Hi - I wanted to caulk around my vinyl steps where it meets the concrete. Just to avoid excess water and settling over time and to properly seal it. Would anyone have a recommendation on the best caulk option to use?

Thank you.

We have a 30 gallon acid feeder on a 20,000 gallon indoor pool. We are doing some modifications to our pool equipment and plan to use the acid feeder to feed both the indoor and outdoor pool. I have been adding 1 gallon of 31.45% MA to the 30 gallon tank and it lasts about 2 weeks before I need to refill. Obviously, we will go through the acid faster if it is also feeding the outdoor pool. What is the maximum concentration of acid that I could put in that 30 gallon acid feeder tank? Could I put 2 or 3 gallons of 31.45% MA in that 30 gallon tank? Any risk of damage to equipment by increasing the acid concentration?

I just added salt to my pool. In the past we had a salt that was little flat crystals that practically dissolved as soon as they hit the water. The Morton's pool salt that we got from Home Depot had very large crystals that sank to the bottom of the pool. In case I have to add some more, what's your best salt recommendation this year?

Just curious if anyone has a good theory on length of pole for cleaning attachments. im 16x35 with a full length bench. Im debating on a 12 foot and a 16 foot pole. I fear that the 16 is bigger than needed and may be a little heavy for my wife.

all input is greatly appreciated.

Was vacuuming to waste this morning after insane storms here in PA. Everything was working fine. Water was down to the height of the skimmers so I stopped to fill the pool. After the water height was good turned pump back on but it won’t prime. Checked everything I can think of: skimmer baskets clear, main drains don’t look blocked, pump basket is clear, o-rings have no damage, ran hoses directly in the skimmer lines, fished around the impeller but it seems to spin fine. It sucks the water from the pump basket fine but nothing from the pool. Anything I’m missing? I thought maybe a clog but it’s unlikely the main drain and both skimmer lines would all be clogged. Plus it was running perfectly fine this morning. I’m out of ideas.

I have a similar problem. Super high suction and flow on recirculate, almost nothing on filter. Used on filter only a few hours. Could it be a bad spider gasket?

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I’m not sure if this is the correct place. Moderators please move if it’s not. going to post my latest test results but I have two separate stains I would like advice on.

FC 4.
CC 0
PH 7.4
alkalinity 70
CH 180
CyA 30

The water is crystal clear. My problem is I have two different types and colors of stains.
1st one is reddish brown and is spreading to other parts of pool. I did the vitamin C test and it did not respond at all.
2nd spots were more black in nature and when I did the vitamin C test, they cleared right up. I also have a sort of brownish looking ring around the pool line. When I take crushed up vitamin C’s and rub it, it comes right off.

so I’m thinking for the second spots. I’m gonna do the AAA treatment. My question is what advice can you give me on the other spots that seem to be rapidly expanding. I can send you a picture of a couple of them if it would help.
thanks in advance. I don’t use well water and have never had problems with copper or iron in my pool. The yard guy did fertilize about two months ago so there could be some fertilizer that got in the pool. I’ll

As stated above. My chlorsync cs30 has 4 green dashes on the display. My app says unit is unresponsive. The diagnostic chart says to check the wire going into unit. I checked all the wires and all seems ok. It does not have another option to check. What else could it be?

My pool plaster, tile and coping was redone in 2008

I converted my pool to salt in 2015

Now some of my coping near the skimmers, jets and overflow are pitting (as seen in the photo below)

It is both horizontal and vertical surfaces.

Is there any good solution that will not look like a repair has been done? I am concerned if I use Quikrete patch or sanded grout the colors wont match or blend well and the coping will look spotty like a cheetah (all the repairs will be spots).
While I am no expert, I feel like my plaster, tile and decking should last another 3-5 years (maybe longer) so I don't want the situation to deteriorate and this becomes the weakest link in needing to redo my pool.

I've also read about using a sealer but people complain it makes things slippery and gives things a 'wet' appearance - so if I did this, I'd need to do all the coping, right?

Why is this happening (the pitting)? Am I doing something wrong?

Appreciate any thoughts or advice

My TA is 30
pH is less than 7. Had to add 6 drops of base to get to 7.4 (don’t have my Taylor booklet to figure out how much base to add).

Question re TA
Can I use sodium bicarbonate? It’s not on pool math. So not sure how much. There are directions on the bottle.

