How do i know if i'm generating Chlorine?

dconnest

Active member
Jun 13, 2020
31
Cumming, GA
Hello,
First time posting, just joined. I have a 16x30 liner pool 6' deep end 14,400 gallons. pool and system is new only open 1 1/2 months last summer before it was closed for the winter. i live in Georgia. i've been having issues keeping the chlorine levels up. i have an Aquacal Autopilot nano+ generator. Hayward 3030 cartridge filter with a super pump. i've had the water tested at least 4 times since it's been open (1 month). initial opening and test just had to add 3 bags salt. a week later i noticed very minor algae growth, chlorine was low. water test showed i needed stabilizer and calcium. a week later chlorine is again low. within the first 2-3 weeks i've boosted the system 3 times. 2 days ago i had water tested again and everything was perfect, but chlorine which was almost 0. again boosted and added 2lb shock. now, 2 days later chlorine is again near zero. autopilot says it's running at 60%, there is no algae at all. had water tested again today. i'm going to post the results and the setup from the autopilot. today i added 1lb shock and again put on boost.

why do i keep bottoming out and how do i know if the generator is actually working.
 

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Welcome to the forum!
Can you see bubbles coming out of your returns when the SWCG is running?
It is very likely your SWCG cannot overcome the algae in your pool water.
You need to follow the SLAM Process. To do that, you need a proper test kit, see Test Kits Compared. I suggest the TF-100 A proper test kit is needed to get the accurate water chemistry results needed to follow the TFP protocols.
I suggest you read ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry.
 
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forgot to mention my pool is in 100% sunlight all day. temps are in the mid 80's and i run my pool 10 hours per day. is that ok or should it run more? how long should i wait to test the water again since i shocked it about an hour ago? 1lb of shock.
 
Welcome to the forum!
Can you see bubbles coming out of your returns when the SWCG is running?
It is very likely your SWCG cannot overcome the algae in your pool water.
You need to follow the SLAM Process. To do that, you need a proper test kit, see Test Kits Compared. I suggest the TF-100 A proper test kit is needed to get the accurate water chemistry results needed to follow the TFP protocols.
I suggest you read ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry.
forgot to mention my pool is in 100% sunlight all day. temps are in the mid 80's and i run my pool 10 hours per day. is that ok or should it run more? how long should i wait to test the water again since i shocked it about an hour ago? 1lb of shock.
 
When you get your test kit. Take a sample from one of your return jets with a tube when the SWG is generating. and compare the result with the water in the main pool. If the cell working you will get a higher Chlorine reading from the tube. You can also so a quick a dirty with a test strip if you have any lying around.. move the test strip in front of the return.. and it should register higher chlorine.
 
i run my pool 10 hours per day.
You are adding 2.2 ppm FC per day with the SWCG. That is likely not enough. But that does not matter until you can accurately test your pool water chemistry and follow the SLAM Process to rid your pool of algae.
 
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Welcome to the forum!
Can you see bubbles coming out of your returns when the SWCG is running?
It is very likely your SWCG cannot overcome the algae in your pool water.
You need to follow the SLAM Process. To do that, you need a proper test kit, see Test Kits Compared. I suggest the TF-100 A proper test kit is needed to get the accurate water chemistry results needed to follow the TFP protocols.
I suggest you read ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry.
You got me thinking so when were swimming tonight I checked and sure enough there is small air bubbles blowing out of the returns. The pump housing cover has zero air and the filter bleeder releases zero air. Doesn’t look like I’m sucking air on the intake side. What do u think that means?
 
Hey! Georgia in the house! Welcome to TFP, dconnest! Without a proper home test kit you'll never be able to monitor your pool's health closely. Going days between tests *when you have a problem* developing allows that problem to get far ahead of any cure it might take to fix it.

My advice is to stop going to the pool store. Get a GOOD kit ( www.tftestkits.net ships from NC, fast) and determine what your actual levels are for:
FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA
Salt

Then based on suggested levels and needs, with the help of PoolMath PoolMath you'll learn to add just what your pool needs and nothing else. (*that nothing else is the pool store's biggest money maker! They convince folks to buy costly potions and lotions that are NOT needed!)
n it
That algae needs liquid chlorine and you to perform a SLAM process it-


Questions? holler...

Maddie
 

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Hey! Georgia in the house! Welcome to TFP, dconnest! Without a proper home test kit you'll never be able to monitor your pool's health closely. Going days between tests *when you have a problem* developing allows that problem to get far ahead of any cure it might take to fix it.

