New fiberglass pool build in OBX- Current stage Fence and Landscape.

[TX2OBX]

Kind of a newbie here but I have been browsing everyones builds for months. Short story long, Bought a house in the Obx last summer as an investment, ended up selling my business and actually moved from DFW (southlake, tx) to the coast to get away from the city.

The builder basically just said "whatever you want and however you want it done we will do it" So basically I can spec what I want but want to make sure im doing it properly. When I built the pool in tx I didn't know anything about pools and trusted the contractor. It was fine but I had annoyances, mainly that the spa was pathetic and I couldn't use any of the special features when in "spa" mode or if I used the water fountains and bubblers, the pump wasn't strong enough to send water out of the returns (which meant no real heat) It was a simple single pump to run everything system, and had a single speed 1.5 Hp pump that was most likely under powered, and/or undersized plumbing.


Latham 16x35 Cancun Deluxe fiberglass pool in "night sky g3" (was originally going to do ocean blue but its even more backordered lol) with attached spa and a little sun lounge type thing. 3' concrete boarder and a 500 sqft concrete patio on shallow side of pool. Doing pavers or stamped is out of the budget at this point as I would prefer all the other things getting done. I can live with broom finish concrete for now. Drainage is also included in the decking as right now gutters drain to the existing yard where the pool will go.

Water features include
2 Hayward color logic bubblers on sun lounge
4 Hayward laminar color logic deck jets
2 fire pit planters with water fountains.

Equipment.
Main circulation pump Hayward Omni 900 1.8hp VS pump
Hayward 520 Sqft Cartridge filter.
Hayward 400k BTU NG heater.
Hayward aquarite 40k salt cell
Full Omnilogic Automation
Auto fill with overflow
waste pipe for drainage if needed.
3 colorlogic Leds in pool and 1 in spa. Not sure specific specs PB uses the same ones on every build he said.

Spa jet pump Hayward Omni 950 2.7HP VS pump (vs for control on how powerful you want the jets)
2.0 hp spa blower
separate dual MD with 3" pipe to pump and direct 3" pipe back to spa jet loop.

Water feature pump Hayward Omni 900 1.8hp VS pump
separate dual MD setup in pool with 3" pipe to pump and 3" pipe to valve setup to individually control water features. All the water features only call for 1.5" plumbing to them so I think that's safe. Any recommendations or changes here? Also is the 1.8 hp pump big enough or should I go with the 2.7? It's a ~300 dollar difference. The idea is the VS pump can ramp up or slow down depending on how many water features are running.

I think that's everything equipment wise. Plumbing layout is where im getting a little over my head and the builder is as well as he admitted they dont build very many pools with attached spas most people get separate above ground ones. IMO they look kinda cheap and honestly I dont want to take up any deck space to have one installed which is why I went with an attached model. Im going to attempt to draw a plumbing layout with what I had in mind to help visualize what im trying to describe.

I told him I wanted 2.5" plumbing on the circulation system. At least suction side and return side to the return Loop. As I recall the pools show up plumbed with returns already as we had to pick were we wanted the returns on the order sheet. Do I want 2.5" for the skimmers as well or is 2" ok on those? I also asked for a second skimmer so the pool has two skimmers and dual MD suction, as well as individual runs for each skimmer for independent control.

My end goal is to have a no sacrifice/compromise build. Where everything works and I dont have to worry about turning something off to use something else.

Attached some of the preliminary plans just to help visualize it. the "3d" rendering is very rudimentary and was just for permitting. IM hoping for a more detailed one after contract is signed.




Thanks all! hope that wasn't information overload.

 

[ajw22]

You may find information in these links helpful. I will write more to your specific questions when I have time…

Fiberglass Pools - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

Equipment Pad Best Practices - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

How to select pool equipment - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[TX2OBX]

You may find information in these links helpful. I will write more to your specific questions when I have time…

Fiberglass Pools - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

Equipment Pad Best Practices - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

How to select pool equipment - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

Good links! I had read the equipment one prior, but the specifics on fiberglass pools was a good read. My equipment pad will be an interesting one as I have to have everything installed on a platform about 3' off the ground to get it out of the flood zone, kinda like my HVAC and generator are currently installed. PB said Latham hasn't given him an update but on another build it went from no info to "its gonna be there in 2 weeks" were were working to do all we can prior to the shell arrival. Our last hurdle is HOA approval (have full C.A.M.A and county approval) but both my neighbors have signed off on the plans as "no objection" so now I can take that to the HOA and hopefully get their final sign off. Then its just wait I guess.

