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I'm wondering if this is a leaf trap to catch anything your suction-side cleaner picks up before it reached the pump basket(s). I'm also assuming the "outlet" for this contraption is on the bottom, going back into the ground.

There appear to be wires going to and/or coming from that unit (in the orange square) and maybe some sort of electronic box connected between it and the valve handle. Do you know that those are for? Does the unit in the orange square have any sort of trap/basket/strainer in it?

Once again, keeping this thread updated for posterity... I spoke with a gentleman at StaRite in Wisconsin (not Karl, but another very knowledgeable guy who commended me on keeping a 24-year-old pump running), and he confirmed that the copper heat shield / heat sink cone is designed to fit...

My guess would be either an internal short in the windings or the bearings are on the verge of locking up. Unfortunately, I suspect it's time for a new motor.

Have you noticed any change in the sound the motor makes over the last few weeks? Even the same noise it usually makes, only louder, can be a sign something is wrong. Often you will hear a moan or slight screech from a failing motor. In my experience (and based on what I've read around here)...

You may already know this, but save the boric acid for after your SLAM is complete. Pre-SLAM, you adjust your pH with muriatic acid, then during the SLAM the only thing you should be putting in your water is chlorine. Good luck, we'll be looking for a SLAM thread in the Balancing section! Take...

Just to keep this thread updated... My copper heat sink and shaft seal set arrived today. As per the recommendation of Karl at StaRite, I checked the fit of the heat sink to the seal plate. It did not press in by hand -- it's a good, tight interference fit. A 7/8" socket fit into the shoulder...

I just went through this myself with a 4-5 year old pump motor. The noise you're hearing is the bearings giving up. As mentioned above, this is due to water getting past the shaft seal(s) and water slinger (which is intended to keep water out even after a shaft seal failure). Replacing the seal...

I'm really not sure how to respond to this, as it goes against everything I've ever read and/or heard.

Wow, that's quite a kink! Imagine how much more efficiently your pump will be running now that you've got a wide-open return line...

Have you been able to collect any of this material in socks, etc. on the returns? The only thing I can think of that might be black is a degrading seal in the pump, multiport valve, or something similar. But that would be somewhat "greasy" and probably smear when brushed. Pics may be helpful here.

Agree with tim5055. You have to maintain shock level as best you can. When I SLAMed my pool, I was testing and adding morning, noon, and evening, as well as once or twice in the middle of the night. In my experience, nighttime is the best time to test and add, as your FC is able to fight algae...

I'm not nearly as experienced as others here, but I used that same Quikrete Pool Filter Sand (purchased from Lowe's in May 2017) in my 575-lb. sand filter, and I've had no problems. I did as BattleOfYakima suggests and poured some out on white paper to check its size. IIRC, all of my bags had...

I'm assuming you're checking voltage with a digital voltmeter. Sounds to me like you placed your ground lead from the voltmeter on one of the 'hot' legs, then placed the positive lead on the neutral (reading 110V), and then on the other 'hot' leg (220V). Pics would help.

My guess would be that your leak is above ground somewhere. What type of valve are you using to switch between skimmer and main drain, and how old is it? Most of these pool valves can be serviced (i.e., rebuilt) quite easily. It could be something as simple as a dried-out or cracked seal...

Well, since you're high-and-dry on your warranty, why not open 'er up? You might be able to get it running (or at least limping...) for cheap/free. Worst-case scenario, you're buying a new pump motor anyhow.

That is amazing. They also make a SkimPro for the Baker-Hydro skimmers (which I have 2 of...), but it has an 18" long handle. Their Hayward 1080 model seems to be the same as the Baker-Hydro basket, but with a shorter handle (12.5"ish). Time to go home and measure the distance from the bottom of...

Re: Sta-Rite Pump Seals -- On the Verge of Nervous Breakdown After a good conversation with someone at INYO Pools, I called Pentair to find out the date of manufacture of my pump. Pentair acquired Sta-Rite some time ago, but they advised my pump predates the acquisition. They sent me to the...

Sta-Rite Pump Seals -- On the Verge of Nervous Breakdown Okay, I think I've actually got this figured out. Maybe... I Googled 'StaRite P4RA5F-125L' just now. Google responded with, "Did you mean StaRite P2RA5F-125L?" Lots of results for the P2RA. I double-checked the data plate on my seal...

Re: Sta-Rite Pump Seals -- On the Verge of Nervous Breakdown The more I think I've got this figured out, the more I confuse myself. Here are the parts I have: Diffuser: C1-200PA Impeller: C105-137PEB And here is the seal kit I ordered on Amazon (it's an Aladdin kit, for whatever it's...

Sta-Rite Pump Seals -- On the Verge of Nervous Breakdown If you're referring to the copper part that is held onto the seal plate by two (2) screws, no. This pump is apparently newer than 1998. It's a really simple design -- seal plate, impeller (no separate nut required), diffuser, pump body...

Re: Sta-Rite Pump Seals -- On the Verge of Nervous Breakdown I've browsed their website, but what they appear to list is the same as all others. The complete seal kit they offer is the same thing I purchased from Amazon. I tried calling today, but they're only open Monday through Friday...

Apologies in advance for the long post... Folks, I'm about to have a Class III come-apart... I'm running a who-knows-how-old Sta-Rite pump. Model number is P4RA5F-125L (as best I can decipher...). More on this later. (EDIT: I deciphered wrong and assumed I knew what I was talking about...) My...

Ah. Thank you!

I'm about 300% sure this has been discussed elsewhere (with lots of helpful and insightful input from chem geek, I'm sure), but I'm on mobile right now and am having trouble searching... Our local government uses chloramine(s) -- made by mixing chlorine and ammonia -- to disinfect our water...

I'd almost forgotten I started this thread (I knew I'd wanted to, but couldn't remember if I had or not...). I've got the pool open, everything is running fine(ish). The lid on my sand filter appears to be a "universal replacement," which is now leaking. There are several small cracks that are...

Well, folks, it's been a productive fall/winter/spring around our house. We demolished our old pool house, poured a new concrete pad, and built a 12x20 pool house/storage building. Also moved all of the pool equipment inside, sitting in a "tray" in the concrete pad with a drain. Had to cut pipe...