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stacy78132 · Thursday at 8:43 PM

Mdragger88 said:
Good call on the poolmath
You can toggle on “sharing” in the poolmath settings and we will be able to see your logs through a link without you having to post them. (Click my avatar to see mine)

Its safe to have fc anywhere between minimum and slam level for your cya.

"Min FC" is 7.5% of the CYA level

"Target FC" is 11.5% of the CYA level

"SLAM FC" is 40% of the CYA level

A couple issues arise with cya so high though…
If there’s an algae problem its quite impractical and expensive to treat it properly (do the slam process)
&
At maintenance/target fc levels above 10ppm it skews the ph results which means you are torn between accuracy with ph and sanitary conditions.
The sooner you perform a water exchange to get cya down to a reasonable level the better as it will result in a much simpler path.
Do the diluted cya test procedure as poolstored linked to get a better estimate on how much water you need to exchange.

Also i think i did she sharing right for anyone to see my results.

PoolStored · Thursday at 8:42 PM

First picture, handle facing to 9 o'clock.
See where it says "off" on the tab on the handle? That is where the gate is. So handle at 3 o'clock, tab with "off" at 9 o'clock means main drain is off.
When handle at 9 o'clock and tab with "off" at 3 o'clock, skimmer is off.

stacy78132 · Thursday at 8:42 PM

Mdragger88 said:
Good call on the poolmath
You can toggle on “sharing” in the poolmath settings and we will be able to see your logs through a link without you having to post them. (Click my avatar to see mine)

Its safe to have fc anywhere between minimum and slam level for your cya.

"Min FC" is 7.5% of the CYA level

"Target FC" is 11.5% of the CYA level

"SLAM FC" is 40% of the CYA level

A couple issues arise with cya so high though…
If there’s an algae problem its quite impractical and expensive to treat it properly (do the slam process)
&
At maintenance/target fc levels above 10ppm it skews the ph results which means you are torn between accuracy with ph and sanitary conditions.
The sooner you perform a water exchange to get cya down to a reasonable level the better as it will result in a much simpler path.
Do the diluted cya test procedure as poolstored linked to get a better estimate on how much water you need to exchange.

Thank you so much for all the the detailed info! I'm going to read through everything that has been sent. And I just bought more chlorine so I can add it tonight. We had our pool built almost 2 years ago and over the last several months I've really been learning a lot more through this site on how to keep everything maintained.

PoolStored · Thursday at 8:40 PM

stacy78132 said:
I tested my water using the Taylor test kit and I guessed at my CYA being 120 because it didn't get up to the 100 mark but there weren't any marks that went higher than 100.

Ok, lets do this. Read this ENTIRE article, then test your CYA starting at #8. Let's get an accurate CYA to know what to do next.

CYA - Cyanuric Acid Test

Cyanuric acid (CYA) is the chemical name for the product commonly called “pool water stabilizer” … Read more…

www.troublefreepool.com

15 Markham Drive · Thursday at 8:39 PM

Where do I point the handles in order to drain the pool from the main drain?

PoolStored · Thursday at 8:38 PM

YippeeSkippy said:
Are you talking about tracks that go on the "wheels" ?

Maddie,
I think the OP means these:

To the OP, looks like the rings on Amazon.se are about $20 USD, or $220Kr. That is about as good as it gets. I have used both aftermarket and OEM in the past. I liked the OEM, but I had both good and bad with the aftermarket (one set was fine the other struggled). Hope that helps!

15 Markham Drive · Thursday at 8:38 PM

15 Markham Drive · Thursday at 8:38 PM

15 Markham Drive · Thursday at 8:38 PM

PoolStored · Thursday at 8:38 PM

stacy78132 · Thursday at 8:36 PM

PoolStored said:
Absolutely. Do it now.

Read this article:

The Free Chlorine and Cyanuric Acid Relationship

Managing your cyanuric acid and Free Chlorine levels is key to stabilizing your pool. Learn how these two items affect each other.

www.troublefreepool.com

How did you get 120? How are you testing your water. I would recommend that you retest starting at #8 here:

CYA - Cyanuric Acid Test

Cyanuric acid (CYA) is the chemical name for the product commonly called “pool water stabilizer” … Read more…

www.troublefreepool.com

I tested my water using the Taylor test kit and I guessed at my CYA being 120 because it didn't get up to the 100 mark but there weren't any marks that went higher than 100.

ajw22 · Thursday at 8:36 PM

What name name-brand sand did you use?

Sand Filter Use and Care - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

PoolFool. · Thursday at 8:35 PM

ajw22 said:
Welcome to TFP.

CYA > 90 dilution Test
For CYA > 90ppm, repeat the test, adjusting the procedure as follows:

Fill the mixing bottle with pool water to the lower mark (15 ml line).

Continue filling the mixing bottle with tap water to the upper mark (30 ml line).

Shake briefly to mix.

Pour off half of the contents of the mixing bottle so it is again filled to the lower mark (15 ml line).

Continue the test normally by adding R-0013, but multiply the final result by two.

If you need to dilute the pool water further, then apply these ratios:

Pool water Tap or distilled water Multiply result by
1 1 2
1 2 3
1 4 5

Note that when doing a diluted test, you multiply the range of the test and the error rate of the test, so the results are a ballpark—not an absolute.

See CYA Testing for tips on how to read the test results.

You have a Hybrid Pools - Further Reading

For simplicity I just mix up a batch of water with one cup of pool water and one or two cups of distilled water then use that mixed amount for your testing, according to dilution you need to use for testing.

Works great (with distilled water) also for chlorine testing if you run out of DPD powder.

