First time testing

[quantumcosmic]

Edit2: forgot to mention I used kemtek 10% chlorinating liquid.

Alright so here are all my test results this morning. Worth mentioning that the SWCG did run all night long on my normal pump schedule of 8pm-6am.

The water I tested was from elbow deep of the deep end of my pool.

I’ve included photos to make sure I am getting the correct colors/changes vs what should be expected.

FC - 7 - stupidly I decided to take photos after this test, but I am confident in this one by now.

CC - 0.5-1 this is the first photo, 1 drop 871 seemed VERY faintly pink still, more faint than the photo (which is after 2 drops 871), so I added another drop to be sure. I thought my mind was playing tricks on me.

CH - 200 - this is the 2nd photo, showing the first indication of blue. Should it be more blue?

TA - test 1 - 300, test 2 - 260-300 - I performed twice because I didn’t get photos the first time. This is photos 3-7, from 26 drops in photo 3 to 30 drops in photo 7. I wasn’t sure how red it should be hence numerous photos.

CYA - <30? - see photo 8. This is the CYA cylinder filled to the 30 mark. This is exactly as it looked the first time I did it.

SC - 4000 or 4200ppm - see photo 9-10, photo 11 will be in a post below this due to photo limit. Photo 9 is how yellow the water was after 1 drop 0630. Photo 10 is after 20 drops of 0718 and photo 11 is after 21 drops 0718. Hence the range I gave.

In the post below will be my pH and 21 drops 0718 SC result.

Edit: for readability

 

[quantumcosmic]

Here is my pH and 21 drops 0718 SC test.

Please let me know if any water colors are wrong or whatever. I tried to get each photo on the initial change of each color. If this is incorrect please advise, the testing instructions don’t give reference for color strength so I am very open to constructive criticism.

Thanks all.

 

[Texas Splash]

Okay, so we'll go one item at a time.

FC - Since it was about zero last night, and you said the SWG was off as well, I'm assuming you added a gallon of liquid chlorine before bed? Also, let's confirm your testing method:
- 10ml water sample size with one generous scoop of powder (should turn pinkish), then add drops while mixing until clear. Example: 20 drops to clear = and FC of 10. Was that your process?

CC - No problem

pH - 5 drops of R-0014 gently mixed in the OTO viewer; definitely high. Time for some muriatic acid to prevent scale. Try to add enough muriatic acid to lower the pH down to 7.2. Use the PoolMath APP or ask if you need help. As with chlorine, pour slowly near the return jets with water moving well. Watch for splashing and wind direction.

TA - The key is that final color change. I describe the final color as a sort of Barbie pink, but the key is when it no longer changes. For example, let's say you add 20 drops and you think you are done (200), add one more drop to be sure. If the shade doesn't change, then it was 20 drops or 200. So watch the color change and when you think you're done, add one more (bonus) drop to be sure there is no change. A TA of 100+ is high for you, but we can work on that later. Watch the pH and FC more closely for now.

CH - Looks correct. I stop at that light baby blue as well. As with the TA though, you can give it an extra drop or two and if there was no more change, you had already hit your final result.

CYA - Definitely low and could easily explain the drastic FC loss during the day. Time to add some granular stabilizer via the sock method. For now, I would add about 40 ppm worth of stabilizer. Place the granules in a tube sock and let the sock soak for about 30 min. Then take it over the the return jets and squeeze all the mushy stuff out. Done. Re-test the CYA about 24 hrs later to find your new CYA. Eventually we need to get your CYA up to 70, but let's go in stages to not over-shoot.

 

[quantumcosmic]

Apologies I forgot to add the photos of my pool itself. See below.

Edit: increased picture size/quality

 

[Texas Splash]

Yep, that's Phx alright. All my days stationed at Luke, brings back memories. Anyhoo, water looks good. Today I would focus on adding the stabilizer as noted above, some muriatic acid to lower the pH to about 7.2, and keep chlorine handy in case it should fall for some reason and the SWG not able to keep up. The stabilizer should help, but having some liquid ready is a good idea.

 

[quantumcosmic]

Okay, so we'll go one item at a time.

FC - Since it was about zero last night, and you said the SWG was off as well, I'm assuming you added a gallon of liquid chlorine before bed? Also, let's confirm your testing method:
- 10ml water sample size with one generous scoop of powder (should turn pinkish), then add drops while mixing until clear. Example: 20 drops to clear = and FC of 10. Was that your process?

CC - No problem

pH - 5 drops of R-0014 gently mixed in the OTO viewer; definitely high. Time for some muriatic acid to prevent scale. Try to add enough muriatic acid to lower the pH down to 7.2. Use the PoolMath APP or ask if you need help. As with chlorine, pour slowly near the return jets with water moving well. Watch for splashing and wind direction.

TA - The key is that final color change. I describe the final color as a sort of Barbie pink, but the key is when it no longer changes. For example, let's say you add 20 drops and you think you are done (200), add one more drop to be sure. If the shade doesn't change, then it was 20 drops or 200. So watch the color change and when you think you're done, add one more (bonus) drop to be sure there is no change. A TA of 100+ is high for you, but we can work on that later. Watch the pH and FC more closely for now.

CH - Looks correct. I stop at that light baby blue as well. As with the TA though, you can give it an extra drop or two and if there was no more change, you had already hit your final result.

CYA - Definitely low and could easily explain the drastic FC loss during the day. Time to add some granular stabilizer via the sock method. For now, I would add about 40 ppm worth of stabilizer. Place the granules in a tube sock and let the sock soak for about 30 min. Then take it over the the return jets and squeeze all the mushy stuff out. Done. Re-test the CYA about 24 hrs later to find your new CYA. Eventually we need to get your CYA up to 70, but let's go in stages to not over-shoot.

