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Weak pump? Build up?

R
There should be one or more diverter valves on the top shoulder of the spa. These divert water flow from one zone to another. Check there. If there are 2 on a single pump, one likely feeds the other, so you can expect some discrepancy without precise valve adjustment.
Also, jets draw in air which makes them feel stronger. If your air controls are turned down or the intake is blocked the jets on that line will feel less powerful.
Post pics of circuit board and wiring diagram so we can see what you've got in there.
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RPM changes for Intellitouch Not Holding when using phone or computer

P
petman said:
No alerts and everything has worked perfectly for years. System has literally been perfect until just recently. I tried deleting the app and reinstalling but maybe I should try that again. Should also note that when I try to change the speed on my Mac, it does the same thing as on the phone. Not sure if that helps at all. Maybe I will power it down and back up too. It isn't in the easiest place to get to but that may be worth a shot too.
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CCP520 Reading 4 PSI at 58 GPM — Is That Normal?

renanteperez
Hi All,

I just had a new Pentair CCP520 cartridge filter installed today by a pool company. My IntelliFlo3 VSF pump is currently running at ~70% speed and showing 58 GPM, but the filter pressure gauge reads only 4 PSI.
  • I already bled the air using the relief valve
  • Everything else seems normal — good flow at the returns, no visible air in pump basket.
  • The gauge is brand new and installed on the top of the filter.
I’ve seen some posts say “the lower the PSI the better,” but this feels too low for 58 GPM.

Is this normal for a brand-new CCP520, or should I assume the pressure gauge might be faulty?

Appreciate any insights from fellow pool owners.

Regards,
Renante
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renanteperez
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renanteperez
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Do I even need a valve?

PoolStored
Let's call @Mdragger88 and @zea3 and see what they think...

Putting a third valve #2 between pump and filter would isolate the pump, allowing you to clear the basket. However, if the MPV has a "closed" position, this would be the same. If the new filter has a closed position, then you would only need the closed position on the MPV and on the skimmer (one diverter). That would isolate the pump.

The biggest risk to all of this is starting the pump the diverters/MPVs closed, dead heading the pump.
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RPM changes for Intellitouch Not Holding when using phone or computer

P
japoolspa said:
That's the most recent version so you're good there.
Did you check min/max speeds on the pump?
Any system alerts or errors?
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No alerts and everything has worked perfectly for years. System has literally been perfect until just recently. I tried deleting the app and reinstalling but maybe I should try that again. Should also note that when I try to change the speed on my Mac, it does the same thing as on the phone. Not sure if that helps at all.
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Suction side plumbing leak advice?

S
You've got the idea. You'll likely end up buying more pipe than you need, even if they sell pretty short sections. Fittings are cheap. Get a spare coupler or two, and practice cutting and gluing with the spares and leftover so you know how it will go when you do it for real. The only hard part is if the pump can't move at all - then being 1/4" too long or short will be problematic. Some versions of couplers have a internal ring in the middle as a stop - so you have to account for that in your measuring. When assembling, push and twist the pipe into the fitting to get it to go full depth (to your mark, or a stop). Hold it tight for a bit - the pipe will want to push out of the fitting by itself until the glue grabs, making your planned length too long. Maybe not approved, but in a tight fit like yours may be, I undersize the length a bit (1/8") so I can get the final pieces in place and lined up, and allow that "push out" to make up the slight gap.
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Help Please - Aux Relays Not Working

ogdento
@81david you've got them the right way around

@Jimrahbe yes they relays get 24vdc once the 18 volt AC output from the transformer (which is more like 20/21 volts un-loaded) gets converted to DC through one of the bridge rectifiers toward the bottom right of the board. (Jim knows this but for others that might not - the 18vac output is used for the 24vdc relays because when you convert an AC voltage to DC through a bridge rectifier - which is a set of 4 interconnected diodes - and capacitors, the voltage is boosted a bit... so converting 18vac to dc gets you about 24, maybe a bit more without load)
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A little help please.... With 23K gallon inground pebble tech pool

J
TinFoilHat said:
The SWG will save you thousands of dollars in LC over the life of the unit. After the first cell dies down the road (after it has more than paid for itself) replacement cells have quicker paybacks. You have to play the long game with SWG. If you have no automation then a Circupool RJ 60 would be perfect for you. It is double the size of your pool which we recommend. You can usually get it from Discountsaltpools.com for a $10 upcharge from the RJ45. You will need to add a timer so that the SWG turns on AFTER the pump starts and turns off BEFORE the pump turns off so that the cell is not on without water flow. Easy peasy.
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Thank you, I really appreciate that advice! I think we are sold on the idea.

we have a timer on our main pump as well as on our pool sweep that uses a separate pump. I will research and learn more about those suggestions and see how I might be able to adapt it to our system.

