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Trouble With FC Test TF-Pro Kit

S
Nitrates don't matter at all. Sure, can be algae food, but if you have no algae (and keep it away with adequate CL in the future)....

You likely may not have Ammonia. @JamesW , who is the experts expert, doesn't seem to think so. If you have CYA showing close to what you had before, and you can pass the quick CL test mentioned in the ammonia article, you're good there.

With a lower CYA, the target for a SLAM is lower, so not as much liquid to go through. Your pool problem, visually, looks mild. I've had far, far worse (in my bad chlorine tablet days). Start with a couple of cases, if the drive to get it isn't too bad. It will cost you less than the high $$ Cal-Hypo you've been using.
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Salt cell replacement

Rancho Cost-a-Lotta
Ccorbin28 said:
several reviews of the CP RJ-60+ talked about switching from Jandy 1400 and how the size was the same but the threads were different
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I've heard mixed comments about thread compatibility. Contact their support line and ask, they are usually pretty quick to respond. Otherwise, when you receive the unit see if it fits, if not cut out the old couplers and replace with the new.

This unit also comes with a flow switch and fitting. You may be able to remove the flow switch out of the fitting and replace your existing flow switch. That would make things a bit more easy.
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Why are diverters built this way?

K
Bperry said:
And I’m now guess this is the valve that is coming right off the pool so if it’s removed, all the water drains out? If so, you may be able to plug the line from inside the pool and do it, or do it later if it’s not a pressing issue.
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Yeah it's not a pressing issue, it's more of an annoyance each time I vacuum because I shut the main bottom drain. It's something I can live with for a summer but will look into fixing after the pool is closed for the winter since I have other changes to the piping that would improve the maintenance experience overall.
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Getting Started and Mineral Unit

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wobuzhudao said:
. What is your opinion about using an algaecide like mineral unit?
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Welcome! Sadly they are a complete waste of money and can cause staining depending on what minerals are being added. If you have algae, it means the chlorine level is too low for how much stabilizer is in the water. Here’s an article about it:

www.troublefreepool.com

The Free Chlorine and Cyanuric Acid Relationship

Managing your cyanuric acid and Free Chlorine levels is key to stabilizing your pool. Learn how these two items affect each other.
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
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pool bond sheer issues(now repairing)

ajw22
diat150 said:
Should I use the laticrete as the “grout” between the tiles or is there a better product?
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Are you asking about pool waterline tiles or coping? It is getting confusing.

diat150 said:
If so, should I put all of coping down and then come back and fill between the lines between the coping or is it best to do it all at once ?
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You should butter the sides of the coping as you lay them to fill the gaps. You will never stuff the gaps fully if you try after.
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Pool opened test results

R
ajw22 said:
How did you measure a CH of 72????

You need a CH of at least 200 with a gas heater to protect the heat exchanger.

Calcium Hardness - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com


Yes, you're safe to swim.

With CYA 60 you are safe to swim with FC below 24.
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rackydoo said:
Maybe a messed up the CA test . I will retest.
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I retested Calcium Hardness is at 125. Looks Like I will need to raise it!
Thanks
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Why are diverters built this way?

B
kb22 said:
Yeah it's an above ground pool and all the equipment is below the water level so gravity is working against me.
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And I’m now guess this is the valve that is coming right off the pool so if it’s removed, all the water drains out? If so, you may be able to plug the line from inside the pool and do it, or do it later if it’s not a pressing issue.
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SPA Light Turning on by Itself

ajw22
Tubbs said:
I have cleared all the programs, turned on the landscape lighting as the
power for them come from the Aqualink box but that did not turn on the spa light.
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Tubbs said:
It’s not really thru the AL I just disconnected the power at the old junction box and moved it to the new transformer is does go thru the GFI on the Aqualink box
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Then why did you ask about the Aqualink not turning on the spa light?

Any problems with your light turning on or off are from the PAL remote.
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What did you do to your pool today?

jark87
Newdude said:
I tested after 3 days of blazing sun and not only was my FC a single digit, but it wasn't even a 9. Eight point five.

