You have to turn the chlorinator off at night to do the OCLT test. Too hard to guess on this. One of the basic tenants of TFP is we do not guess what to do. We test properly then take an action. This may sound a little rigid but it works. A proper OCLT test is very easy to do and well worth it to prevent algae issues...
I read through this thread a little and something isn't making sense with your swg. Is there a way to set it for manual operation? You can use Pool Math to estimate the settings for manual operation. I would switch to manual if you can. Pool Math indicates you need 8 hrs at 60% power to add 2.5 ppm. This would be a good starting point for this time of year in your location. Sunny hot days can consume up to 4 ppm. After you get lined out on manual you may want to try automatic mode again. I just don't know how they can reliably work without calibration of the FC measurement device.
I hope this is helpful.
Chris
Thanks Chris, sorry if my posts are all over the place and confusing. The SWCG has been off the entire slam process. So my testing has been 100% Accurate. All the talk about the SWCG was for when I turn it back on. Last night after the sun went down I added liquid chlorine to bring pool back to 20. 30 min later tested to confirm. This morning checked again along with CC which is 0. Pump has been running24hrs since Thur with SWCG off. Testing FC 4 times per day adding as needed per pool math. I feel I got the process down, and now I finally think I understand the SWCG and to PROPERLY set it up once I turn it back on.
OCLT this morning was 2ppm
CC=0
Pool is crystal clear
I was thinking of setting the SWCG at 70% and the pump runs for 10 hrs.
since I am new at this please tell me how you figured this out in pool math “Pool Math indicates you need 8 hrs at 60% power to add 2.5 ppm.”.