Questions about free chlorine

Good call on the poolmath👍🏻
You can toggle on “sharing” in the poolmath settings and we will be able to see your logs through a link without you having to post them. (Click my avatar to see mine)

Its safe to have fc anywhere between minimum and slam level for your cya.
  • "Min FC" is 7.5% of the CYA level
  • "Target FC" is 11.5% of the CYA level
  • "SLAM FC" is 40% of the CYA level
A couple issues arise with cya so high though…
If there’s an algae problem its quite impractical and expensive to treat it properly (do the slam process)
&
At maintenance/target fc levels above 10ppm it skews the ph results which means you are torn between accuracy with ph and sanitary conditions.
The sooner you perform a water exchange to get cya down to a reasonable level the better as it will result in a much simpler path.
Do the diluted cya test procedure as poolstored linked to get a better estimate on how much water you need to exchange.
Also i think i did she sharing right for anyone to see my results.

Questions about free chlorine

Good call on the poolmath👍🏻
You can toggle on “sharing” in the poolmath settings and we will be able to see your logs through a link without you having to post them. (Click my avatar to see mine)

Its safe to have fc anywhere between minimum and slam level for your cya.
  • "Min FC" is 7.5% of the CYA level
  • "Target FC" is 11.5% of the CYA level
  • "SLAM FC" is 40% of the CYA level
A couple issues arise with cya so high though…
If there’s an algae problem its quite impractical and expensive to treat it properly (do the slam process)
&
At maintenance/target fc levels above 10ppm it skews the ph results which means you are torn between accuracy with ph and sanitary conditions.
The sooner you perform a water exchange to get cya down to a reasonable level the better as it will result in a much simpler path.
Do the diluted cya test procedure as poolstored linked to get a better estimate on how much water you need to exchange.
Thank you so much for all the the detailed info! I'm going to read through everything that has been sent. And I just bought more chlorine so I can add it tonight. We had our pool built almost 2 years ago and over the last several months I've really been learning a lot more through this site on how to keep everything maintained.

Questions about free chlorine

I tested my water using the Taylor test kit and I guessed at my CYA being 120 because it didn't get up to the 100 mark but there weren't any marks that went higher than 100.
Ok, lets do this. Read this ENTIRE article, then test your CYA starting at #8. Let's get an accurate CYA to know what to do next.

Replacement climbing rings Maytronic M400

Are you talking about tracks that go on the "wheels" ?
Maddie,
I think the OP means these:
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To the OP, looks like the rings on Amazon.se are about $20 USD, or $220Kr. That is about as good as it gets. I have used both aftermarket and OEM in the past. I liked the OEM, but I had both good and bad with the aftermarket (one set was fine the other struggled). Hope that helps!

76965286852__90B742E2-3D6E-4D82-A0A8-A0548EF813A1.jpeg

IMG_4442.jpeg

IMG_4443.jpeg

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Questions about free chlorine

Absolutely. Do it now.

Read this article:

How did you get 120? How are you testing your water. I would recommend that you retest starting at #8 here:
I tested my water using the Taylor test kit and I guessed at my CYA being 120 because it didn't get up to the 100 mark but there weren't any marks that went higher than 100.

Pool paint / epoxy - how to safely empty pool?

Welcome to TFP.



CYA > 90 dilution Test​

For CYA > 90ppm, repeat the test, adjusting the procedure as follows:
  1. Fill the mixing bottle with pool water to the lower mark (15 ml line).
  2. Continue filling the mixing bottle with tap water to the upper mark (30 ml line).
  3. Shake briefly to mix.
  4. Pour off half of the contents of the mixing bottle so it is again filled to the lower mark (15 ml line).
  5. Continue the test normally by adding R-0013, but multiply the final result by two.
If you need to dilute the pool water further, then apply these ratios:

Pool waterTap or distilled waterMultiply result by
112
123
145
Note that when doing a diluted test, you multiply the range of the test and the error rate of the test, so the results are a ballpark—not an absolute.

See CYA Testing for tips on how to read the test results.


You have a Hybrid Pools - Further Reading
For simplicity I just mix up a batch of water with one cup of pool water and one or two cups of distilled water then use that mixed amount for your testing, according to dilution you need to use for testing.

Works great (with distilled water) also for chlorine testing if you run out of DPD powder.

OCLT good…but algae still in pool

You will have algae in your water for quite a while as you kill if off day by day. Don't forget it will be hiding in your skimmer, on the weir door, in your pool returns, in the pool light, in the main drain cover, in the autofill, etc. All of those need to be scrbbed and cleaned with chlorinated water. This is a slog but it gets better as you go on.

