First time testing

[PoolStored]

Not sure what you’re asking here. I have read about aeration so I just thought I should ask about it.

Second rule of TFP. Know what your are adding or doing to you pool, and why.

Not sure what you’re asking here.

You asked if you should be aerating. I asked you what are you trying to accomplish [by aerating] and why?

 

[cwswifty]

Also pool math says double what I added to achieve 7.6 so I feel ok with what I did, but my next tests will show how much I messed up

Based on what current pH? Did you use 8.6 as a result from the comparator block that only goes as high as 8.2?

 

[quantumcosmic]

Second rule of TFP. Know what your are adding or doing to you pool, and why.


You asked if you should be aerating. I asked you what are you trying to accomplish [by aerating] and why?

Is there a list of these unwritten rules? I don’t see anything like that in the Forum Rules located in the hamburger menu…?
As I said previously I don’t know what it would be accomplishing, I just have seen it thrown around a lot on the forum here so I asked if it is something I should be doing. Just like the rest of the chemicals I’ve added, before asking on this forum I didn’t know what any of them do. So aeration is just like that, from my perspective. No clue what it does, just seen it around and thought I should ask.

Based on what current pH? Did you use 8.6 as a result from the comparator block that only goes as high as 8.2?

Correct. You can look at the photos I posted today, it is significantly darker than 8.2 and 8.6 may even be conservative, who knows. Does an extended test block exist?

 

[PoolStored]

Is there a list of these unwritten rules? I don’t see anything like that in the Forum Rules located in the hamburger menu…?

It is in the unwritten, undocumented list. Lol

You aerate to raise pH. That is the sole purpose. If you have water features and you run them, they will cause aeration.

Aeration is a tool to help lower TA. The process works by using Muriatic acid to lower pH and Lower TA at the same time. You can then use aeration to raise pH without raising TA. It is a process and takes some number of days/weeks to lower TA using this process. Without aeration works the same. Just manage pH with Muriatic and your TA will come down over time, assuming your fill TA isn't high.

Test your fill water TA and report it.

 

[quantumcosmic]

It is in the unwritten, undocumented list. Lol

You aerate to raise pH. That is the sole purpose. If you have water features and you run them, they will cause aeration.

Aeration is a tool to help lower TA. The process works by using Muriatic acid to lower pH and Lower TA at the same time. You can then use aeration to raise pH without raising TA. It is a process and takes some number of days/weeks to lower TA using this process. Without aeration works the same. Just manage pH with Muriatic and your TA will come down over time, assuming your fill TA isn't high.

Test your fill water TA and report it.

Ah, I see, fight club rules then.

Fill water TA is ~100.

 

[PoolStored]

I wouldn't worry about aeration. Just keep your pH in the 7s with muriatic acid.

 

[quantumcosmic]

I know I have other issues to worry about now but is there any way to remove the water line scaling I have? I’ve scraped with a nylon brush with little improvement. Is this a chemical thing that will go away once balance or should I use a metal bristle brush?

Edit: I found the calcium scaling page in pool school.

 

[mknauss]

Waterline Scale Removal - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[quantumcosmic]

I wouldn't worry about aeration. Just keep your pH in the 7s with muriatic acid.

Got it. How frequently should I brush after the additions I’ve made? How soon could I swim?

Waterline Scale Removal - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

Thank you

 

[PoolStored]

Brush for 30 seconds and swim away!

 

[quantumcosmic]

Went for a swim earlier and the water felt much better. Much less “slippery” than previous which I assume is due to the lower pH.

I ran some tests afterword which I know will change 24 hours later but I digress.

FC - 5
pH - ~8.4 - definitely a lighter color than previous, still definitely darker than 8.2
TA - 260
CH - 175
CYA - 65
SC - 3800

So trending the right direction for now. Will update tomorrow after 24 hours.

On a side note I used a nylon brush on the calcium buildup at the water line to clean up random debris that was stuck to it. I noticed some small deposits of algae where the calcium built up on the grout between tiles. Should I be worried?

