PoolStored said:

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phonedave said:

That is basically my set up as well. A valve on the suction and a valve on the return. My valves are also unions. - Kaplan valves. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BQT1Q6F?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_2&th=1

As far as Kaplans being "Bronze Medal", I have a 27' ABG with one skimmer and one return, its not a 100,000 gallon lazy river. No need to let perfection get in the way of good enough. My Kaplan ball valves with union ends do just fine.

Actually I lied, I have three valves. One suction, one return, and one on the backwash port of my DE filter, because it is easier than a plug and was $30.

To clean my pump skimmer basket, I only have to close the suction side. My DE filter has a built in backflow preventor inside of it to prevent DE from flowing backwards into the pump.

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I had the Kaplan valves in my cart ready to arrive, but on very short notice changed it for the Pentair ones.
I keep being told ball valves are no bueno, so by the time I pay $40 for a 2" Kaplan, decided to pay $50 for a 2" Pentair I guess.

I have only single skimmer and single return. No other equipment or water features. This pump should hopefully run under very light load now.

I do have a question for I guess everyone to see if my plumbing makes sense and some questions:

1) I will keep a simple single 90deg directly to pump. Pump comes with unions, which is great. Would you for the return notch into the deck to be able to run virtually a single 90deg, or would you go from filter down under deck with 1x 90, up with another 90 and then 90deg to the wall of the return? I know / think you're not supposed to have more than 3x 90deg in one line right?
Nothing the deck shouldn't be an issue, but seems risky. I think the pad will make the MPV sit just tish too high to clear all decking without cutting or 90s. I don't want to do flex pipe anymore.


2) Unions - pump has union on basket side and on the filter side. If I do a valve between skimmer and basket (to clean out basket) and one between filter and return, I should be good? I might even get away with just one valve and closing MPV. That should stop water from pool to fill the basket from either direction, but a valve on return side would allow me to isolate all equipment without use of rubber stoppers (which I don't mind, really).

I guess I don't understand unions enough. My thought was it helps with removal of equipment. Pump might stay outside, not sure yet. In any case it has unions on both sides, so that's fine.
I don't think putting unions on each side of the Pentair valve makes sense though, does it? Because don't you glue in a pipe into the valve anyway, in which case union does really provide any value?
Or is it so it can be "spun" in place while you remove piping from the filter for example?

Please see below my plan and tell me if it is silly.
I think valve 1 (V1) on skimmer side is must. V2 on the return side is optional, I'd think (stoppers might do).
U1 and U2 are unions on the pump.
Do I need U3 and U4, i.e. unions on the filter? I think I need a 1-1/4" threaded fitting adapter into 2" PVC, but not sure if I want unions here too?

That is the lid off the Sta-Rite OptiFlo.

Use a dental tool or an awl, it may or may not come out in one piece. It is severely degraded Try not to scratch the lid. By the looks of it, it needs to be replaced.


New o-ring:
New Lid:

I waited about a minute. Just tried again and it seems to be slowly leaking out the valve when opened. Attached pics.

I also replaced the display. The board had other issues like, not keeping correct time and dates and not keeping set timers for pump. Pump was coming on at random times. After board replacement, everything started working correctly except cell power. Display reads 0.00V, 0.00a, 79 degrees F, and 0000PPM.

I bet it's going to be a hot commodity or the prices will be jacked up due to demand. Last winter was finally a "real" winter here where the few prior were mild in comparison, so I bet a lot of people are in the same boat with a bent rail or two that need to be replaced this year if they winterize.

Pentair see attached

I just purchased a refurbished Dolphin E10 from Maytronics website for $399. It’s a plug-in and about as basic as they come but is $100 off new list price. My vac plate cracked so I broke down and got this. It comes with a 1 year warranty.

Jeff,

Just out of curiosity, with that calibration(Intellicenter 1 degree warmer than heater), does your pump ramp down to normal speed prematurely then too?

-Mike

Metal,

In your original post you said you could not turn on the bubbler from the app..

Wiring your pump to the wrong side of the Aux relay should not cause that issue, but I agree with JamesW..

The first thing you need to do is find the Aux1 relay that controls the bubbler pump.. Your pump appears to be wired to the Load side of the relay (Pins 2 and 4) You need to move the wires from the load side, over to the Line side (Pins 1 and 3).. This will provide constant AC power to the pump.. The pump will still be controlled by the RS-485 cable..

The reason you get the Alarm is because you are basically taking the power away from the pump when you turn off Aux1.. This is also why you have no display when Aux1 is off..

Let's see if that solves your issue or if you still can't control the pump from your app.

Thanks,

Jim R.

You are not the first this year looking for that exact rail.

No worries, guess I was openly wondering for the good of the thread LOL
Thanks for the link and getting me on the right path searching @PoolStored

Hayward or aftermarket board?

Maybe the board was not wired correctly.

Show the wiring.

Sorry I missed that you had replaced the board.

So you basically have replaced everything except for the display?

Do you have a volt meter?

Measure AC voltage across the yellow leads from the transformer.

Dunno, just making suggestions.

What model DE filter and air relief valve are we discussing?

If air comes out of the air relief valve, then it is not clogged. How long did you keep it open while waiting for water?

Post pictures of your pool equipment, filter and valves.

The main board is brand new, and no signs of being burnt. Do you think I should still attempt to re-solder?

Wonder if this one would work too