When the color shows low pH on the bottom of the comparator.
No. It is about the color, not the intensity. Sometimes people can see the color better when it is less intense. It's still the same test.
Above or below range may be further out of range than the 6.8 or 8.2 suggests. So it's really a 6.4 and dosing to 7.2 only raises it to 6.8, and needs another dose. Or another dose after that if it was even lower. (Or the reverse when 'high')
I means to add to my prev reply but why is pH invalid with high FC?
www.troublefreepool.com
I see. Thanks for the advice. Is there not an “extended” pH comparator that goes from like 6.0 to 9.0? I know it would be pretty niche since most people prob keep it pretty under control but I can’t find one even non-pool related…
We reccomend only dosing .4 at a time as a larger swing is less predictable. So the regular block serves us just fine. If you need more doses after confirming it did/didn't work, better to be thorough and right than sloppy and wrong.
I just bumped it up to 24/7 as you and some others suggested. It runs just low enough to keep the IC40 going for 14hrs. Then bumps up to high for 2hrs for the in floor cleaning and then 8hrs at a medium speed to ensure turn over. The IC40 is/was also on full output during all that. I was told not to mess with the output before, but it seems like I prob should now LOL
www.troublefreepool.com
You run your pump for a reason. SWCG, heater, skimming, floor cleaning, etc. I get good skimming, swcg output and a happy heater at 1700. I run that for 24/7. For you, you might try low speed all day, the higher speed for in floor cleaning for you 2 or whatever number of hours works. SWCG output is the same, low or high speed.
Running at 30%, the IC-40 will add 4ppm per day or so. In June, your FC demand is highest. When FC comes back down to range, set it at 40% for a day and see what happens. If FC rises, Set it at 20%. Now it is trial and error to find the right output to maintain FC. Running 24/7 helps avoid letting FC get to low and fiddling the pump run time and output. All you need to manage is outupt.
PBs and services seem to not understand how April's UV is different than July's
SWGs are either on or off, if the flow switch is satisfied or not. Speed doesn't affect cell production beyond that.
So for me 1200 gets good SWCG flow. Skimming is hard to dial in with how windy it gets here in the afternoon. Yesterday when I got home the whole surface was covered in plant material, today that may not be the case. I don’t even have any plants in my backyard, just one tree nearby outside my area so its getting carried from some distance. No real prediction for it especially since I live technically outside the valley so how the mountains breaks up the weather is never accurate.Turnover of Pool Water - Further Reading
You run your pump for a reason. SWCG, heater, skimming, floor cleaning, etc. I get good skimming, swcg output and a happy heater at 1700. I run that for 24/7. For you, you might try low speed all day, the higher speed for in floor cleaning for you 2 or whatever number of hours works. SWCG output is the same, low or high speed.
Running at 30%, the IC-40 will add 4ppm per day or so. In June, your FC demand is highest. When FC comes back down to range, set it at 40% for a day and see what happens. If FC rises, Set it at 20%. Now it is trial and error to find the right output to maintain FC. Running 24/7 helps avoid letting FC get to low and fiddling the pump run time and output. All you need to manage is outupt.
FC need and cell output will change with the season. Less in winter, more in spring/fall, most in summer.
). So I am not too concerned with the water temp being warm for algae. I know UV kills chlorine so I have the SWCG off for now.PBs and services? Is there an acronym list somewhere??PBs and services seem to not understand how April UV is different than July's
SWGs are either on or off, if the flow switch is satisfied or not. Speed doesn't affect cell production beyond that.
re-read post #110 above...all you need!
Always round up to the next 10. Your CYA is 50. Target FC for 50 CYA. Link-->FC/CYA Levels
I read it but in post #108 you said to turn it off completely. So should I turn it off or lower it? If off, for how long?
Got it, thanks. I’m off work today so I will test mid day and see and then tonight and see then tomorrow evening for a full 24hr idea.
No. You don't know what your pH is...without knowing were it is you don't know if you need to do anything.
