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Mystery of Sediment Upon Opening

Newdude
poolboy234 said:
Question being why if chlorine was killing the algae causing it to settle at the bottom of the pool that this does NOT happen when the pool is not open and the pump isn't running?"
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It may not have been mixed well enough or 0 FC rain runoff sat there festering until your next chlorine add / mixing. Im not saying it has to be algae, just that it usually is and the OCLT (which you're doing (y)) is the first step for all filtering or sediment issues.

It could also be pollen which is now being stirred up when it wasn't, which just so happens to hit about the time you feel you should open. It would also explain why it goes away on its own in a few weeks, with no other effort devoted to it.

If the pipes are expelling organics you will fail the OCLT. (Slam will probably fix it)

If the pool has algae you will fail the OCLT (slam definitely will fix it)

Or its pollen and we wait it out.
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Pentair Mastertemp 250 will not stay lit. It lights, but Shuts off after five seconds. Ignition Error message

J
With the Blower On, both ports are negative pressure (Vacuum or below atmospheric).

With the gas valve closed, the gas port has a more negative pressure than the vent port, which results in a positive reading even though both ports are vacuum.

This is because the gas port is closer to the blower impeller/fan.

This reading is not gas pressure.

With the gas valve open, the vent port has a more negative pressure than the gas port, which results in a negative reading even though both ports are vacuum.

This is caused by the gas pressure pushing the gas port pressure higher than the vent port pressure.

This is also not the actual gas pressure. It is a pressure differential between the gas port and the vent port.
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Blower On and Gas Valve Closed.

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Blower On and Gas Valve Open.

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J
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J
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Fiberglass Pool Chemistry

Texas Splash
Unless you have waterline tile or piece of equipment that mandates a minimum CH, you generally don't need to add calcium. The gelcoat doesn't have plaster properties, so any calcium is simply a small preventative measure to help against certain types of potential staining. The TFP recommended levels are just fine.

You can test it, but I suspect the chalkiness you are experiencing is probably not calcium. Some might classify it as related to oxidation, or perhaps just the effects of the gelcoat reacting to chlorinated water. It doesn't happen to all FG pools, but it is quite common. Below is my experience.

Fiberglass Discoloration (Faded & Chalky) - My Story

DISCLAIMER The following is a dialog of my own personal experience. Any processes used, chemically or otherwise, were performed strictly on my own without any recommendations from Trouble Free Pools. FUTURE POSTING I am trying to keep this thread streamlined with just my own progress for all...
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
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New liner, wrinkles and a leak

C
Last June I had an allegedly reputable pool company replace my liner. I had water under the liner so I had them install a drain tile all around my pool per their recommendations. I filled the pool and had no troubles until it quit raining in July and I noticed I was loosing water. I did the bucket test and confirmed I had a leak! Called the pool company, calls went unanswered for 2 weeks. They finally returned my call, came out and tightened all the bolts up on skimmers steps lights etc. Marked the water level, they came back a week later and said yup you have a leak! You find the leak we will come fix it. I was not happy with that answer but let it slide.
I closed the pool last September, lowered the water down to half way down the return.

Last week I decided to start checking the pool and pulled the winter cover back to have a peek see. The water dropped to about 1 1/2" below the top of the light over the winter. And of course since I have a water table problem anyway you guessed it! I have a brand new liner full of wrinkles! I contacted the company again and told them I found the leak, they said they will be in touch with me to arrange taking care of the leak.

Is there anyway to fix the wrinkles in the liner? Should I finish draining the pool and try to flatten the liner then refill? I am pretty certain that if the pool had remained full through the winter I would not have the wrinkles from the ground water?

So far I have not heard from the pool company. How long should I give them before I hire someone else? I stopped at the pool store Saturday. They took my information and said the service manager would be in touch.
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DIY-PoolAutomation-Pizero-FrankenAuto

P
DrewPool said:
I have been looking to do the same thing. What are you using for the rs-485 cable and connector?
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So I don’t think I’m going to use the rs485. But if I was and I did it all again, I would use the sequent Microsystems hat recommended by Kato. They have hats with multiple relays and rs485.
I am going to just use the digital input on the I/O. It’s something I know and can create my own interface.
Maybe on the next project I’ll try and pick apart nodejspoolcontroller. They have done all the heavy lifting because the Pentair modbus protocol isn’t public.
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Mystery of Sediment Upon Opening

Newdude
poolboy234 said:
I will absolutely run an OCLT, but assuming it isn't that, what would the other possibilities be?
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I hesitate to even say it because we have thousands and thousands of pools properly closed each year with zero pipe crud issues. But if your pipes were growing some kind of freakish crud, there is an ahhsome line cleaner that would expel it. Its typically used for baqua dosed pools.

