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Ok I am a blank page- we are getting a back yard pool for the first time- need as much advice as I can get

There will be a Heater, Pump and SWG. He also ran a separate bonding wire through the conduit. He is going to Bond everything together. I'm glad I ran across the need for Bonding, I feel 100% better about the installation now.
The bonding wire should not be in the same conduit with high voltage wires.

Low voltage and high voltage wires should not be mixed.

SWG Install and Opening Help

Cleaning brush arrived today and my brother in law is coming over to help me get the steps out. I'll give the steps and the ladder a good scrub. I back washed the filter yesterday and today as my flow started well and then got progressively slower throughout the day. I also vacuumed to waste a bunch of dead algae from the bottom of the pool, so I've had a hose running pretty much all day to try and replace the water. I think I'll retest my CYA during my next FC check because I think it's gone down from the back washing and hose filling and my last FC check I didn't have to add LC because my FC was still above SLAM level (I think because I added based on having a CYA of 50, but if it's lower now I probably added too much). Pool looks much better after vacuuming so hopefully tomorrow I'll be able to post updated pictures of the progress. Appreciate all the help and prompt responses so far. TFP rules.

Ok I am a blank page- we are getting a back yard pool for the first time- need as much advice as I can get

Grounding is for your electrical system. In normal operations, in a basic sense, electricity comes into a device on the hot wire, and leaves on the neutral (not really, but for these purposes the idea is just fine). The ground is there to provide an alternate return path should something go awry (such as a metal part coming in contact with a hot) allowing the fault to trip the breaker.

A bond connects two different conductors that would not otherwise be connected, so that they are at the same electrical potential. If you shuffle your feet across the carpet, you will built up an electric charge in your body - which in an of itself does nothing. But then you touch a metal doorknob and you get a shock. Why? Because you were at a higher potential than the knob, and when you touched it, the potential equalized. It had nothing to do with your household electric service. Now, if you took a piece of wire and connected it to the doorknob and held the other end in your hand, you could shuffle around on the carpet all day long, and when you touched the knob, you would not feel a shock, because you are BONDED to the knob. The bonding allows the electrical potential between you and the knob to remain equal.

To bond a pool, you connect everything in the area that can conduct electricity together with a wire. The metal pool wall, the earth, the water, the metal handrails, the metal pump housing, etc. These things can build up different electrical potentials, just like your hand and the doorknob. However, in some cases, the difference in potential can be quite large (usually because of a problem with the electric service in your area). The earth could be a high potential and the pool water at a low potential (because they are not connected, the water is in a big vinyl bag) but you can walk on the ground with no problem. But then while standing on the ground you stick your hand in the pool, and you get zapped, just like the doorknob, but bigger. Bonding connects all of these things together, so that they all become the same potential and you do not get a shock when bridging between two (of more) of them.
What a great explanation! Thank you! My electrician came out yesterday. I rented a POJ Trencher, it was a beast! An old beast, but I was able to get the trench dug.
He is running wires through conduit to my storage building, there is going to be a seperate box on the building and separate hook-ups.
There will be a Heater, Pump and SWG. He also ran a separate bonding wire through the conduit. He is going to Bond everything together. I'm glad I ran across the need for Bonding, I feel 100% better about the installation now.
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Impeller and diffuser wear?

Intelliflo 2VST, last season I noticed reduced pressure on my filter, normal is about 10, but was reading 5-ish.
I was also experiencing an HL2 code on my Raypac heater.
After reading many threads here, I decided to check the impeller, which did not have anything stuck in it.
What I did notice is the surface of the impeller that fits into the diffuser is grooved, the metal insert of the diffuser is a bit rough and is rusted.
Could these issues cause low pressure?
Probably not.

More than likely, there is some other type of suction side blockage.

Skimmer connection

Bumping a very old thread here, but I had this same discovery in my skimmer too. I'm planning to dig out just enough of the rock/dirt to put a threaded plug/cap on it and permanently leave it sealed off.

I think I need to lower water enough in pool to where it's below skimmer, or just briefly turn off my pump, install a skimmer plate temporarily, vacuum out water and such from the skimmer (and as much as I can from that plugged line) then seal it shut with a plug. I don't think it's necessarily a negative that it's there open filled with rocks, but I don't love the sight of it when I open skimmer and pull up my basket. So that's what's leading my desire to plug it up.

Jandy Variable Speed Pump Not Starting

Welcome to TFP!!!

First thing you need to do is get a test kit. We don't rely on strips or pool stores. As a result, we need results from your test kit to give you help. Why? Because the strips and store testing is inaccurate, and we can do more harm than good making recommendations off of inaccurate test results. A proper test kit will save you LOTS of money in the long run.

Here is what we recommend. Link-->Test Kits Compared

Damaged Waterfall Weir

Thanks for the reply. The bottom section of this fixture does look like the Jandy Sheer Decent Waterfall you shared, but my fixture has the unusual 45 degree turn at the top. Makes me wonder if this was actually a Jandy Sheer Arc Waterfall that was incorrectly installed to make it work like a Sheer Descent (maybe there wasn't enough water pressure to get the arc effect). I cannot find any photos or drawings of a Sheer Arc fixture. Could this be Part No. 1218CSA Sheer Arc Waterfall?

