Thanks so much…. I don’t know why I kept missing the stop piece on the handle
so I have a skimmer, and I have Another port on the wall by the skimmer that sucks in water also, I always assumed it was for a vaccum. Just bought the house two years ago
Lossen the nut on the handle and pull it up a bit as you turn it to get it past the stops.It doesn’t turn that way. Are u saying the long handle should be facing the pump? Did my pool guy install this backwards when closing my pool?
It doesn’t turn that way. Are u saying the long handle should be facing the pump? Did my pool guy install this backwards when closing my pool?
See, I'm with you. Why make it easy when you can make it hard!?
Additionally, I'd be tempted to upsize to 2" where I could, to get rid of some reducers, and even use some sweep 90s, all in anticipation of the new pump that will someday get installed (with 2" fittings). It looks to be 1.5" to the pool and back, so this is all somewhat Overkill, but that's my middle name.I originally had the fusion2 that wasn’t being used with the tablet dispenser and had the PB switch it to a fusion2 soft with the power center that is labeled Aquapure, ended up being about $2600 for the install.Leave salt alone until we sort you out and you have your test kit.
Get the minerals out of the fusion soft.
Nature2 Fusion - Further Reading
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I'm confused. You have the fusion, and an aquapure? two salt cells? Post some pictures of your equipment pad so we can see everything.
Pool store testing is worthless. The only thing that matters is that your cell is happy.
Don't turn it on until we understand where you are.
This is great info--thanks!There is nothing wrong with a CSI of -0.37.
For PH, TA, CH, I focus on CSI and I regularly keep it within -0.6 and -0.3. My pool's plaster is going on 20 years old and still in fairly good condition without much etching at all. Etching really doesn't accelerate until well below -0.6.
The CSI is Reliable for Plaster-based Pools
Using the Calcium Saturation Index (also known as the LSI in the pool industry) as a guide for maintaining proper pool water balance and to protect pool plaster, including quartz and pebble finishes, has become a mainstay in our industry for good reason. Several experiments have been conducted...
Only because it is really hard to measure a PH above 8.0 and because it can be an irritant to the eyes.
You are being too restrictive about the levels. Again, there is nothing wrong with those ranges.
Don't confuse recommended ranges with absolute limits. There is a lot of margin built into the recommended ranges and operating outside of the recommended ranges is not uncommon and sometimes necessary depending on unique conditions.
Increasing CH would be the last thing that I would do as it is difficult to reverse. Focus on TA & PH.
However, I have operated my pool at CH levels close to 1000 ppm in the past because of very high CH fill water and drought restrictions.
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