Just had electrician hook up heat pump and I cannot seem to have the system turn on . Pool is warm just from the sun but all that is happening is it’s staying in off

Hi! New indoor pool owner in Canada. I'm so lost vut so happy to have found this platform!

Hey y’all. Just wanted to play by the rules and introduce myself. I’m a first time home owner and pool owner. Live in New Orleans so my pool can be used almost year round. Our backyard has A LOT of shade from the numerous palms and a single live oak tree. Did not realize how much of a constant project I acquired when we bought a house with a pool. So here I am, trying to be better about learning how to take care of our pool.

Hello I am totally new at this with this summer being my first summer starting the pool up from winter. I got all my chemicals balanced and water is crystal clear but I am having trouble with the chlorine and cya levels.

I just ordered the Taylor 2006 test kit so I will see what is actually going on when that arrives but on the test strips it continuously shows FC as white or zero no matter how much liquid chlorine or shock I put in. Also my CYA levels drop very rapidly. I just got it up to 40 ppm (again with a test strip) on Wednesday and it is already back to zero.

I read that the heat can affect the CYA levels dropping and it has been 90s and very sunny here (SC) but I didn’t think it would be that rapidly. I’m starting to wonder if the test strips are just not reading the FC levels correctly and they are actually super high.

I am already sick of dumping money into the chlorine and stabilizer since it just disappears so fast. When I get the new test kit do I SLAM it to hold the FC levels or is that only for when your water is nasty?

HELP
Thank you!

Hi. Has been working fine. Late yesterday wouldnt start. No lights, nothing. The outlet works fine- I plugged in other things and they work. Is there a fuse I can replace? We have had recent thunderstorms . TIA!!!!

Following my successful plumbing installation of the cell for my Circupool RJ45 Plus, and the receipt of my current sensing relay, I think I am ready for next steps. Tomorrow, I intend to install the electrical for the unit, and start adding salt.
I currently have all the wiring going through the mld Intermatic T104R Timer box (see picture below). That timers guts were gone before I bought the house, so now it’s simply a convenient place to tie in the electrical.

Can/should I simply drill a hole on the side and put in a strain relief and silicone sealant for the CIrcupool cord? Or should I put some flex conduit between the timer box and the Circupool unit and run it through?
My most recent test levels were:

PH: 7.8
Alkalinity: 78
CYA: 34
FC:3.4
TAC:3.4
CH:236




Any red flags here? I typically keep my CYA levels low, but I have a bag of CYA to bring this up, as do I have Alkalinity up, if necessary.

Thoughts?

Hello All -

Great forum with awesome tips that have helped me throughout my journey. My 20x40 in-ground 28k gallon pool was just filled last Monday and followed the PB's instructions regarding automatic scheduling. Here's what he set up for us:

1.) Pool - 2700 RPMs - 8am-8pm
2.) Pool Low - 1500 RPMs - 11pm-5am

When I go out and scrub the plaster in the AM, I find myself using a net to catch debris, deadbugs, etc.

Question:
1.) Should I be running the pump 24/7? I've looked this up and get various answers.
2.) Is it better to run this pump 24/7 instead of following the PB's schedule, and what schedule would be the most efficient?

If having a clean pool when I wake up in the AM means running the pump 24/7 I'm ok with that but don't want to compromise the life span of my pump.

Thanks for the help.

I have a 14', 4-foot deep Bestway above-ground pool and have noticed rust developing on some of the metal poles on the top frame. One thing I've pondered was replacing the entire frame, including the vertical poles, with PVC pipes. Has anybody had any luck with doing so? What size did you use? What fittings/couplings? Did you fill the pipes with anything to weigh them down or ensure they could support the weight of the pool?

I replaced my 4 yr old Maytonocs Dolphin Active 30 last year because replacing the cord, brushes and other parts over time was going to add up even DIY. Since the extra Active 30 features turned out to be worthless and pretty much nonfunctional I went with the Active 20. But the Active 20 just seems so much more stupid (I know there are many posts on this). I should have returned it.…. But I got to thinking what would be involved in transferring any more random “brain functions” from what is a still functioning Active 30? I found that the controller from the Active 30 won’t work with the Active 20. Is it a motor transfer or what that could impart more effective random operation and better wall scrubbing.

Hello Everyone, this is my owner builder pool. Dig is started.
36x 20x 33 L shaped pool
Deep end 8 ft deep, shallow 3.5 deep. Lots of seating. Running Pentair equipment, LED bubblers on my 7x 20 swim step. 18 in raised spa, 24 inch raised deep end bond beam for a deck to jump off. Planning on a slide also. Might do 3 18 inch waterfalls on the 24inch bond beam.

New pool owner. My pool contractor went out of business right at the end of my build so I’m trying to finish things out myself but I’m completely new to all this. Help is appreciated.
He had installed a Pentair easytouch system (intelliflow pump, filter, heater, intellichlor).
I was curious what is the preferred way to make the system “smart”. What I understand is that I can either upgrade to an easy logic or get a module I can install and use with the pentair app.
The intelliflow pump does actually have wifi but I need to control everything else through the panel.

