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Help identify pool light

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wef924 said:
Hi,
I am thinking about replace the pool light bulb with LED since it's not working. Can anyone please help me identify which brand or model it is? And is the Amazon pool light work as expected?
Ex:https://a.co/d/dfrs6M5
This is extra bright ~ 7000 lumens with 65W and don't know if this is recommended. 😮

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Pentair Amerilite, most common light in pools.
Those bulbs are incredibly bright and the light they emit is very white.
Be sure that you have a GFCI in the light circuit and that it isn't tripped. If it is tripped, reset it. If it continues to trip you probably need a complete new light.
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PoolStored
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Struggling to Clean Fine Dirt/Sand from Pool Floor – Better Options?

R
Hi folks,
I’ve been relying on my Polaris P945 robot cleaner, but even with the fine mesh filter canister (Polaris R0517800), I find that it doesn’t pick up all the fine sand/dirt. It feels like the robot stirs up the debris, and it just resettles later in the evening.
I don’t have a vacuum-to-waste setup from the skimmer—everything runs through the cartridge filter, which seems to let some of that fine dirt return to the pool.
I’m looking for a better solution to actually remove the fine dirt instead of just recirculating it. Ideally something that:
  • Sucks out dirt and discharges it outside the pool (even if it removes water)
  • Doesn't rely on the return line and cartridge filter
  • Could be manual or automatic
Any recommendations for equipment or techniques that work well for this kind of debris?

Thanks!
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Raypak temp sensor 3-wire green Replacement DIY

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saxon11 said:
Now says rollout SW open
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That means that either flame got out of the combustion chamber into the front of the heater. Its usually not actually a switch, but a fuse that pops and needs to be replaced if that happens.
Open the door, look on the lower left of the cabinet. Attached to the wall is one of these:
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You can test it with a meter. Remove the wires and check for continuity across the terminals. If you have continuity, make sure the wires to the part were not damaged, or disconnected at the board when the heater was reassembled when a repair was made. If all is good, it sounds like your board is going bad.

On a rare occasion, only once, I have seen an actual switch in place of that thermal fuse. It will look something like this and just needs the button pushed in to reset:
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You need to find out why flame is getting out of the chamber. If the heater wasn't running when this code popped up, check the wiring. If good it sounds like the board is going bad. Also, check the back of the control board. Lizards and large insects can get killed by the voltage at the board, or just get stuck and short out some of the wiring. Removing them sometimes clears the problem.
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Polaris P945 – Left Wheel Motor Burnt? Can It Be Replaced?

R
Hi everyone,

I have a Polaris P945 pool robot, and the left wheels stopped turning. I opened it up (removed the fan, back panel, etc.) and found that the motor on that side looks slightly burnt (Part #41JFS3146).
Is it possible to replace just this motor? Or is it sealed and not meant for repair? I’m also concerned about water leakage if I try to replace it myself.
The alternative seems to be replacing the whole motor assembly or backplate, which I believe costs over $500—at that point, I’m wondering if it’s worth just buying a new robot.
Questions:
  • Has anyone successfully replaced this motor before?
  • If not DIY, are there service shops that handle this kind of repair?
  • Any thoughts on whether the repair cost is worth it vs. replacement?
Thanks for any insight.
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Help with Hayward C3025 Pool Filter Cartridge Fitment Issue

R
Hi everyone,
I’m having a bit of trouble with my pool filter and hoping someone here can help.

I have a Hayward C3025 filter, which uses 4 cartridges. Two years ago, I bought a new set of replacement cartridges and stored them in my pool shed over the winter (unheated, outside). This season, when I went to install them, one of the cartridges didn’t fit properly—it was extremely tight and I had to force the lid down to close it. Now I’m concerned I may have damaged the filter housing or something at the bottom.

Here are the details:
  • Filter cartridges that I saw in the filter in 2023: UNICEL C-7477
  • Replacement I purchased: SpiroPure SP-PS-6440, which my notes say are compatible with the Hayward C3025
However, I don’t remember this much resistance last year. Even the internal rack that holds the cartridges on top before putting on the lid was harder to install than usual.

I have two main questions:
  1. Can filter cartridges shrink slightly from being stored over the winter (cold but dry conditions)?
  2. How do I confirm which specific cartridge brand/model I should be using?
    • Are generics like SpiroPure generally reliable, or is it better to stick with name-brand cartridges like Pleatco or Hayward?
Thanks in advance for any insights or advice!
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Tips on how to clean intelliPH acid injection fitting ?

tomas21
How much liquid do you all get when the pump pumps through the hose right before the check valve....?

