Bperry said:

The trouble with larger/smooth tube is that it doesn’t transfer heat as well.

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A larger diameter tube has more surface area and that causes better heat transfer.

A larger tube with the same surface area but smooth will have the same heat transfer but better hydraulic efficiency.

UV AOP system arrived today, will fit it next week.

Last question: CYA

We run between 15-25 PPM CYA as a moderator to reduce the harshness of our chlorine levels on the swimmers in our pool,

Would this negatively affect the AOP process or actually help, I'm thinking help as it'll protect the FC from being eaten by the UV but allow the CC to be removed by the system?

Is this the case or is there a change to CYA that would be required to achieve the best out of the UV system.

Cheers

H

I have had the Betta SE Plus for almost a year now (got it on sale and added 3 year warranty), and have had no issues besides one of the green flashing lights go out (will get it replaced if I need to send it in for functional issues).

After going through a season of falling leaves and pollen, that thing was a gamechanger.

Welcome aboard J! I've used them in several places. They're like the watch "they take a beating and keep on ticking" . They're dirt cheap and available at any big box store. There are many ways to accomplish this and many are dirt cheap to install if you are moderate DIY competent. Nicest thing about them is they are landscaping outdoor robust and since there's nothing "pool" in the name they're dirt cheap. Of course there are a few limitations so for limited use they can improve operation a lot at low cost!

Chris

alright we're up and running! everything went pretty smoothly...electrician cost me a fortune but is what it is.

i ran my first ever manual tests using the TF pro salt kit. here's what i got...and i have no idea how to use the pool math app yet...would love some coaching on that.

.5 FC
1 CC
CH 175
Alkalinity 90
Salt 600

i did put one bag of shock in 3 hours before testing.

Sorry for delayed response. golf trip and out of town work. I think I've pinpointed it to either the spider gasket or the handle itself on the multiport valve. I have a new unit arriving tomorrow.

Taylor is your gold standard...check out the salt accuracy of Leslie's +/-800, or a range of 1600!!!!!

JamesW said:

The titanium tube is about 30 feet of small diameter spiraled tube, which presents horrible head loss.

In my opinion, the tubing needs to be a lot bigger and smooth.

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The trouble with larger/smooth tube is that it doesn’t transfer heat as well. I’d expect then to have more than one tube if the tubing is much smaller than 2” diameter so they can get more water through in the same time.

We would send you to the pool store for free if they did better than Taylor. I have gotten exactly $0 from Taylor or TFT. Nate at TFP keeps adding 0s to my paycheck here but when the first # is also a 0, its mostly symbolic ($0.0000000000000 / etc). Still. Its the thought that counts.

But yeah. The poolstore test isnt designed for accuracy, its designed to sell chemicals, so we had you spend good money on a reliable kit to be able to test yourself. I had a newb who is now a friend that had 8 purchases suggested on his 'free' results. With clear water and reasonably in range. Accuracy is not in their MO and asking them only serves to make you question your own results.

I'll give you the only answer I've seen to be true over and over and over. Taylor 1766 is the one to go by. Remember it's accuracy (+/- 200 ppm I believe). None of the common tests are super accurate but The Taylor drop test is one to hang your hat on and plenty good for operation. Salt cell readings are notoriously inaccurate especially when they get deposits which of course you can't see. Pool store tests?? Well you know where we stand on that one!

Megarms said:

I know this has probably been rehashed, but I can not find anything recent.

I have been trying to decide how much salt to add to my pool, as my Taylor drop test says I am at 2800 ppm and the Jandy chlorinator says it is at 3500 ppm. Not wanting to add too much salt, I decided to take my water to the local pool store and compare tests. Well, to my surprise, many of the pool store tests (including salt which they say is 2400) were no where near what my Taylor drop tests have been.

So, here I sit again, wondering which test is the most accurate. Any thoughts?

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You know the answer.

I concur. Pollen.

*drumroll*


It was the switch! Got into the wiring box today. Loose wiring from quick connect use instead of side screws (I said what I said!!).
Everyone thank you for going on the journey with me lol.
Replacing the pump motor is definitely on the to do list, minus the capacitor popping, this is the first trouble I've had out of the pump! She doesnt whine or sound excessively loud when it runs. Either way, thanks again everyone

PoolStored said:

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Now I'm into the rabbit hole on figuring out equipment pad.
Wanted to get it all done this weekend, not sure if I can pour concrete by then. A simple pump and sand filter probably can't really sit on gravel ground like the cartridge system above, can it...

ajw22 said:

Connected Gas is for RS-485 heater control, not Fireman's Switch.

Firemans switch heater says Gas Heater, nit MasterTemp.

Delete your heater and add the Gas heater, and not MasterTemp.

Pentair manages to make this confusing.

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Thank you!

BTW what is the "Address"? I do not know what to put there.

More likely to be pollen than mustard algae, in my opinion.

Blaze70 said:

. Is there another wireless alternative to the iAqualink?

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AqualinkD is an open source alternative (but does require some knowledge/diy).

The titanium tube is about 30 feet of small diameter spiraled tube, which presents horrible head loss.

In my opinion, the tubing needs to be a lot bigger and smooth.

Really? Pollen gets this consistency? That would make me very very happy...I thought it might be mustard algae

So, just to confirm everything before I started fooling with the pump itself, I swapped the wires to the adjacent relay and the breaker did the same thing- tripped immediately. I disconnected the red and black pump wires from the relay, no tripping. I disconnected the SWG white and yellow wires from the relay (but left the red and black pump wires connected to the relay) and breaker immediately tripped. Seems that the pump is the issue.
What do you do to trouble shoot a pump? Does the capacitor go bad on these? The capacitor is not bulging. I can't check if the capacitor is humming because the breaker will not allow the motor to run. I also can't get that plastic rear cap off to look in there for water or something (it is loose, but won't come off). Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

Thanks everyone!