I have a set of Permacast Big Boy 6 inch brass anchors and a the metal plate.
What is the best way/ method to install these in a paver deck. ???
I plan on pouring a 2x2 ft concrete pad then installing the anchors... but not sure on the best way to attatch the plate
and cups to the concrete... set in concrete with bolts or drill and epoxy into concrete or what ?

Hey all,
2nd time I've done the TFE-100 kit test. Hoping someone can help.
Pool has been a bit cloudy past week. My dad says its a 35k gallon pool.
I added a bag Clorox CYA stabilizer via the 'sock-placed-in-filter' method last week to raise my CYA.
We have had a bit of yellow-green algae in the pool a week and a half ago as well. I added a whole bottle of Liquid Chlorine (which got the FC level the next day around: 4.5, CC: 1, TC: 5.5).
You can see FC settled down to 2 below.

Here are my current readings:
PH: 7.2
FC: 2
CC: 0.5
TC: 2.5
Calcium: 350
Alkalinity: 110
CYA: ? 20 ? (i got to the top and it was getting pretty blurry but i could still make out the black dot at the bottom).

Not sure if it helps... Here is video of the pool and how cloudy it is and just showing our Triton II sand pump working I assume correctly (I wasn't sure the optimal PSI, but we do backwash it weekly):
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Here is some general questions about CYA test to make sure I did it correctly:
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Thanks!
Ari

Not having much with getting anyone out to look at our issue so I’m holding out hope someone here has had a similar experience. The top stone was dislodged two weeks and pulled away from the mortar joint. In between it happening and getting put back we had some really heavy rain. We aren’t losing any water from the pool or the spa BUT there now seems to be a constant drip from directly below the piece that disconnected. It’s been a week now that it’s been dripping. It doesn’t increase or decrease when the pump is on or off. If I suction with a shop vac I can pull a bit of water, weirdly more over the last few days than when it started. Is it absolutely crazy to think there has been water accumulating through the very small mortar cracks and crevices over the last two years and it’s finally found it’s way out through this pin hole?? Is filling and sealing the hole a bad idea? Will not releasing the water in there cause bigger issues over time? Any words of wisdom would be greatly appreciated!

Hello from northeast FL! I have 3 different PBs giving me proposals. I have so many questions because research is often contradictory! I'm considering a smaller free for gunnite without bells and whistles. Previous pool at other house was AG 27' round with ionizer. Never had any problems. In ground has so many choices.
1. I'm seeing this forum leans towar salt and SWG. Right?
2. Do PBs always take months to submit a proposal? I swear a simple change takes them weeks to modify and/or respond to questions.
3. Is rectangle easier to clean via robot?
4. DE filter no matter what?
5. Why are all PBs forcing me toward travertine for deck? I want porcelain pavers and have it picked out. I don't get it.

Thanks in advance!

iChlor 30 never has any white buildup on it. The blades are slightly tarnished looking, but that's it.
Is there any point in acid cleaning?
Most I read indicates acid cleaning takes some life out of the cell.
To be honest I haven't cleaned it in two seasons (~ 1600hrs) and the cell seems to be doing the job so looking for input.
My feeling is don't mess with.

So I added enough salt to get me to 3740. The red light is saying salt is low. Is that the normal reaction from an IC 40? The salt will go down to 3600 i a week or two but will it make chlorine during the over-salted period?
Bart

Have a T9 -25,000 gal in ground
Can it be changed to a T15 40,000
Gal
Can the Blue Essence board be reprogrammed

My house was built in 1985. There is a back flow valve but if I close it off, it doesn't appear to shut off the autofill lines. Should I care?
I am trying to sort out the plumbing. We have a very minor leak and the autofill Iines were pressure tested and didn't find anything. Now I just want to be sure the back flow would cover the pool. Why would it be there for any other reason?

Images - three images of water line into house.
Fourth image are the the autofill lines. There are two turn off valves. One on the right turns off both pool and spa autofill. One on the left is a mystery and I don't know what that line goes too. If you look at the first picture right before the hose line there is a line that goes underground. I am not sure where this goes either.

Any thoughts or insights to this puzzle are welcomed. Thanks in advance.

Have these strange circular marking on bottom of pool. It didn’t respond to chlorine pucks or vitamin C. I’m guessing the plaster is old maybe? We just bought the house, so it could be age.