TinFoilHat · Thursday at 8:34 PM

You will have algae in your water for quite a while as you kill if off day by day. Don't forget it will be hiding in your skimmer, on the weir door, in your pool returns, in the pool light, in the main drain cover, in the autofill, etc. All of those need to be scrbbed and cleaned with chlorinated water. This is a slog but it gets better as you go on.

PoolStored · Thursday at 8:34 PM

proavia · Thursday at 8:33 PM

milosmanzer said:
Will keep up the acid work. I use water from the tap as fill water. The CH of tap is around 165 here in Vegas, from my faucet anyway. Which is way lower than my 425. Is there a thread describing options for softening water? I'll look into the FAS-DPD kit. My reagents are only DPD. I'll try and find the one TFP sells. This one is about 1.5 yrs old. So, probably should get a new one. In addition, I can't detect lower than 7.0 PH on my test kit. Does the TFP kit indicator show sub 7.0?

The TF-Pro Salt will serve you well.

pH needs to be kept in the 7's. Usually 7.2-7.9 range, based on your other test results.

You can install a whole house water softener and plumb it to your autofill line.
Or you can install a portable RV style softener near your autofill feed line. But the portable softener will need more frequent recharging and it's a manual operation.

PoolStored · Thursday at 8:33 PM

milosmanzer said:
The CH of tap is around 165 here in Vegas, from my faucet anyway. Which is way lower than my 425.

Evap and fill will still raise your CH, even with 165 fill. CH doesn't go away, it accumulates.
Softening water is getting a water softener and using the output of the softener to refill/autofill your pool. CH will be 0 or close and won't add CH.
If your reagents are 1.5yrs old, in Vegas, I'd get this kit and don't look back. Link-->TF-Pro Salt
Keep it in a cool, dry (vegas duh), dark location and they will last longer.
Yes, it will show you if pH is lower than 7 on the comparator. Will not tell you how much below...

ajw22 · Thursday at 8:30 PM

Welcome to TFP.

You have to show a head on face view, not a side view.

gscott7 · Thursday at 8:30 PM

ajw22 said:
A larger opening requires more flow to maintain the same pressure.

For a given flow the smaller orifice will give a higher pressure.

Bernoullis Principle - Bernoulli's principle - Wikipedia

I suspected so, but wasn't sure if it was contrary. Just like a high pressure squirt nozzle on a hose. Thanks!

Newdude · Thursday at 8:29 PM

cilo06 said:
I'm not talking about the options to know how much to add but the Sanitiser type question that is under Settings.

Ahhhh. OK. Use liquid chlorine for the pool settings sanitation type.

Its because SWG pools have higher CYA targets. The other forms of chlorine are all the same.

proavia · Thursday at 8:28 PM

You will evaporate 1 to 1.5 times (or more) of your pool volume yearly.
Solids (calcium included) will remain.
Don't use CalHypo or an other type of solid chlorine in the PHX area.

Test you fill water with your own test kit?
Report ph, TA and CH here.

A SWG is the easiest and cheapest way to chlorinate a pool in the desert.
Liquid chlorine works just fine in our area - I used it for 10+ years before converting to a SWG.
If liquid chlorine is burning off that fast for you, possibly your CYA needs to be increased. I ran my CYA at 50 (sometimes 60) when I used liquid chlorine.

Post a full set of current test results as requested in post #5

milosmanzer · Thursday at 8:26 PM

mknauss said:
Great. As our use of fill water increases, you will need to add acid 2 or 3 times per week to try and drop the TA.
I hope you are using softened water for make up water, keeps the CH levels in check.

Also consider getting a FAS-DPD kit so you can measure FC accurately.

Will keep up the acid work. I use water from the tap as fill water. The CH of tap is around 165 here in Vegas, from my faucet anyway. Which is way lower than my 425. Is there a thread describing options for softening water? I'll look into the FAS-DPD kit. My reagents are only DPD. I'll try and find the one TFP sells. This one is about 1.5 yrs old. So, probably should get a new one. In addition, I can't detect lower than 7.0 PH on my test kit. Does the TFP kit indicator show sub 7.0?

GuerillaRadio · Thursday at 8:25 PM

Shallow end was more calm

GuerillaRadio · Thursday at 8:25 PM

cilo06 · Thursday at 8:24 PM

proavia said:
Welcome to TFP!

Don't use CalHypo to chlorinate in the PHX area.
Our fill water tends to be high in calcium to begin with. And with our high evaporation rates the calcium level of the pool water will increase pretty quickly.

How are you testing your pool water?
Test Kits Compared

Post a full set of current test results from your own test kit
FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA
Salt (if you have a SWG)
Water Temperature

Hello, thanks. Liquid Chlorine does not hold here in the Phoenix area so that's why I use CalHypo. What are your suggestions for chlorine type for Phoenix? I am using Taylor kit k-2006.

GuerillaRadio · Thursday at 8:23 PM

A bit windy right now but the pool is crystal clear.

GuerillaRadio · Thursday at 8:23 PM

mknauss · Thursday at 8:22 PM

The use of Cal Hypo to sanitize is not sustainable and thus not Trouble Free so the selection is not available.

cilo06 · Thursday at 8:21 PM

Donldson said:
Welcome to TFP!

Not do derail the topic, but I'm curious how are you managing your CH levels? Most people in Arizona have trouble keeping their CH down when using liquid chlorine or an SWG, it must really rise fast if you're adding calcium every day.

I don't add calcium every day. I add about a 2 bags of CalHypo every week sometimes a bit more frequent. I just refilled my pool and Calcium was in the 80s to begin with. I usually drain my pool every two years to avoid high Calcium numbers.

PoolStored · Thursday at 8:20 PM

Invert and Revert.

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