I could replace it with the Jandy Sheer Descent with Bottom Feed, but it may not perform exactly like the other existing waterfall fixture.
I just found this in a Jandy catalog. It sure looks like my waterfall, just flipped over and incorrectly installed.

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Damaged Waterfall Weir

Thanks for the feedback. I have used EpoxyBond Pool Putty before on pool fixture cracks (inside my pool skimmer), but never used Plast-Aid. Do you believe that Plast-Aid works better for this type of plastic and crack type than Pool Putty?

I believe so.

Regarding the failure mode. I can understand that any remaining water could be stuck down in this section of the waterfall. However, even if this waterfall was not fully evacuated of water, wouldn't any remaining water have some place to expand to instead of expanding against the waterfall fixture and breaking it? I have attached another photo showing a close up of the failed edge. I don't know enough to determine the failure mode from looking at this.
We are all guessing. Water and freezing works in strange ways.

Damaged Waterfall Weir

Looks like an 18" "Sheer Descent" waterfall by Jandy.
View attachment 642404
Thanks for the reply. The bottom section of this fixture does look like the Jandy Sheer Decent Waterfall you shared, but my fixture has the unusual 45 degree turn at the top. Makes me wonder if this was actually a Jandy Sheer Arc Waterfall that was incorrectly installed to make it work like a Sheer Descent (maybe there wasn't enough water pressure to get the arc effect). I cannot find any photos or drawings of a Sheer Arc fixture. Could this be Part No. 1218CSA Sheer Arc Waterfall?

I could replace it with the Jandy Sheer Descent with Bottom Feed, but it may not perform exactly like the other existing waterfall fixture.

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Does this sound right for an electric pool heater?

Here is rough math...you can work out your own numbers:

Does this sound right for an electric pool heater?

Would I be correct in that (with google AI) a 75000 btu electric heater like the one linked below, would use roughly 2-3KW an hour? If you're saying that should be big enough to raise the temp at least 1 degree an hour, then if my pool water right now is 72, and I want to raise it to at least 85 just once, at $.43 a KW, then it would cost me $16-$17? I'm just looking for a rough guesstimate obviously.

How to use Pool High manually from EasyTouch 4

Dave,

"Pool High" is just a Circuit Name.. It could be "Jim"... It is just a name, that by itself, does nothing..

What does it do on a schedule?? I suspect it just changes the pump speed.

I don't see how you could assign it to the heater button... :scratch:

If it just changes the pump speed, then most likely it is a Feature Circuit.. If that is the case, it can be turned on or off by using the little 3" LCD

Menu, scroll to find Feature Circuit with a name of "Pool High" and turn it on or off..

Edit... What is it you are actually trying to do??

Thanks,

Jim R.

Damaged Waterfall Weir

I would use Plast-aid. It chemically fuses and bonds with plastic and you can build it up in layers.


Order some plast-aid and mix a bit and see how it works and hardens. Test it on other plastic you have around and I think you will see how it can repair the area.

It is worth a try at repair and run the waterfall to test it before covering it up.

BTW, I guess the damage came from improper winterization and water freezing in the waterfall.
Thanks for the feedback. I have used EpoxyBond Pool Putty before on pool fixture cracks (inside my pool skimmer), but never used Plast-Aid. Do you believe that Plast-Aid works better for this type of plastic and crack type than Pool Putty?

Regarding the failure mode. I can understand that any remaining water could be stuck down in this section of the waterfall. However, even if this waterfall was not fully evacuated of water, wouldn't any remaining water have some place to expand to instead of expanding against the waterfall fixture and breaking it? I have attached another photo showing a close up of the failed edge. I don't know enough to determine the failure mode from looking at this.

Attachments

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IMG_6209.jpg

Impeller and diffuser wear?

Intelliflo 2VST, last season I noticed reduced pressure on my filter, normal is about 10, but was reading 5-ish.
I was also experiencing an HL2 code on my Raypac heater.
After reading many threads here, I decided to check the impeller, which did not have anything stuck in it.
What I did notice is the surface of the impeller that fits into the diffuser is grooved, the metal insert of the diffuser is a bit rough and is rusted.
Could these issues cause low pressure?

cheap but effective pool chemicals - what do you use and where do you buy?

I am just starting manage my own pool. It is a 26000 gal pool

I’m trying to cut down on pool maintenance costs without sacrificing water quality.

I’d love to hear from experienced pool owners:
1. What affordable but effective chemicals do you use? (chlorine, shock, pH adjusters, algaecides, etc.)
2. Where do you usually buy them for the best deals? (Walmart, Home Depot, Costco, Amazon, local pool store?)
3. Has anyone used household alternatives successfully? (e.g. bleach instead of liquid chlorine, baking soda for alkalinity, etc.)

My goal is to get the job done well without overspending. Appreciate any tips or products you’ve had good results with. Thanks in advance!

Looking for a way to test GPM at each return

For example, if you have 2 returns and each has 50 gpm, then the total flow is 100 gpm and the flow meters add about 2.9 feet of head loss.

If we lower the head loss by 2.9 feet, the flow goes from 100 to about 106 GPM.

The error is higher for lower flows.

View attachment 642437
I see what you mean. For some reason I was thinking the meters would be calibrated to account for their own resistance and give you a reading without that but that wouldn't make sense.

Filter