TIA for any thoughts and prayers during these difficult times.
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I’m expecting similar results over the next few days. Forecast in the 90s, including 98° tomorrow. FC has been hovering at 10.5-11. I haven’t decreased the SWG because the weather has been so mild and lots of cloudy days. Sun will be blazing today and tomorrow. Even though I have CYA at 70 (I think….stupid dot test), FC will more than likely finally get below 10.

The pool was surprisingly easy to balance once I pulled the cover off. I know I had a mild algae issue over the winter, probably lingered from the end of last season. I was having to run the SWG at a much higher rate than normal all winter, so I thought I was in for a difficult opening. But opened up, vacuumed thoroughly, brushed constantly, SLAMMED for a few days and passed OCLT twice. All in all, it took about a week. I then raised CYA over the course of a few days. Pool is ready for some hot days!
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Getting Started and Mineral Unit

W
My weeks of free pool service is up in a few weeks, and I'm gearing up to take over. I'll be going though the Taylor tests this week to get practice and to check the company's work.

Any first tips that aren't generally found on the site here are welcome. But one specific question... The service company recommended getting a mineral unit because they saw a little algae on the wall. I wasn't there at the time, and I'm having trouble finding where they were seeing it. What is your opinion about using an algaecide like mineral unit?
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Salt Cell Replacement?

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rthompson869 said:
Yes, the levels continue to fall. There is some build up on the leads and, what seems to be, burning on the salt cell.
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Look up the specific test that I was referring to. The acronym is OCLT. The salt cell should be off when that test is being done. If you have an oncoming algae outbreak, it will consume more chlorine than Cell can produce and that’s what the test helps determine. Chlorine levels that are falling doesn’t necessarily mean that your salt cell is bad.
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Circupool Core Control 55 Initial Thoughts

E
i'm two days into using the core control unit... the app is very lackluster at the moment. There's a pool cover option that just stays open...no way to adjjust or edit, just annoys me. i know it will expand as the automation system expands but for right now all it will show you is if it's on and what the output is. you can adjust the output and click turbo but for now that's about it.
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Why are diverters built this way?

B
kb22 said:
Can I do it now that the pool is open or should I wait until after i have closed it for the year? I feel like this is something I can't fix now that the pool is running for fear of water spewing out uncontrolled during the repair.
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You need to shut the pump off to make any kind of plumbing repairs. I just replumbed my old system last week. It’s probably fine unless your equipment had is located below the water level of the pool.
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hayward wlan connectivity issues --- my own hacky solution

4
just thought i'd post here to share my hackup solution -- probably gonna get flamed here for this but here it is.

ive had "connection" issues with my app <--> omnilogic. basically hayward wlan bridge status seems OK except the "ext antenna" status keeps going "disconnected" <> "connected". When its disconnected obviously hayward app doesnt work. Sometimes i'd luck out and it works for days and sometimes weeks. But it just goes disconnected at the most inopportune time (like on vacation). I thought maybe its my wifi/router issue -- tried IP reservation, no dhcp, to ensure no IP conflicts .. I tried rebooting home network entirely. I even tried using a totally different BRAND of home router with 2/5/6ghz wifi just to rule out some kind of issue with my home network.... Worse yet, i even tried buying a brand new hayward wlan bridge. I wiggled cables.. made sure antenna is screwed in right... i upgraded firmware on omnilogic. I reseated the pppoe connection to the power pins on omnilogic. I changed network eth cables inside the omnilogic panel. I've tried everything all these forums suggested i think.... As for 2ghz wifi, my sonos speaker , audio cast, and securitycam wyze which all run under 2ghz seems to have no trouble out in the pool shed so i was not sure why Hayward has so much trouble!!!!

I wasnt in the mood to dig a long trench and go fixed wired eth into my pool shed so i did something a bit more hacky. i ended up ripping out the Hayward wlan, removing pppoe adapter inside panel. changed the omnilogic to "wired" mode (config wizard). Then directly plugged the eth on omnilogic panel , to a cheap "hot spot" router's lanport. The hotspot router was connected to my main 5ghz wlan which is really strong signal in my yard. So omnilogic thinks its wired but its only wired to the hotspot local lan ---> which in-turn serves internet via wifi.

