Tested my two fill water options with Taylor K-2006-SALT - thoughts?

pH side doesn't matter. We are trying to lower TA. So in 24 hours I can lower a TA of 120 to 100.
May take a few pH cycles to get there.
thanks, but still doesn't make sense, why are we aerating the pool to lower TA instead of just adding MA to it? Lowering TA is doable with MA, right? the problem is that pH will also lower, and cannot be raised without also raising TA, and that's why we aerate, to raise pH without raising TA along with it, correct?

Main filter pump breaker tripped

Thanks for your reply.
Yes, it's a GFCI double pole breaker. Indicator light on it is not blinking.
I have no problem carrying out your instructions (which are very clear).
Of the 3 possible problems you proposed, none of them is a bad pump relay. I only say this because another post mentioned a bad pump relay. Did you mean somewhere in your post that the pump relay could be bad, and I just misunderstood it?
Extremely rare that a relay could cause a high-voltage breaker to trip, its not controlled/protected by that breaker, its a low-voltage device.
Easy way to tell is, after removing the high-voltage wires from the pump relay, swap the small relay wires that go to the board with one of the others, move #1 relay wire to socket #2 and push the #2 button to turn it on. What happens?
If, by some weird chance, it is a relay, they are actually inexpensive, you don't have to get one in a Pentair box. Omron G7L-2A-BUBJ-CB-DC24 General Purpose Relay With Test Button, Class B Insulation, Screw Terminal, Upper Bracket Mounting, Double Pole Single ThrowOmron G7L-2A-BUBJ-CB-DC24 General Purpose Relay, about $21.00.
Before moving anything, take a picture with your phone so you can return everything to its original state. I do that every time I work on wiring, just in case.

Zodiac Controller Issue

I'm back. Still fighting this controller. Still getting "fault unknown". I power it off at the breaker and back on and it'll clear and run for 4-6hrs, or overnight. I get up and it'll be "fault unknown". It's really blowing my mind. Even tried a new controller, same make and model.

Surely my control wiring isn't faulting. I look's good and it's only 10vdc.

Was thinking of wiping the slate clean and trying a Jandy SPEEDSET and new wiring. But I can't find any reviews for the SPEEDSET... anyone operating with one?

Bench construction for automatic pool cover

I sure hope someone can help us. We hired a pool company to install an automatic pool cover. They installed the pool cover but would not install the
bench or construct the bench. It was in the contract that a bench was included to cover the pool cover when it was retracted. Now, my husband and I are left with the problem of how to construct the bench and still allow free movement of the pool cover. Has anyone constructed an automatic pool cover bench?
Here are some basic instructions, maybe you can DIY or find a handyman

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100% Silicone for Step Jet Returns - Says no Underwater Use

Hey all,

The pool is undergoing a facelift this year: new liner, and I also had the steps reno'd.

One thing I want to do, just as an added precaution against any future potential leaks, is to seal around the return jets at the steps. I had been advised to do this previously when fixing an actual leak (where I sealed both sides of the jet as I'd dug out behind the steps) and was told any 100% silicone would do the trick.

Based on another thread on here, I bought GE Silicone 2, specifically: General PDP Template. I believe the official product page is: Advanced Silicone 2<sup>®</sup> Kitchen & Bath Sealant | GE Sealants

When I was at the store, I noticed this (and all the other brands of 100% silicone) say "Not for underwater/aquarium use" or words similar to that.

I'm confused... Why do these say they can't be used underwater, but the advice on here is to use 100% silicone. I trust you guys more, but hoping you could help me understand.

If this is the wrong product, can you point me in the direction of some better options please? I'm in Canada, if that changes anything.

Thanks so much.
From Enviroliteracy.org:

Aquarium-Safe vs. Regular Silicone: What’s the Difference?​

The key distinction lies in the additives. Aquarium-safe silicone is specifically formulated without anti-mildew or mold inhibitors. These additives, while beneficial in bathrooms and kitchens, are highly toxic to fish and other aquatic life. Regular silicone often contains these harmful chemicals, making it unsuitable for aquarium use.