I’ll recheck pH after ta is up then add sodium carbonate

These are what I have so wanted to use them if ok.

Thanks

My pool has probably pounds of dead algae on the bottom of it. I need to remove it but cant figure out how. It's in ground and doesn't have a drain. I attempted to vacuum out the algae and water through my backwasher but found there was air getting through so the pressure wasn't very high, and I couldn't do it for more than a few minutes without starting to flood my neighbors yard. The algae is also too fine to go through my sand filter or my robot vacuum.

Any advice would be appreciated.

I'm a DIYer in-ground pool/spa guy in Goodyear, Arizona. And, thanks in advance for reading my exhaustive explanation of my problem. I've built with CMUs with #4 and #5 rebar and all fully filled cells. Built on rebar reinforced slabs (12" thick for pool, 20" thick for spa). Slabs have a 20 mil pvc sheet underneath and Henry's dampproofing on outside edges of slabs and outside of CMU walls. All this was prescribed by a structural engineer in the planning stage. Interior walls were then covered with about 1/2 inch of stucco, then a thin coat (1/8" including a dashed texture) of thinset mortar to finish. Everything is cured out (more than 90 days), but I'm still getting really high moisture readings (30% and more, measured with a Wagner L606). My preferred waterproofing membrane is one with elasticity vs a cementitous membrane. I've attempted to use SEMCO, but have had some problems with it fully curing because of the moisture content (they wanted it to be about 3%). In addition, because the initial application of the liquid membrane was done on a substrate with too high a temp (not cautioned in anyway by SEMCO unfortunately), the membrane has a lowered adhesion to my substrate. I'm now faced with peeling off the membrane and going at it again. Per SEMCO's recommendation, because of the high moisture content readings, I also initially applied their own brand of penetrating sealer (on their recommendation) before applying the initial coating of liquid membrane. They are recommending I apply MORE coats of penetrating sealer (after removing the current liquid membrane) then reapplying their liquid membrane again. I'm a bit confused by that since it didn't seem to help the first time... but this area is a bit beyond my pay grade. After my waterproofing membrane, I plan to cover about 80% of the membrane with recycled glass tiles and grout. Can readers please weigh in on the moisture content issue and any recommendations? I'm a little concerned about 'trapping' so much moisture inside the slab/walls if I have waterproof membranes on both sides. I know that a cementitious product (like Laticrete Hydroban) might be a more suitable membrane since it would work with the underlying moisture to cure... but alas... it doesn't have any elasticity factor (which I'm thinking would be good for any future movement/cracking that might occur in the whole structure -- the SEMCO has a 1300% elasticity). Thanks for any wisdom you can share.

My name is Christian..I'm in Denver Colorado, I own my own business repairing hot tubs, love everything about hot tubs, and most importantly loved keeping my customers happy

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Not sure why but my CYA level is at 170 right now. I have not added chlorine to my pool for 3 weeks and the water is still crystal clear. Pool uncovered 24/7 and chlorine level drop only by 1.0ppm . So far I'm not complaining.

Third year with 24x12 intex ultra.
Last year's upgrade was an Intex SWG. Still got algae and I think I know why.
Last year's CYA was about 30. SWG was on for 3 hours a day. I don't think I ever understood the keep it above the minimum Chlorine at all times.
This year, upped the CYA to 60, running SWG for 6 hours overnight while running pump. 12 hours to keep it all moving. Keeps Chlorine nicely in the 6-7 ppm range and not a hint of algae yet. Fingers crossed, touch wood, etc etc.
Other lesson - run the Aiper Seagull every day.

And this year's upgrade...a hint in the picture.

I just for an above ground bestway circular pool. 14ft across ans 48in deep. I tested the water and everything is where is it supposed to be except CYA and chlorine. Was doing mild research and was listening to someone who didn't know what they were doing. I shock it, chlorine cgoes up to 10 then goes to 0 by next day. I look up and see that it's probably the cya. I buy chlorine stabilizer the chlorox brand and put about 16 oz give or take bc the bag says to put 16 oz per 4k gallons and mind is about 4500 gallons. I throw it in the pool and brush the heck out of it until it's pretty much dissolved. Test it the next day, cya is still 0 . Now it's about 4 days later, I put more stabilizer bc I'm thinking even if it wasn't enough to go to 30ppm it should've showed something more than 0. So I put about 22 oz, brush out and it's been about 3 hours and still at 0. Do I need to wait longer? I really need this chlorine up to even think about going in it. It's a new pool, never swam in and it's been sitting there for 2 weeks already. Just frustrated

my TA is 110 do I need to lower if my PH has been consistently at 7.4?