 

[TX2OBX]

Ok so question for the experts. Pool builder is trying hard to get me to do a separate heater for the pool and use the NG heater on the spa only. So he wants to do a heat pump on the pool hooked into the main circulation system and then plumb the NG heater to the spa pump. (since water circulates through both bodies of water I guess I could also heat/maintain temp of the spa with the heat pump) My first question with this was can the heater take the flow of a 2.7 HP pump moving water through 3" pipes or not? Specs for the Hayward heater from the online manual say it can take 100 GPM, but with 8 jets at 12 GPM each were gonna be right at that limit any time the spa is on. I'm not sure its good for the heater to be run maxed out like that every time. I also liked the idea of the 500KBTU system being able to heat both bodies of water.

I honestly think 90% of the time we will just use the spa with the jets running but the water kept the same temp as the pool. I like water around 82-84 degrees and from June-September I should be able to do that just by the sun (if the Albemarle sound temps behind the house are a good judge of that) , only seeing the need to use a heater when we actually want to heat the spa to "spa temps" or in the cooler spring and fall months to heat the pool. Which a heat pump im told won't have enough "oomph" to heat very cold water easily. But I do like the idea of the pool staying running and circulating even while were using the spa jets. The biggest thing is cost. Heat pump is going to be an extra 5-6K, not including a panel upgrade to support it as the house already has 4 heat pumps to run (Electritian confirmed enough space to run the water pumps as is). It just feels so different compared to how every pool on this site I see built which just shares one heater between the two bodies of water and you just move some valves to heat the spa. Is there any benefit to this setup at all? thoughts? thanks!

 

[ajw22]

There is no reason to have the HP in addition to the NG heater. The heater should be able to handle the spa flow but consider a Pentair heater that is speced up to 120 GPM.

When you are heating the spa the pool will stay at whatever temperature it is. There is no reason to need to heat the pool and spa at the same time.

And you can build your equipment pad with space for the HP. Live with one heater for a season or two. If you decide you want the HP it can be added later.

 

[TX2OBX]

There is no reason to have the HP in addition to the NG heater. The heater should be able to handle the spa flow but consider a Pentair heater that is speced up to 120 GPM.

When you are heating the spa the pool will stay at whatever temperature it is. There is no reason to need to heat the pool and spa at the same time.

And you can build your equipment pad with space for the HP. Live with one heater for a season or two. If you decide you want the HP it can be added later.

I honestly didn't see the need for two heaters other than a tiny bit of convenience, would rather spend the money elsewhere. Im just going to insist on the NG heater being installed on the circulation pump system and then the NG heater can heat both the pool and spa. Which is how my old pool was and how every pool build I look at on here is done.

 

[TX2OBX]

Just thought of the week as I get closer to locking everything down. The whole separate heater thing kind of has me questioning the need for three pumps. The biggest reason I wanted to separate everything is so we could use the water features while in "spa" mode. But with the features on their own pump that isn't an issue. Theoretically the main circulation pump (especially now that im going to upgrade it to the 2.7HP model) could drive the jets correct? Back in the day I understood the need for separate so you could get a smaller HP circulation pump and get the big energy hog pump for only when you wanted to use the spa. But now that all pumps are VS and high HP that's less necessary.

The benefits to going to 1 pump I see are.
one less pump to pay for and maintain.
less plumbing as we only need one suction run from the spa vs two.

only disadvantage I can think of is that it negates the ability to keep the pool and spa circulating normally if we just want to use the jets without heat. But from what I gather its ok for the pool to be stagnant at the times we want to use the spa anyway.

Other than cost savings is there any reason to have separate pumps for circulation and spa jets? Looking at specs looks like the filter can handle 150 GPH so running water through the circulation system shouldn't be an issue. Double checked with Hayward and the heater can handle 125 GPH. Not sure on the salt cell.

