Hello,
I have a pool about 2 years old. The pool contractor put in a Hayward Omnilogic controller and installed SR Smith TREO color pool lights. I have two issues.

1.) When I select a fixed color or light show from the Hayward Omnilogic app, I get something totally different than what I selected.
2.) One of the lights does not sync with the rest of the lights. I have six lights. Five will turn the same color (though not the one I selected) and the other light will be a totally different color.

I've done a bit of calling around and I've learned that these lights are not compatible with the Hayward Omnilogic controller. Hayward tells me that if I want to communicate with the lights via the Hayward app, I need to buy their Colorlogic bulbs. I don't want to have to invest a ton of money in new lights and fixtures. SR Smith tells me there is a workaround if you go into the Hayward controller and change the default from "color lights" to "white lights". After the lights are changed to "white lights" there is a series of steps that requiring rapidly toggling the lights on and off. My issue is I cannot find any setting in the Omnilogic controller that refers to "white lights". I only see "color lights". Maybe there's something else in "service mode"? The other issue is that there is no quick way that I can see to power down the lights. Every time I power them down, it takes 30 seconds or so.

SR Smith also said issue #2 might be a bad LED and that I can file a warranty claim and they will send me a new LED lamp.

So my question is for issue #1 right now. Does anyone know where I can set the Omnilogic controller to "white lights" and is there another way to power the lights on and off. I am attaching the document from SR Smith that addresses this workaround to use SR Smith lights with Hayward. Are there are solutions to resolve issue #1 that I am not thinking of? For example, is there a way to purchase a separate LED controller so and use a different app to select colors for the SR Smith lights that are currently installed?

Thanks,

Mike

So I think I have figured out where I went wrong but I want to make sure I fix it correctly. I have had this pool for 3 years and it has always been so easy. I have always used tablets in a float to chlorinate without issue, well I must have had some without stabilizer previously so I didn’t realize the issue they can cause. This summer (on a new bucket of chlorox xtra blue, never used this brand before) all year I have battled high FC and CYA. Today I rolled back my solar cover to find a green pool. I was dumbfounded as to how I could have high chlorine and algae. I’m assuming the CYA (been between 100-120 all summer) is tying up my chlorine. I took out the tablets added a gallon of bleach (it’s all I had), backwashed, brushed it (came off super easy), and am running the filter all night. Will drain some water tomorrow and refill to lower CYA, but how much to drain? And then what do I do from there to get things cleared up?

I am having an algae bloom in my 18000 gallons inground pool. So far I have used 12 pounds of cal hypo. 5 pounds of acid and 4 gallons of liquid chlorine. But I can't treat it. I cleaned my cartridge filter twice and partially drained and refilled the pool. Today I added some clarifier in the hope that some of it clears.

Issues I know off. CYA was high before I partially drain. Now it is within acceptable ranges. PH is high and it has been like that since I had the pool and I can't find a way to control it. I am out of options and started to get really frustrated. I have been fighting it for a week now

My hot tub has been leaking (repairs and other efforts have been unsuccessful), and I think it's on its last legs. I'm thinking of moving it farther away from the house until it eventually dies.

Is this surface good enough for the tub's last days, do you think? The tub is a smallish 2 or 3 person unit.

I don't want to go through a major project to build the perfect pad, as the tub might not last long. But I also don't want to destroy the tub immediately with a bad surface. This is basically crushed granite (I think) with some larger rocks. It's been in place for over 10 years.

If the tub can sit here for another year or three, I'll be happy.

*Obviously, I won't blame you for my laziness if you say it might work just fine. I'm just wondering if it's almost certainly doomed to fail.*

Thank you.

My Hayward Aqualogic P8 main board has gone out. When I try to use it, it is turning the filter pump on and off every 2-3 mins and I get an "communications error 2". I ordered and received the Main board part (GLX-PCB-MAIN) and am waiting for my pool tech to install it. The filter has been off for the last 4 days and I want to avoid having to spend gobs of money on chemicals to fix the water (should I have to wait 4-7 days until I can get an appt with him).

Is there a way to by pass the Hayward system and manually turn on my VS pump and run the filter? Should I unplug the system connect at the VS pump? Help please!

Thanks in advance!

We have had an above ground pool for almost 25 years and are thinking about changing it up. The pool area is surrounded by trees, some hanging over the pool, so lots of leaves falling into the pool begins in august when trees get stressed (texas). I am curious if infinity pools have ever been designed with a diagonal wire mesh that the water overflows on, which would allow the water to go through but the leaves would be prevented from entering the overflow trough and hopefully, eventually going to ground beyond the trough? Maybe this wouldnt look so nice but am wondering if it would work to best eliminate floating leaves from a pool?

