New to plaster IGP and struggling

[Tena]

I've had numerous above ground pools, with no problems. Our IG plaster was filled last week. The fill water looked green and the sides are now stained light brown .

The builder suggests I throw in a couple of bottles of Stain Away and a bottle of Jack's Magic*. I've done enough reading to know that may not be the solution. (And Jack's has multiple types.??‍)

The plaster is less than 2 weeks old and he is ready to convert to salt next week. (I think it's too soon)

I'm reading my eyes out, but could use some helpful hand holding at this point. I'm pretty sure I have horrible chlorine tabs (Clorox Xtra blue, bought in panic because we had nothing on a Sunday).

Saturday, June 15
Builder started first fill
Sunday, June 16
Put tabs in the chlorinator. Started the pump.
Monday, June 17
The builder shocked once, & added acid.
Tuesday, June 18
I had the water tested, they recommended
Algaecide.
Thursday, June 20
It was looking pale green, but still clear. I tested with my cheapo kit provided by builder. Ph was high, chl low. Checked the chlorinator, all tabs dry! So I had the water tested, they recommended shock, wait an hour, add acid.
Add chlorine at night to skimmer.
I txt builder about chlorinator not working and ask him not to add chems w/o talking to me. He comes over, adds acid again. Says nothing about chlorinator. Says we may need to buy vit c treatment for stains. I put a lock on the gate.

Since then, I've been waiting for the pH to climb, scrubbing, added tabs to skimmer...noted chlorine way high, stopped adding tabs. Checked chlorinator and it is now working, set wide open. ??‍ Turned it off in preparation for acid treatment? Idk

I am ordering a test kit from here, to stop going to the pool store. They always sell "blue stuff" I don't need. Lol

What do you recommend for light brown stains on a brand new plaster pool?

It will convert to salt in a few weeks and I would like to clear this up first.

Thank you!

Pictures are progressive the starred one is today.

 

[Divin Dave]

Hi Tenab,
its pretty much impossible for us to provide advice if we dont have test data from your water. The pH could be way too high or way too low. The same for the Total Alcalinity and the Calcium.

Our first recommendation will be to get yourself a GOOD reliable test kit. Either the TF100 (preferred) or the Taylor K2006C. You wont find the TF100 in a pool store. And unlikely the Taylor one either. there is a link in my sig that will take you the place to get the TF100

The water is most likely looking green because your Free Chlorine is not at sufficent level to fight off algae. Again, good water test numbers could shine a larger light on what you need to do to get that under control. If it algae, you'll need to perform a SLAM.

You NEED a good test kit, or you'll never get your pool under control.

While you are searching or waiting for a test kit, you can add about 3/4 gallon per day of Liquid Chlorine which is available at walmart, pool stores or big box stores that sell pool supplies. Also, plain old household bleach will do the trick too. Do use any bleach that has additives like scents, splashless, or any of that stuff. Just plain bleach. Walmart is the best bet for that.

Adding the bleach will hopefully hold off the algae from taking a stranglehold on your new pool until we can get some reliable test results. As a note, pool store testing is not reliable. There are many huge flaws in their test methods, which is why we recommend DIY it the recommended test kit.

SLAM - Shock Level and Maintain

We’ve all had to deal with a green pool. Clear algae from your pool with a SLAM! Read here to use shock level and maintain to clear your pool.

www.troublefreepool.com

Start-up New Plaster

The first few months are the most criticle for a newly plastered pool. We're here to share best practices to ensure the plaster will last for many years.

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[Tena]

Hi Tenab,
its pretty much impossible for us to provide advice if we dont have test data from your water. The pH could be way too high or way too low. The same for the Total Alcalinity and the Calcium.

Our first recommendation will be to get yourself a GOOD reliable test kit. Either the TF100 (preferred) or the Taylor K2006C. You wont find the TF100 in a pool store. And unlikely the Taylor one either. there is a link in my sig that will take you the place to get the TF100

The water is most likely looking green because your Free Chlorine is not at sufficent level to fight off algae. Again, good water test numbers could shine a larger light on what you need to do to get that under control. If it algae, you'll need to perform a SLAM.

You NEED a good test kit, or you'll never get your pool under control.

While you are searching or waiting for a test kit, you can add about 3/4 gallon per day of Liquid Chlorine which is available at walmart, pool stores or big box stores that sell pool supplies. Also, plain old household bleach will do the trick too. Do use any bleach that has additives like scents, splashless, or any of that stuff. Just plain bleach. Walmart is the best bet for that.

Adding the bleach will hopefully hold off the algae from taking a stranglehold on your new pool until we can get some reliable test results. As a note, pool store testing is not reliable. There are many huge flaws in their test methods, which is why we recommend DIY it the recommended test kit.

SLAM - Shock Level and Maintain

We’ve all had to deal with a green pool. Clear algae from your pool with a SLAM! Read here to use shock level and maintain to clear your pool.

www.troublefreepool.com

Start-up New Plaster

The first few months are the most criticle for a newly plastered pool. We're here to share best practices to ensure the plaster will last for many years.

www.troublefreepool.com

Thank you for your reply. The pH is on the rise. It is not acceptable. I'm not Posting a number because my kit is so pitiful, but my guesstimate is 7.