Try this as it is designed for underwater use:
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Main filter pump breaker tripped

Thanks for your reply.
Yes, it's a GFCI double pole breaker. Indicator light on it is not blinking.
I have no problem carrying out your instructions (which are very clear).
Of the 3 possible problems you proposed, none of them is a bad pump relay. I only say this because another post mentioned a bad pump relay. Did you mean somewhere in your post that the pump relay could be bad, and I just misunderstood it?
Also, it could be a bad breaker ? Even though the light on the breaker is not lit?

Repair or replace multi-port valve

I replaced the sand in my sand filter and was surprised to find that, in the process, removing the multi-port was easy. Unusually easy. Basically, after I loosened the clamp, the valve basically lifted off like I was lifting a cup off the table.

Upon inspection, I discovered that the reason no effort was required was because the plastic is cleanly separated from the valve.
View attachment 643742View attachment 643743View attachment 643744
Turns out the plastic was well secured and tightly held in place on the lateral and took a little bit of prying to get it off. I don't think it was glued on to the lateral. It was just holding in place from inherent friction.
View attachment 643745
My thoughts were to just put it back in place and let the valve sit back in place. However, now that it's been removed once, the plastic piece does not hold in place. It freely drops down.
View attachment 643746

Is it possible (reasonable) to re-secure the plastic with glue and/or tape or do I have to get a brand new multi-port valve?
That's the diffuser for the valve to evenly distribute incoming water over the sand bed. It may or may not have ever been glued to the valve body, but there looks like some residue of adhesive on both the valve and that part. Others are just "clicked" on.
Plast-Aid would probably successfully reattach it to the valve body. Just a small amount around the perimeter of the diffuser and at the center should do it.
If the valve is old, you may want to go ahead and replace it, then you won't worry about other parts going bad.
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SWG in my future?

Personally, I wouldn’t worry about the financial justification. It’s the ease of use. Just think of all those trips to buy LC, then lug it to your storage area, then add it, worrying about high demand times where it drops more frequently, etc. All of that goes away with a salt cell and your pool becomes almost maintenance free. For the most part, my regular maintenance is testing the water, adding about a pint of MA each week, occasionally brushing and emptying skimmer baskets. Probably around 10 minutes per week.

opening 2025

This is my 5th year opening up here in the NE and it went decently smooth, but still have one doubt.

The pressure gauge says 4 PSI when the pump is on. Usually its around 13 psi at the beginning of the season and around 17 when the filter is dirty. This is for a 60 sq ft DE filter. Anyone know if 4 PSI could be normal at all? There a couple of known issues for my setup.
1. I have a weird separation tank setup. In the past if that is not properly plugged, I will have air in the system and I will see "sparkles" (bubbles) on the returns when the system is on, and when the system is off, DE will leak into the pool. I just filled the system with DE and forgot to check if DE is leaking into the pool. Another symptom of that issue is that the pressure will be very weird and fluctuate a lot. Now that I am writing about it, maybe that's the issue and I was just fooled that it was a steady 4 PSI.
2. My pressure gauge is really old. I bought a new one a couple of years ago just to have something new looking and it broke just unscrewing it. It seems like the new ones arent as sturdy as my old one. So I went back to the old one. Anyhow, I have another new one as a backup, and I will give that a try.

Here the full story on my opening this year.
I was targeting May 1st as my usual opening day and it seemed like good time since overnight temps were beginning to creep above 50F. I started by vacuuming to waste a week before May 1st. I always get a ton of leafs, worms and dirt, so I start with a vacuum to waste. Interestingly, I didn't see a single worm this year, as opposed to hundreds every other year. Unfortunately, we didn't get much water this winter, so vacuuming ended up removing too much water from the pool since it wasn't filled to the brim as usual. Luckily the weather turned cold and it gave me another week to wait for the spring rain. The rain didn't come and so I had to add water to the pool in spring, which I think is such a waste during what is usually rainy season. During this time, I lubed up all the rubber gaskets, except the pump lid. That has also leaked air in the past, so I may have to do that again. Some other stuff came up like running out of DE, so I had to delay another week.

