@mknauss said 7.4 so that’s what I was doing.Be more aggressive lowering pH to 7.0-7.2 rather then 7.4.
I’ve been meaning to test my fill water TA... haven’t done it yet. No auto fill on the pool.What is the TA of your fill water? You have an autofill on your pool?
Confirm you do not have a heater.
I truly don’t know, sorry. Just trying to get a read on whether replacement is the only/primary option. Obviously if that doesn’t fix the problem I’ll make them take it back.What brand/model of light is it?
I will adjust 0.5ppm up based on pool math!As long as the SWCG is generating chlorine, your salinity is fine. Salt level in the water does not change chlorine output.
13 hours is on the low side for your size pool and SWCG . Closer to 16-18 hours would be normal.
If the light is an Intellibrite, Globrite, etc, then the light and cord are one package. Though tripping a GFCI implies a wiring problem on surface.
I think wiring was checked at the junction when they unhooked it to confirm that the pool light was working fine.I would be sure the wiring is checked at the junction box first. I am assuming the light is a small in diameter, LED light. They come as the light and cord as a package.
No paperwork on the light available at all? A picture?
When did he pour the CYA into the skimmer? While it was on Rinse? Cuz if so it's in the ground not the poolYep, he poured the CYA right into the skimmer over the basket. I won’t backwash for a full week then. He should’ve done the panty hose method instead? Just want to know the right thing to do.