FC - last night sample was taken from wrist deep of middle point of pool. I added no chemicals last night.
That is the method I followed. Heaping scoop powder, turned instant pink, etc. So It took exactly 14 drops to go clear. I added a 15th drop to be sure, no change.

I did mean to ask - I measure all water level in the graduated cylinders without the mixing bead first, then add the mixing bead. This may be why the samples seem over the required measurements. Is this correct?

pH - as I stated previously, I don’t really have accessible return jets other than the in floor cleaning system. The most ccessible would be the ones on the Baja step or the safety step in the deep end.

TA - I’ll mention here that with all tests I add drops until there is no more change, except the SC test as instructions say too much makes brown which is bad.

CYA - see above about return jets, see below for locations. I’ll need to buy some stabilizer. Does poolmath calculate how much I’d need to add?

 

[quantumcosmic]

Yep, that's Phx alright. All my days stationed at Luke, brings back memories. Anyhoo, water looks good. Today I would focus on adding the stabilizer as noted above, some muriatic acid to lower the pH to about 7.2, and keep chlorine handy in case it should fall for some reason and the SWG not able to keep up. The stabilizer should help, but having some liquid ready is a good idea.

What do you mean by have some liquid ready?

 

[Texas Splash]

I measure all water level in the graduated cylinders without the mixing bead first, then add the mixing bead.

Me too.

I don’t really have accessible return jets other than the in floor cleaning system.

Ah shoot, okay. Then you'll have to pour slowly in the deep end and brush it around.

Does poolmath calculate how much I’d need to add?

It does. If you're not sure though, just ask. No problem for dosing. For that one you can squeeze the mush near the shelf jets and let it flow out. Easy stuff there.

 

[Texas Splash]

What do you mean by have some liquid ready?

Liquid chlorine. Always good to have a gallon available as a back-up just in case. Since you tested after work and i he FC was near zero, liquid is a good way to increase FC quickly if needed. That's all.

 

[Texas Splash]

Well I just tested when I got home today and my chlorine is at maybe 0.5 if I’m being generous. Adding the DPD didn’t change color at all

In Post 39 you said this about last night, but now I'm confused because you also said the SWG was off and you did not add any liquid correct? Then how was the FC at 7 this morning? Am I mis-interpreting something?

 

[quantumcosmic]

In Post 39 you said this about last night, but now I'm confused because you also said the SWG was off and you did not add any liquid correct? Then how was the FC at 7 this morning? Am I mis-interpreting something?

You are not. I have not added anything since the previous 2 gallons of chlorine. That was my level yesterday after work. The only thing I can think is maybe where I pulled the water from not being deep enough. It was wrist deep from the middle depth of the pool. Maybe just the surface was low? Who knows.

Edit: Maybe you are actually. I have not added any chlorine since I said I added 2gal before. Yesterday that was my FC level when I got home.
The SWCG ran all night like it normally would and my FC level is was what I posted this morning after the SWCG ran all night.

Worth mentioning I test by getting a clean large cup full of water and bringing it inside before conducting the tests.

I will also mention that I have never cleaned my SWCG. I took it apart once to do so after 2 years but it looked new vs pictures online.

I have also never added salt since the initial addition on start up after build completion.

Apologies for trickling information, I’m remembering things as I go.

 

[newdude]

Apologies for trickling information, I’m remembering things as I go.

No worries. This isn't our first rodeo and it's alot of info for you to straighten out, learn and/or unlearn. We get it. We were there too once.

 

[quantumcosmic]

Should I lower my SWCG output? I don’t remember right now what it’s set to but I think 4 lights are on usually when it’s running. I’ll double check tonight.

Also without knowing the exact CYA level due to the test not being conclusive, how much should I start with? I told Pool Math my CYA may be around 10 and it says 6lbs of dry stabilizer.

 

[Texas Splash]

Leave the cell output alone for now. If it increases over 8, then perhaps.

 

[Texas Splash]

For water samples, yours could get tricky since you have limited circulation. Try to get the sample from the same location and go as deep as your arm will allow.

 

[quantumcosmic]

Can you explain the limited circulation?
I can see how much water the nozzles move which is based off pump speed. It runs pretty high all night and I know they move a good amount of water because I can see the surface bubble and roil when they’re on. Not in the deep end so much but definitely in the shallow end. Even more so on the steps which I know isn’t a good indicator alone.
I just can’t imagine them not circulating enough. Also I have my pump set to cycle the whole volume of the pool at least once overnight. I’d have to do the math again cuz it might be more but 1x for sure.

 

[apono]

From my experience - adding dry stabilizer also lowering pH. For example, to add 10 CYA, pH decreases by ~0.2.

 

[quantumcosmic]

From my experience - adding dry stabilizer also lowering pH. For example, to add 10 CYA, pH decreases by ~0.2.

Add 10 what CYA? Like ppm or lbs?

 

[PoolStored]

Also without knowing the exact CYA level due to the test not being conclusive, how much should I start with? I told Pool Math my CYA may be around 10 and it says 6lbs of dry stabilizer.

You are in AZ. Go ahead and add 40ppm of CYA. That would be 4lbs in a 12,400 gallon pool.

Can you explain the limited circulation?

You are only running your pump at night.

Add 10 what CYA? Like ppm or lbs?

Ignore this. Your pH change with the addition of CYA doesn't matter, it will correctly quickly.

 

[quantumcosmic]

You are in AZ. Go ahead and add 40ppm of CYA. That would be 4lbs in a 12,400 gallon pool.

You are only running your pump at night.

Ignore this. Your pH change with the addition of CYA doesn't matter, it will correctly quickly.

Should I be running it all the time?