As I said I am ordering a kit. Since you replied, lucky you!, Can you tell me I'm ready to order the TFTest kit XL. (It's in my cart with the expanded add ons) What do I need to add on for chlorine to salt conversion?

Again thanks so much. My main issue is the staining and how to treat brand new plaster.

So much reading has been done that I am being cautious.

 

[PoolGate]

Many pools are green when first filled. My was the exact same as yours. I believe it is iron in the water. That also would explain your staining. It goes away as yours already has within a few hours of chlorine being added.

 

[Tena]

PS...my water is not green at all. The fill water was green. It is currently Crystal clear. ? Just wall stains.

 

[Tena]

Many pools are green when first filled. My was the exact same as yours. I believe it is iron in the water. That also would explain your staining. It goes away as yours already has within a few hours of chlorine being added.

I agree. At this point I believe it is iron in the fill water. However, look closely at the clear pictures. Curves and deep end have pronounced staining. We have scrubbed with nylon brush daily. Some will come off, and right back on. The majority of the deep end won't scrub off.

I know (think strongly) I need a sequestering agent to grab on to that iron. But am hesitant to do an asorbic acid treatment w/o input from here.

Thanks again for your reply.

 

[CarolineM]

You will want to order Taylor K1766 Salt Test Kit.

 

[Fast7]

Have you read this Pool School guide - Stains in Your Pool?
Do Vitamin C test to confirm stain is Iron.

 

[ajw22]

Clorox xtra Blue tabs contain copper. Never buy any pool chemical labeled “Blue”. Copper will accumulate in water, stain pools, and turn hair green. Stay away from all Clorox pool products.

 

[ajw22]

What do I need to add on for chlorine to salt conversion?

There is no conversation. The SWG just changes the source of chlorine from tablets or jugs to the SWG cell.

When you are ready you add enough salt for 3000 ppm, let dissolve for 24 hours, and turn on the SWG. You then adjust the SWG % for your pool volume and pump run time to generate 3 ppm a day.

 

[Tena]

There is no conversation. The SWG just changes the source of chlorine from tablets or jugs to the SWG cell.

When you are ready you add enough salt for 3000 ppm, let dissolve for 24 hours, and turn on the SWG. You then adjust the SWG % for your pool volume and pump run time to generate 3 ppm a day.

Correct my question was in regards to test kit. What additional testing purchase?

Thank you!

 

[Tena]

Have you read this Pool School guide - Stains in Your Pool?
Do Vitamin C test to confirm stain is Iron.

Yes I have read it. I rubbed a vit C tablet on. I was like writing with chalk. So easy, it made me think the friction was do the work more than the acid.

But, it's the reason my chlorinator is off. I want my level to drop while I get my AA prep in order, Because I believe I am headed that direction. I am just concerned about doing it to week old plaster!

 

[ajw22]

Correct my question was in regards to test kit. What additional testing purchase?

Thank you!

You should have the K-1766 Taylor Salt Test in addition to the TF-100.

All the tests are the same with the SWG. You should not solely rely on the salt level reported by the cell as the cell can malfunction. So you use the K-1766 Taylor Salt Test as a double check anytime the cell reports a low or high salt condition.

 

[Tena]

Have you read this Pool School guide - Stains in Your Pool?
Do Vitamin C test to confirm stain is Iron.

Also, none of the plastic is stained yet, just the plaster. So, is it really mineral? Can't be organic...my lands! Two shocks and high level chlorine for days in just a week plus two doses of algaecide (because I did that)

 

[Fast7]

What was the source of your fill water? Well?

 

[Tena]

What was the source of your fill water? Well?

City water. ?

 

[Tena]

Many pools are green when first filled. My was the exact same as yours. I believe it is iron in the water. That also would explain your staining. It goes away as yours already has within a few hours of chlorine being added.

Yes, the green went fast. But because there was no sequestering agent added (guessing and based on reading here on new plaster start up) I have stained walls right off the start line. Builder says I have to correct and his advice is Stain Away and Jack's Magic.

We are scrubbing every day. The Vitamin C moved the stain. So I've ordered AA based on the stain recommendations here (and because nowhere on here have I read that Stainaway applied to my set of circumstances.)

My concern was treating new plaster with AA. That has not been addressed before that I am find.
(Test kit has also been ordered, I will probably have to use sodium thiosulfate to lower the Chl)

 

[Tena]

@Divin Dave
I've read the plaster start up and looked up the standards as well. Every thing the PB did was wrong and I've done wrong with the tabs. I ordered my kit the day of the op and it seems like a forever. Lol I can't wait to get it! I test every day with my two tube kit and try to keep my pH and chL in range. Although I'm trying to drop chL to treat with AA and really struggling on whether to wait on the kit or dump the AA in as my my ChL drops.

Just keep brushing...

 

[markayash]

I never had Iron ( been here 15 years ) until I had Stone coping installed and new plaster..I think the iron came off the stone..

 

[Tena]

I would not be surprised. Stone was not my choice. It was the builder's "signature". I know it's popular. Bull nose concrete would have been fine with me. It is Sloughing brown in every time it rains or gets splashed. Can it be sealed?

I am chomping at the bit to dump this AA in there! ? My Jack's will be here tomorrow and I'm tired of playing with dangerously low chlorine.