Sorry I steered you wrong.

What does not fit?

It's dual voltage. Wire the pump directly to the breaker, don't use the easy touch.
They are both dual voltage. You won't need any caps.
Not pre-wired...i.e. there is no pigtail, you will have to wire from the easytouch breaker.

Hello Everyone,
I wanted to post an update to this thread and ask for help again. I ordered the adapter as outlined by Allen (GloBrite to MicroBrite Adapter, PN: 618040) and the new Jandy light does not fit into the adapter. Is there a different adapter kit I should be looking for (a brief search didn't yield a promising result)? Thanks again for any help or ideas!

This sounds like the way. I have no need for anything fancy. The pentair automation just enabled me to save some money running a single speed part of the day and if necessary switch valves around for an attached spa that i don't use because the heater is busted. I don't have fancy waterfalls or anything either. I can be happy with 24/7 power on at a lower speed setting. If the motor allows me to configure it directly like this one does I'll be happy. The price is right - the century V.O. is only about $100 than i spent last summer to replace a blown out single-speed. I hope it comes pre-wired for 220v so it's easy peasy and a matching capacitor but i'll have some 250 VACs on hand if not.

You would not remove those. It appears you have FLW feature fixtures that glue to 1 inch PVC. They glue onto the conduit. SR Smith purchased Fiberstar…..SR Smith offers an upgrade option that replaces the old Fiberstars Illuminator…..



https://www.srsmith.com/media/ruihue1e/99856_sl_srs_poollighting_8-5x11_brochure_nocrops.pdf (page 16)

https://www.poolinspections.com/manuals/lights/fiberstars-product-book-2000.pdf (Page 28 describes your fixture I believe).

The broadcast lens is removeable. I’m unsure if you can find a light that will fit inside the housing itself, especially because of its 90 degree design. I’ll keep digging. Perhaps SR Smith can give you some guidance if they have a retrofit for that style of fixture.

You should just need one pump.

HermanTX said:

Is this new? Do you know how to do the bucket test?

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I feel like it is relatively new. I have been noticing the need to add water more often since the pool was replastered about 5 months ago. I have been running the pump 24/7 since replastering. However, I am much more attentive to the pool since replastering, so that could play a role in what I observe.

I am aware of the bucket test since I have recently started researching how to detect and find leaks, but the air in the pump basket has been taking all my attention lately.

mas985 said:

If you detect a leak only when the pump is running or the leak is larger with the pump running, then the leak is likely on the return side of the pump in an unseen part of the plumbing.

If you detect a leak only when the pump is not running, then the leak is likely on the suction side of the pump and would explain the air leak on the suction side as well.

If you detect the same amount of leakage with both the pump running and not running, the leak is likely somewhere other than the plumbing such as the pool shell or plaster/PVC interface.

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Thanks mas985 for the concise summary.

I should have started a bucket test yesterday, but I first just did the simplest thing and marked the pool side water level with tape. It has been about 20 hours since I marked it, and the level has dropped 1/4" in cool weather (mid-50s low, mid-60s high) with the pump OFF.

I did a short, 2-hour test yesterday with the pump ON, and it lost about 1/8", so over 24 hours that potentially could be 1.5 inches! I will need to confirm this with the bucket test. It's sounding like a pressure side leak, but we'll see.

I will start the bucket test later today, with the pump ON, when my first 24-hr (non-bucket) test finishes. I'll need to repeat it with the pump OFF. I'll report back what happens.

Yes, I meant 35ppt. It is an infinity pool with harbour ferry waves washing into both the balance tank and the pool at high tide, so no choice about not using seawater. I had the chlorinator custom built for 35ppt by Watermaid. Never heard of the bromine issue with seawater, but that might explain why it's hard to hold on to the hypochlorite. I was also advised to periodically use 'Waterco Perox Safe & Clear' which I am not sure how it works (somehow relates with the hyypochlorite?), but helps with "bio film". Apparently bio film is an organic growth which really eats up the chlorine and is abundant in seawater. When I took the pool care over there was a 100g/hr double cell SWG that was getting fried (tripping its cell breaker) by the high salt concentration. They were constantly running the garden hose into the pool to dilute it enough for the SWG to occationally work. Their water bill was sky high. Now that I have a 35ppt SWG that runs 24/7 (pretty large pool) I had this Magnesium Hydroxide precipitation problem out the returns. At first it would set like a layer of cement on the tiles before I figured out I needed to keep a much lower pH. Now it doesn't stick but it's phenominal how much there is, hence the multicylcone filter post cell which needs to be flushed daily. I did once witness a massive lake style salt water hotel pool which used a bank of about twenty Astral 45g/hr chlorinators so I figured it must be managable, but it is a real mission.

