Hi all, I use a solar cover/blanket during spring and fall which I started using 1 or 2 years ago. For the first handful of years with our pool (without the blanket), keeping the water in balance was super easy for me. I'm not sure the science behind it, but I notice that when I put the cover on, I have been struggling to keep the water in balance. The issue seems to be with keeping the chlorine level up. This surprises me as I expected with no sun light on the water that the opposite might happen with the chlorine.

With the cover on, i know i need to test the water more often as a start, but can anyone give me some insight into what having the cover on does to the water balance as that will help me understand what is likely going on.

Thanks!

Hello guys .sorry for my bad English. I have a problem I have never met before .despite working some years in pools .went to a clients pool that was working with chlorine salt generator for some time until last year. It broke and waits replace. This area has a hard water with ph goes high if you doin maintenance and since i was sure he never test ph and he propably didnt kbow swg affect ph . I asked him and i was right . The pool is with overflow tank . And has a sand filter with very old sand i told him to replace. he told me that every year he emptys the pool for the winter and when he first adds water he add only a little for the pump can suck for the bottom and push in the return jets for some time so they get clear . That was nice from him i did thw same . Return jets seem very clear. And then he fill the pool and i go there to start maintenance . I test ph about 8.0 ( always testing only with weekly calibrated electode ) and u add ph minus .goin 2 days later and ph is at 7.2 , i assume for sometime i went little lower . And i saw some small brown hard flakes comin our of some return jets . I vaccumed went the next day same thing was haplening was there vaccuming for 1 hour . Changed the valve to recirculate to be sure it isnt inside inside filter and it wasnt . I managed in a small depth side of the pool to anscrew completelt one return jet and boom huge and small piexes where xoming out as crazy .i was 3 hours rhere already closed the return jet and left . He told me it still comes out little pieces of jets . What is goin on guys .? He told me thay its the first time he see this in his pool . I asuume that it happend it was the first time someone brought ph pools down ..so it started brake all that thing . I believe pipes is full of calcium . But why ? I have visited pools in same areas that had never foxed ph and i have bever seen such a thing . Can it be from swg ? Usually from swg is white flakes not brown . I can describe it as brown egg shell pieces . What can i do to solve this and stop popin out of the pool? Bring ph lower and leave it there ? I cant imagine poppin out all the summer vacuming and then same again .ill try to upload photos .thank you

I replaced a 1 hp single speed Superflow with a new Superflo VST. I am having trouble figuring how to get the pump and my Haward Aqua Plus
to communicate with each other. At present I have changed my pump program in the Aqua Pluws and it now powers the pump 24 hrs a day. This has confused the salt cell so my chlorine is out of wack. My big concern is this winter. The way it's set up now I won't have any freeze protection.

I know I will need the Pentair Communication cable but I'm not sure what else. Right now Aux 1 is wired for the patio lights and we use this button almost every day. Aux 2 is the power feed for the pool heater.

The easiest solution is to go get a new single speed pump, but I like the variable speed option if possible.

Anybody tackle this problem sucessfully?

I'd love to limit my pH drift by dropping TA to 60, as this approach was worked very well in my spa. However, I find it challenging to get the right mix of other levels in Pool Math that result in CSI around -0.15 (midway point of 0.0 to -0.3 target range). Here are my preferred targets:

TA 60
pH 7.6
CYA 70
CH 450
Salt 3400
BOR 40
Water Temp 80

However, at these levels, my CSI is -0.37. If I drive pH up to 8.0, I get CSI to my target at -0.14 but I feel like I'm right on the edge with pH, as my understanding is I never want it to exceed 8.0. I could push it to 7.8, but that leaves CSI at -0.24, resulting in both pH and CSI a bit closer to the edge of my acceptable ranges for both. Am I missing something? My SWG calls for 3,400 as the ideal. CSI is relatively insensitive to BOR levels. Not much room to play with CYA given recommended 60-80 range. There is some ambiguity on TFP re: acceptable CH levels (the ABCs of Pool Chem calls for 250-650 but the sticky TFPC for Beginners calls for 200-400), but even if I pushed CH up to 650, I still end up with CSI of -0.21.

Appreciate any guidance!

I am looking at a heater that is a legacy LRZ400EN Model. We are getting this error code. I am guessing this has something to do with the flame sensor.

Any guidance out there that would be appreciated of parts that we could try to clean or replace

Picture has the error code. It says fault, check ignition control.

Please advise.

So, in my preliminary research on this, there are 3 primary options -- Hayward Omnihub, Pentair Intellicenter, and Jandy-something -- but the internet is kind of a mess on the subject, so I don't know what else is out there, whether any of these fall into the "hard avoid" category, and whether there's a general consensus on which one is "best." I know from experience in other areas that there are often lots of options for devices that do similar things, but the community tends to settle on one that rises to the top, and I'm wondering if that's the case here too.

I have the following:

• 25,000 gallon basic rectangle vinyl in-ground pool (2 returns, 1 skimmer, 1 vac)
• Hayward SWG setup w/ Aquarite 900 panel & TCell 940 cell.
• Rheem Heater
• Intellipro VSF Pump

I would like to install a smart controller (ideally controlled by a smartphone app; integration with HomeKit or HomeAssistant, a plus, but not necessary) that can do all of the following:

• monitor pH, FC, and salt (others would be nice, but not necessary)
• adjust the chlorine output from the SWG (ideally, automatically based on the FC levels reported by the monitor)
• notify me if pH is high or low with instructions on what to add and how much
• notify me if salt is low with instructions of how much to add
• allow me to put the VS pump on a schedule and otherwise adjust speeds remotely
• allow me to open/close valves (drain, skimmer, vac) remotely
• allow me to turn on/off, and adjust temp on heater remotely

This would also be nice, but I haven’t even found a product that does this, so this is, at least as far as I know, imaginary:

• add pH Up or pH Down preloaded into some sort of hopper/reservoir, as necessary (again, ideally automatically based on the FC levels reported by the monitor)