I wanted to open last weekend, but I didn't realize I ran out of DE, so that took a few days to resolve itself. In the meantime I had a big scare. After realizing I didn't have enough DE, I forgot to turn off the power to the pump clock. So the next day the pump turned on while I was at work with what would of been too little water in the pool. Luckily, spring came that night and dumped a lot of water on the pool. So my pump was saved. And yes, I added water to the pool days before for no reason :/ Another mess up was that I added 1 cup of DE just to see if the system was working well and I had the pollen sock cover on the skimmer basket. Turns out that does not let any DE filter through and the DE blocked water from getting to the pump. Lesson learned.

During this time period, I have put in my pool robot like 3 times and each time it comes back half filled with dirt and leaves. That seems a little worrisome, I guess I didn't vacuum that well this year. I do have a a healing arm injury, so vacuuming wasn't done that well. Oh I also keep the cover on during this whole process and only remove the edge I'm working on, so I don't have much visibility onto whether I am just shoving most of the debris to other side as I go along. I keep the cover on because during spring the pollen is nuts and the cover keeps it out. I also feel like I need to add less chlorine as the sun is blocked. No one is getting into the pool until next month, so the only problem is when I vacuum.

So today I ended up finishing the opening, except for one return. I have three returns, with one of them being a water feature with a separate turn off valve. I didn't unplug that return as I didn't have time. Hopefully that doesn't affect the system too much. As far as chemicals, Ive had a floating chlorinator with pool pucks since around march time. I know this forum is against chlorine pucks, but its needed in my case. Interestingly, when I first inherited the pool, I couldn't get the CYA below 140 for a year or two. Since those first couple of season I've been struggling to get the CYA above 20. I'm not sure how to explain it, other than we got wet winters and wet springs, and I usually end up pumping out water 2 or 3 times before opening. I guess its possible, I recycle up to 50% of the water each season. The only issue with that theory is that the CYA drops to 0, so it would have to reason that CYA always floats to the top after every time I remove water. Otherwise, recycling 50% of the water should mean CYA drops by half from one season to the next? No idea. But I do know that I was traumatized by having around 140 CYA for a couple of seasons and have been very passive about adding CYA. This year, I am going to be more aggressive about it. So I am keeping the floating chlorinator pucks and adding CYA sock fulls to the skimmer. Watch this backfire on me with the dryer winter/spring wave had this year :/

I've also dumped three gallons of liquid chlorine from last season over the past couple of weeks. From experience, I know the strength of these has probably been halved, so I'm not even going to rely on them other then as a backup for the chlorine pucks. I am kind of late in opening, since it warmed up a bit the last week or so, but the pool looks clear. I guess I will find out later in the season if I have to backwash earlier than usual.

One improvement for next year might be to wait a bit longer to put in DE. Its apparent I have air leakage issues and I should work those out before adding DE. I always end up rushing it and then all the DE gets dumped into the pool. Just realized this year, that I can just run the pump without DE. Just need to make sure I have a "sock" filter on the skimmer and I think the DE filter just not get very dirty before adding the DE.
I may also want to completely remove the cover when I vacuum the first time. Its a lot of work, but may save me some work in the long term. I also wonder if when I vacuum to waste, I should just route the waste hose into the pool. The dirt will go back into the pool, but the leafs and big debris will caught by pump basket. That will be the first pass and I will lose no water. I can then wait a couple of days for debris to settle on pool floor and do a second pass to remove the dirt and some water to the street.

1746640811461.png

Help with high CYA

Every time I’ve looked into this topic I’ve seen lots of people say you need to partially refill the pool is that the only way to fix it? I was also just told that the pool can pop out depending on the water table where can I look to find my water table?
Replacing water is the only way to lower CYA.
Read "No Drain Water Exchange" here:

I am here

TC 9ppm - FC 9ppm - PH 6 drops - Base demand 0 - TA 125ppm - Calcium Hardness 150ppm - Stabilizer 300 ppm - Total solids 1000ppm.
^^^Where did these number come from?
How are you testing your water
How did you test CYA at 300? Can you explain your procedure?
With a CYA off 300, you will not be able to follow the SLAM process. Just not possible.
AND you won't add enough chlorine, no matter how much you add to kill the algae.
If your CYA is 300, you need to replace 85% of your water.
Let's get an accurate CYA before we do that, but...

