Is this a good price ..

Is there any "control" panel or similiar I can integrate into my equipment setup to have "smart" features/controls? Not sure what would be controlled, imagine just the lights. Should I do any automation?
I would not get a pool without automation and web access. I love being able to control things from my phone and the piece of mind knowing the swg is running when on vacation is priceless. Most vendors have automation that works with their equipment best so if you go Hayward get their automation setup. Not needed for some but a necessity for others.
 
Anyone see any issue with this type of wall system. He said they do implement concrete footings etc.
 

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Anyone see any issue with this type of wall system.
How so ? If you're asking if composite wall in ground pools are OK, they're great. Unlike steel walls, they'll never rust.

If I had all 3 options in front of me, composite would need to be discounted over concrete to sway me that way because if concrete fails, it's repairable. Steel would have to be substantially discounted with future repair issues all but guaranteed.

Then again, being close to 50, I may gamble some days that I won't care in 30+ years if I really liked the builder.
 
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I have a Pentair 3HP pump on my pool (11K gallons) is it overkill yes but most of the time it runs around 80 watts and silently. I would also check to see if you can get an electrically rebate on the pump. I got a $500 rebate from my electric supplier but it had to be on their list of approved energy star pumps.
 
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So most all the pool builders are telling me a 3HP pump( Hayward is 2.7HP) is too big for a 16x32 pool. One guy said he uses that on a commercial 30x50' pool.
We've outlined the pros and cons of a larger pump. Pros: You can run at slower speeds to get the same flow (reducing electrical cost), less noise, runs cooler, may last longer running at lower RPMs, more headroom for when you want high flow. Cons: cost more upfront.

Go back to post #100 in this thread. You will be just fine with any VSP you decide to install...

 
If it helps any, no matter which way you choose, you'll coulda-woulda-shoulda with the rest of us. ;)
 

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He quoted a 300 sq ft filter.
There is no such pump as a Hayward Super Pump® VS 950. There is a Hayward TRITON VS950.
I'd include a heater bypass.
 
Do you know the cost for the gas line ? It can be substantial in the thousands. It's not a deal breaker because it is what it is no matter who you choose to build. You'll either pivot to a HP or go without if it's outrageous.

Overall this quote is looking much better.

I'd skip the massage jets. Thats 1/4 of your hot tub, and they'll be a tiny fraction of the therapeutic enjoyment
 
Awwww crud. I have to nitpick anyway, because PBs don't t like to itemize. You see, when you skip the heater because the gas line install is too expensive, you have no clue they charged you $6k on that quote for the heater and hookup, but only credit you $2500.
 
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Quote seems good, definitely stick with the gas heater on LI. I had a HP, and it worked, but gas would have been nice for the quick heat it provides early, and late in the season. Hopefully the builder has good reviews. I would rather pay a little more for a reputable builder. Agree about eliminating the spa jets, but that is obviously a personal thing.
 
So I think I found a good spot for my equipment pad and really the only spot. The only problem is there's some branches that come close to being over it from my neighbor's yard. I guess I could trim them but is there any reason I couldn't build or put some type of overhead shield above the equipment pad to prevent debris and other stuff from falling on it?
 
If it's dropping twigs, leaves and acorns, I wouldn't even bother. If its dropping 12 foot limbs........ :ROFLMAO:

But yeah. A simple lean-to type roof with 4x4 posts would shield it. Many in the hot climates do it for UV protection but that's no biggie up here. Consider the height needed to remove the filter lid and cartridges when planning it out. It's needs to be almost tall enough to walk under, and at that point, go another 12 inches and be comfortable under there.
 
Pentair's guideline is to aim for 4 lumens per square foot of pool surface. For example, if the pool is 500 sq-ft, you need 500x4=2000 lumens. This would be 4 MicroBrites or 2 IntelliBrite rgb.

Inyo Pools also has a good blog on How Many Lights Do I Need For My Pool? with a table summarizing the coverage of the different Pentair lights.

From Hayward Lighting Guide ...

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Jandy has a Nicheless LED Lighting Design Guide attached below.


 

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Pentair's guideline is to aim for 4 lumens per square foot of pool surface. For example, if the pool is 500 sq-ft, you need 500x4=2000 lumens. This would be 4 MicroBrites or 2 IntelliBrite rgb.

Inyo Pools also has a good blog on How Many Lights Do I Need For My Pool? with a table summarizing the coverage of the different Pentair lights.

From Hayward Lighting Guide ...

View attachment 633834
View attachment 633836
Jandy has a Nicheless LED Lighting Design Guide attached below.


Thank you very much
 
I went with 1 old school 500 watt bulb under the diving board. I read too many stories of the expensive LEDs being replaced every couple years.

If I ever open up my light, I'll put a multicolor LED floodlight type bulb back in because those go on sale under $100 on Amazon and i won't mind if it only lasts 2 years.

In the meantime, they make plastic Lens covers for the old housing that snap on in 1 second. Singles were $14 each and the 5 pack was $40 ish. It made a decent difference, the pics don't fully capture it of course but you'll get the idea from more yellow-y to more blue.


Screenshot_20250323_081640_Gallery.jpg

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