Are there any pool designs that are best for handling large volumes of leaves? I realize trimming the trees and surrounding the trees/pool with netting is an option. Thanks for your insight

Noticed water shooting out of this connection at about a hairs width. It's maybe a little hard to see it in the picture.
It seems like it happens when I set returns to spa jets and psi goes up by about 5 (10->15psi.)
When I change valves to bring pressure back down leak seems to stop.
What should I do? Is it safe to have system running with lowered psi in the meantime?

I think my pool is in very good shape chemically speaking. A friend came over today and sat by the pool and commented that my pool doesn’t smell like chlorine. My wife opined that it doesn’t because it’s a salt water pool. I explained the salt to chlorine process but I really couldn’t explain why (technically) my pool doesn’t smell of chlorine. I run pretty hot - usually over 8ppm. My CYA is around 60. I figured the stabilizer was why but wanted to check here so I would understand better. What causes a pool to smell of chlorine?

Made a rookie mistake this last weekend, and thought I'd share in case it helps someone in the future. My pool builder "estimated" the gallons of my pool at ~ 22,000. I never bothered to verify in detail, but I read how to do a quick and dirty estimate. The pool is irregular shaped, but at it's longest and widest, it is 41' x 17'. The depth varies from 4' in places to 6' in places. Since there are some curves that go in from the widest places and also on the corners, I used 40 x 15 x 5 x 7.5 (length x width x avg depth x 7.5) to come up with ~ 22,500. Since that was close to the pool builder's estimate...I decided it had to be good. Had to be good....right?

Well...I've waited the 30 days for the new plaster to cure...and time comes last weekend to put in the salt. I'm super excited about this, because I've already spent way too much in chlorine. The plaster guy's advice was to NOT put it all in at once...because "it's a lot easier to put more in than to take it out". I chuckled..and agreed.

So I did the math. I checked it twice. I'm gonna find out who's naughty...er...wait. Sorry. Got distracted there. I figured somewhere around 15 or 16 bags was going to be the right amount. Cuz I'm great at math. Easy peasy. So I put in 13 of my 16 bags, assuming I would check it after a day and then add the rest. To my surprise...was reading more than 3,600 ppm. What? Either I had somehow purchased "super potent" salt....or my math had gone wrong somewhere. After some reflection...I decided that maybe I'm not as great at math as I thought.

You see...the pool volume turned out to be no where close to 22,000 gallons. I have this gigantic tanning ledge that is included in the 41' x 17' shape, and it is only 9 inches deep. About 10' x 15' feet of my pool is only 9 inches deep. Plus...I've got two different sets of in-pool plaster stairs, and some bar seats in the pool. In short...I really screwed the pooch by assuming the pool builder's estimate was good and also messed up my initial quick verification of his number. I decided to get a little more accurate. I setup an Excel sheet and made all the rows and columns the same height/width, so that they were squares. Basically made a grid on the spreadsheet, and then I drew the pool. I dropped in water depths in each cell, which let me get more precision for the tanning ledge area, the depth gradation, and the stairs, etc. Then summed all the cells, multiplied by 7.5, and I get my number. Even threw some conditional formatting on it as a quick check for depth variations. Looks like this....



The bottom line....is that my approximate 22,000 gallon pool, was really only about 16,500. Yikes. So yes...I put in too much salt. I spent the next day filling the pool up past the overflow so that it was shedding water. Took me about 13 hours to knock it back down to 3,000 ppm, which is where I want to start my SWG journey. Will adjust up or down based on SWG production, but I figured that would be a good place to start. This should make my acid additions a little more accurate, as I've been using 22,000 as my pool volume. Yikes again.

Anyway...hope that helps someone. Now I get to start tinkering with chlorine production. Should be a fun week!

Good Evening!! I am at my whits end right now and I don't know where to turn. We got a new Jandy heater installed 2 months ago after our original heater took a Crud. Anyway we have only had our pool for 2 years so you can only imagine my frustration.

Here is the issue... when the heater turns on you hear it ignite then it shuts off. My pool guy replaced the ignator rod but then the Jandy tech said we didn't have enough gas pressure going to the heater which makes zero sense since it worked fine for the last 2 years. Anyway we called the gas company and they installed a 2lb gas meter and we had a plumber install a regulator as directed by the Jandy Tech and we still have the same issue. Now of course Jandy is saying there is a problem with the gas line but the gas company took their measurement called the water colum and it was fine. I don't know who to be angry with at this point.

Have any of you had this issue where the heater starts then stops? Eveything was working fine gas wise for over 2 years so how can this have been a problem all along? I am lost.

