Any ideas what could cause this
- By Justinlee124
- Everything Else
- 3 Replies
Thanks for the response, it was not left out and I did replace with a new hose and it did the same thing. It is almost like the heater stopped taking water through.
What is strange is. i backwash and rinse. And while there’s air still in the basket, I have really good pressure. After a few hours, it’s almost nonexistent.Variable
Thanks, we'll check that.Are you 100% sure you don’t have a simple, fixable problem such as a bad capacitor? Ours needs replaced every few years. Super easy & cheap.
We haven't had any sun here all day, clouds and overcast. I'm guessing there is still enough UV to eat up chlorine, though. I'll take the reading tonight, but sunrise is 5:30a and it'll be raining, so not sure I'll get to that one on time.What is the date on the liquid chlorine?
It doesn't matter if you hit your target or not what does matter is that
1) you have a valid reading above 3 to start the night, and
2) the first test for OCLT is AFTER sunset and
3) your test in the morning is before sunrise.
VariableIs your hayward pump a single speed or VS?
Jim, thanks for understanding!Brant,
A filter is a filter, just use the one you want..
I personally like large cartridge filters as they only need to be cleaned once a year..
Others here would rather die than give up their DE filters..
And... many, like you, love their sand filters..
I think some of us might get a little passionate about why my Ford filter is better than your Chevy filter, but hope we never berate someone for their choice..
Three, 3 HP VS pumps... I can see why you might be a little concerned about the electrical costs...
In my opinion, saltwater is the only way to go.
Thanks,
Jim R.
Follow the SLAM process to clear the pool...Link-->SLAM ProcessI’m going to test the pool with my trouble free pool kit this weekend to get accurate readings but I’m curious if there’s anything I can do ahead of time or during maintenance over the weekend to help.
Checked and relubed o rings. Same issue.With pump off, remove the pump basket lid. Complete clean all mating surfaces and the lid O-ring. Be sure its squeaky clean and totally free of any debris. Lube the O-ring with a silicone lube (like MagicLube II). Reinstall the O-ring in the lid and reinstall the lid on the pump. Turn on pump to re-prime the system and let us know if the issue is resolved or not.
I would let it sit at 8.2 as long as the CSI was good.I would love to just let the ph ride at 8.2 but I’ve never felt confident to do that based on things I’ve read online saying you shouldn’t leave the ph that high.
Everything?Does CSI trump everything else?
It is not a magic number, but it does a pretty good regarding scaling and plaster protection.Is it possible for anything to go wrong if the CSI is normal?
Add chlorine, test 30 minutes later to verify that you reached your projected FC.
If you didn't reach projected FC, either your chlorine is weak or your pool volume is off.
No. Keep slamming. Go back and read slam exit criteria which includes a clear pool that looks like these...Link-->How Clear is TFP Clear?The question is, am I done? Did I get lucky and achieve the desired result even thought I didn't keep the level up at 24? And if not, is there something else I should do to be sure?
They are not, and if they are 5 years old the reagents are likely bad and reporting incorrectly. You will save yourself a lot of time and money with a good kit. I'd get a proper kit, including salt test before you make additions other than adding some chlorine. If you overshoot salt, you will be replacing water.I mentioned the kits I have above... probably not optimal so I intend to get a better kit. Have not done any pool store testing.
Good idea. Though, she might think I'm trying to pawn duties off on her.This^^^ and I have taught my wife how to do the testing in the event that I can't at some point in life. I learned that from another member here who lost her husband and all the knowledge he had about the pool.
By all means do what the manufacturer wants. My cell wants 3000. I thought that's what you were shooting for. Still, go easy to avoid overshooting.If I set the goal in PoolMath to a target of 3000 for salt, then it recommends 80 more lbs.
I had the goal at 3600 for salt, b/c that's what the Pentair IC-40 docs recommended. Maybe that's overkill?
I think that your pool is close to 34,000 lbs based on my calcs.
How are you testing your water. We recommend that you have your own kit. Recommended kits. Link-->Test Kits Compared
I would not make additions based on pool store testing.