When ordering the pool we planned on two returns separate from the jets in the spa anyway, so they could be plumbed on the pool side when in pool mode so the spa still gets filtered when in normal mode. Since I dont have a spill over it shouldn't be an issue to leave it getting some water 24/7 as it won't raise Ph then. As I'm doing automation that wouldn't be an issue for ease of use either.

 

[ajw22]

You will be lucky if your 2.7 hp pump can push 80-100 gpm through your filter and heater. Head loss is cumulative in plumbing and the individual specs of a device does not mean the system can do it.

How much flow you need for spa jets depends how many jets you have.

If you do a one pump system and have inadequate spa jet pressure you are stuck with it. It is not easy to retrofit a second pump. The additional suction and return for a second pump is not a lot during construction.

 

[BMerrill]

2 Hayward color logic bubblers on sun lounge

The Hayward Bubblers are for Gunite Pools only. Consider the CMP version with the "H Style Lights" which are compatible with OmniLogic Automation.
Our PB could not get the CPM versions last fall for the tanning ledge, so he installed 2 returns with a spray nozzle and a 320 Colorlogic light in the side wall of the pool, works well enough. Our bubblers (2) are piped with 2" PVC.If piped correctly, they can be on one return.

4 Hayward laminar color logic deck jets

The Hayward Laminars have been extremely difficult to find. Had to switch to the CMP version with "H Style lights" for my pool install last fall.
You will need a valve for each laminar to adjust flow rates. Should be within 4' of the pools edge, 2-3" is better. The CMP Laminars have a 3/4" inlet for water, lights and 3/4" drain. Ours are located on the far side of the pool in a line. 2" piping was run to a valve box. Installed a 2" x1" tees with valves and reduced to 3/4" exiting the valves.

Main circulation pump Hayward Omni 900 1.8hp VS pump

Consider using the Hayward Tristar 950 VSP pump (2.7 HHP) for both pool and spa. Have this pump and really like it. At 3000 rpm, it flows 102 GPM through the filter and heater. The omni version is not necessary if you are using OmniLogic Automation (controller). Don't think you will need a seperate pump for the water features. We didn't install one.

3 colorlogic Leds in pool and 1 in spa. Not sure specific specs PB uses the same ones on every build he said.

Have a 40' FG pool with 5 Hayward Colorlogic 320 spa lights including the one at the tanning ledge. They are all on the house side of the pool. Don't think with our pool 4 would have been enough. With the 320 lights on OmniDirect mode, they are dimmable.
For every light or group of lights you want to control separately will require its own transformer. Keep this below 4 since HV relays that control the Colorlogic lights have to be in spaces 1 thru 4 in the controllerto properly control of the transformers. The OmniLogic comes with 4 HV relays installed. The pumps do not require a HV relay.

2" plumbing is adequate for your pool build. Consider, as the pipe size increases, the pressure decreases. On my system with 2" piping, the Tristar 950 at a flow rate of 55gpm (about 1550 RPM, 230 watts) has a pressure of 2psi. Though the flow rate is above the minimum of 30gpm for the gas heater to operate, the pressure is not, so I have to increase the flow rate to 70gpm to trip the heaters internal pressure switch.

1 skimmer is fine on a seperate suction. Instead of a main drain (2 required piped together ) have them installed 3 to 4 feet above the pool bottom and in the side wall under the skimmer. You should never drain a fiberglass pool. If this is every needed, a pool builder should do this.

The 250,000 btu heater is very adequate for your size pool. Bigger heater = faster heat up, but requires a considerably larger gas supply, piping, ect. Are you on NG or Propane? Add a bypass for the heater and backflow valve

Add valve actuators. If more than 4 are needed, you will need the expansion board for the OmniLogic.
If possible, run a CAT 6 Ethernet cable to the controller.

Add a FlowVis flow meter.

If you have the space, add an outdoor shower, or at least a foot wash.
Consider the Dolphin M600 as your robot vacuum. It is WiFi. Search on TFP for the best place to order. Yearly rebate campaigns usually start in May or June.

 

[TX2OBX]

The Hayward Bubblers are for Gunite Pools only. Consider the CMP version with the "H Style Lights" which are compatible with OmniLogic Automation.
Our PB could not get the CPM versions last fall for the tanning ledge, so he installed 2 returns with a spray nozzle and a 320 Colorlogic light in the side wall of the pool, works well enough. Our bubblers (2) are piped with 2" PVC.If piped correctly, they can be on one return.