You can also see clear footprints in some spots, wondering if the old owner had a bad plaster job? It used to be a SWG pool, but they took it off as it was rented. After a shock is when I noticed the stains.

Besides these stains everywhere, the pool is great chemically as far as I can tell from the k2006C.

I need some opinions here... I currently have a Hayward T15. It is 6 years old and no longer reading correct salt values.
The new T15 is $899 on Amazon and $1300 at my local pool store.
I would like to hear from people that have purchased other alternatives.
What did you purchase?
Where did you purchase it?
How long has it lasted?
Would you purchase it again?

Thanks.

Hey all,

I could definitely use some expert advice on this one! We recently had a power spike that flipped our circuit breaker for the pool equipment. When I got everything back up and running, all of our equipment came back online properly except for the Jxi Heater. It seemed to be DOA.

Following instructions on other threads, I opened the unit and noted that the Power Circuit Board and the Transformer were both properly blown and fried out. I swapped them both out yesterday and then got to the following current state:

1. Fuse is 2A and didnt blow on the 24vac side of the new transformer, but I dont detect any power (maybe I'm checking wrong with my multimeter?)

2. Circuit board for the "brains" appears to be totally fine on the 24vac side - but I dont detect any power on any of the pins.

3. The transformer itself is brand new, and I have no idea how to check that its receiving or converting and sending power properly.

4. The PCB board I swapped out and I can see that its receiving 240V into it, and sending out of the 3pin connector for the transformer.

I can definitely use some help at this point - I'm not sure where to go next, or what to check next. Im considering calling Jandy as my next step, but you all seem so smart so I figured I would start here first.

Pool is 4 months old, along with the IC40. Everything working great until today, where the IC40 will not show any output lights. Flow and Cell are both GREEN solid. On reset, I get the expected red/green flash and then those 2 lights go green with no lights on the output scale. When trying to determine life left by holding down MORE, bunch of lights flash but still nothing on the output scale. Intellicenter is set to 75% chlorine output and is giving me no errors.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Lilly-Miller-20-lb-4000-sq-ft-16-16-16-All-purpose-Fertilizer/4667371 a bag of this fell into my pool; what should I do about it - if anything? I’ve got the K-2006 set. I haven’t found the MSDS for this if one exists, so aside from trying to break out my chemistry skills to balance all possible equations (lol), I’m kind of lost.

Hello, I have a Hayward filter model number C3025. It's an older filter. It is running at 30 and it is usually at 20. We cleaned the filters. I bought a new air relief hose and am going to put that in. The one inside is really short maybe 12 inches. I wonder if it broke off. Even after I manually bleed the valve it is staying at 30 . Any ideas? We have had a lot of wind storms and sand in the pool but the filters are clean. I'm worried it might explode. Is there a filter at the bottom of the hose? There is suction in the skimmer and the vacumn is working properly. Is 30 too high for an old filter ?

Hi all, I recently rebuilt my whisperflo pump when the water evaporated below the skimmer and the pump ran dry. Must have gotten very hot in there. The pot housing, cap, lid, shaft seal, seal plate and unions have been replaced. All plumbing connections appear be solid. No water leaks.
However it seems like the 3 way valve(see pics) might have a suction leak. When the valve is turned to flow from the pool, the pot stays primed(see pics). When the valve is turned to flow from the spa, the pot fills with air. (See pics)
I have replaced the internal valve water diverter and associated orings.(not sure what that piece is formally called). Could the valve lid be letting air in from where the valve stem protrudes through the valve lid?

Any recommendations on how to pinpoint a suction leak?

Thanks all

See attached crude PDF drawing,. Is there an issue in installing a 90 elbow only about 16 to 18" away from the skimmer to raise the pipe about 8". Need to do this to avoid an obstacle.

Hello,

Looking at replacing my old incandescent pool light with a J & J Color Splash LXG-W. It has the multi colors and also a separate dedicated white. I have noticed that there are a couple of different part numbers out there for what I'm looking to buy: LPL-P2-RGBW-120 and LPL-P3-RGBW-120. They appear to be the exact same thing. Anybody know what the difference is between these two part numbers?

Are there any other options out there if I'm just looking to replace the bulb only and not the whole fixture, and have something compatible with my iAqualink system? The J & J is the only thing I saw that appeared to fit my need.


