Pool company guy screwed up...

[ajw22]

Have been working on that bringing ph down to 7.4 every time it hits 8. It’s been slow going...

Be more aggressive lowering pH to 7.0-7.2 rather then 7.4.

 

[mknauss]

Is right outside the shed ok in the deck box? Or do I need to really keep it at a distance?

Outside is fine. The enclosed space is the issue.

 

[ajw22]

What is the TA of your fill water? You have an autofill on your pool?

Confirm you do not have a heater.

 

[Pperc]

Be more aggressive lowering pH to 7.0-7.2 rather then 7.4.

@mknauss said 7.4 so that’s what I was doing.

What is the TA of your fill water? You have an autofill on your pool?

Confirm you do not have a heater.

I’ve been meaning to test my fill water TA... haven’t done it yet. No auto fill on the pool.

I do have a heater - sorry it’s not in my sig. Will add it later once I can check the model.

 

[mknauss]

Would prefer to not drop pH below 7.4 as the CH is on the low end with a plaster pool.

The minor scale from the SWCG is of no concern.

 

[Pperc]

Would prefer to not drop pH below 7.4 as the CH is on the low end with a plaster pool.

The minor scale from the SWCG is of no concern.

It seems to only be in the spa, but im guessing that’s because my pressure side cleaner picks it up in my pool.

 

[Pperc]

What is the TA of your fill water? You have an autofill on your pool?

Confirm you do not have a heater.

You asked about fill water numbers. Happy to oblige:

FC: 0.5
CC: 1
TA: 80
CH: 125

Filling off of township water.

 

[ajw22]

Fill water is not contributing to your high TA. Keep working on knocking to down.

 

[Pperc]

Here’s another one... when we moved in the pool light and spa light didn’t work. We quickly diagnosed that the GFCI was tripping every time the lights were turned on. Since then it’s been diagnosed that the pool light comes on just fine when the spa light is disconnected, so the spa light must be tripping the circuit. Was told that’s likely due to water leaking into the light and the only option is to replace the whole light fixture (not just a bulb). Was quoted $300 for the new fixture plus installation. Thoughts?

 

[mknauss]

What brand/model of light is it?

 

[Pperc]

What brand/model of light is it?

I truly don’t know, sorry. Just trying to get a read on whether replacement is the only/primary option. Obviously if that doesn’t fix the problem I’ll make them take it back.

I’m also losing about 0.5 FC a day right now with the SWG on. It’s running 13 hours at 100% so considering running it longer. Could low(ish) salt levels also lead to suboptimal chlorine output?

 

[mknauss]

As long as the SWCG is generating chlorine, your salinity is fine. Salt level in the water does not change chlorine output.

13 hours is on the low side for your size pool and SWCG . Closer to 16-18 hours would be normal.

If the light is an Intellibrite, Globrite, etc, then the light and cord are one package. Though tripping a GFCI implies a wiring problem on surface.

 

[Pperc]

As long as the SWCG is generating chlorine, your salinity is fine. Salt level in the water does not change chlorine output.

13 hours is on the low side for your size pool and SWCG . Closer to 16-18 hours would be normal.

If the light is an Intellibrite, Globrite, etc, then the light and cord are one package. Though tripping a GFCI implies a wiring problem on surface.

I will adjust 0.5ppm up based on pool math!

Are you suggesting that replacing the light fixture won’t solve the problem?

 

[mknauss]

I would be sure the wiring is checked at the junction box first. I am assuming the light is a small in diameter, LED light. They come as the light and cord as a package.

No paperwork on the light available at all? A picture?

 

[Pperc]

I would be sure the wiring is checked at the junction box first. I am assuming the light is a small in diameter, LED light. They come as the light and cord as a package.

No paperwork on the light available at all? A picture?

I think wiring was checked at the junction when they unhooked it to confirm that the pool light was working fine.

This one for $300 is not LED. The LED light was quoted at $750.

I’ve attached a picture of the non-working spa light and the working pool light for reference.

 

[mknauss]

Not the type I was thinking of. For someone to replace it, the cost they quoted is probably correct.

 

[Pperc]

Not the type I was thinking of. For someone to replace it, the cost they quoted is probably correct.

It’s a 30 year old pool so I’m guessing pretty old technology.

 

[frustratedpoolmom]

Yep, he poured the CYA right into the skimmer over the basket. I won’t backwash for a full week then. He should’ve done the panty hose method instead? Just want to know the right thing to do.

When did he pour the CYA into the skimmer? While it was on Rinse? Cuz if so it's in the ground not the pool

 

[Pperc]

When did he pour the CYA into the skimmer? While it was on Rinse? Cuz if so it's in the ground not the pool

Ha, luckily that was a different guy the next day with the pool on filter.

 

[Pperc]

Sorry for the silence on this thread. It’s been a busy summer. All has been excellent with the pool by following the TFP method. Crystal clear water, etc. my TA has come down and while my pH still tends to drift up, I’m easily able to bring it back down with a smallish amount of muriatic acid.

So, everything was going great until I just checked my system. The IC40 is flashing green on “check cell”. I am reticent to call the pool store again, so any suggestions? I have ordered the cleaning system / cap from Amazon preemptively and it should arrive Sunday. I did that as I thought perhaps it’s going to need to be cleaned. But, I also thought I’d check in with you all to see what past experience tells you. I already held the ‘more’ button to show 60% used up so it should have more life on it. I also run it at 100% for 16 hours a day but I assume that’s fine to do. Also, I assume it’s not producing chlorine so I’m going to raise my chlorine up to 7ppm as I’m going away until Sunday, just to be on the safe side.