The Hayward Laminars have been extremely difficult to find. Had to switch to the CMP version with "H Style lights" for my pool install last fall.
You will need a valve for each laminar to adjust flow rates. Should be within 4' of the pools edge, 2-3" is better. The CMP Laminars have a 3/4" inlet for water, lights and 3/4" drain. Ours are located on the far side of the pool in a line. 2" piping was run to a valve box. Installed a 2" x1" tees with valves and reduced to 3/4" exiting the valves.


Consider using the Hayward Tristar 950 VSP pump (2.7 HHP) for both pool and spa. Have this pump and really like it. At 3000 rpm, it flows 102 GPM through the filter and heater. The omni version is not necessary if you are using OmniLogic Automation (controller). Don't think you will need a seperate pump for the water features. We didn't install one.




Have a 40' FG pool with 5 Hayward Colorlogic 320 spa lights including the one at the tanning ledge. They are all on the house side of the pool. Don't think with our pool 4 would have been enough. With the 320 lights on OmniDirect mode, they are dimmable.
For every light or group of lights you want to control separately will require its own transformer. Keep this below 4 since HV relays that control the Colorlogic lights have to be in spaces 1 thru 4 in the controllerto properly control of the transformers. The OmniLogic comes with 4 HV relays installed. The pumps do not require a HV relay.

2" plumbing is adequate for your pool build. Consider, as the pipe size increases, the pressure decreases. On my system with 2" piping, the Tristar 950 at a flow rate of 55gpm (about 1550 RPM, 230 watts) has a pressure of 2psi. Though the flow rate is above the minimum of 30gpm for the gas heater to operate, the pressure is not, so I have to increase the flow rate to 70gpm to trip the heaters internal pressure switch.

1 skimmer is fine on a seperate suction. Instead of a main drain (2 required piped together ) have them installed 3 to 4 feet above the pool bottom and in the side wall under the skimmer. You should never drain a fiberglass pool. If this is every needed, a pool builder should do this.

The 250,000 btu heater is very adequate for your size pool. Bigger heater = faster heat up, but requires a considerably larger gas supply, piping, ect. Are you on NG or Propane? Add a bypass for the heater and backflow valve

Add valve actuators. If more than 4 are needed, you will need the expansion board for the OmniLogic.
If possible, run a CAT 6 Ethernet cable to the controller.

Add a FlowVis flow meter.

If you have the space, add an outdoor shower, or at least a foot wash.
Consider the Dolphin M600 as your robot vacuum. It is WiFi. Search on TFP for the best place to order. Yearly rebate campaigns usually start in May or June.

Ok good info on things I didn't know, going to reply with my thought process and feel free to critique as necessary. I know enough to be dangerous not enough to know what's correct lol.

1. bubblers, wasn't positive on this. I read pentair has an adaptor for fiberglass/vinyl on their colored bubblers, couldn't tell with Hayward. Hadn't heard of CMP until today will def mention them to PB.

2. lighting was also a concern of mine. I was going to have one added to the sun lounge just incase doing LED bubblers didn't work out.

3. Good info on the laminars. All the equipment at the moment is up in the air based on suppler availability. We have lots of flexibility with placement however. But for clarification should the valve be within 3-4' of the pool or the actual laminar itself be within 3-4'? and do I need a separate run to each laminar?

4. I was more considering the MD's for water circulation than to ever drain the pool down. (dont want cold water in the deep end if possible) Ive heard of the horror stories of empty pools and dont want that to be an issue. With that in mind however Id still like everything on separate suction runs, pool has already been ordered with 2 skimmers, however not sure if they're precut or not. But I'd like two just as a backup.

5. On circulation, suction I want to be 2.5" minimum for the MD at least. I saw a YouTube video of a basket ball getting stuck to a dual setup with 2" pipes but not getting stuck to a dual setup with 2.5" pipes. Return for main circulation I could see going down to 2" if that has enough flow to 4 returns in the pool and 2 in the spa (separate from 8 spa jets). The returns will all be on a loop and will be a 2" loop anyway (and 1.5" threaded once in the pool), but figured for traveling too and from the equipment pad 2.5" both ways would be more efficient? My equipment will be about 65' away from the pool and will be about 5 feet higher than the pool. On the spa pump I just presumed to move the amount of water for 8 jets we would need 3", same logic on the water features. Can still adjust accordingly however.