Anyway so far, so good (?knockwood?) -- a couple weeks of rock solid omnilogic app connectivity on my phone and webbrowser. hope this helps anyone with similar problems.

for the record i bought this little thing on amazon

GL.iNet GL-SFT1200 (Opal) Secure Travel WiFi Router – AC1200 Dual Band Gigabit Ethernet Wireless Internet​

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Salt cell replacement

setsailsoon
If you're doing this DIY Circupool is an easy choice. They're great on cost in terms of $/# output. And warranty is very limited for DIY with all major brands. Read the fine print and you'll see what I mean. Warranty is especially important for swg units since all brands seem to have a few early fails on the swg cell. I think it's because the manufacturing process is complex. Both of my Circupool choices have worked out great for me and many others on here. There are other 3rd party units that seem to perform well for owners on here so check them all out. Last time I checked DiscountSaltpool.com had a deal to upgrade to the next larger unit for $10. This is a promo they run several times per year and I've been able to get it that way both times. DSP also has a handy dandy chart that compares most brands. Makes the shopping much easier.

Chris
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Are Dolphins terrible or am I doing it wrong?

Drew80
Kaptain said:
To me it's strange. I got my first Pentair Prowler in 2017 and it ran great until the summer of 2024; back and forth problem. I tore into it and found out it was the motor driving the impeller which is typical. In the summer my Prowler is 80% in the pool 20% on the deck, and 100% inside fall/winter. I have no clue how I had so many trouble free years.
Back to 2024. Talking to the pool store owner about my issue he said that "it's common and time to buy a new one" which is why he does not sell them anymore "I have a pile of warranty returns in the back to prove it." I asked if I could salvage parts from them to fix mine and he told me to take them.
I will try to recall what I found: Out of the 7 I brought home 2 had bad cords, I believe 3 had bad power units, and the last 2 were a combination of bad cords and water damaged impeller motors. I ended up fixing mine, giving it to a buddy and keeping the best one for myself. I also had more power units than bots which leads me to believe they can be troublesome.
If I learned anything last summer from tearing 8 of these apart it is this:
  • The cords are expensive and the swivel will fail. Maybe cleaning and lubing it yearly will extend its life.
  • Impeller motor will eventually happen, but as I mentioned above it's fixable.
  • The power box is also likely to fail but easily diagnosed. It outputs 30v. Keep this out of the sun!!!!
  • The guts in the bot is the same across all 3 models with the exception of the 920. The mainboard is a different rev that does not have blue tooth. Power units are different as well.
  • Keep the impeller free of debris; there are youtube videos on this.
I purchased two motor rebuild kits last summer to fix what I have; still in the box. The repair doesn't look too bad but does require some soldering and a small bearing puller. I imagine this is where some folks will tap out and buy a new one. With what I have piled up in my basement I am confident that I will run mine for another decade. I just snagged up a brand-new cord on marketplace last weekend for 85 bucks.

@Drew80 I believe the unit I kept out of the 7 was less than 1 year old. Not a scratch on it and nothing was faded from being in water. Not sure why it was warrantied, I tossed it in my pool plugged it in and off it went...
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@Kaptain, I'm confused. Are we talking about a Pentair unit or a Dolphin?
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Salt cell replacement

C
Rancho Cost-a-Lotta said:
The CP unit just needs switched power, 115v or 230v. It comes set up for 230v, but needs to be manually configured to work with 115v.
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okay I don't want automation so I'm leaning towards the CP RJ-60+
I will have to look when I get home later today to see what my power sources are but I know I have 3 breakers right by my pool equipment, so I don't see that being an issue

several reviews of the CP RJ-60+ talked about switching from Jandy 1400 and how the size was the same but the threads were different so you cut pipe past the union, install the compatible threads for the CP and everything should be good right?

i can include pictures of everything tonight to try to help as well if needed
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Do I need to turn off the SWG every time I add chemicals to balance water?

K
Hey folks,

Simple question I think but if I am ever adding Baking Soda, Borax, CYA, Muriatic Acid, etc to my pool. Do I need to turn off my SWG before adding this chemicals? First time owning a pool and I was told to turn off the SWG for 24 hours when adding salt to the pool, I was wondering if the same principle applies to other chemicals I might need to add to the water to balance it.
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