Thank you,
Greg

Pool party tomorrow (Sunday) at 2pm for ages 13 to 18.
Water is clear. No cloudiness, but not sparkling.

We caught the outer bands of the hurricane and had massive amounts of rain Wed night.

Thursday AM test results:
FC: 4
pH: 8.0+ (best guess 8.4)
TA: 60
CH: 430
CYA: 40
Added .5 gal MA

Friday AM:
FC: .5
pH: 8.0
TA: 60
24 hr FC drop was high, so realize I need to slam. Brushed sides and afternoon errand to pick up LC and MA.

Friday PM:
Added:
6 gal LC
4 Cups MA

Saturday AM:
FC: 10
pH: 10 (nearly fainted. Then remembered test not accurate under SLAM).


So I failed OCLT test.
Water is clear, no cloudiness, but not sparkling.

If I continue the SLAM today, I risk super high FC for party.
And have no idea where pH is at.

If I don’t continue SLAM, risk green tint of water but can ensure pH level is good.

What would you do?

I've had this brown stuff in the pool, in patches, particularly along the seams, and on the sunny side of the pool - nothing on the shady side, nothing on the walls. This has pretty much been going over the past week.

I performed an OCLT test last night and the chlorine went from 8.0 to 5.5 this morning. All other test results have been normal for my pool over the past several days. Ph has stayed at 7.6 throughout the several days. Combined Chlorine was 0.5 last night and 0.5 this morning. It is almost always 0.0 or 0.5. CYA is at about 50.

Other facts:
1. I have a pool cover which is always covering the pool when we're not swimming.
2. Temps have been in the 90's here (Mpls area) for the last few days.
3. The brown stuff feels gritty, not as gritty as sand, but gritty.
4. I can move the brown stuff just waving my hand above it in the water and it will move away in a cloud of brown.
5. When I ran the Dolphin pool cleaner, the filter caught the brown stuff, and again, when I rubbed between my fingers, it had a gritty feel to it.

Thank you.

Our family is numb.

I'd like to use this as a "working thread" for myself and any other pour soul who has the pleasure of facing the feat we will this (long) weekend.

Can a pool 40x20 concrete "vintage" (ha!) pool be repaired in a long weekend? Or I guess more appropriately worded would be how well can such a pool be refinished in a long weekend?

Background - purchased a house in Fayetteville, NC (Ft. Bragg) from a "flipper." Soon thereafter, courtesy of the U.S. Army, we were forced to move to the DC area. House became a rental (that we lose money on every month and can't sell due to housing market).

Had maintenance performed by professional year around until winter of 2014 when our pool man retired (after 30 years) due to health issues, and we let it go. We traveled to NC a few weekends ago and dumped a bunch of chlorine and algaecide into pool. Cleared up reasonably well, but may be green again by now.

Pool Specifics;
From what neighbors have told us, the pool is at least 30 years old. There is no main drain, no hydrostatic hole. No tile around edge. Nothing but concrete.

Had pool pressured tested last year looking for leak that's not horrible, but drives up water bill about $10/m. Suspect leak is behind light (which was removed 2 years ago to fix, but never got done). Pool is plastered and was painted - who knows how long ago - and per the test done this week, it's plaster and an epoxy paint.

Before buying house the pool cracks (minor) on floor were "repaired" by a flighty-handy man. Within a week of closing paint started chipping from plaster/mortar of these repairs. Other than that, pool was pretty and certainly swimmable so we lived with it.

Fast forward 4 years and here we are. Plaster has started pulling away from walls at top edge and paint is chipping throughout, as well as chalking.

Pictures to come.

We realize the pool needs to be completely resurfaced, but quotes have come in for $10k and that's just not in the budget. We could likely venture a DIY replaster, but due to time constraints (living in DC) this isn't a viable option either.

So we will venture down this weekend (Friday morning) to do whatever we are able to make the pool reasonable for our tenants within a few days, a budget of around $1,000, and the weather - starts raining this afternoon and stops early Friday afternoon, but doesn't appear to be a lot of rain. We are not looking for a 20 or 30 year fix. We hope to get perhaps 3 years from this weekend's fix to keep our tenant happy and our chemical expenses down.

Before I start into questions about products to use, step 1 is to drain the (40k(?) gallon) monstrosity. I have someone local that can pick up a (rented?) sup pump for us and start the draining process. My immediate question is what specifications does the sump pump need to be? Besides being submersible, anything in particular we need to make sure the pump has/can do?