I can see a good amount pumping just curious if there is a required amount of flow in order to make the injector work.

I found this in one of the Amazon reviews for this Stenner Injector used on a IntelliPH

"The Stenner Pump Company Injection Check Valve 1/4-Inch is designed for use with various systems. However, one customer mentioned that it may require too much pressure to flow when used with IntelliPH."
"Bought to use with IntelliPH, but it won't make it through (takes too much pressure to flow)."
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need help with 2 inch pvc repair on rooftop solar

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Dan-H said:
I think this might be better.
cut this out

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add two 2" 45s on the left, new tee, new pipe and coupler on the right

short pipe and coupler going down.

I can glue it left, bottom right as I have some wiggle room on the right
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That works. But, if you don't use a pipe extender the pipe going "down" out of the T will move the new T down about 1.5" and it won't line up with the rest of the plumbing. That's one of the reasons those extenders were made, so that a repair could line up with the rest of the plumbing.
Yes, a coupler and new, short piece of pipe on the left, will work and be less expensive. I generally have extenders on the brain and then when I get to a job I see how it could be done differently.
You really should, for ease of repair, cut the pipe flush at the bottom of the T and use an extender. You don't have the room to the right for the T to be placed lower and not have that pipe interfere with the one below it. It would, basically, line up with the lower pipe and leave no room for a fitting (45).
I don't like moving pipe that has been in the Sun, especially on a roof, too much as that can cause other leaks.
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saxon11
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need help with 2 inch pvc repair on rooftop solar

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1poolman1 said:
Before you try cutting and replacing, get some Plast-Aid, mix it a bit thin, pour it at the top of the fitting and let it run to the leak. You can put some tape at the bottom of the fitting so that the "liquid" will flow under the pipe. Then, mix it a bit thicker and apply it with your finger. Yeah, it will stick to skin, but comes off relatively easy. If you use gloves, they will just tear and make a mess
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Thanks. I'll look into this and see if I can find some local. amazon delivery is a week out.
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Another Mastertemp 400 question ....

T
I'm a fool, I see that I need to simply jumper across those two lower terminals, sorry.
Heater doesn't ignite, I can turn the unit on and off and there's a set point of 102 displayed, water temp is way below that, in the 70s.

When the heater worked, we used the ET remote to turn on amd off and to set desired temp. I could check the MT panel display and see the temp slowly rising.
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Immediate Pressure Loss after Pump Turns Off

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jlosurdo said:
Hi there,

Earlier this spring, I had low pressure in my system. The systems had low pressure from the bubbler and consistent air bubbles from the returns.

It turned out that the 17-year-old pump basket lid had some leaks. I replaced the lid, and everything seemed to be working fine.

Last week, however, my pool stopped responding to the automation system. The "Filter" would turn off, but everything would keep running. I had similar issues in January, having the issue diagnosed as the 3HP Relay (by a professional), but due to a shipping issue, I never received the replacement part. Nevertheless, the issue went away for a while.

Last week, the system stopped responding after the automation cycle ended, or I manually tried to turn it off at the control panel and the remote control device. Flipping the circuit breaker was the only way I could get it to turn off. I have been doing this manually for the last two weeks while I waited for the part to come in. The part came in earlier this week, and I planned to replace it today.

Here is when things get weird, and I don't know where to troubleshoot.

Last night, my daughter wanted to use our spa, so I manually turned the pool on, flipped it to spa mode, turned the heater on, and everything worked. When they were done, I turned the heater off, put it back to pool mode, and then turned everything off with the circuit breaker. Fast forward to this morning, I replaced the relay, which was pretty straightforward; however, when I went to turn the pump on with the controller, it came on, but the pump had lost its entire prime. I go through the procedures to get it primed again, and it starts humming with very strong pressure. But...when I turn it off, there is an immediate "whooshing" noise, and the system's pressure disappears almost immediately. I then have to prime it to get it going.

Do you have any ideas at all? I don't know if something happened when I switched to spa mode last night (for the first time all season) or if there is another issue. I don't think it is the lid because when the pump is running, the pressure is perfect.

Any help is appreciated before I call a pool tech and spend a bunch of money. Thanks.
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Single-speed pump? How large? When was the filter last cleaned? What is the pressure on the filter tank when running?
If the filter is dirty, or it is in spa mode with water trying to go through the 1/4" spa-jet orifices, the excess pressure in the system will go somewhere when the pump turns off. The path with least resistance is back through the pump and into the pool. It will take the water in the pump with it.
You need to find out why there is so much pressure.
With the pump on you may even see the filter tank expand a bit.
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