Trying to correct CYA from last season

What is the date on the liquid chlorine?

It doesn't matter if you hit your target or not what does matter is that
1) you have a valid reading above 3 to start the night, and
2) the first test for OCLT is AFTER sunset and
3) your test in the morning is before sunrise.
We haven't had any sun here all day, clouds and overcast. I'm guessing there is still enough UV to eat up chlorine, though. I'll take the reading tonight, but sunrise is 5:30a and it'll be raining, so not sure I'll get to that one on time.

Can I shelve this until next week?

I don't see anything resembling a date on the chlorine box, will check again

Hello just introducing myself

It looks like you're due for new plaster. The equipment looks good and the water seems clear. Good choice on deciding to do this yourself. The first thing you need is a good test kit. Then when you get it you should post all of the testing results. How are you chlorinating now? View the links below to get started.
Pool Care Basics
Test Kits Compared
FC/CYA Levels
PoolMath

Pentair VS pump estimated watt usage?

Brant,

A filter is a filter, just use the one you want.. :goodjob:

I personally like large cartridge filters as they only need to be cleaned once a year..

Others here would rather die than give up their DE filters..

And... many, like you, love their sand filters..

I think some of us might get a little passionate about why my Ford filter is better than your Chevy filter, but hope we never berate someone for their choice.. :(

Three, 3 HP VS pumps... I can see why you might be a little concerned about the electrical costs... :mrgreen:

In my opinion, saltwater is the only way to go. :)

Thanks,

Jim R.
Jim, thanks for understanding! 😆

So about your spa.... you only flow to your spa for 30 minutes 2x/day and you don't have any issues with algae growth?

Did u base your spa flow requirements on turnover or something else? Is there a recommended turnover rate to keep the water clear if I was picking a rate (gpm) and time to run water to the spa?

Pool smells like chemicals and not crystal clear

Hey Guys !

I just had my pool company do my pool opening (use them for opening and closing ) and everything is okay from the start.

I’m having issues with water clarity and smell . The pool smells chemically (for lack of a better term ) and my pH is very high free chlroine is very low.

I’m going to test the pool with my trouble free pool kit this weekend to get accurate readings but I’m curious if there’s anything I can do ahead of time or during maintenance over the weekend to help.

I’m also seeing some foaming (not much) which I think is just from trapped air in the lines.

TIA !

A&A MFG INFLOOR - 6-Port Valve Body using 5-Port Cam?

I encourage you to put a leaf canister back on it or you will get everything from the floor into your pump basket. I get virtually nothing in my pump basket because of the leaf canister. How did you end up with a 5 plug gearset when you have 6 zones? Bad purchase? That could be part of the issue. Also, did you replace the BIG washer too? You might also have cracked or broken ramps that the flappers ride on. After several repaired ramps and two new gearsets on my aged head I finally just replaced it and haven't had issues for several years now. Mine is the low profile version with 6 zones.
  • Like
Reactions: Viper16

Losing pressure

With pump off, remove the pump basket lid. Complete clean all mating surfaces and the lid O-ring. Be sure its squeaky clean and totally free of any debris. Lube the O-ring with a silicone lube (like MagicLube II). Reinstall the O-ring in the lid and reinstall the lid on the pump. Turn on pump to re-prime the system and let us know if the issue is resolved or not.
Checked and relubed o rings. Same issue.

Intentionally raising CYA to lower ph ceiling

I would love to just let the ph ride at 8.2 but I’ve never felt confident to do that based on things I’ve read online saying you shouldn’t leave the ph that high.
I would let it sit at 8.2 as long as the CSI was good.
Does CSI trump everything else?
Everything?

No.
Is it possible for anything to go wrong if the CSI is normal?
It is not a magic number, but it does a pretty good regarding scaling and plaster protection.

Slam Mistake

The question is, am I done? Did I get lucky and achieve the desired result even thought I didn't keep the level up at 24? And if not, is there something else I should do to be sure?
No. Keep slamming. Go back and read slam exit criteria which includes a clear pool that looks like these...Link-->How Clear is TFP Clear?
  • Like
Reactions: Earthman Bob

CYA / Stabilizer amounts

I mentioned the kits I have above... probably not optimal so I intend to get a better kit. Have not done any pool store testing.
They are not, and if they are 5 years old the reagents are likely bad and reporting incorrectly. You will save yourself a lot of time and money with a good kit. I'd get a proper kit, including salt test before you make additions other than adding some chlorine. If you overshoot salt, you will be replacing water.
  • Like
Reactions: MossyMan

Any advantage to Taylor kit that includes Salt vs Taylor kit, and Taylor Salt separate?

This^^^ and I have taught my wife how to do the testing in the event that I can't at some point in life. I learned that from another member here who lost her husband and all the knowledge he had about the pool.
Good idea. Though, she might think I'm trying to pawn duties off on her.

