sande005 said:

@HermanTX - I believe the test kit is still in the mail. So those readings are pretty suspect.

@brennerc - Is the above true, test kit hasn't come yet? If so, just keep adding liquid, until we get the full set of tests from the kit.

Your pool looks about like mine did, when I opened. So odds are that the whole process won't take a long time. Brush and clean, you will have to backwash your filter several times since it will be loading up with a lot of things.

Good job on getting the signature and PoolMath up and running!

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spanman said:

What would cause such a high TDS readout while the other variables are normal, or close to normal?

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Pas_pool said:

Might be a stupid question

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Rockstead said:

Based on the pictures I sent can you help me clarify if this is an Ecostar or a Tristar?

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Rockstead said:

The body says Ecostar, but the 3200DR refers to a Tristar

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Liquid said:

So it has been two years since my original post. I thought adding a few comments might help speed up the lerarning curve or give some other new pool owners more confidence that they will figure out the testing procedure. If I did, anyone could.

It did initially take me a few weeks to get comfortable performing all the tests and some are more interpretive than others. Within a few months I had the testing procedures memorized as to how many drops of each agent and testing is pretty efficient. Now, on a normal basis I test pH and Chlorine every few days, TA once a week, CH, CYA & Salt every ten days/two weeks. If there is severe weather or a significant change to the water level I will test more frequently. Now, I think I understand my pool better, anticipate what it needs and when based on usage, temperature, weather and changes in water level.

I changed some of the testing equiptment which made a difference for me. First off, I threw the pH test block in the trash. The colors faded and my pH was way off, which caused me a lot of headache in trying to balance the pool and all along it was a shoddy test block. That story is here. I now use the Taylor pH Test Block, which is also more granular than the block that comes with the TF test kit (.2 v.s .3 if I remember correctly), helping me better interpret the pH level. You have to use R-0004 in the Taylor block and not R-0014 that comes with the TF kit. I also replaced both the test cylinders as the lines faded on them quite quickly. I bought glass beakers, a 25 ml for 10ml tests and a 50 ml for TA. It gives plenty of room to swirl the contents well. I don't use a Speed Stir, though you could find a dozen threads on TFP and the benefits/debates of using one. I opted not to go there.

The one test method I changed around was CYA. Rather than filling with pool water to the bottom of the label and agent to the top of the label, I just measure out equal parts of each and add them individually to the test bottle. For me that works better than using the label as a guide.

I will say it was pretty easy getting initially established but is a constant learning process. I have so much more to learn just about pool chemistry, not to mention all the other aspects of maintaining a pool, but TFP is a HUGE help!

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JoyfulNoise said:

Do you have the 50ppm CYA Standard solution?

I have often checked my eyeballs and lighting by using the standard solution. Since it’s known to be 50ppm, you mix it up with the reagent and then fill the tube to the 50ppm mark. Then you go outside and look at the tube. Find the best lighting and distance from your eyeballs that gives no dot at 50ppm. It’s a good way to check yourself and gain confidence.

Make sure you’re following the directions with regard to holding the tube properly and at the proper distance from your eyes as well as not staring intently at the tube forcing your brain to “see” a dot.

It’s not the greatest test but it’s generally close enough for what is needed.

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hexabc said:

Be careful with muriatic acid, you have a plaster pool. Don't add large quantities at a time - divide the calculated demand by 2, wait at least an hour after adding and test. Proceed according to the result.

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JamesW said:

Even if they say it is, it is highly unlikely that they will actually do that.

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Anngellicas said:

PT wood under the legs?

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Rancho Cost-a-Lotta said:

If it was my pool...

I would try to prime while running booster pump. If it makes no difference, cap it off.

Last resort, I would try running a hard line from the pump directly to poolside. It sounds like it would only take about two 10 ft sections of pipe and a few fittings to make it work. This would rule out or confirm a leak between the skimmer and pump.

If my ideas get vetoed by the experts, no hard feelings.

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