Mac,

I am not sold that the cordless robots are 'there' yet...

One day, I'm sure..

Thanks,

Jim R.

If you have pentair automation, then look at the pentair intelliflo3. You really need to stay in the same family (automation / Pump / cell). There are other options, but they are a pain. (sorry I missed automation in your signature). With the intelliflo, you can control the pump.

You could also go with what I gave you, connect power to the current easy touch, leave it 'On'. When you turn it on, turn on the the pump. I would program the pump to run the same speed for 24 hours, low speed and forget about it. Mine is about 200W, or $20 per month.

I leave my pump on 24/7 at 1400RPM. Skims fine, makes chlorine and filters. Many of us run this way.

Really strange you have pentair automation and all Hayward equipment.

Kimmmg2003 said:

My Calcium has been at 50 since I installed the Aqua Cal heat pump (vinyl pool). I just saw my the calcium recommendation is 200-300. What do you think? Raise the Calcium?

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Nope.

Read Calcium Hardness - Further Reading

@Nikilyn

What did you do to 'fix' it???

Thanks,

Jim R.

Cel,

Well, looks like I lost my bet, but glad it is working for you...

I had 'assumed' the schedule was stored in the app, but it sounds like the schedule is stored in the Power Center..

That is good to know...

Thanks for the feedback...

What do you think of the EVO??

Thanks,

Jim R.

Thanks for these options. With these variable speed units, are they reasonably easy to configure the different speeds on-unit? I have a pent air easy touch control system - I didn’t install or wire it. Just trust it to turn on/off at certain times of day given the programming I set. Is it simple enough to just run at a variable speed motor at lower speed much longer periods vs say my 8 hour runtime (spring/summer) of a single speed 2.25 hour?

ajw22 said:

Sorry, no one appears to have advice for your situation.

I am not sure what you are looking for exists. If you find it, let us know.

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So the Evo 614IQ worked perfectly. I was able to hotspot it to my phone and make the schedule on it and confirm it works once its off wifi and bluetooth etc.

Calcium doesn't matter in a heat pump. Matters in a gas heater.
If it gives you peace of mind, a CH of 200 will hurt nothing.

Everything you described would only be impeding the suction side of the system, meaning it would only lead to lower filter pressure. I suspect the high filter pressure was due to the need for a backwash which you probably did at the same time, hence the lowering of filter pressure.

Vukota12 said:

Was very cloudy when I tested.

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AFTER sunset, BEFORE sunrise. Cloudy or not, there is UV. We are trying to take UV out of the equation.

3stacksOfHighSociety said:

Any suggestions on what pump, salt cell, and filter to buy?

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Need to tell me the service to the pump. Is it 115v or 230v options really change. See if it is on a single or double breaker,
Get the largest VSP you can afford and will fit your pad.
Get a cell that is 2x your pool volume.
Without automation the Circupool RJ-30+ would be perfect for you. You can get best price on discountsaltpool.com
I'd get a 425. Pentair Clean and Clear PLUS or the Waterway are both good filters.

3stacksOfHighSociety said:

Are the claimar pumps any good?

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Seems to be...many go that way because they can buy 3 of them for the price of the big brands.
Personally, I like pentair intelliflo3.

3stacksOfHighSociety said:

Do I need to keep it at 1.25 HP or should I run a more powerful pump?

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Get a 2.7 or 3hp. You run on low speed and a bigger pump will move same volume at lower speeds. Saves electricity. I spend about $20/month on electricity. In Florida will be important.

3stacksOfHighSociety said:

The only pipe that is labeled is the left side top which just says “skim” in sharpie. Can I open and close those valves while the pump is running to determine what they are?

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Yes, but NEVER dead head the pump.

3stacksOfHighSociety said:

The supply side should have one for the skimmer, one for the vac, and one for the bottom drain. I assume the return is just the jets and the waterfall. I didn’t think the jets would have two lines, but that makes sense.

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Yep.

Post up on the electrical service.
Do you have interest in automation in the future? That may change answers on pump/SWG.

This is what I have for getting stuff in the bottom of my tub.