In my opinion, it is freeze damage.

Iron staining.

Update: the pool guy says that he blows antifreeze through the lines (and there was a mostly empty antifreeze upside down in both skimmers) so that there's no way it would be freeze damage. He's saying that it looks like something fell on it. I can't imagine what that would have been, but it does kind of jibe with the broken valve handles. I'm not sure how far to push this without concrete proof.

Sadly, I realized that the damage goes all the way down to deck level -- new pic attached.

PoolStored said:

Can you post pictures?
The lights is a clue. Take some vitamin C tablets, put them in a sock and rub the sock over the stains, see if they lift. Particularly by the lights.

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The pictures are not coming out very clearly. There are brown lines appearing under the lights in several areas of the pool. I will try the vitamin c. What do you think is going on?

Well... I am here to post an update. I am on my 4th unit since my original purchase in July, 2024. It came with a one year warrenty. I do have to say that the customer service is outstanding. I email them the issue, send them a short video showing the issue, send them a pic of the serial number and they send me out a new unit. All communication is through email, and is 24 hour response time since they are in China. It has been a different issue with each unit. Can't remember the issue with each one, but one unit would no longer charge, and another unit the one track would not turn. So the units are only lasting about 2 - 2.5 months. But when they do run, they do a pretty decent job. Hope my review and update helps others in the quest for the holy grail of pool cleaners!

@ol_whistle_britches installed one of these systems recently. Maybe he can advise if a separate timer is required or if scheduling on/off can be done via the app...

Not bad after heavy rains all day

There's many different ways to do oxidation processes - straight ozone injection, UV light, peroxide with a catalyst (typically iron chloride), UV + peroxide or MPS, etc., etc. UV light is oftentimes used to generate ozone gas in a tube which is then injected into a water stream using a Venturi adapter. Corona discharge (CD) is another method for generating ozone. CD is typically cheaper to implement but both methods suffer from poor efficiency because they use air-sourced oxygen to generate ozone. Unfortunately, air is mostly nitrogen and it often contains a lot of water vapor which is a poison to the ozone generation process. Real commercial ozone generators use concentrated oxygen streams that are free of CO2 and water vapor.

All AOP's will suffer from chemical inefficiencies because recreational water typically has very high bicarbonate levels (the main component of the measured TA) and bicarbonate is another scavenger of oxidative radicals.

I would stick with a simple UV setup and see how it works for you. Ozone in an indoor pool setting is not really a good idea unless you have a contact tank and a way of off gassing the ozone through a carbon filter to avoid respiratory issues.

Discount Salt Pool and CircuPool are the same company. They probably have not yet updated the websites. For some reason their pricing structure is a little different as well.

Open for business. Daughter kept her tradition of first in the water each year.



Water temp at 3 ft depth is 60F… I think I’ll wait.

Bperry said:

Do this. When the guy comes out just tell him what you’re doing and he’ll mark out the gas line location. Concrete tends to be 4”~ deep and gas lines are supposed to be deeper, but the drill bit doesn’t always stop at the required depth.

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My thoughts at the moment are to construct the pergola (without attaching it to the concrete decking) and then call 811 out so they can get an accurate look at where I want to place the pergola.

Rancho Cost-a-Lotta said:

I tried to research how the system works on the CircuPool site and left with more questions than answers. I would be very surprised if it did not allow the ability to set SWG schedules through the app, but I can't find confirmation that it does. Can you link SWG system you are gonna install...

CircuPool CORE CONTROL

CircuPool CORE CONTROL™ revolutionizes pool care with smart chlorine generation, pH management, and full automation. Control your pool remotely with the My-Pool app.

www.circupool.com

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this it the one! what's ridiculous is it's not even on circupool's site...but i bought it from discount salt pool...so was i scammed? very odd if you ask me.

dosmom said:

but was told there is a sensor that sends the board the salt levels,

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No.
Read Hayward Aquarite SWG - Further Reading

TinFoilHat said:

No way to tell. Your photos don't show a gas line. How thick is the patio slab? As long as you don't pierce the slab you should be fine.

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I would say it is 4-6" deep. But I'll measure when I get home.

PoolStored said:

I'd wire the pump directly to a GCFI breaker.
My *OPION*, the only way to know the pump is not running is to have a Current Sensing Relay (which is what I have...)

Review this again, particularly,
A Variable Speed pump (VS) should have continuous power and not be connected to a timer. The pump runtime should be controlled by its internal control panel and clock. A separate mechanical timer can control the SWG. Care must then be taken for the SWG timer to turn on 15 minutes after the pump begins running and SWG power off before the pump turns off. This can become a problem when house power is lost, and the pump retains the proper time while the mechanical timer does not.

SWG How It Works - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

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tell me more about the current sensing relay and how that works... please

Dahnke82 said:

Thanks for your reply. I think I'm in luck with the union size as the Amazon order is a kit so it comes with it and is designed for fitting my Superflo pump.

Question: How long do I need to let the purple PVC glue cure before turning the pump on?

Here is a pic the kit I ordered. It comes with 2 sets. View attachment 643478

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PVC glue is not purple, that is PVC primer. If you get a good "blue" glue properly and use it with a primer, it will be ready to use faster than you can complete the repair and install it to the pump. If it is a warm day, give it 5 minutes, if it makes you less anxious. If cold, 10. Even a clear glue will set quickly. Just be sure to use enough to completely cover the entire area that is to be in contact with the pipe and fitting and use it on both surfaces. Since that is on the suction side, it is far less likely to leak than if it were on the outlet of the pump.

Interesting that it is producing chlorine but was told there is a sensor that sends the board the salt levels, so I guess that may be going bad but it still produces chlorine. It is 6 years old so I got good life out of it.

A changing salt reading through the day would indicate a bad cell.

1poolman1 said:

Yes. Hard to read, but it looks like the terminal top right is high speed (circuit 1 on the Intermatic) and the top left is low (circuit 2 on the Intermatic). If it is reversed, just move the wires.
The "common" appears to be the center terminal of that board. It would normally be the wire that goes to the A terminal on a Century 2-speed pump motor, which is what you probably have now.
You won't need to use the terminals that the diagram shows for the "line" wires except for the ground terminal.
A picture of the timer with the insulator removed would help determine which wire is going to the common from the timer.

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I just posted it!

rbrown226 said:

Can I just bypass the switch and wire it directly to the area I circled?
View attachment 643498

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Yes. Hard to read, but it looks like the terminal top right is high speed (circuit 1 on the Intermatic) and the top left is low (circuit 2 on the Intermatic). If it is reversed, just move the wires.
The "common" appears to be the center terminal of that board. It would normally be the wire that goes to the A terminal on a Century 2-speed pump motor, which is what you probably have now.
You won't need to use the terminals that the diagram shows for the "line" wires except for the ground terminal.
A picture of the timer with the insulator removed would help determine which wire is going to the common from the timer.

Just wanted to update, incase anyone else runs into the same issue.

After a little back and forth with Hayward support and sending them proof of purchase, and pictures of the message and wiring, they decided to replace the Smart Relay under warranty. Received the new one late last week and got it replaced this weekend. Everything is working perfectly now. Woo Hoo!

One can dream...

Also, not every household has a pool. However, I think the industry is big enough for a disrupter. I'm looking forward to that. It will come, and someone is going spend a few millions to make hundreds of millions of dollars. The technology is there, and the good olde boys are going to get the rugs pulled under them.