Testing 1 2 3

We have a 10k gal salt water pool. I used the Taylor K-2006 test kit, the FAS-DPD one, to measure FC 10 ppm and CYA < 30 ppm (too low for the test to report anything). I took a sample to the pool store and they reported CYA of 11ppm. After reading a lot of the articles and forums, I'm sure I'll get recommendations to up the CYA right away, but before I change anything I wanted to bring down the FC level. I turned off our SWG yesterday morning and tested the chlorine at various times yesterday and today and the FC level hasn't budged a bit. It was 10 ppm 24 hours ago and is 10 ppm now.

I though that with a low level of CYA I'd see our FC level drop pretty fast. Our pool gets full sun and the UV index is 10 right now. Any thoughts on why the FC level isn't decreasing? Our SWG is a Pentair Intellichlor IC40. It is controlled via an Easy Touch. I turned it down to 0% and checked the generator to see that the output dropped to 0% according to the indicator lights. We don't have any other source of chlorine for out pool. Am I just being impatient? Everything I've read made it sound like the FC would drop pretty fast in direct sunlight.

Today, I noticed small black spots in some areas of my plaster (please see the photos). I tested the water and here are the results:
FC = 1
pH = 8.2
TA = 80
CYA = 50
Based on the results, I know that the chlorine level is low and I need to add chlorine. I am wondering if the black spots are algea? Would you please give me some advice how to treat it? Do you recommend me to SLAM the pool? Is the SLAM target FC is 20 (I would like to know if the SLAM level is 20 in order to use my Pool Math app and calculate the required Bleach Chlorine to add to the pool).
Thank you.

I have started the plumbing for by-passing the heat pump but ran into a concern. According to all instructions the check-valve should be at the lowest point of the plumbing. This is not quite possible for me because after the heater the returns then run underground. Will the check-valve work anyway? My plan was to put a 90-degree check-valve to the heater output attached to a 2" Y. I would then run a 45 elbow to the 3-way diverter and attach that to the Y.

My other option would be to attach another 3-way diverter to the heater output and other diverter.

I think the reason I like the check-valve better is because it may be simpler to use and only having to turn one valve.
Any thoughts?
Thanks
Daren

my pump broke so I had to order a new one so pool went without a pump and chemicals for a week while getting a round of rain. Finally got pump hooked up and tested my pool with HTH 6 way test strips due to cloudiness and my TA and PH are excessively high. HTH says to add 20 pounds of PH down to bring TA down but how should I go about this to make it all effective without bottoming out the two or without the TA bringing the PH back up. Current readings on test strip below

FAC- 0/0
TA- 240
PH- 8.4
TH- 400
CA-0
I understand my chlorine and CA are zero I expected that after a week with no pump or chemicals so that’ll be adjusted once ph and ta are in range.

Looks like the actual chart has been replaced by a dialog prompting the user for LC/SWG/SLAM and CYA level. Any chance we can get a link to the previous "chart"? I liked the rows and columns format.

Hi everyone, this is my second year owning an AG pool (see details in the signature). Last year the pool was basically easy peasy maintenance with clear water and following all the pool store recs and used the frogger infuser for chlorine. Fast forward to this year and it's been a constant struggle with cloudy water and what I strongly suspect is a constant battle against algae. We run the filter 24/7, FWIW.

I stumbled upon this community via google search. After reading some of the old threads I think I have a much better understanding that it's likely an algae bloom I'm constantly fighting off. In summary, I switched to NST tablets upon opening because CYA was too high and then CYA got too low so I am now back on Frogger system. Two weeks ago chlorine demand seemed really high. I'd shock and it would go back to zero (per test strips) in almost 48-72 hours. So I ended up shocking 3x in 1 week with cal hypo 1 lb. The phosphorus readings have also been super high so I added 56 oz of phosphorus remover per the pool store recs. Then I was advised to flocc...yes, yes this was probably a big mistake... but isn't hindsight always 20/20?

Despite "balanced" water, my pool is still SO CLOUDY! I can't even see a few inches deep (it's a 4 ft pool). Should I just start adding liquid chlorine and wait for my own test kit to arrive? I'm also holding off on the additional phos remover for now. I'm so frustrated! Thank you in advance for any insight and assistance.

PS I hate to think the really nice pool store folks are being anything but helpful to the best of their abilities. It's a local business and they seem to have very knowledgeable, experienced staff.

So we have a cracked union with our salt cell. Where do I get a new one to replace it? Does it have to be specific to the Jandy PLC 1400? Just found it tonight, so shut down the pump. (Was running pump at night to cool pool off through solar, so will have to figure this out in the morning, but wanted to jump on here for suggestions where to buy the union). Thanks for your help!

So, whats the difference between a "Shasta" actuator and a non Shasta actuator?