We can buy this one from Harbor Freight for $40 (with coupon). Any reason this one won't suffice? http://m.harborfreight.com/16-hp-submersible-utility-pump-1350-gph-68422.html

Or we could rent this one from HD for $42/day (or likely somewhere else for less). http://www6.homedepot.com/tool-truck-rental/mobile/Submersible_Pump_2/0009112/index.html


We would be so incredibly grateful if some of you will help us along in our journey this weekend for the "temporary fix" for our pool which we have affectionaly named "Pita" (for PAIN In The *****). As I intend to provide pictures along the way, there's likely someone else in the future who will also benefit greatly.

Cheers!

Greetings. I am shopping for a robotic cleaner. It would seem logical to me that these things would pickup fine-sized dirt like dead algae or wind-blown soils. However, just about every higher end model has a review stating that it has trouble with fine dirt and/or requires an add-on filter.

I was looking closely at the Dolphin e50, but read some critical reviews related to fine dirt capabilities.

Are there ANY models that are better-known for their pickup of fine dirt?

Thank you..

Hi, I have a 22,000 gallon pool in Southern California. My current 175K BTU gas heater needs to be replaced. IF the gas line is too small (I don't know its size yet) and I install the large 400k BTU heater instead of the 250K BTU heater, will the heater adjust something if it does not get enough gas flow to it? If it doesn't adjust something will something bad happen like run lean and too hot? Thanks in advance.

Hello everyone,
I am having trouble with my dolphin DX5S. It won’t run for a full cycle, it’s now continuously getting stuck on my floor drain. The other day it kept doing circles before it stopped. Any recommendations on a new robotic cleaner? The pool is a free from 20K gal gunite saltwater pool. Any suggestions would be appreciate.
Damian

Hello,

I have a 7 year old pool with a raised spa. A leak has developed where the spillway stone is connected to the rest of the spa. When the spa is turned off, the outside of the spa facing the pool is wet and I have determined water is seeping along the sides and bottom of the spillway stone. The water level in the spa drops to the bottom of the spillway stone, then stops dropping.


My question is, what type of material should I use to stop the water from seeping? It does not seem like the entire stone needs to be removed then re-set. Would clearly silicone be sufficient?

Pictures are attached and thank you in advance for any assistance.

Thanks,
Mike

Hello all. Thanks for the great forum. I’ve learned a lot from you. Hope I can get some insight into my new finding this morning.

I have a gunite pool that is 15 yrs old. I found my return jets are all discolored in black stuff. They appear as if they were burned. My pool chemistry has been great all season long. Did not have yellow/green algae at all. Using a brush does not removed it. There is no other place in the pool that has those discoloration.

Any help is greatly appreciated

Anyone use this stuff?



The Safety Data Sheet lists it at 8.25%, but even so at $3.47 $2.66 CAD it's still much cheaper than any other source of bleach even corrected for concentration. I calculated it out to be 11.3 9.5 cents per ml of actual sodium hypochlorite, vs 14 cents for the 10% stuff from pool store, which is normally the cheapest place.

I'm just not sure if there are any additives or anything else that I should be concerned about before I load up on this stuff.

EDIT - This is actually even cheaper. It's 3 for $8.50, so that brings the price down to 9.5 cents per ml of sodium hypochlorite. 32% cheaper that the pool store.

Hi. We just purchased a home with a pool that was not maintained and is currently very green. We put some type of chemicals (a trichlor and something before that) from Leslie's for the last 2 days after we took a sample there, but then my friend told me about TFP. I've read the SLAM article and have the Pool Math app. When I tested this morning, the CYA was quite low as the black dot never disappeared. The app is saying I need to add 11 lbs of dry stabilizer and 3 galloons of chlorine. Is it okay to put some dry stabilizer in a sock in a skimmer and then liquid chlorine in the pool? I've been ready that you shouldn't use both at the same time, so I'm not sure how we would raise both levels. How much dry stabilizer would you add at a time since I imagine it will take quite a while to get 12 lbs added. Thank you!

Hello, I'm new to the pool maintenance game. Have a large pool ~ 24,000 gallons (I think) looking to take over maintaining to save some $$ and enjoy maintaining my own pool. Our dog uses the pool more than anyone else