6. Already decided (just haven't updated sig yet) all pumps will be 2.7 Hp VS systems. I still like the idea of a separate pump for the water features so when using the spa we can use the fountains as well. Ive also decided to go ahead and do the separate spa jet pump just because its only ~2500 to do it now and there is no issue of trying to flow water through a heater/filter, etc.

7. Wanted to go with largest heater possible for fastest heat up time for the spa. I am currently on propane but am contracted with local NG company to have it run from the street and be turned on to NG. They know the load that all of the NG appliances will bring and will size the plumbing accordingly.

8. will make sure PB adds a bypass and check valve on the heater.

9. Def want a flowmeter presumed that was a given but will make sure its in the contract.

10. I actually brought along a dolphin that worked great from my old house and plan on using it here. Its older (from 2017) so isn't "smart" but it works fine, dont fix what isn't broke for the moment. House Already has two outdoor showers and a foot wash installed, already been wonderful to use just coming from the beach or the boat. Wanted to do a full outdoor bathroom/changing room, but just dont have the space.

I know a lot of this is overkill but I'm trying to do everything to this house now and be done with it, and have no regrets in the future. Ive gone back and forth with my pier builder about a dozen times on changes and add ons lol.



Appreciate all the info, especially the tip on the CMP lighting.

 

[TX2OBX]

getting down to nitty gritty.

PB is having trouble finding 2.5" pipe. He thankfully was able to find 3" pipe for the spa jet system. But is 2" sufficient for the main drain and returns of the circulation system? He wants to home run each return vs doing a loop, so I feel like 2" is fine for that, but would it be a bad thing to use 3" for suction on circulation? Or would that not give us enough back pressure meaning the pump needs to be run at a higher speed?

Got HOA approval today and PB informed me the pool is in about a month earlier than expected. So Were potentially looking at first or second week of May to begin dig and deliver the shell (which will sit in the front yard until craned in, sure the neighbors and HOA will love that lol)

All equipment is sourced and ordered, but PB or me have not had any luck with the Laminar deck jets, So I think were going to have to install normal deck jets instead, only nice thing is they are considerably cheaper. But if anyone knows a place im all ears.

thanks all!

 

[TX2OBX]

Anybody had any luck on a source for LED deck jet laminar systems? This is a feature I would really want but both PB and I are having issues trying to find either Hayward or CMP brilliant wonders. I attempted to place an order from one place and they emailed the next day saying they canceled.

I can locate the pentair models but no guarantee to work with my equipment, switching to pentair then has its own set of issues with availability of everything else lol. So just curious if anybody knows a source for these? Our alternative is switching to normal deck jets but id rather not if possible as that won't look as nice and I have read they are far noisier.

Thanks!

 

[TX2OBX]

So builder and I had a heart to heart today about expectations and Im losing some features due to cost and availability. Fountains are going as they came in at nearly 9500 bucks, and I just dont think that's worth it. So we nixed those. Also nixed the Laminars as we just can't find them. So doing regular deck jets instead just to have something. He says we can add laminars later if I wanted as once the plumbing is run for the current deck jets he can swap to laminar, and I might but for now this gets us swimming this summer. So with just bubblers and deck jets we elected to knock off the third pump for the water features and will run it off the pool circulation pump. Also changed the vinyl fence to wood as holy cow has vinyl gotten expensive (nearly 25k quoted to me, that's out like parachute pants for sure)

Major curve ball was thrown at me today though, he says that his Hayward rep is recommending a completely separate system to control the spa. So a second pump, heater, salt, and filter just to do the spa. Im kind of liking this idea. But it seems like an incredible overkill. However they're telling me it's the way it should be done but most people dont due to budget. They wanted to use the same pump to run the spa jets as well (so one pump for pool, one pump for spa) , but im afraid that the filter flow rating isn't enough to run the jets effectively so im still wanting a separate pump for them. But am I crazy to treat these as two separate bodies of water? The spa is not a spillover. But I am not an expert, im an idiot with a checkbook that gets talked into shiny things lol. So before I sign off on this I want to ask the experts.