2nd summer with SWG FG pool. First summer with TFP & Taylor Test kits.
pool guys opened pool last year, said they added too much salt--"no biggie, won't need to add more the rest of the summer!"
Last year, & this summer 5/4/23 - 6/28/23 I added WEEKLY Bioguard Scale Inhibitor, Bioguard Algeacide 28-40, & Pool Perfect + Phos free per pool guys orders. Used test strips weekly, added dry stabilizer when needed. Seemed too easy. I had no clue how to run my SWG--never touched it.

I did my first SLAM 07/03/23 - 07/06/23 for FC 0.0 and cloudy water. I'm not entirely sure I should have, but I still didn't know how to use my SWG. Turns out, it wasn't working--07/06 I unplugged it, & plugged back in & it started working again.
Pool cleared after adding 1912 oz liquid chlorine over 4 days. Now, FC has jumped up....I assume SWG is set too high? Set at 75% 7/6 - 7/12, them 50% 7/12-7/14. Now at 20%. Should it be on at all?

Test	07/12/23	07/14/23
FC	13.5	14.5
CC	0.2	0.0
pH	7.4	7.6
TA	140	150
CYA	90	90
CH	160	180
SALT	6200	6000
SWG on 24/7	50%	turned down to 20% after testing

CH isn't red-to-blue, its pink-to-purple, even when i add reagent first, as directed in manual. I think i have copper--daughters hair is green.

Just had our pool installed with a Hayward Salt Water system. Looking forward to being a part of this community.

Just learned of this site recently. We installed a 20x40 vinyl lined inground pool this spring. Really have enjoyed it so far. The pool installer has been checking the chemicals weekly and I am now going to start doing it myself. I have been reading here and am sure will have plenty of questions

I have an older in ground pool that I would consider in fair to poor condition. It is a lined pool with aluminum extruded coping with a concrete deck(?). It has an older sand filter with older super pump, both Hayward. Run on 1 1/2” lines. The fill around the pool has settled substantially, 3”+ ! I plan to make improvements to filter (DE filter and VS pump) and if viable, the settling of the deck. Hope to find some ideas here and share my progress as I make it. Thanks!

Hello! It's my first summer with a pool. Recently took over cleaning from the company after battling an algae problem. Came across the site too late after applying algaecide and using Clorox 6-in-1 shock a few times. I still don't have one of the recommended test kits, just a basic pool master kit that I bought before finding TFP. I followed the SLAM process as best as I could and it worked!

I really would like the automation of a Water Sense Guru but after some reading here, even under the best circumstances with getting a good unit and not needing Waterguru customer service, I'd have to supplement anyway with a traditional test kit.

Hi there. Yesterday was the first day we swam in our pool. I have no idea what I'm doing with any of it, but I'm excited to learn. Our pool is pebble tech and it came with a Fusion Nature 2 system. I read mixed reviews on that, but it is what it is for now.

Again, howdy!

Building a new (first!) pool and found the forums while doing research. Looks like a helpful community. Started a thread in Under Construction.
Looking forward to learning from all you experts haha

New here so be nice . I’ve had stained walls that go all the way around our pool since April. At the time we had a “pool guy” and as he was unsuccessful at solving this problem along with some other small issues, we decided to do diy pool care and let him go. We have had crystal clear water all this time so no “green pool”. It does not wipe away or brush away but when I’ve used a chlorine puck and scrubbed back and forth in one spot, the stain lightened up making me believe it’s organic. Also, around the skimmers have stained and if I use my fingernail to scratch at the stain it comes off but won’t come off with a pool brush. It seems I’m noticing more orange/rust random looking stains on the bottom of the pool too. I have not used the vitamin c test yet on those. I’ve began the slam process two and a half days ago, brushing before I started slam and have brushed and vacuumed it the last two nights. It doesn’t look like the stain is budging at all off the wall but again when I scrub scrub scrub with my finger in one spot it seems to lighten up. I know the slam curriculum and the passing of the three points. With that being said, The kids are dying to get in the pool as I haven’t let them since I started this process and am wondering how long should I continue this slam until I just give up and live with the stained walls and let the kids swim. I’ve already dumped a total of 14 gallons atleast of liquid chlorine into the pool to keep it up at the recommended slam level according the TFP calculator which is 24. I am attaching pictures as well.
P.S. I turned off the filter long enough to take clearer pictures.
36,000 gallon pool
Before starting slam
FC 7
CC 0
CH 250
TA 60
CYA 60

A few days ago I decided to up my calcium count. Everything I saw said not to add chlorine for 24 hours after raising calcium. When time came to add chlorine again I was at zero! I brought my chlorine back to 5ppm. That was Wednesday night. Thursday evening when I tested to add more chlorine my ppm was 1. Prior to adding calcium and my FC dropping to 0, my FC levels would be 5ppm and by time to add more would drop to 3. Last night I did the OCLT and only lost 1ppm. So I believe I'm straight here, just a little concerned. Should I just keep an eye on it and roll on? My water is gorgeous with no signs of issues anywhere. I am about to bump CYA from 35 to 50 though.

FC currently 5
TA 90
CH now 150
PH 7.5
CYA 35
Borates 50