See "no drain water exchange" here:

Main filter pump breaker tripped

Have Easytouch with Whiperflo (model WF-28) 2hp single speed main pump.
Had big thunderstorm last night, lots of lightning/thunder, main pump breaker tripped.
Reset breaker, it trips.
All other pumps (water feature, spa jets) work normally; lights and blower motor work normally.
Only main pump (and salt cell generator which is tied to pump) won't run due to tripped breaker.
Breaker light is not blinking.
No visible signs of damage anywhere.

I saw another post where the probable diagnosis was pump relay out.

Any ideas on what is wrong and how to fix it (which I'm sure involves buying an expensive part).
Thanks.
Is this a GFCI breaker? Lightning strikes can fry electrical devices far from the event and may have damaged the breaker. If you are not familiar or comfortable working on high-voltage equipment, hire a pro. Its not worth it to get hurt over a pool part.

If you are comfortable with working on electrical parts, with the pump breaker off, disconnect the wires that go to the pump and SWG from what should be the top left relay (#1) in the high-voltage compartment. Reset the breaker and then, with the panel in service mode, push the "filter" button (#1). If the breaker trips, you have found the issue is probably with the EasyTouch board.

If the breaker doesn't trip, go ahead and turn it and the #1 button off, install the pump wires to the relay, reset the breaker, and try it again. If it trips the breaker you have isolated the problem to the pump or its wiring.

If it doesn't trip the breaker, again turn the breaker and #1 button off, install the wiring for the SWG and try the process again. If it trips this time, its a problem with the SWG or its wiring.

Pentair VSP help

Yes, will continue to keep an eye on things more closely. When I release air from the filter air relief valve, do I need to put the pool in service mode every time or just turn the valve to release and turn it back? FWIW, it doesn't seem like much/any air escapes. I actually ended up getting on the phone with Pentair and they walked me thru it and maybe a little air came out initially (like kind of how it sounds when you open a plastic liter bottle of soda), and then I did it one more time when I was following your steps but didn't seem like any air was releasing.
You only want to do this while the pump is running. All you're doing is releasing air from the filter. Once most or all of the air is gone, you're done. You only need to do this after opening up the system, such as what you did when you open the pump lid.
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Help! Show off your WHITE pebble tec / pebble sheen !

Thank you so much for posting pics of white pebbles ! It really helps. The more the better... keep them coming everyone!

- - - Updated - - -

Love it! What is you finish stodds? Does it look vivid in person? Do the glass blue beads actually sparkle or add color? Thanks!
Reviving an old thread. How's this color been wearing over time? We're debating using this color but concerned it will show silt/dirt and not look as good long term. Our pool guy compared it to having a black car. Looks great when it's clean, but...

IntelliCenter 3.002 - Heater not working

I have the same problem. Here is what Pentair said:
"On the old firmware when you select either GAS HEATER or MasterTemp the system would activate both ways to try and turn these heaters on.

Now on 3.002 you must choose the exact correct way that the heater is connected to the IntelliCenter for it to activate correctly. So if you have MASTERTEMP selected on this new higher firmware and the heater starts - you are wired RS 485.

If you have GAS HEATER selected as the heat source, and the heater starts, you are wired through the Fireman switch on the heater back to the gas heater port on the IntelliCenter.

You have to find out which of the two ways this heater is installed/wired to the IntelliCenter, and be sure the heat source is set to that style of connection for it to work.

My guess is your unit is probably connected from fireman switch to gas heater relay, and you need to change the heat source to GAS HEATER and it will work correctly. "

But - I cannot find out where one can change between "MASTERTEMP" and GAS HEATER". If anyone knows please let me know.

I also noticed that I still have no system temperature history on 3.002.

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