Hello

I noticed the whisperflow communication cable

356324Z is 25ft long… the pump and the panel are about 50 ft away..is it possible to buy two cables and configure/attach wire them together so it can reach that far?​

has it been done?

thanks

Usually I can find YouTube videos for stuff like this, but I'm coming up empty. I've attached a picture, as you can see this bubbler is broken and collecting a bunch of crud and algae. Awhile back I noticed water was running out of the conduit box, and it turned out there must be a crack in the housing for the light. I've since turned off the water to it, but while I wait to actually fix the thing, I'd like to take the cover off so I can clean it.

I've tried with both a Phillips head and Allen but cant seem to remove whatever is holding it. Is it able to come off easily?

I’m trying to figure out if I have a faulty salt cell or if it’s the mother board- Hayward SwimPure Plus. Two weeks ago the temperature reading started climbing and the salt reading wasn’t moving at all- both incorrect. But it wasn’t a big deal because I have another way to test the salt. Last week it started reading HOT and stopped generating chlorine. Customer service for the salt cell told me to cut the blue and red wires inside the salt cell and the HOT will come off and start producing. The temperature reading went to 77 and the salt reading went to 2700- both were incorrect but I didn’t care as long as it was producing. I got the pool completely balanced and tried to recalibrate the mother board. The salt reading went to 0 and it is still not producing chlorine. The voltage is 31.4. The filter is a Hayward vari-flo XL valve and motor is 1 hp. Pool is IG and 16,000. Do you think it’s an issue with the salt cell or the mother board? Thank you!

I bought a house with a 1 year old sand filter. It recently started leaking from the upper bulkhead… it turns out there’s no support (no slab, no blocks). It’s sitting on the dirt and the whole unit is leaning/settling!
Anyway, I’ll have to empty the filter, place some sort of support, fix the connections, and put it back together.
Questions:
- Can I reuse the sand? Or do I need to replace it?
- Do I need to have someone pour a slab, or will placing it on pavers be enough?

Sooooo. After a summer of (what we thought was) a capacitor issue, the electrician thinks it might be a pump issue. The capacitor looks fine visibly (we’ve had one ‘blow’ before and it’s obvious). I’m beginning to search/research new pumps. We have a Hayward SS right now, and know I’ll be going with a VS next. But where to even start? Reputable sellers? Good brands? Pumps without a capacitor? Is that even a thing? How do I know a new pump will fit? Modifications are scary I hate having my guard up, but I really don’t trust the guidance of the local pool professionals we have locally.

I also know we are going to build a little shade roof over our pump, as it is in full sun ALL DAY.

Sigh. The giant water hole money pit continues

I have what I believe is an air leak in my main drain. You can see why I think it is main drain here:


I have done a number of things, including shaving cream test, ran water over valves, lubed most valves/O-Rings, ran water hose down main drain line, and an additional soap sud test for good measure. Also stopped/started pump two dozen times looking for water squirting out of joints or valves. Can't find any leaks.

Sometimes turning on my deck jets, which pull with an additional pump from main, it helps, but not consistently.

Happy to post any additional photos or videos if it will help diagnose, but greatly appreciate any thoughts as I'm at a loss at this point.

Additional video here: Second Video.MOV

We recently moved and are having a new pool put in. The plumbing was completed last Tuesday and held 20 psi for 4 days. Gunite was shot Friday and pressure was still 20 psi at the end of the day. We went out of town and returned today and the pressure dropped 4 psi. I think this is normal, the temperature last week was 100 all week, but it rained everyday we were gon and te.ps were low 90's. Any input would be helpful.

Aloha everyone! We have red (red, not brick or rust) stains in places around the waterline of our pool. See picture--you willl have to zoom in to see them.
Any ideas on how to get rid of them? I SLAMd the pool to clear up any pink bacteria/algae that might have caused it, but the stains will not come out. Tried vinegar, baking soda, bleach so far. Nothing touches it.
Thanks, Gary

I have had pools my entire life. I did BYOP on my last pool, it was a fiberglass pool and has been fairly low maintenance and we have enjoyed it.
I am getting close to retiring and have two younger kids and would like to upgrade our pool to a "swimming hole". There are a couple of pool contractors in our area that do natural landscapes of rock including the bottoms of the pool and that is the look we want. The plan would be to pull our existing fiberglass pool out( I have a buddy I am going to give it to) and have the new pool construction take place once the older pool is out.
Two questions- both very broad topics.
Anyone ever pulled a fiberglass pool out? I am guessing I will need to brace it as the water is taken out.
Any thoughts on the natural rock look and issues with the plaster rock work on the bottom? Both contractors offer a shallow beach entry and I know that helps with water heating and is nice to enter, but is it an algae breeding ground?
We have always wanted the natural swimming hole look and can now finally afford it.

Hello
First time pool owner. I recently had a new inground pool installed. I’m trying to figure out the capacity of the pool. It is a 20x34 mountain pond style. The shallow end is 40” and the deep end 6’ deep. There is a built in bench seat and a sundeck which is located in the shallow end. I did the calculator i found online but I’m not sure how accurate it is based on the seat and sundeck. Any help would be great.