We had someone use it last year with a white water mold problem similar to the baqua users, but it added some time of excessive FC demand while it cleaned the plumbing. Hopefully we get lucky and its just regular old algae.
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Pentair Mastertemp 250 will not stay lit. It lights, but Shuts off after five seconds. Ignition Error message

J
Since you are getting ignition, it is probably not an ignitor problem.

Most likely, it is low inlet gas pressure causing low manifold pressure, which causes low Flame Current.

Check Inlet gas pressure and address as needed.

If inlet is good and manifold is still low, increase gas pressure to make it read -0.2" w.c.

Once you get -0.2" w.c on manifold and there is still a problem, check Flame Current.
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Losing water in pool and spa.

D
Jimrahbe said:
Dave,

I 'assume' there is a pump that moves the water from the basin, back to the pool, along with a check valve of some type..

That would be my first guess... Got any pics of that??

Thanks,

Jim R.
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Jim, there are four drains in the basin as pictured. Not sure which drains return to the main pump (middle in pic) or the waterfall pump(right most in pic). The pump on the left is for the cleaner.
Last two pics are what I was calling the “flappers”. I believe those are what you’re calling the check valves. There is one on the supply side and one on the return side as noted in separate pics 3 and 4.
I just removed the flappers again and did find debris in the return side one. I also inspected the skimmer and main drain Jandy valves in pic #4. One was slightly worn so I replaced it.
I was losing quite a bit of water flowing to the basin from the pool so I was pumping it out of the basin with a submergable pump.
I appreciate your help. Dave
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TDS water tester - are these ok?

H
Donldson said:
What are you hoping to learn from knowing the TDS of your fill water?
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I'm looking into a inline fill RO system, which has a feed spec of 2500ppm max TDS


I'm in contact with the owner for a quote, and he asked me for this info
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J
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Pentair Mastertemp 250 will not stay lit. It lights, but Shuts off after five seconds. Ignition Error message

J
Flame Current Measurement.

Flame current is the current that passes through the flame from sensor to ground.

To measure flame current, connect a True RMS or analog DC micro-ammeter to the FC+ and FC- terminals.

Readings should be 1.0 µA DC or higher.

If the meter reads negative or below "0" on scale, meter leads are reversed.

Reconnect leads with proper polarity.

Alternately, a Digital Voltmeter may be used to measure DC voltage between FC+ and FC- terminals.

Each micro-amp of flame current produces 1.0 VDC.

For example, 2.6 VDC equates to 2.6 µA.
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Skimmer basket replacement surprise

Jmen
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Our skimmer baskets have become brittle and needed replacement after 25 years here. The bottom of the existing skimmers have marking “Model SP-1082, SP-1084” (bottom pic above)

A Hayward basket was found online indicating “Hayward Basket, Oem, Sp1082/1083/1084/1085/1086 Skimmer”, so a couple were ordered. However, what arrived had a round opening at the bottom of the basket. (Top pic above)

The opening appears to be for a perforated pipe “riser”. That’s fine, but the packaging did not include risers and I can’t seem to find them available separately online. Any suggestions where to order the skimmer risers separately, or what pipe fitting might allow me to create my own riser is appreciated.

Thank you,
Joe M in WV
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Jmen
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Jmen
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Pentair Mastertemp 250 will not stay lit. It lights, but Shuts off after five seconds. Ignition Error message

J
You can perform some diagnostics on it to see if it is heating, examine it visually, check its resistance, which should be 60 ohms +/- 20 ohms.

Check that 120V AC is going to the igniter when the heater starts.

A new igniter resistance is 40 to 80 ohms.

The igniter is about 450 watts, which is about 3.75 amps at 120 volts.

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Newdude
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