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Don’t know for sure, but I will say yes.

Hi, I had a problem with bubbles in the water in June. It’s July and I still have bubbles in the water. Today I vacuumed and as soon as I adjusted the valves it started to get the water surface to cloud up. My numbers are, fc- 10 ph-7.6 ta- 100 ch-240 cya-70 the test was done last night. The...

Thanks, I’ll wait a few days.

Yes, they are vary fine and I can run my hand over them and they break up.

This is the second thread about surface bubbles, the first thread they asked for a picture, and then the filter broke on the pool and I had to get the chemicals right. So, fc,8 ph,7.6 ta,100 Ch,260 cya,80 salt 3900. The only thing that could be the problem is ta is a little high.

I am studying and going over the chlorine testing. I had brain problem last year and can’t remember how I tested chlorine. The other tests seem ok and I dont have trouble doing them, but the chlorine just skips me, I can’t remember it. The instructions don’t help. With the 0.2 and 25 ml of...

I have a Fiberglas pool and I am taking out the algea my guess is from last year. I have cleaned it up to where the bottom was visible and I vacuumed the bottom. Now it has bubbles in tiny areas all over the surface....... what is it?

Ph7.2 and Ta is 90. But I haven’t put any water in since last year. I took out about 5 in and kept 4. I closed the pool myself and took out Water below the skimmer.

I have tested the total water and the only thing that was off was the TA, it is 90. I have been having health concerns this summer, so I have been Testing mostly FC. The TA was 70 July 12. I am asking, can higher TA cause an issue with something? Is it not high enough to be an issue yet? It...

Was the pool winterized? As in covered? filter put away or drained? The window for such things is closing fast. If still working and filtering it might be possible, but the fact the water is so cold algea isn’t producing so won’t get much worse till spring. I don’t think I would mess with it...

Thanks, I debated leaving it for this year. SWG is at a low setting and Grape, your right-sun sitting lower not as strong and this cloudy weather most days, I probably don’t need CYA of 80. Pat, I didn’t think of the lower slam next year. Good plan, Thanks again.

I haven’t tested complete set of tests for a month. Today I tested and CYA was down from 80 to 50. Had more rain than usual and drained a few times, maybe 2” in total. Weather has been cloudy, rainy, minimal exposer to sun for last month. Fc has been holding very well. My question is this...

Are you sanitizing with liquid chlorine only? Is there a chance you let fc dip below minimum? Sounds like you have algae starting and and you are just keeping it in check. Do an oclt and see what happens. Maybe a slam is in order.

I bought this last year and paid under $12.00 for it. Watch prices.

https://smile.amazon.com/Splash-Pools-30700-Waterfall-Fountain/dp/B0026MTCOU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1533303862&sr=8-2&keywords=pool+fountains+for+inground+pools amazon has them ready to go.

This is funny, I am going through this same problem. Just testing fc and trying to get 10mm in the speedstir vile. When i am on, a couple pour offs and I have 10mm. When I am off, pour out, get more water, pour out, pour out, get more water.....it gets old quick. Thought hard about the sample...

You could try a good brushing,vacumning and raising the FC for a few days. That should start to clear pretty quick. If not a slam is in order.

My cya is 70 no waterline tile, just fiberglass last year my ph stayed at 7.6, ta = 90 and ch = 270. this year ph= 7.4 ta= 80 and ch 260. Same as last year numbers held all summer didn’t add anything except chlorine to supplement SWG.

Pool is a fiberglass shell. here are today’s numbers, fc = 8 ph = 7.4 ta = 80 ch = 260 csi = -0.47 ph, ta, and ch have held steady for weeks, csi is slightly on the negative side. Poolmath says I should be above -0.3. Should I be concerned? Should I play around with another number to increase CSI?

I received a sales booklet in the mail from a pool store, browsing through it I could not believe ALL the pages filled with dozens and dozens of chemicals that treated this and that and still more that were told to be extra strength and multi -purpose. Prices were outrageous.

I would think a good rinse with distilled water would be enough. Tap water might leave residue of chlorine, calcium, etc....... Washed with a soap or cleaner residue from that might effect the reagents a little. Maybe best to leave it alone and just refill.

eBay or amazon has the stir bars for sale. I picked some up as replacements because just looking at them tells me they will get lost sooner or later. Once you use a speed stir you will never go back.

I man it up and reach in.

My suggestion, since your not very sure of cya from testing, maybe it’s higher. How long does your pump run daily? Could you be testing when chlorine is at its highest, and is actually lower at times. I would increase FC ppm higher to at least 8, see if it helps. Brush twice a week, might help...

I can’t be positive, but believe they are ok. To be safe keep filter running and mix in pool with brush or leaf rake before second chem addition.

Cya is your stabilizer, 75 is considered 80, so no need to add. The two chems to keep apart are chlorine and muratic acid. They don’t play well together. When adding both wait at least 30 min Between.

I can’t answer why 60 to 80, but my TA sits at around 110- 120 and keeps my ph steady at 7.6 to 7.7 all summer. Everything I read it says to not adjust TA just for numbers. If for a specific reason then go ahead.

If your not going to use the pool before Friday, then I would figure out how long it would take to heat to the temp you want and just turn it on that many hours before you want to use it. No heat lose from heated water (during night )and the water will get heated from solar to its max from sun...

Do you use a cover for your pool, solar or safety? Covers will keep cc's trapped.

60 degrees is the magic number for the pool water.... shouldn't close before it consistently stays below. Open pool in spring before the water reaches 60.