On a side note, as we have algae (greenish / yellow?) starting to form on the east side of our pool wall, my thought is that it would be best to vacuum it off so it gets directly to the D.E. Filter and has less chance to spread rather than just brushing the algae to mix with the water and eventually it will get filtered. I just think vacuum would be the better way to go. I bought a brushed style pyramid looking vacuum with hose from a facebook seller for $25 and thought that might be the best immediate action to take along with adding the 3 ppm of LC each day. Does this sound good?
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Do I even need a valve?

R
PoolStored said:
The filter is before the filter. Closing the MPV on the filter will not stop water from pouring out the pump basket if you open it.

If you have a valve (I recommend a diverter) before the filter you will be fine. A diverter before the return, not after the pump before the filter, would be better to totally isolate your filter and pump would be best.

If you have one after the pump, before the filter, if you have to clean the filter or replace sand, you cannot stop the flow through the filter.
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Okay yea that makes sense.
I've cancelled the order for the ball and got 2 Pentair diverters on order.

You're recommending 3 though, basically skimmer > pipe > valve #1 > pump > pipe > valve #2 > filter > pipe > valve #3 > return.
Am I getting it correct?
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Sta-rite Max E Therm 333HD

wireform
JamesW said:
How much drop?
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Could be as much as 2.5 wc. What puzzles me is it worked like this the last few years and I only took over this pool last pool season so nothing would have changed other then a component within the heater, that's what my brain tells me. Yes, the meter on the house is tool small for all but when the pool season is on then the heat in the home is off and as I said before, it has been working flawlessly up to now.
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Do I even need a valve?

PoolStored
Richie-Czech said:
I'm talking about closing the multiport on the filter to stop the water from the return pushing back into pump basket.

Basically if I have a valve before and right after pump and close them both to clean the basket, it should limit additional pool water from coming in the same as a single valve + mpv in "closed" would accomplish, unless I'm misunderstanding what the mpv is capable of doing
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The filter is before the filter. Closing the MPV on the filter will not stop water from pouring out the pump basket if you open it.

If you have a valve (I recommend a diverter) before the filter you will be fine. A diverter before the return, not after the pump before the filter, would be better to totally isolate your filter and pump would be best.

If you have one after the pump, before the filter, if you have to clean the filter or replace sand, you cannot stop the flow through the filter.
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ajw22
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Do I even need a valve?

R
PoolStored said:
Yes.

Post a picture of what you call a multiport. An MPV, or multiport valve is usually on a sand filter, which is AFTER the pump. So even if the multiport is closed, when you open the pump lid on an AGP, water will drain through the pump. I think we are just crossing paths on terminology Looks like you have a cartridge filter.

Maybe fill out your signature?

Create Your Signature - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
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Yes, my current setup is cartridge. That's all old stuff and is getting replaced this weekend.

I do mean multiport on the sand filter yes.
I'm talking about closing the multiport on the filter to stop the water from the return pushing back into pump basket.

Basically if I have a valve before and right after pump and close them both to clean the basket, it should limit additional pool water from coming in the same as a single valve + mpv in "closed" would accomplish, unless I'm misunderstanding what the mpv is capable of doing
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Do I even need a valve?

PoolStored
Richie-Czech said:
By saying "medal" you're basically ranking them right?
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Yes.
Richie-Czech said:
And what I meant by the multiport, if it's in closed position then water from return shouldn't rush back into pump basket right?
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Post a picture of what you call a multiport. An MPV, or multiport valve is usually on a sand filter, which is AFTER the pump. So even if the multiport is closed, when you open the pump lid on an AGP, water will drain through the pump. I think we are just crossing paths on terminology Looks like you have a cartridge filter.

Maybe fill out your signature?

Create Your Signature - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
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