CYA 50
calcium 310
combine cl 0
FC i try to keep at 4-5

Does anyone know of a 90 degree fitting with some kind of 360 degree, spiral, or star pattern to keep the flow below the surface in an attempt to help reduce aeration?

My 7’ x 7’ tanning ledge / sun deck has a single bubbler return in the center. I’m trying to reduce aeration as much as possible. I also have a cascading water feature from an elevated spa that aerates the water while the pump is running approximately 12 hours daily but nothing I can do about that.

pH rise rate isn’t terrible. I’m just trying to lower the frequency of adding muriatic acid as much as I can.

Still working on getting to that sweet spot for TA as I’ve learned from this site it’s a factor for pH rise, but that’s for another thread.

Thanks!

The family pool, installed in 1984, last had a bulb replacement done by a professional a couple years ago, which saw little usage before failing. Presumed it might simply be a bad bulb, but after personally removing it (shutting off the breaker; it's a low-voltage line), bringing it to the deck, and taking the bulb to test for continuity at the hardware store, the bulb proved not to be the problem. The in-deck junction box is incredibly corroded. Breaker is ok (the pump on the same line runs) and when flipping the light switch by the pool, a clicking sound is heard back where the pool equipment and transformers are.

I'm not familiar with what may need to be done other than a bit of research online, but presume a test for power at the the in-deck j-box is one step. There's a spa light that's out as well, which I thought I could test and if it was also not working with a good bulb, then we'd know the problem is upstream for both lights. Photos of the j-box attached - I'm not certain what I'm looking at, but it seems like 3 wires are running to the pool light (one is a ground?) and others out to the spa, but which are which, and which are the original power lines? The wingnuts are frozen, and some of the connections are done without wingnuts - just a glob of corroded metal with several wires fused to it. A mess.

All advice appreciated - I may have to back out of this challenge, and now, thinking of it, should have confirmed here first that if the transformers are bad, could this lead to full 120 coming through instead of 12V? I'm aware that I'd need to seal/putty up (underwater epoxy) the points where the conduit enters the pool and in-deck j-box, and add a new o-ring to the light and probably a new j-box gasket. Even if this job is too big and we completely give up now (we're just not interested in pool illumination enough to spend $600-1000 to have it done) does it still make sense to put on a new o-ring, new gasket, and putty all the openings back up to maybe prevent further damage? I can see there's moisture in the in-deck j-box though this might have come up from pulling on the light cables to remove the fixtures.

Happy Friday folks..

I found my pump not working, the capacitor was blown. I got two capacitors from supplyhouse. put one on and started motor. Motor started and it immediately blew the capacitor. I tried the second capacitor, same result. Motor runs fine even after blowing the capacitor (well it is a start capacitor). Now I blew both the capacitors. What might be happening? is it possible that original capacitor failed naturally, and the new capacitors are just bad? or motor got any issues?

So I bought a branded, slightly expensive capacitor from Amazon, let me see what happens with it.

Any input appreciated.

Following on from my previous thread where i had CC (1-1.5ppm) and no obvious cause. It was suggested that I may have some algae hiding somewhere. Sure enough i found some in the creases of the liner. The water is otherwise crystal clear, just showing CC in my tests. I brushed thoroughly in the creases of the liner and dislodged the algae, it wasnt a lot but it was there. Ive maintained the regular brushing and havnt seen algae since.

I havnt had time to perform a SLAM and I believe thats why my CC is still above 1ppm? I did an overnight chlorine test last night and the results were:

21:22 last night

FC - 4.36ppm

05:30 this morning

FC - 4.02ppm

Is this indicative of anything? Should i still do a SLAM to bring the CC down? The no overnight FC loss, does that suggest that i have potentially remedied the initial cause of the CC?

Above ground pool, sand filter and all other parameters within ideal ranges on pool math.

Thanks.