 

[Texas Splash]

I noticed some small deposits of algae where the calcium built up on the grout between tiles. Should I be worried?

Just hit it with chlorine and a small brush. It may have tried to root in there a bit, but with consistent attention it should be fine. Also continue to be vigilant with that pH to help prevent future scale.

 

[Newdude]

Ah, I see, fight club rules then.

Oh we discuss them alright. It's just implied from a basic understanding the pool school material. Here ya go:

1) know where you are (reliable testing)
2) know where you want to be
3) know what you are adding
4) know what it will do
5) watch it do
6) confirm it did
7) enjoy trouble free pool.

 

[quantumcosmic]

Oh we discuss them alright. It's just implied from a basic understanding the pool school material. Here ya go:

1) know where you are (reliable testing)
2) know where you want to be
3) know what you are adding
4) know what it will do
5) watch it do
6) confirm it did
7) enjoy trouble free pool.

See, now I’m confused because I thought the second rule was to know what you’re adding LOL

 

[quantumcosmic]

Alright so my results today:

pH - 8.5? Seems slightly darker than yesterday evening but lighter than before. See photo. Which is odd because I added ~40oz of muriatic this morning before work to help lower it more but it didn’t seem to do anything?
FC - 12.5
CC - 0.5
CH - 175
TA - ~255
SC - 3800
CYA - ~51-52

 

[Newdude]

Which is odd because I added ~40oz of muriatic this morning before work to help lower it more but it didn’t seem to do anything?

Welp. It had all day to rise again. But also a 8.2+, may be an emphasis on the '+' part. (Or similarly on the 6.8 'minus' part).

When unsure you need to retest 15 mins later to know you hit a 7.X again. Lather, rinse, repeat if needed.


Also I often use both sides and do 4 drops in one and 5 drops in the other, then use the one that's closest to the scale.

 

[Texas Splash]

Yes, the pH is elevated. Since your TA is elevated as well, I would use enough muriatic acid to lower the pH from say 8.2 to 7.2. Use the PoolMath APP to help you with the dosage. Each time the pH climbs up to the 8.0-8.2 range repeat. When you lower the pH from such a large swing, it helps to lower tne TA as well.

 

[bobloblaw42]

Alright so my results today:

pH - 8.5? Seems slightly darker than yesterday evening but lighter than before. See photo. Which is odd because I added ~40oz of muriatic this morning before work to help lower it more but it didn’t seem to do anything?

I find that 4 drops of phenol red 0014 is easier to read on my TF Pro comparator. Might consider testing a couple times 3 then 4 then 5 drops per sample attempt and see what you find easiest to compare.

 

[PoolStored]

@quantumcosmic Your FC is over 10. When FC is over 10, your pH test is invalid. I would not reduce your pH until your FC falls below 10 and you retest.

 

[quantumcosmic]

Welp. It had all day to rise again. But also a 8.2+, may be an emphasis on the '+' part. (Or similarly on the 6.8 'minus' part).

When unsure you need to retest 15 mins later to know you hit a 7.X again. Lather, rinse, repeat if needed.


Also I often use both sides and do 4 drops in one and 5 drops in the other, then use the one that's closest to the scale.

What do you mean by “6.8 ‘minus’ part” ?

Yes, the pH is elevated. Since your TA is elevated as well, I would use enough muriatic acid to lower the pH from say 8.2 to 7.2. Use the PoolMath APP to help you with the dosage. Each time the pH climbs up to the 8.0-8.2 range repeat. When you lower the pH from such a large swing, it helps to lower tne TA as well.

Will do, thanks.

I find that 4 drops of phenol red 0014 is easier to read on my TF Pro comparator. Might consider testing a couple times 3 then 4 then 5 drops per sample attempt and see what you find easiest to compare.

Should I also use less water for the sample? I guess I’m a bit confused on this. How would my result even be comparable if I’m not following the “correct” way?

@quantumcosmic Your FC is over 10. When FC is over 10, your pH test is invalid. I would not reduce your pH until your FC falls below 10 and you retest.

Oh really? Interesting and good to know.