Converting to Salt based pool?

B,

The AC power for the Power Center would come from the load side of the Pump/Filter relay, which is the one in the upper left of the cabinet.

You also will need to connect the com port (J20) on the main EasyTouch board to the com port inside the Power Center.

Doing these two things makes sure the power center only get AC power when the IntelliFlo pump is running, and the com port connection lets the EasyTouch talk to the cell..

I assume that currently your spillover from the spa into the pool runs all the time the pool pump is running and you are in the Pool mode.. Is that true?

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
B,

The AC power for the Power Center would come from the load side of the Pump/Filter relay, which is the one in the upper left of the cabinet.

You also will need to connect the com port (J20) on the main EasyTouch board to the com port inside the Power Center.

Doing these two things makes sure the power center only get AC power when the IntelliFlo pump is running, and the com port connection lets the EasyTouch talk to the cell..

I assume that currently your spillover from the spa into the pool runs all the time the pool pump is running and you are in the Pool mode.. Is that true?

Thanks,

Jim R.
Thank you.
Yes, Spill over runs all the time from Spa to Pool and I am in the Pool Mode. Do you suggest to change or reconfigure anything here?
 
Do you suggest to change or reconfigure anything here?

B,

It is an option to think about, but not something that is a must do to convert to a SWCG system..

Having a constant spillover can cause your pH to increase due to aeration. If this becomes an issue, you can shut your continuous spillover off and use a the Spillway mode that is controlled by the EasyTouch.

I suggest that you convert over to a saltwater pool and then decide if you want to shut off the spillover. Easy to do, but let's just do one thing at a time.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
B,

It is an option to think about, but not something that is a must do to convert to a SWCG system..

Having a constant spillover can cause your pH to increase due to aeration. If this becomes an issue, you can shut your continuous spillover off and use a the Spillway mode that is controlled by the EasyTouch.

I suggest that you convert over to a saltwater pool and then decide if you want to shut off the spillover. Easy to do, but let's just do one thing at a time.

Thanks,

Jim R.
I found this one, is this good one and do you suggest? I guess I also need power center to connect to Easy touch
 
B,

The AC power for the Power Center would come from the load side of the Pump/Filter relay, which is the one in the upper left of the cabinet.

You also will need to connect the com port (J20) on the main EasyTouch board to the com port inside the Power Center.

Doing these two things makes sure the power center only get AC power when the IntelliFlo pump is running, and the com port connection lets the EasyTouch talk to the cell..

I assume that currently your spillover from the spa into the pool runs all the time the pool pump is running and you are in the Pool mode.. Is that true?

Thanks,

Jim R.
Can you please help me understand where is the J20 port on Easytouch?
 
B,

It is an option to think about, but not something that is a must do to convert to a SWCG system..

Having a constant spillover can cause your pH to increase due to aeration. If this becomes an issue, you can shut your continuous spillover off and use a the Spillway mode that is controlled by the EasyTouch.

I suggest that you convert over to a saltwater pool and then decide if you want to shut off the spillover. Easy to do, but let's just do one thing at a time.

Thanks,

Jim R.
What parts I need to buy for spillover easytouch automation? Just checking budget.
 
B,

Right below your tab feeder is a check valve. That check valve allows some water to go to the spa when the system is in the pool mode.

To turn off the spillover, you just need to take the "check valve guts" out of the black housing and install the guts from a 2-way valve with a handle. This converts the check valve into a 2-way valve that you can just shut off. I am not sure what the brand of your check valve is, but I would use new parts came from the same brand of valve.

Cost wise, that is it.. To add the "Spillway" function to the EasyTouch is all programming and about 10 minutes of your time.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
B,

Right below your tab feeder is a check valve. That check valve allows some water to go to the spa when the system is in the pool mode.

To turn off the spillover, you just need to take the "check valve guts" out of the black housing and install the guts from a 2-way valve with a handle. This converts the check valve into a 2-way valve that you can just shut off. I am not sure what the brand of your check valve is, but I would use new parts came from the same brand of valve.

Cost wise, that is it.. To add the "Spillway" function to the EasyTouch is all programming and about 10 minutes of your time.

Thanks,

Jim R.
There are two check values I have one is square one (Magic plastics) directly connected to the heater and another one Jandy round one connected below the chlorinator as shown in the picture. Can you please send me the part I need to buy to make this work? Thank you Sir.
 

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The Jandy round one.
Call InyoPools to confirm what you need for the size valve you have.
 
Thank you. Now we are going to replace check value with 2 way valve right? If so how the automation works as 2 way Jandy valve is a manual one and is not the connected to the Easytouch? Are we going to use the actuator before that?
 
Are we going to use the actuator before that?
Correct. You will schedule a Spillway function that will open the return actuated valve and send all the water to the spa. Normally schedule that for 30 minutes or so twice a day. Best to test the FC in the spa for a day or two to be sure that timing sufficient to keep it chlorinated.
 
B,

You already have two automated valves.. The one in front of the pump is the Intake valve and the one after the heater is the Return valve..

When in the Pool Mode, the Intake valve sucks water from the Pool and the Return valve sends the water back to the Pool.
When in the Spa Mode, the Intake valve sucks water from the Spa and the Return valve sends the water back to the Spa.
When in the Spillway Mode, the Intake valve sucks water from the Pool and the Return valve sends the water back to the Spa.

To make all three modes work, you only need the two automated valves that you already have.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
B,

The salt level in a saltwater pool is about what is in your tears.. It is not like the ocean.. The ocean has about 35,000 ppm of salt and a pool has about 3,500 ppm of salt. Even a standard chlorine pool has some salt in it after a year of operation.

I have three saltwater pools.. combined they have been saltwater pools for over 20 years.. I have seen no damage to anything at all, this includes the equipment, the tile, the stone or concrete work.. Just nothing at all..

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
B,

The salt level in a saltwater pool is about what is in your tears.. It is not like the ocean.. The ocean has about 35,000 ppm of salt and a pool has about 3,500 ppm of salt. Even a standard chlorine pool has some salt in it after a year of operation.

I have three saltwater pools.. combined they have been saltwater pools for over 20 years.. I have seen no damage to anything at all, this includes the equipment, the tile, the stone or concrete work.. Just nothing at all..

Thanks,

Jim R.
Thank you Jim.
Can you please help how do I setup low speed and high speed run at different days or times using easy touch control system?
 
I'll second Marty's comment except the cost break even point. It really depends. It depends on how much you pay for chlorine, what cell you get and how much chlorine its rated to produce and the conditions of your pool. Lets just yank a number out of the air. Say the SWG and controller costs $1500, how many years does it take to go through that much chlorine? 5, 10? for many people that is about 5 years worth of liquid chlorine ($300/year/12 mo/5 bux a gallon=5 gal a month... zat too high? too low for you?). So if the break even point is at 5 years and if the cell lasts longer, then that it free chlorine! right? My first cell last for 9+ years, that means I got 4+ years of free chlorine. When the cell is depleted and you have to get a new one you don't have to buy a new controller.. just the cell. That is cheaper.. lets say $500. That means you will break even in the second year and every year after that is more free chlorine. My second cell is at 7+ years.. I have been in free chlorine land for 5 years already with the second cell... And I am not even factoring in the time savings and convenience. Do I think it's worth.. HECK YA!
Regarding the cost comparison, do you have to run the pump more? If so, I would assume that shortens the lifespan of the pump, and raises the electric bill somewhat. How often do you have to replace the controller? Also, an economist would tell you you have to consider what return you would get on that initial $1500...
 

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