What has been used here on the side of this spa? Is that stamped concrete? or stones? I have stamped concrete on my pool deck (picture below) and I would like to find some good grey matching stones/tiles for the side of the spa.

The circuit breaker for my salt cell (IC-40) keeps tripping. This just started happening, pool is about 6 years old. Is this a sign the salt cell is going out or just a bad breaker.

Stopped by my house today and saw this in the pump basket. Is this a gasket from a union? I don't see any leaks. It would have to be from the suction connection, right?

I am puzzled by something. I just tested my CYA and it is 100! I don’t add anything that would account for this. My water is lower than I would like- crazy hot here. I’m getting ready to fill. I know CYA for not evaporate. Would less water though, cause CYA PPM to increase? I’m trying to decide if I need to fill in Rita, CYA or drain water. Last time I tested my CYA it was not a super sunny day and I did end up adding some stabilizer and it seem to have needed it at the time. I’m puzzled.

I use ma to lower my TA and get pH in check and have done so relatively well in the past. But I just purged and refilled the spa, lowered TA and have a problem. I thought something was wrong with my test kit because TA was getting really low but pH just was not cooperating. According to a store test TA is 44 and pH is 8.1. These numbers defy my understanding of TA/Ph balancing and past experience. Should I dump the water and try again? Why is TA not pulling down the pH?

What is needed to close the pool? Should I buy a kit from Inyo pools?

I am looking for some help. I am having issues with some error codes and just had my board replaced after a lightning strike. It’s showing cell temp sensor short circuit and chlorinator off sensor fault. Any ideas If it could be a bad salt cell?

So my 220v 1.5 HP single speed pump motor burned up yesterday. I been thinking about VS and SWG for a while now, so i figure now is the time. I've renovated/replumbed/rewired 10+ bathrooms and 5+ kitchens in my time, so i'm not scared of plumbing or electrical but i have 0 experience working on pools. Was initially looking for contractor quotes on pentair, because of no DIY warranty, but they seem really high.

i stumbled upon Circupool then read some positive reviews here. On their site theres a package deal for both SWG RJ plus and Smartflo pump for nearly the same as pentair/hayward installed by a pool company with a waranty. Does this seem like a good route ? Any tips on sizing ? was thinking the 1.5 VS pump and RJ45+ Can you go too big on SWG ?

Hi All

Looking for any advice and help on how to DIY my own pool. Building new home which will not be ready until March 2024. Thought I would start the process of looking at equipment and any advice or help on who to use for drawings and permits subs?

In-ground pool, in-ground spa. Same equipment, but the plumbing in and out for both are separate, so I can either run the pool or run the spa. I have it set to run 24/7 for the pool with a 30 minute cycle for the hot tub each evening.
Symptom: Water level in both spa and hot tub drops quicker than expected. Filling up to the top of the skimmer, the water drops down to midway in 2-3 days. It will slowly drop down to the bottom of the skimmer over the next 7-10 days. Additionally, salt, calcium, and CYA all drop over the season (salt was 3100 at start of July, at end of August it was down to 2400. CYA was up to 75, now it's reading at 40). Very little swimming this year, very very little water lost due to displacement (splashing)

Background: Last year I was adding water for the skimmers at least once a week for what I assumed was evaporation. This year, I got a solar cover for the pool. Due to the size of the pool, the cover doesn't cover the shallow end stairs, which is about 4'x3'. I assumed this would mostly fix the evaporation issues. At the start of the season, I also did the bucket test for leaks, and it seemed to evaporate at the same speed as the pool, so I thought I'd be in the clear this year and not have to constantly add water.

Thoughts so far:
There is no visible leaks/water in the pool equipment. Additionally all above-ground plumbing/equipment were replaced in 2021. So no leaks above ground.
I shut off my schedule for the spa and left it for 4 days, so it had no water moving in or out. The water level in the spa dropped several inches, the same amount as the pool (which has the solar cover on it).
So my thought was:
1. if the leak was in the spa/spa lines, I would see the water level drop there the pool would stay where it was.
2. If the leak was in the pool/pool lines, I would see the water level drop in the pool, but not the spa
3. If this was just evaporation, my chemicals wouldn't be dropping like they are
4. Also, while the solar cover has dramatically lowered the amount of water I have to add each week (once every 10 days instead of every 3 days), I'm still losing a lot of water that doesn't seem to be possible due to just evaporation.

What to try next:
1. Either there is no leak and I should ignore this, but if so...where are my chemicals going,
2. Or there happens to be a leak in both the spa and pool lines, so they both are leaking even when the pump isn't running,
3. Or I'm missing something...which is where you guys come in. What else can I try or test to narrow down what's going on and where?