My advice is to stop going to the pool store. Get a GOOD kit ( www.tftestkits.net ships from NC, fast) and determine what your actual levels are for:
FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA
Salt

Then based on suggested levels and needs, with the help of PoolMath PoolMath you'll learn to add just what your pool needs and nothing else. (*that nothing else is the pool store's biggest money maker! They convince folks to buy costly potions and lotions that are NOT needed!)
n it
That algae needs liquid chlorine and you to perform a SLAM process it-


Questions? holler...

Maddie
Thanks Maddie,
Curious since you’re in GA how long do u run your pump? I’m in North, GA.
Also, looking at the site with the test kits, what’s with all the options? Do I need any of them? 8D81DDDE-5392-4A8E-A53D-FD81956D8156.jpeg
 
I am in Marietta Ga and I run mine 24 hours on low speed. I am surrounded my trees so mainly do it to keep it clean.
My chlorine was fine but after I let my level drop for a stain treatment and a lot of rain it went back to normal then dropped to zero and I noticed a few algae spots so doing a SLAM now
 
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I don't have a variable speed pump, so I'm only running mine for about 6 hours a day. I don't have a lot of debris right now to need skimming.

Regarding those extras available- the salt test K-1766 is a must, IMO, for accurate salt readings. The SpeedStir is a nice extra cause instead twirling the test vial in one hand while adding drops of reagent with the other it lets you put the yest vial on the device and lets it stir it while you add reagent. Just makes it easier. You don't need anything else with the test kit than those.

Maddie
 
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Thanks everyone. For right now I’m just trying to keep the chlorine level high until my test kit arrives. As everyone recommended I ordered the tf-100 kit, speed stir and k-1766 salt test this morning. I added the 1lb shock yesterday, left the pool running overnight on boost. This morning the chlorine looked to be at least 3 and the ph was 7.8. I added more acid to bring that down based on the recommendation form the pool math app. I may be asking a few more questions once I get the test kit. I’ll keep you posted. Thanks again to everyone for your help.
 
Welcome to the forum!
Can you see bubbles coming out of your returns when the SWCG is running?
It is very likely your SWCG cannot overcome the algae in your pool water.
You need to follow the SLAM Process. To do that, you need a proper test kit, see Test Kits Compared. I suggest the TF-100 A proper test kit is needed to get the accurate water chemistry results needed to follow the TFP protocols.
I suggest you read ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry.

Hello again,
I have a quick question for you while I wait for my test kit which will be here Thursday. I'm reviewing the slam process and in the instructions it brought me to the Chlorine / CYA Chart that shows CYA levels 60, 70 and 80 and what the SLAM FC should be. My last water test showed 57 for CYA. Further down in the instructions it says "SLAMing an outdoor pool is most effective when CYA is around 30 to 40". The report I got from the pool store says Cyanuric Acid should be between 50-100 ppm. I'm confused as to what the CYA and SLAM FC should be when i'm about to start the slam process.

lastly, I read that liquid shock is better for the SLAM process which is fine. Obviously i'll use the pool math app to figure out how much I need to add. My last question is what type of sanitizer is liquid shock? Cal-Hypo, trichlor, dichlor, lithium hypo??? I really don't know the difference between these types.
Thanks again for all the help. i'm sure this is going to get easier. and here i thought maintaining a pool was simple.

Thanks,
Dave
 
Your pool is treated as non-SWCG pool while following the SLAM Process. The salt in the water is of no consequence. So it is much better to follow the SLAM process at a CYA of 30-40. It can be done with higher CYA, but just lends to lots of testing reagent use and error in testing.

Liquid shock aka liquid chlorine aka chlorinating liquid aka bleach are all the same. Sodium Hypochlorite.
 
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Your pool is treated as non-SWCG pool while following the SLAM Process. The salt in the water is of no consequence. So it is much better to follow the SLAM process at a CYA of 30-40. It can be done with higher CYA, but just lends to lots of testing reagent use and error in testing.

Liquid shock aka liquid chlorine aka chlorinating liquid aka bleach are all the same. Sodium Hypochlorite.
Crud, sorry, one more question. if the CYA is down to 30-40 for the SLAM process after which when i meet the 3 criteria (clear pool, no overnight loss, CC .5 or less) do i need to increase that CYA back up over 50 by adding dry stabilizer?
 

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