Jenmachen said:

ozone? ok. why ozone over uv? i've never seen ozone recommended on this site, but i've never really looked into it either.

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Indoor pools have many more CC issues then outdoor pools. Ozone systems mostly solve problems that low usage (eg home) outdoor pools don't get. Some combination of ozone and UV is the standard solution for CC problems in UK indoor pools.

Image from the pump manual might make it easier to figure out.

This is a half guess (can't follow the wires in the intermatic timers), but I would stay Black and Red should be on the outside terminals and blue is on the middle (common). Left is low and right is high.

If you have a meter, check to see which wires have voltage when it on low and high and which wire has voltage to ground in both cases. That would tell you what is common and which is high and low.

checked it at 2:30 and it was at 17. I added more juice to get it back to 20. Just checked again close to 4:30 and it's at 20.

Hi guys not sure i need to open another post or continue here.
Anyhow, something strange is happening.
Salt reading:
- when i tested right at opening it was between 2500 and 3000
- pool guy tested it as 1000 with the machine, not with reagents
- i kept testing as described above and i kept getting 2500-3000
- i opened the pool may 1
- i switched off swcg day 2 as chlorine was too high.
- today salt tested at 1200

Is it possible that salt went down? If not could the test be wrong initially?
Thoughts?

Thanks for all the great advice, I am going to try it all this weekend and get back to you with videos, comments and things. You guys have helped out a lot.

Also love Aiper. No problem with my Seagull Pro for 2 years (until they recalled it), but got my replacement a couple days ago. Still love it. My only complaint was the 180 micron filter with no finer options. I recently added a sheet of 50 micron aquarium material and it does a much better job (see attached, latest run in a fairly clean pool). I have my Aquabot corded as a backup, but hope to never use it again. The Scuba S1 is similar with smaller basket that's harder to clean.

rwm said:

it does kind of jibe with the broken valve handles.

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Those handles break all the time.

The plastic gets brittle and the valves get hard to turn, which means that the plastic breaks because it is weak and you are using a lot of force to open or close the valve.

You can see teeth marks where someone used pliers to turn the valve because the handles were missing.

I am very sure that the damage is due to freezing.

It looks like the service person is going to try to weasel out of taking responsibility.

Not much you can do to force people to do the right thing.

Stevekell said:

I have 240 v at pump .. 120v at each power lead L1and L2 respectively

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Check voltage Line-to-Line.

Welcome to TFP!

It's hard to provide you with solid advice without reliable test results. Although challenging, you can get a TFP recommended test kit in Canada.

Here's a quick tip that may help. SWGs do a good job of maintaining FC levels in a well-balanced pool. They are not good at adding large amounts of FC quickly. We recommend to bring FC up to target level with liquid chlorine, then set the SWG's output to make up for daily loss, usually between 2-4 ppm per day.
FC/CYA Levels

ibondsmith said:

I only have 110v, will that be an issue?

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i,

Are you sure???

I'm pretty sure the pump that you have only runs off of 240 Volts AC..

If you have an EasyTouch, show me pics of your pump/filter relay in the upper left of your cabinet.. Show two pics, one of the just the relay and one showing all your circuit breakers.

Thanks,,

Jim R.

Transformers rarely fail. Did they say what had failed?

Correct. All about volts and amps.

mknauss said:

No.
Read Hayward Aquarite SWG - Further Reading

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got it. Thanks. I may have misunderstood what he said, I know he did say that the cell determines the salt level. That seems correct based on the document you linked. Right?

Here's my update from the service persons visit yesterday. He says we need a new transformer (maybe 2?) to get the functionality of 3 circuits to get our pool lights to function the way we want. In regard to the issue with the Salt Cell. He hooked up a tester and showed that the circuit board at the back upper area (or whatever is the proper name for it) was not working and the breaker switch (upper right corner) also needs to be replaced. He said that most likely that is why the Salt Cell is not working.

The office has not yet sent me a work order with the costs. What I do know is at this time I'm not comfortable doing these repairs myself, though if they determine that a new salt cell is also needed I will most likely do that myself (I've unplugged and replugged ours in so many times the in past 7 years ... that is just too easy and I'm sure their markup on the $1,500 price tag would be astronomical.

Thanks you all for your support. I'll report back when this is all done.

In my opinion, it is freeze damage.

Iron staining.

Update: the pool guy says that he blows antifreeze through the lines (and there was a mostly empty antifreeze upside down in both skimmers) so that there's no way it would be freeze damage. He's saying that it looks like something fell on it. I can't imagine what that would have been, but it does kind of jibe with the broken valve handles. I'm not sure how far to push this without concrete proof.

Sadly, I realized that the damage goes all the way down to deck level -- new pic attached.

PoolStored said:

Can you post pictures?
The lights is a clue. Take some vitamin C tablets, put them in a sock and rub the sock over the stains, see if they lift. Particularly by the lights.

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The pictures are not coming out very clearly. There are brown lines appearing under the lights in several areas of the pool. I will try the vitamin c. What do you think is going on?

Well... I am here to post an update. I am on my 4th unit since my original purchase in July, 2024. It came with a one year warrenty. I do have to say that the customer service is outstanding. I email them the issue, send them a short video showing the issue, send them a pic of the serial number and they send me out a new unit. All communication is through email, and is 24 hour response time since they are in China. It has been a different issue with each unit. Can't remember the issue with each one, but one unit would no longer charge, and another unit the one track would not turn. So the units are only lasting about 2 - 2.5 months. But when they do run, they do a pretty decent job. Hope my review and update helps others in the quest for the holy grail of pool cleaners!

@ol_whistle_britches installed one of these systems recently. Maybe he can advise if a separate timer is required or if scheduling on/off can be done via the app...

Not bad after heavy rains all day

There's many different ways to do oxidation processes - straight ozone injection, UV light, peroxide with a catalyst (typically iron chloride), UV + peroxide or MPS, etc., etc. UV light is oftentimes used to generate ozone gas in a tube which is then injected into a water stream using a Venturi adapter. Corona discharge (CD) is another method for generating ozone. CD is typically cheaper to implement but both methods suffer from poor efficiency because they use air-sourced oxygen to generate ozone. Unfortunately, air is mostly nitrogen and it often contains a lot of water vapor which is a poison to the ozone generation process. Real commercial ozone generators use concentrated oxygen streams that are free of CO2 and water vapor.

All AOP's will suffer from chemical inefficiencies because recreational water typically has very high bicarbonate levels (the main component of the measured TA) and bicarbonate is another scavenger of oxidative radicals.

I would stick with a simple UV setup and see how it works for you. Ozone in an indoor pool setting is not really a good idea unless you have a contact tank and a way of off gassing the ozone through a carbon filter to avoid respiratory issues.