I'll just make sure she knows how easy it is... Then, I'll pawn it off on her, while I clean out the DE filter. (Oh, wait.. we changed that for cartridge.)

A&A MFG INFLOOR - 6-Port Valve Body using 5-Port Cam?

The 6 port valve body needs the 6 port cam on the gearset.

Do you have the low profile water valve or the top feed water valve?
Each requires a specific gearset and they aren't really interchangeable.

Are you using OEM or after-market gearsets?

Are individual gears coming loose or off?
All of the individual gears - except 2 - have a start lock washer to hold the gear on.

1747867452541.png
  • Like
Reactions: Viper16

1747867452541.png

CYA / Stabilizer amounts

If I set the goal in PoolMath to a target of 3000 for salt, then it recommends 80 more lbs.
I had the goal at 3600 for salt, b/c that's what the Pentair IC-40 docs recommended. Maybe that's overkill?
By all means do what the manufacturer wants. My cell wants 3000. I thought that's what you were shooting for. Still, go easy to avoid overshooting.
  • Like
Reactions: MossyMan

Trying to correct CYA from last season

OK, so attempting to follow instructions exactly but right off the start I see an issue. Added enough bleach to take FC from 5.5 to 7.9 (+2.4), but FC only increased by 1.0 after 30 minutes. Reagents are new, filter running non-stop, using same testing techniques as last season.

FC 5.5 at 6pm
+ 2.4 at 6:04pm (20 oz of 10%)
FC 6.5 at 6:34pm

Heat Siphon issue looking for opinions

So I opened the pool this last weekend. Everything was going ok, if ok means the only thing that went well was the new cover worked awesome. The pool was the cleanest ever in 17 years after uncovering it.
Started everything up and had a large leak from inside the heat siphon. Good thing when I installed it I used isolation valves.
I found out the heat exchanger pic tube cracked, I definitely did not have water in it over the winter , I disconnected it at the unions and blew it out for sure.
Here's my question ? I called heat siphon and was told if I can remove the heat exchanger I can send it to them for repair , at a cost of around $500, plus shipping which would be around $125 each way. My friend is an HVAC master and we disconnected it from the unit, basically had to take it apart. Just looking for opinions if anyone thinks it is worth it. Brand new unit of any brand is $4000 plus. Money wise it seems to make sense but it is about 12 plus years old. The only issue I ever had with it was about 2 seasons ago it turned out to be bad contactors which my friend changed for me.
So what do you think?
Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
Oh and has anyone ever done this, especially with heat siphon.

Slam Mistake

I started the SLAM process with zero free chlorine and brought the PH to 7.2. Using poolmath I put in the recommended number of gallons of chlorine. When I checked it the next morning using the Taylor test with 0871, I thought the level was 48, but it was actually 24, the target level. I had forgotten to multiply the results by .5.

Since that time, two days ago, I've continued to misread the results, and therefore have been unknowingly keeping the levels at 12, vs where it should have been--24.

However, the free chlorine level overnight last night was unchanged. Today, the CC is .5 or less, and the pool appears to be clear, although it's cloudy out.

The question is, am I done? Did I get lucky and achieve the desired result even thought I didn't keep the level up at 24? And if not, is there something else I should do to be sure?

Thanks for your help--

CYA / Stabilizer amounts

I think that your pool is close to 34,000 lbs based on my calcs.
How are you testing your water. We recommend that you have your own kit. Recommended kits. Link-->Test Kits Compared

I would not make additions based on pool store testing.

I mentioned the kits I have above... probably not optimal so I intend to get a better kit. Have not done any pool store testing.

A&A MFG INFLOOR - 6-Port Valve Body using 5-Port Cam?

I have a AA infloor cleaner that I am struggling with keeping functional. Brand new gear rotating assembly. Lasted through last season.

Last season had some air trouble with a leaky leaf filter lid from a crack in the body housing, sucked in a lot of air and priming was miserable. Before winter rolled in, I cut it out and piped returns straight to pump suction in the time being, as this runs year round. Tried to get the system up and running this spring, could get it to cycle through the valves a few times and then gets stuck again. Any tips? I made sure both sides of the gears are free spinning and not bound up with the lock washers, can free spin and they spin on there own for a couple seconds. The right gears of the lock washers on it. The valve body is t-handles and probably original 2004 year. The housing in original. The lid is most likely original as well. The washers at bottom the housing was replaced with the new rotating assembly last year as well.

Could air burping through this cause some disruption of the gear sets and knock them loose? I will check and see through the lid and see if the impeller is spinning. I dont believe it every binds up. They arent complicated...so not sure what my deal is trying to keep it functional.

I noticed on my third time opening it up this spring that there is a 5-port cam in place in lieu of the 6-port cam....

1747866757625.png


vs what I would expect on a 6-port cam:

1747866823108.png

Attachments

  • 1747866741846.png
    1747866741846.png
    131.5 KB · Views: 0

1747866823108.png

Filter