Main Pump Motor Dead Again?

[Chappie]

I came home yesterday to find my main circuit breaker tripped, and there was a distinct odor of hot metal/ electrical burning. I replaced this pump shortly after I bought the house. Looking back at my records it looks like the date was November of 2015. The replacement had all the same stats as the original, which I have no dates on.

Is this typical? I feel like they should last a lot longer. I feel like the most likely situation is that I am doing something wrong, but I have no clue what it might be. It's a 1 HP motor - is this too small?

Currently the pump is switched off at the breaker. I tested it once, and it still works, but the burning smell occurs immediately and it sounds slightly different than it used to. Is there any saving this motor?

 

[tshepball]

OMG....I just posted about a very similar issue. I hope this virus doesnt keep spreading...lol

 

[COBrien]

Have you noticed any change in the sound the motor makes over the last few weeks? Even the same noise it usually makes, only louder, can be a sign something is wrong. Often you will hear a moan or slight screech from a failing motor.

In my experience (and based on what I've read around here), the main cause of motor failure is bearing failure. Bearing failure is usually caused by water getting into the "dry area" of the pump through a compromised shaft seal, making its way down the shaft to the bearings, and corroding them. It'll make noise as I described above, then one day you come out to a locked-up pump.

If you replaced your old pump with one with identical and/or very similar specs, "over-working" your pump shouldn't be an issue. I'd first call Pentair to see where you stand with any manufacturer's warranty.

If you're up the proverbial creek, and since you mentioned the pump still runs but smells hot, I'd start diagnosis by making sure the breaker is turned off, then taking the top capacitor cover off (the bump on top of the motor itself) and checking out the capacitor for any physical deformities, i.e., is it swollen, corroded, etc. Then you can pull the back cover (where the wiring goes into the motor) and check the wiring there. I can't remember now if the Challenger pumps have a start capacitor and a run capacitor, but if there's another capacitor under the back plate, check it out, too.

 

[Chappie]

I took the motor to our local shop, and they did what they were willing to do for free, which was hit it with the multimeter and check the capacitor. The capacitor was fine, but the motor was pulling 36 amps instead of the 16 it's supposed to. Any idea what that means?

 

[COBrien]

My guess would be either an internal short in the windings or the bearings are on the verge of locking up.

Unfortunately, I suspect it's time for a new motor.