Calcium Precipitate

Will keep up the acid work. I use water from the tap as fill water. The CH of tap is around 165 here in Vegas, from my faucet anyway. Which is way lower than my 425. Is there a thread describing options for softening water? I'll look into the FAS-DPD kit. My reagents are only DPD. I'll try and find the one TFP sells. This one is about 1.5 yrs old. So, probably should get a new one. In addition, I can't detect lower than 7.0 PH on my test kit. Does the TFP kit indicator show sub 7.0?
The TF-Pro Salt will serve you well.

pH needs to be kept in the 7's. Usually 7.2-7.9 range, based on your other test results.

You can install a whole house water softener and plumb it to your autofill line.
Or you can install a portable RV style softener near your autofill feed line. But the portable softener will need more frequent recharging and it's a manual operation.

Calcium Precipitate

The CH of tap is around 165 here in Vegas, from my faucet anyway. Which is way lower than my 425.
Evap and fill will still raise your CH, even with 165 fill. CH doesn't go away, it accumulates.
Softening water is getting a water softener and using the output of the softener to refill/autofill your pool. CH will be 0 or close and won't add CH.
If your reagents are 1.5yrs old, in Vegas, I'd get this kit and don't look back. Link-->TF-Pro Salt
Keep it in a cool, dry (vegas duh), dark location and they will last longer.
Yes, it will show you if pH is lower than 7 on the comparator. Will not tell you how much below...

What do I select for Sanitizer in the PoolMath app if I use CalHypo Shock Treatment?

I'm not talking about the options to know how much to add but the Sanitiser type question that is under Settings.
Ahhhh. OK. Use liquid chlorine for the pool settings sanitation type.

Its because SWG pools have higher CYA targets. The other forms of chlorine are all the same.
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What do I select for Sanitizer in the PoolMath app if I use CalHypo Shock Treatment?

You will evaporate 1 to 1.5 times (or more) of your pool volume yearly.
Solids (calcium included) will remain.
Don't use CalHypo or an other type of solid chlorine in the PHX area.

Test you fill water with your own test kit?
Report ph, TA and CH here.

A SWG is the easiest and cheapest way to chlorinate a pool in the desert.
Liquid chlorine works just fine in our area - I used it for 10+ years before converting to a SWG.
If liquid chlorine is burning off that fast for you, possibly your CYA needs to be increased. I ran my CYA at 50 (sometimes 60) when I used liquid chlorine.

Post a full set of current test results as requested in post #5

Calcium Precipitate

Great. As our use of fill water increases, you will need to add acid 2 or 3 times per week to try and drop the TA.
I hope you are using softened water for make up water, keeps the CH levels in check.

Also consider getting a FAS-DPD kit so you can measure FC accurately.
Will keep up the acid work. I use water from the tap as fill water. The CH of tap is around 165 here in Vegas, from my faucet anyway. Which is way lower than my 425. Is there a thread describing options for softening water? I'll look into the FAS-DPD kit. My reagents are only DPD. I'll try and find the one TFP sells. This one is about 1.5 yrs old. So, probably should get a new one. In addition, I can't detect lower than 7.0 PH on my test kit. Does the TFP kit indicator show sub 7.0?

IMG_3877.jpeg

What do I select for Sanitizer in the PoolMath app if I use CalHypo Shock Treatment?

Welcome to TFP! :wave:

Don't use CalHypo to chlorinate in the PHX area.
Our fill water tends to be high in calcium to begin with. And with our high evaporation rates the calcium level of the pool water will increase pretty quickly.

How are you testing your pool water?
Test Kits Compared

Post a full set of current test results from your own test kit
FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA
Salt (if you have a SWG)
Water Temperature
Hello, thanks. Liquid Chlorine does not hold here in the Phoenix area so that's why I use CalHypo. What are your suggestions for chlorine type for Phoenix? I am using Taylor kit k-2006.

IMG_3878.jpeg

What do I select for Sanitizer in the PoolMath app if I use CalHypo Shock Treatment?

Welcome to TFP!

Not do derail the topic, but I'm curious how are you managing your CH levels? Most people in Arizona have trouble keeping their CH down when using liquid chlorine or an SWG, it must really rise fast if you're adding calcium every day.
I don't add calcium every day. I add about a 2 bags of CalHypo every week sometimes a bit more frequent. I just refilled my pool and Calcium was in the 80s to begin with. I usually drain my pool every two years to avoid high Calcium numbers.

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