 

[ajw22]

You don't need separate filter and heater and chlorination for the spa. They can be shared between two bodies of water with diverters and actuators switching them to either.

You put in a separate suction drains in the spa for the spa jets that run to a dedicated pump and back to the spa jets.

So you have two water feeds in and out of your spa. One for heating, filtering, chlorination (blue in pic below) and one for the spa jets (red in pic).

This is the way my spa is setup....

 

[ajw22]

What sources have you tried?

Polytec Pools?

Inyo Pools?

 

[TX2OBX]

You don't need separate filter and heater and chlorination for the spa. They can be shared between two bodies of water with diverters and actuators switching them to either.

You put in a separate suction drains in the spa for the spa jets that run to a dedicated pump and back to the spa jets.

So you have two water feeds in and out of your spa. One for heating, filtering, chlorination (blue in pic below) and one for the spa jets (red in pic).

This is the way my spa is setup....

That was the way I imagined them plumbing it. But hes adamant the "Hayward rep" says "separate body of water separate system is best". Its only a savings of about 3500 to do it the traditional way over the way they want. But just seems like its overly complicated and more things to fail. But if done the traditional way I would want to put the deck jets and bubblers on a separate pump again to not lose them when in spa mode. So I'm at 3 pumps either way. But I just feel like for an average fiberglass pool (PB and I) are way overthinking this. Its not a 300k gunite pool lol.

Option A
Tristar 950 for circulation, heating , filtration , and chlorination of pool and spa
Tristar 950 for spa jets.
Tristar 1.1 hp single speed pump for deck jets and bubblers

Option B
Tristar 950 for circulation, heating, filtration, and chlorination of pool as well as valved to run 6 deck jets and 2 bubblers.
Tristar 900 with its own dedicated filter and heater for spa, but "spill over" valve for chlorinated salt water on pool side.
Tristar 950 for therapy jets in spa on dedicated suction and 2 hp blower.

So taking $ out of the equation, is it truly better to have option b set up or am I being fed info from an inexperienced pool builder?

Im attaching the diagram he is going off of and would design my system to be similar. we crossed out features N/A to my build. "suction cleaner" would be second skimmer in my instance.

 

[ajw22]

So where is the "page above" that diagrams a "standard Pool/Spa system"?

There is no right or wrong here. Either configuration will work fine.

Of the thousands of pool builds that we see in the Under Construction section I can't think of any that have "Dual Equipment". Automation systems will support dual equipment but it is rarely done.

And it is totally unnecessary for a fiberglass pool/spa setup.

One reason someone may do dual equipment is if they want a gas heater for quick heat of the spa and a heat pump to maintain the pool at a constant temperature.

If I was doing two filters and heaters I would take it a step further and make it "two bodies of water" and not a "single body of water" with a spillover. Get rid of the spillover and add a chlorinator to the spa. Then the pool and spa are truly separate bodies of water operating independently.

Now you say the Hayward rep says "separate body of water" but that is different then "dual equipment" and the diagram you presented. So I don't know if there is miscommunications, or those people do not really understand the difference between "standard Pool/Spa with shared equipment", "Dual equipment", or "separate (two) bodies of water system".

This all becomes unnecessarily complicated, costs more, with more equipment to maintain and repair, and you just want a pool and spa to enjoy and not need to maintain like a nuclear power plant.

You know what KISS stand for?

Keep your pool/spa KISS.

 

[TX2OBX]

hit the nail on the head there in two ways. One in trying to KISS (why im trying to automate as much as possible). I want the pool to relax and entertain, not fiddle with 400 pumps lol.

But my main draw to the separate systems was doing the dual heaters. That's the only compelling reason I can see to do their suggested setup. Keep the pool a steady 82+ extend the season a few weeks and the spa be completely independent. If it doesn't cost an arm and a leg I could honestly see keeping the spa up at temp for entire weekends then shut it down for the weekdays/travel days. Plus in winter can heat the spa on its own and leave the pool alone. I (and the boss) are in the group that uses the spa all the time.