Quick summary. Mastertemp400 was quick cycling. Pool repair guy concluded new thermistor was needed. It was going to take months for repairman to return, so I replaced thermistor, high limit switch and gas shutoff switch myself. Heater worked for a few days, then heater gave E05 error, so I replaced the stack flue sensor. Heater went back to E01 error. I tried a new thermistor. E05 error.

If I disconnect the stack flu sensor, it will run for about 15 minutes, then cutoff. When the heater runs, the temperature is about 30 degrees off, too cold.

So, is a new control board my only option? Wiring looks ok. I can't see any breaks or damage. Heater is only 3+ years old.

My spa has developed some spots, there is a texture to the spots, they are a greyish/green. Water chemistry is right, no algae growing anywhere. Nothing to my knowledge has been dropped into the pool, the pox does not seem to be spreading, it is however in a few different areas in the Spa.
I am thinking of sanding the surface to see if I can remove from the plaster.

My Dolphin S200 is failing. Again. It is 5 years old. I replaced the bearings in the impeller motor a year (or two?) ago myself with great success, but now the drive motor seems to have reached the end of its life and is seizing. Unfortunately, based on Internet searching and the forums here, it is about impossible to find a replacement drive motor (except for a sketchy $200 used part from Israel on e-bay). I am unwilling to pay the $490 Maytronics wants for a full electronics/motor replacement unit when all I need is a motor assembly that should cost no more than $25 to make (and probably much less at their volumes).
What now? The options I am considering:

1. Purchase a $25 motor with as similar specs as I can find (24V, 100RPM, .6Nm torque) and try to hack the existing drive gear and bulkhead onto it in a watertight manner to repair my Dolphin
2. Buy a new booster pump and resurrect my old Polaris 360 pressure side cleaner (It is always needing new parts as well, but at least they are available. I got the Dolphin when my booster pump died)
3. Try out a Kreepy Krauly suction side cleaner
4. Suck it up and spend big bucks on a new robot
5. Get a Pool Blaster or similar hand held pole vac

I am not necessarily opposed to #4, provided I don't get ripped off and am actually getting a product that will either last or has repair parts available at a reasonable price. From what I can tell, however, that doesn't exist. Which makes me think getting a new booster pump and going back to the Polaris 360 might be the better choice. Parts for the Polaris are still overpriced, but don't seem to be as outrageous as the robot parts. I like the price-point of the suction side cleaners, but since I don't have a dedicated suction line for one, it will require more work to use. Has anyone attempted #1? Things to know: my pool is surrounded by trees and my robot needs to run daily. Sometimes twice a day. The cleaner lives in the pool full-time for the 4 months the pool is open in the summer. Thoughts and opinions? Am I missing other options?

Edit: I added item 5- a Pool Blaster or similar. I spent a little time looking at them today and think they might be the right compromise for me between cost and effort. At a little over $100 on Amazon for a non-name brand model, I may get one to use for the rest of this season to see how it goes. At that price point, it's less than the electricity cost to run the Polaris 360 for a season. The only thing I have to lose is the time to use it. Maybe I can convince my kids to take it on as a chore...

I have had a Kreepy Krawler system for 20 years now. It’s been suggested to use the Polaris XT. Any thoughts?

I'm installing a Latham Rockwood oval pool - according to the manual it must be installed at least 14 inches below grade. I've dug two test holes in my yard. I get water at 14 inches in the lower portion of my yard and at 27 inches in the higher portion. (The pool will go from the higher to lower portion.) I assume this is a problem. What are my options? I was thinking of digging deeper than 14 inches and putting gravel and drainage pipe to move the water away from the pool.

Any advice would be much appreciated.

Hi!

I'm (hopefully) nearing the end of my SLAM and have been vacuuming everyday to waste and it's a bit cumbersome doing that and then having to refill the pool. I have a sand filter without any DE added - can I vacuum regularly through the filter to remove the dead algae or do I need to keep vacuuming to waste to make sure it gets out for good?

Newbie alert! Sorry, if this is already been asked that I did look and couldn’t find answers. I’m trying to connect the low-voltage wires from the pump to the OmniLogic. The manual provided pictures and diagrams of other pumps but not the one I have I have the Hayward XE super pump VS and the Omni logic. The trouble I’m having is finding the connection inside the back of my pop there’s no bus bar for me to connect the wires into. Can anyone assist with this?

Thank you in advance

It’s leaking here. Not too crazy but any ideas?