Will think about it.

Hi, got new pool, can't wait to learn.