Im kind of regretting ordering a pool with an attached spa and not doing a separate (in ground) spa all together. But after nearly 8 months lead time im not doing a new order lol.

 

[TX2OBX]

Ok final contract and system design is signed. First draw check cut. All permits are approved, This is happening lol! Dig day is set for 23rd of May!

Even though its extremely overkill I elected to listen to PB and go ahead and do two complete independent systems on the pool and spa. All controlled by OmniPL with wireless control.

Equipment specs
Pool
-Tristar 950 VS.
-Swim clear c5030 Cartridge filter (525 sqft).
-Hayward 400k BTU NG heater.
-Aquarite 40k Salt cell.
-6 Deck jets
-2 CMP led bubblers. "h style" lights
-3 Color logic 320 LED lights facing away from house.
-3" suction from dual mains, 2" suction from skimmers independently plumbed. 4 returns all independently plumbed with 2" pipe.
Spa
-Tristar 900 VS- circulation & 4 spa jets.
-Tristar 950 VS- 8 spa jets.
-1.5 HP Jandy Blower.
-Swimclear C2030 Cartridge filter (225 Sqft)
-Hayward 250K BTU NG heater (might upgrade to 400k),
-Aquarite 15k salt cell.
-Color logic 320 LED light.
-Smaller pump will have 2" suction from dual MD's returning to loop with 4 returns in spa on lower area (like by your feet). When in spa mode these will also be used as spa jets. No blower, but pipe sticking out of ground with a valve to control how much air enters return lines. I guess its a Venturi effect.
-Larger pump will have 3" suction from second set of dual MD's, directly returning with 3" return pipe to 8 jet spa loop. Unrestricted for best spa jet action. Blower attached to this feed

Pricing and draw schedule.
I see some threads have pricing some dont. Im sharing just out of curiosity how different I would have been had I elected to go for a gunite/plaster pool. I was originally told a gunite pool would have been double. Still a little shaky after cutting that check lol. Sold my pride and joy Hummer to pay for it. But new owner is overjoyed to have it and im glad someone else can enjoy it.
Draw 1. $52,000 on receipt of permit. Final Permit issued 04-29-22 (HOA). First draw check cut 05-01-22
Draw 2. $30,000 on pool delivery.
Draw 3. $20,000 on pool deck pour (stamped concrete)
Draw 4. $5,000 on equipment install
Final draw of $5,904.75 after permits finalized, lien releases from all subs received, and any punch list items completed.

Our soil is mostly sand so they dont anticipate a big surprise when digging. But if they do find issues that's of course TBD at who knows how much per hour extra.
-Well point system for pool 2k which includes 6 well points around the pool and a sump pump. House itself is not in a flood zone but surrounding me is flood zone AE so who knows here.
-Sand/soil disposal @ $400 a load
-Concrete pump rental @ $1500 a day

Items on the pool permit but done by different contractors. (pricing rounded up)
-6' Vinyl privacy fence 130 mph wind rated (thicker vinyl and 18 foot long 6x6 posts set 12 feet in the ground) plus tear out and disposal of old wood fence $11,500
Deck and walkway to pier from pool $13,500
-New steps off second floor deck with landings and modifying existing outdoor shower to be fully enclosed (current shower is under the steps and has limited head room) $10,250
-Landscaping for both front and back yard with retaining wall built on north side of pool (where elevation changes along wood fence and planter boxes) and full irrigation installed (pool is going to destroy irrigation in back and adding to system in front yard. $27,800
-Not directly related to the pool but were planning on adding a 9 foot patio door from the master bedroom to the porch off the future pool, an outdoor kitchen on the upper deck off the main kitchen and replacing the cheap vinyl sliders in the rest of the house with french doors but depending on if any overage happen those may be pushed to next year.


Here are a couple current pics of the yard, please ignore how awful it looks lol. The two upper decks, living room in-between those decks, and all the living space below them were additions completed last year. Which pretty much killed any landscaping and what's left the PB just said there going to rip up, so we really just kinda let the back yard do its thing other than keeping the grass cut. Can't wait to not have it look like a tornado went through it.

Inspector Corgi #1 of 3 is about to be in for a shock when someone out digs him lol.

 

[Saturn94]

Love OBX, especially Ocracoke!